Best restaurants in Deal: Rosie Birkett shares where a local eats in this Kent coastal town
Discover the best places to eat and drink in this Kentish coastal town, from seaside picnics to Japanese small plates
This quirky Kentish coastal town just up the way from Dover may be small, but it’s certainly mighty when it comes to the food on offer for locals and visitors alike. Once a renowned spot for smugglers, Deal has been something of a ‘best kept secret’ for those in the know, but these days its appeal - think stunning Georgian conservation area, colourful fishing boats, charming shingle beach and thriving independent high street - is well and truly on the radar for food lovers. Thanks to the ingenuity and creativity of its independent business owners, there is something to suit every budget, palate and occasion - from fresh oysters and exceptional bistro fare, to elegantly composed Japanese small plates or chilli-buzzed Caribbean barbecue. Here, long-time olive contributor and proud local food writer Rosie Birkett shares her run down of the most exciting places to indulge your tastebuds… For more UK travel guides, check out our picks of the best restaurants in Broadstairs, best restaurants in the Cotswolds, best restaurants in Cornwall and the best restaurants in Margate. Best places to eat and drink in Deal Updown Farmhouse – the restaurant with rooms Set in 7 acres of lovely grounds, Updown Farmhouse is just under a 15 minute drive inland (chauffeur driven transfers can be arranged here) from Deal in the verdant countryside that adjoins the town. Updown was converted from a private holiday residence into a restaurant with rooms a few years ago by design-savvy, dynamic hospitality duo Ruth Leigh and chef Oli Brown who also regularly welcome a roster of visiting guest chefs including the likes of Henry Harris and Tim Siadatan. The gloriously restored red brick farmhouse dates back to the 17th century, and offers four smartly-appointed double rooms upstairs in the main house, a library and lounge downstairs, as well as further accommodation in the Gardener’s Cottage and sumptuously designed, art-filled Gatehouse. The restaurant itself is set in a beautiful, vine draped heated conservatory which spills out under the wondrous, wistaria-drenched pergola in summer. Running front of house is Leigh, who exudes an ease and charm that speaks to her family’s hospitality background (she’s the daughter of influential British chef Rowley Leigh), while Brown, who cooked with Leigh at Le Cafe Anglais before being head chef at Duck Duck Goose in Brixton, cooks seasonally-shifting menus of Italian-accented dishes that fly the flag for Kent produce. Working with local suppliers including Jenkins and Son and The Black Pig, he can be seen grilling over coals - think aged rib of beef to share with morels and wild garlic, or plating up ensembles like seabass crudo with chilli, Amalfi lemon and marjoram. updownfarmhouse.com Pop Up Cafe – for coffee, viennoiserie and fabulous vegetarian cooking Despite what the name suggests, this once temporary cafe on Deal’s bustling high street is a firm and favourite fixture, adored by locals and visitors alike who clamour for its precision made coffee (from nearby Margate’s exceptional local roastery Curve) and artisan pastries and bakes. Set up by visionary owner Hetty Pound over ten years ago, initially as a makeshift caff housed in a derelict shop, over the years it’s expanded and morphed into the community stalwart and thoroughly modern cafe it is today. Together with partner Ben Royston-Bishop: a dab hand at brewing perfect coffees and baking the cafe’s excellent sourdough, Pound has created a hub where you can pick up a stunning sourdough croissant to eat on the go, or sit in to enjoy the delicious, wholesome and craveable vegetarian menu. We’re huge fans of the salad plate, with its rainbow of crunchy, zingy salads and homemade ferments, and also love its oozing cheese toasties made on signature sourdough - the cheese and kimchi is unmissable. popupcafe.co.uk Jenkins and Sons – for seafood street food and fresh fish Fourth generation fish monger Darren Jenkins has recently relocated his family’s legendary fish shop and poulterers to a larger premises where, as well as picking up fantastic quality, day boat caught fish and seafood, you can now also sit in for a freshly cooked seafood lunch and with a chilled glass of wine, or take it away to eat on the beach. Browse the display window for shimmering local mackerel, sea trout and locally-caught shrimps. Darren is passionate about sourcing the very best, most seasonal and sustainable sea bounty he can – hence the fact he counts a multitude of acclaimed nearby restaurants (like Margate’s Sargasso and Updown Farmhouse) amongst his most loyal customers. In-house chef Pete Keyes leads the energetic kitchen at lunchtime, turning out hot fishy delights such as fat scallops cooked in their shell with cherry tomatoes and handmade pesto, juicy prawn skewers and fish tacos. We’re massive fans of the seabass brioche, which, served with French fries and a wedge of lemon, makes a beautiful alternative to a classic fish and chip lunch. There’s also a freezer full of Keye’s carefully made creations, so you can stock up on homemade fish pie, chowder and lobster mac and cheese to heat up at home, too. jenkinsandsonfishandgame.co.uk/street-food-bar/ Hut 55 – for seaside picnics and coffee The idea of a coffee and cake shack in a beach hut is a superbly simple one, but it’s anything but straightforward to pull off brilliantly, and it’s testament to the talents of founder, former journalist Kate Foreman and her small team, that they manage to do so on a daily basis (weather dependant). Perched in the wild fennel by Walmer’s picturesque promenade - a short stroll from Deal town centre - you’ll find carefully made coffees and lovingly crafted sweet and savoury treats to delight old and young. We’re talking cheerfully chewy cinnamon, oat and raisin cookies, and doorstep wedges of iced carrot cake vying for attention alongside ‘offensively large Scotch eggs’ and rather more elegant courgette and ricotta galettes. ‘The Hut’ is wonderfully family friendly, but it’s also a great spot for a moment of solo self care, boasting endless sea views, and you can spot France on a clear day from your pew on one of its comfy red and white striped deckchairs. There are vintage books for children to browse, as well as an old wooden boat for them to clamber on, and bespoke beach picnics can be ordered ahead (think nostalgic British classics like massive sausage rolls, filled baps and shortbread with clotted cream and strawberries), as well as organised swims, beach yoga sessions and bike hire for those who want to adventure on two wheels. Foreman recently launched her ‘Sunday Sundowners’ summer evening sessions with a gorgeous menu of fresh seafood and fishy nibbles on offer along with a cleverly matched list of organic wines by the bottle. These evenings are the stuff British seaside dreams are made of - what could be more perfect than a chilled glass of Simpson’s British sparkling wine alongside some freshly shucked oysters? hut55.co.uk The Blue Pelican – for Japanese small plates This Japanese small plates restaurant from the visionary couple behind Deal’s lauded food-led boutique hotel The Rose occupies a Georgian townhouse overlooking the sea, and its jewel box, chequerboard-floored dining room is one of the best places to eat in Deal. Chef Luke Green, who manned the stove at The Rose before opening this, cooked in Japan for years and his unique, utterly mesmerising menu nods to Japanese izakaya and robata traditions: think umami-rich broths crowned by rustling tempura mushrooms, juicy pork katsu with bitter leaves and sesame dressing, or seared squid with Tokyo turnips and pomelo. thebluepelican.co.uk The Black Pig – the beachside butcher Nestled down a narrow lane just off the Deal’s High Street, Lizzy Douglas’ charming, award-winning butcher shop is flanked by hollyhocks in the height of summer, making it perhaps the prettiest butcher you’ll ever see. Inside, Lizzy has crafted a true haven for meat enthusiasts, with a focus on flavour and provenance. Alongside her small, skilful team — affectionately known as the "beefcakes" — Lizzy expertly handles the entire process, from breaking down whole sides of lamb, beef, and pork to curing bacon and creating an array of sausages and marinated meats, often featuring foraged and hyper-local ingredients like wild garlic and beach fennel to emphasise their connection to the local landscape. In that same vein, all the meat comes from small, local free-range farms that uphold traditional methods, with animals processed at the last remaining nearby abattoir. This careful approach not only enhances the meat’s deliciousness, but supports the local farming community and rural economy, something Lizzy is passionate about and a philosophy which has earned her prestigious accolades, including a YBF award and the BBC Radio Four Food and Farming Award. Lizzy is open, friendly and generous with her knowledge, often offering advice on interesting cuts and how to cook them, as well as running butchery courses that explore the craft in greater detail. theblackpigbutchers.com The Zetland – the pub on the beach A scenic walk or cycle from Deal is The Zetland Arms Pub in Kingsdown, a legendary and lively local boozer which was recently sensitively revamped by the owners of The Rose. With stunning sea views taking in colourful beach huts and the white cliffs of nearby St Margarets Bay, this coastal gem is the stuff of local legend: it’s been serving pints since 1863. More recent is the improved food menu which features hearty, seasonally-inflected delights such as fried whitebait with wild garlic mayo and mussels with Kentish cider, chilli and shallots, sitting aside pub grub classics like fish and chips and sirloin steak. zetlandarms.co.uk Cherubs – the kitchen above a pub Located just opposite Deal’s pier, The Bohemian pub has long been a spot for local revelry, including drag shows and live music, but more recently it’s become the site of some of the town’s best cooking, thanks to the talents of young chef Jakob Grant. Grant cut his teeth at nearby Sargasso in Margate and Henry Harris’ Bouchon Racine in London, and brings that stellar experience to the pub’s makeshift kitchen upstairs in his first solo venture, calling to mind The French House in Soho with its wooden floorboards and candlelit tables. Grant, who, impressively, cooks solo with only the help of his kitchen porter, is constantly inspired by what he calls the “fantastic local produce” at his fingertips, using fruit and vegetables from local green grocer Blackberry and Lavender (also worth checking out), The Black Pig and Jenkins and Sons, and he’s not averse to a little bit of foraging either to add some hyper local details to dishes. Sharing salivation inducing teasers of his seasonal creations on Instagram, Grant channels European flavours in dishes such as seared veal chop dressed with sage, brown butter and fresh, locally foraged summer truffle, or fig leaf infused panna cotta with macerated Kent cherries. We loved the grilled sardines with mojo verde and perfectly grilled lamb leg, tzatziki and chips. Due to its small size and one-man kitchen, booking is essential, so make sure you bag a table in advance. Cherubs takes bookings for dinner on Thursday and Friday, and lunch and dinner on Saturday. It will be opening up reservations for lunch on Fridays and Wednesday evenings from September. cherubs.resos.com/booking Deal Pier Kitchen – the lunch spot with a view Once home to a lacklustre fisherman’s cafe, the architecturally award-winning space at the bottom of Deal’s striking brutalist pier is now home to Deal Pier Kitchen, a locally-operated cafe and lunch spot that boasts unparalleled views of the sea and pretty Georgian town. Whether you fancy a slice of cake or Swedish cinnamon bun (expertly made by talented local bakers Kate Ampomah aka Eton Mess and Malin Hamilton aka Bygga Bo respectively) and cup of coffee, or a lobster and crayfish roll with skinny fries and a glass of Kentish fizz, you’ll find a warm welcome at this baby friendly, dog friendly spot. Sit by the massive windows and eat with the sea surrounding you - you might even spot a seal or two. Queues are sometimes out the door for this place, but there’s plenty to look at while you wait, including watching local fishing enthusiasts reeling in mackerel or dogfish. On Friday and Saturday nights the space transforms into a candlelit restaurant with a dinner menu championing lobster and locally-sourced steak in their steak and lobster nights, and they also take bookings for bottomless brunches for groups. dealpierkitchen.com Soul Chef – the Jamaican beach barbecue Roving British Jamaican chef Dexter Thomas has recently taken up the reins in the kitchen at seafront pub The Port Arms, and cooks smoky, chilli-humming 24-hour marinated meat and fish in his jerk drum, serving it with rice and peas and homemade Soul Chef salsa. His flavour-filled menu draws heavily on his Jamaican heritage, resulting in a modern interpretation of many traditional flavours and dishes. Think fried prawns with mango and pineapple jam, or boneless, coconut crumbed fried chicken with sticky hot sauce alongside jerk pork with tropical salsa. For summer he and wife Gosia, who he runs Soul Chef alongside, have created an oyster and wing shack in the pub garden, barbecuing oysters from Jenkins and Son alongside scotch bonnet chicken wings. Brilliantly, Soul Chef also takes orders for take away, so you can enjoy his smoky, sticky creations on the beach too. soulchefkitchenyard.co.uk Arno and Co – for a delightful deli Over the years Deal has cast its spell on many a Londoner who has dipped their toe in its fresh, salty waters only to be drawn down here permanently, and such is the case for Arno Karsten, founder of Deal’s most delightful deli. We first met Arno when he was working front of house at The Rose, commuting between Deal and London, where he’d spent decades working in iconic restaurants like Moro, Smiths of Smithfield and latterly Polpo. After falling in love with the town, he put down roots and opened his own place and Arno and Co was born, purveying culinary delights to cook at home, eat on the beach or stick in your larder for later. Karsten’s background in hospitality is evident in his easy charisma and warmth, and also in his eye for design and attention to detail. The ‘and Co’ references the fact that Arno is passionate about the suppliers he uses to stock his shop, which is packed to the rafters with well-sourced goodies, from incredible preserves, artisan hot sauces and cold pressed extra virgin olive oil, to organic wines, gourmet crisps and artisan pasta. The fridges are full of tubs of grab and go goodies cooked up by in house chef Tim Lawton who works in the shop’s kitchen, rustling up freshly made versions of everything from taramasalata to tiramisu - all perfect for a beach picnic, and they do incredible focaccia sandwiches too. The freezer is a treasure trove of meals, with South East Asian curries from the Rachel O Sullivan aka Rakooko and comfort food via Ruby’s Kitchen. Be warned though - so tempting is the selection that you’ll inevitably end up leaving with bagfuls of tasty treats you didn’t know you needed, but then can’t live without. instagram.com/arno_and_co The Frog and Scot – for small plates and fine wines This Deal institution, owned by eponymous husband and wife duo Benoit Dezecot and partner Sarah Ross (who also run Le Pinardier wine bar and shop a few doors down), draws inspiration from the wine-led bistros of Paris, and offers small plates and cocktails as well as their well-selected list of organic and natural wines. Sit at the bar and have the bar person shake you a cocktail while you munch on smoked Marcona almonds, or bag a bistro table and settle in for a selection of small plates. We loved the homemade focaccia and whipped cod’s roe, and also the bayonne ham croquettes with green romesco and basil. Burger Sundays run through the summer, offering a great value menu of gourmet burgers, perfect for enjoying with a bottle of the chilled Beaujolais. Whether you’re looking for a quick bite, or a full on feasting session, the menu has something to please everyone, and there’s also a heated terrace area out the front of the restaurant which is brilliant for people watching. frogandscot.co.uk Where to stay in Deal The Rose What sets The Rose apart is the designers’ (Nicola Harding of Harding and Read and stylist Michelle Kelly) joyful use of colour, and their pleasing disregard for the muted tasteful tones that have become so popular in recent years. Downstairs is a bar, restaurant and lounge full of bright vintage furniture, while upstairs are eight bedrooms, each painted in a unique bold hue, inspired by the bright beach balls and deckchairs of the local seaside, just a few steps away. None of the rooms are huge so tea, coffee and biscuits sit outside in the hallway for guests to help themselves when the mood strikes. Each is appealing in a distinct way but all have superbly comfortable beds and well-designed bathrooms. Breakfast is particularly impressive at The Rose. There’s a relaxed vibe in the morning, with magazine and papers piled high and the menu chalked on a blackboard. Vegetarians can fill up on roast Swiss brown mushrooms, oregano, goats cheese and toast, while the Nordically inclined can opt for the Scandi breakfast plate – smoked salmon with avocado, egg, dill, whipped cream cheese and toast. Doubles from £196, check availability at booking.com More UK restaurant guides Best restaurants in Penzance Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in Broadstairs Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Manchester Best restaurants in the Lake District
Rosie Birkett shares her favourite Kent food and drink spots
Discover where to eat in Kent, from fresh seafood and noteworthy Italian in Margate to legendary Indian food in Canterbury
Looking for the best places to eat in Kent? Local resident and expert Rosie Birkett has shared her must-visit recommendations, from small plates in Margate to Michelin-starred restaurants. For more exciting restaurants and weekend ideas for food lovers, check out our best UK city breaks, best pubs with rooms and foodie day trips from London by train. Also discover more of the best restaurants in Cornwall, best restaurants in Bristol and best restaurants in Cambridge. Best restaurants in Kent The Pig at Bridge Place, Bridge In verdant countryside just outside of the village of Bridge (under one hour from London) is The Pig group’s Kentish outpost: a historic, stately red brick house with a debaucherous past as a rock venue that hosted bands including Led Zeppelin and the Kinks. Its colourful history plays into its present day charm – a quirky, labyrinthine hotel with plushly decorated bedrooms, beautifully restored period features and quirky nooks. An impressive kitchen garden forms the backbone of the restaurant’s ‘25 mile menu’, with delights including Kitchen Garden Fritters with Herb Mayo, or Tamworth Pork Collar with ‘0 Mile’ Mushrooms and Mustard Sauce, plus wood fired pizzas from the outdoor kitchen. thepighotel.com/at-bridge-place/ Sargasso, Margate Sargasso has become one of the most sought after places to nab a table in Margate’s increasingly exciting food scene, preferably outside and overlooking the harbour at sunset. With a glass of lively natural wine from the extensive list, and a plate of salt cod fritters and aioli, squint and it’s giving more Sicily than Thanet vibes. That’s down to the laser-focused sourcing of owners Ed Wilson and Josie Stead, known for their lauded restaurant Brawn in East London, where interesting, low-intervention wines and plates of impeccably-procured ingredients sing. Here chef William Gleave (previously of Bright and P Franco) executes a menu that hones in on fish and seafood, with plates like slip sole and seaweed butter and the iconic squid sandwich in brioche. sargasso.bar Fordwich Arms, Fordwich This Michelin-starred restaurant, set in a rambling old pub in Fordwich – Britain’s smallest town – ranks among the county’s most consistent and exciting culinary players. Married chef owners Daniel Smith and pastry chef Natasha, who between them have worked at The Clove Club and Chapter One, craft menus that balance comfort with creativity. Expect chicken liver parfait with local ice cider and warm doughnuts, or South Coast turbot with swede, monk’s beard and vin jaune sauce. Choose from tasting or à la carte menus (from £85), then linger on the sunny, wisteria-draped terrace overlooking the River Stour. fordwicharms.co.uk Hide and Fox, Saltwood Head to Hide and Fox in Saltwood, Hythe: Kent’s only two-Michelin starred restaurant for gastronomic tasting menus of precisely cooked, inventively crafted dishes. Chef owner Alistair Barsby has returned to his Kentish roots after many illustrious years cheffing all around, (notably at Gidleigh Park with Michael Caines), and together with sommelier wife Alice Bussi, the couple are creating something special in a charming former village shop. Pristine Kent produce defines the five and eight course tasting menus where classical flavour pairings are energised with modern twists in dishes like Longland duck with plum tart, cabbage and Szechuan pepper, and native lobster with veal sweatbreads, salted lemon and lemon verbena. hideandfox.co.uk Bottega Caruso, Margate This homely Italian restaurant and deli in Margate’s Old Town began as a stall slinging handmade pasta at The Goods Shed (see entry) and is now hailed for serving some of the most authentic Italian food in Kent – if not the UK. We first tipped it in 2017, and we stand by it as a must-visit. Run by chef Simona, from Foglianise near Naples, and her husband Harry Ryder, it’s usually fully booked, so reserve – and arrive hungry. Start at the wine bar next door before indulging in polpette di pane al sugo, spaghetti con cozze e zucchine, and other shareable plates, then stock up on mozzarella and pasta from the deli. bottegacaruso.com Angela’s, Margate Few restaurants in the UK are as focused on respecting the planet and supply chain as this small seafood restaurant with rooms on the Kent coast, sister to Dory’s, a raw bar and wine shop overlooking the beach. Working with local fishermen, producers and its own cooperative farm for fruit and veg, this place is doing its darndest to remove plastic from its business, while providing a sumptuous, seafood-focused dining experience. Upstairs you can book a beautiful room to spend the night, enjoying all the same eco-conscious design displayed in the restaurant with its recycled plastic furniture, and downstairs feast on such fishy delights as poached oysters with trout roe, and monkfish with fennel and bisque. angelasofmargate.com The Cooks Tale, Canterbury Endorsed by legendary Indian chef Cyrus Todiwala, who’s previously collaborated with its award-winning chef Dev Biswal, this restaurant close to Canterbury Cathedral offers guests a fascinating journey into the cuisine of Odisha in Eastern India. Drawing on Biswal’s heritage, the menu presents delicious modern interpretations of his home region’s staples (think fish cooked in banana leaf, delicately spiced lentil and rice dishes, a fondness for yoghurt) alongside more familiar dishes. Opting for one of his famous Odiya Thalis is a good start: I love the mackerel curry and soft shell crab. Cookery classes and immersive food trips to Odisha are another part of Biswal’s drive to share his love of his culinary heritage from this corner of Kent. thecookstale.co.uk Gilda Bakery, Bishopsbourne So named after founder Jon Warren’s love for the sensationally simple Spanish pintxo of anchovy, pickled pepper and green olive – Gilda is an excellent artisan bakery similarly dedicated to the transformation of humble ingredients into something mesmerising. Set in the countryside of Bishopsbourne, near Bridge, you can watch the bakers chatting and crafting laminated pastries and organic sourdoughs as you queue for your bread and cinnamon rolls. gildabakery.com Tallow Restaurant, Southborough Bold, comforting flavours and classical cookery with a generous grating of creativity is the MO at Tallow, a sleek, family-run restaurant in Southborough, near Tunbridge Wells. With previous experience at the much-loved Compasses Inn in Crundale, married owners Robert Taylor and Donna know hospitality, and whether you’re sitting upstairs at the intimate, 8-seat Chef’s Table watching Rob at work, or downstairs in the main dining room, Donna and her team will make you feel very well looked after. Swoon over indulgent, seasonal dishes like lobster arancini with pickled cucumber, or roast loin of venison with preserved cherries and celeriac. tallowrestaurant.co.uk The Blue Pelican, Deal This Japanese small plates restaurant from the visionary couple behind Deal’s lauded food-led boutique hotel The Rose occupies a Georgian townhouse overlooking the sea, and its jewel-box, chequerboard-floored dining room is one of the best places to eat in Deal. Chef Luke Green, who manned the stove at The Rose before opening this cooked in Japan for years, and his unique, utterly mesmerising menu nods to Japanese Izakaya and robata traditions: think umami-rich broths crowned by rustling tempura mushrooms; juicy pork katsu with bitter leaves and sesame dressing or seared squid with Tokyo turnips and pomelo. thebluepelican.co.uk The Goods Shed, Canterbury It’s impossible to visit this local food haven without leaving with an enviable haul of some of Kent’s finest local, seasonal and artisanal produce. And while this historic railway freight storage shed is more than a restaurant, with a distinctive menu drawing on the top tier produce of the farmer’s market, butchery, fish monger and cheese and charcuterie producers under its vaulted roof, this place is a favourite haunt for a delicious lunch or twinkly dinner. Imagine plates of venison scrumpets with pickled walnut; Wigmore cheese with celery, apple and lovage and roast pork shoulder with celeriac, purple sprouting broccoli and anchoïde. Also hit Wild Goose for hedgerow inspired cocktails and tasty small plates, beautifully imagined by talented local chef Lucy Varley. thegoodsshed.co.uk The Sportsman, Seasalter Having opened in 1999 and won a Michelin star for its cooking nine years later, Stephen Harris’ legendary pub on the Seasalter sea wall is renowned for retaining the spirit of a no-nonsense inn, whilst serving up gourmet tasting menus that make you weak at the knees. He and partner Emma Read conjure a very special atmosphere in the dining room, overlooking the wild, surrounding marshland, and the kitchen’s remit celebrates the Kentish terroir, Harris going as far as to use foraged seaweed and sea salt for his famous slipsole in seaweed butter. The food at the Sportsman is pure pleasure, and with a midweek tasting menu on offer for £55, you’d be hard-pressed to find a more memorable or better-value lunch option in Kent. thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk Foodie neighbourhood spotlight Deal, a once-notorious smugglers’ haven, charms with its Georgian conservation area, shingle beach and thriving food scene. Local gems include award-winning butcher The Black Pig, fourth-generation fishmonger Jenkins and Sons (for seafood and street food) and Middle Street Fish for the best fish and chips (check opening hours, bring cash). Saturday’s Market proffers splendid bakes, with Swedish Buns from Bygga Bo and artisan cakes from Eat and Mess, while historic pubs have become culinary hotspots: The Rose serves Nuno Mendes’ seasonal menus and craft cocktails, The Port Arms serves up Soul Chef’s Caribbean street food, and The Deal Hoy tempts with slow-fermented pizza and negronis. Holy Dough also turns out standout takeaway pies. For provisions, The Merchant of Relish stocks spray-free Kentish produce and more, while Arno & Co offers fancy olives and a fridge of fabulous homemade dishes. Pop Up Café is a go-to for vegetarian brunch, viennoiserie and excellent coffee, while Hut 55 keeps beachgoers happy with flat whites, prawn sandwiches and homemade bakes. Discover more with our full guide to the best restaurants in Deal. A gourmet getaway 15 minutes from Deal is magnificent Updown Farmhouse: a 17th-century red-brick restaurant with rooms, set in seven stunning acres with a tree-cocooned heated pool. Run by Ruth Leigh and chef husband Oli Brown, it offers gorgeously designed accommodation and, in the vine-draped restaurant, hyper-seasonal menus showcasing Kentish produce drawing on French and Italian techniques. Most recently, the duo have launched 'Bar Vita' on site, a glossy, marble and laquered wood-clad drinking spot inspired by Rome's most glamorous bars, serving up perfectly mixed cocktails and delicious bar snacks. updownfarmhouse.com More UK restaurant guides Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Manchester Best restaurants in Glasgow Best restaurants in the Lake District
Ginger and blueberry pancakes with gochujang-glazed bacon and maple syrup
Take sweet and savoury to a whole new height with warming ginger and juicy fresh blueberries. Top with some sticky gochujang-glazed bacon to serve
Try this recipe for ginger and blueberry pancakes with gochujang-glazed bacon and maple syrup, then try almond flour pancakes, cottage cheese pancakes and coconut flour pancakes. Next, discover more easy pancake recipes. Ginger and blueberry pancakes with gochujang-glazed bacon and maple syrup recipe
The crunchy, chilli-laced pangrattato adds an extra kick to the salty, gloriously glossy sauce made from emulsified clam juice and extra virgin olive oil
Try our linguine alle vongole recipe, then check out clams in garlic butter with parsley soda bread, garlic chilli clams on sourdough toast and our drunken clams with chorizo. Plus, discover more linguine recipes. How to make the perfect linguine alle vongole: cook's tips The crucial thing with this recipe is to get all the ingredients prepped, chopped and ready to go before you start, as it’s all going to come together really quickly Make sure you warm serving bowls or plates, too, before you start cooking Linguine alle vongole recipe
Giant couscous salad with hot smoked fish
This hearty and punchy smoked fish salad is easy and quick to pull together and can be prepped ahead, making it perfect for entertaining
Try our giant couscous salad with hot smoked fish, then check out chicken, giant couscous and harissa broth, lamb steaks with giant couscous, giant couscous with spicy fish broth and more cous cous recipes. Rosie Birkett says: "Navigating the kitchen between Christmas and the new year involves not only culinary creativity, but also the art of self-care. As the dust settles from the holiday whirlwind, it’s crucial to recognise the inevitable fatigue that accompanies being the cook in your house. Make sure you take a moment to breathe and direct everyone to the kitchen to load up on turkey sandwiches (preferably bringing you one) while you put your feet up with a nice big glass of something delicious. "I insist on at least three days without cooking after the main event, but then usually get that itch to cook and host again for friends and family in this ‘betwixtmas’ period. If you’re this way inclined too, remember the essence of these days is in togetherness, not in the perfection of every dish. "I tend to think having people round after Christmas is less about elaborate feasting and more about enjoying some fresh, nourishing dishes that perk up our jaded palates and give us a much-needed break from the decadence of holiday treats. I find myself turning to crisp winter salads bursting with citrus, gentle warmth and vibrant flavours, particularly simple, wholesome meals that require minimal effort. "This smoked fish salad is exactly that – it’s a total snip to pull together and can be prepped ahead. Giant couscous cooks quickly and brings the bulk and sustenance our stomachs have become accustomed to, while providing a vehicle for punchy flavours including sushi ginger, horseradish and the smoked fish. Crispy kale tops things off with texture and a much needed kick of vitamins. It’s both hearty and healthful." Giant couscous salad with hot smoked fish recipe
Truffled celeriac and cavolo nero lasagne
Layers of celeriac béchamel swirled with a delicious cavolo nero pesto, plus a hint of very good truffle oil to add a note of luxury to things
Try this truffled celeriac and cavolo nero lasagne, then check out more vegetarian lasagne recipes, our best celeriac recipes and more ways with cavolo nero. Rosie says: "November is a lovely time to set the table and have people over for a cosy supper. While I might feel slightly preemptively exhausted by the prospect of Christmas and all the cooking that entails looming on the horizon, the pressure is off right now and things feel much more informal, so I love to ask people over and make something simple but special that can happily feed a table of friends. Lasagne is always a good one because it’s the ultimate crowd-pleasing make-ahead, and with so many gorgeous seasonal vegetables in abundance at this time of year (and so much meat to come), a winter vegetable take on this warming pasta classic feels fitting. Celeriac is a root vegetable I come back to every winter, and I’m always looking for fun new ways to use it because it’s incredibly flavourful and super versatile. I’ve made celeriac ‘pappardelle’ before by cutting celeriac with a mandoline and blanching it to serve with ragu or brown butter and sage/hazelnuts, but recently I’ve been playing around with incorporating a very smooth purée into my béchamel in lasagne, and the resulting sauce is extra delicious. Truffled celeriac and cavolo nero lasagne recipe
Dazzle your guests with irresistible layers of vanilla-flecked custard cream, sour cherries, sherry-soaked sponge and toasted almonds – it's the perfect Christmas Day dessert
Try Rosie's sour cherry trifle with almonds, then try chocolate trifle, sherry trifle, black forest trifle, vegan trifle and raspberry trifle. Looking for a dessert sharing idea? Try our impressive but simple dessert board. Rosie Birkett says: "Every year around this time I make trifle. And then I seriously scold myself for failing to make trifle the rest of the time. ‘A mere trifle’, so the expression misleadingly goes, but, really, this dessert is anything but. Trifles are extra, and ideal for parties or gatherings. They flounce, they dazzle, they set the table alight with their jolly clouds of cream and custard, with their squishy, booze-soaked layers of sponge. I’ve never been a fan of jelly in trifles so you’re not going to find any of that here – but what I do bring you with this recipe is a sublime confluence of custard and cream, whipped together into the lightest, floofiest, most ethereal of toppings for these layers of sour cherry-laden, sherry-soaked sponge. Toasted almonds crown off proceedings, bringing a nutty crunch as a final, irresistible flourish. Don’t be daunted by the fact we’re making a homemade custard here, it’s so easy to do and is absolutely worth it for the silken, vanilla-flecked results." Sour cherry trifle with almonds recipe
Make a centrepiece squash tart with walnut pastry, silky whipped feta and warming spices, perfect for entertaining this autumn
Try Rosie's butternut squash tart, then check out our best savoury tarts and more ways with butternut squash. Recipe author Rosie Birkett says: Autumn is a time when my kitchen comes alive once more in earnest and I fall back in love with those slow, careful kitchen crafts like tart making. Seasonal produce at this time of year lends itself to the gentle rhythm of kitchen pottering and asks you to work a little harder than the ripe, showy goods of high summer, but rewards you richly for your efforts. Among the stars of this season are gourds and squashes, whose sweet, nutty flavours are a key part of my autumnal cooking repertoire. The allure of squashes lies in their versatility. From comforting soups that hug the soul on chilly evenings to hearty stews that beg to be shared with loved ones around a candlelit table, these humble gourds inspire creativity and nourish in equal measure. And they also look rather nice as table decorations until you decide their time has come. While there are so many gorgeous varieties out there at this time of year – and I’m always on the lookout for Crown Prince, Red Kuri and Kabocha – I find myself drawn to the butternut squash, with its curved neck and smooth, cream skin. It’s easy to come by in most food shops at this time of year and gives real bang for your buck in flavour terms. This tart is a showcase for my favourite thing to do with butternut, which is to roast it with some aromatic spices – I favour cumin for its warmth and earthiness, and coriander seed for the zing, plus a little pul biber for sweet, smoky heat. Roasting enhances the squash’s natural sweetness and deepens its flavours. My tart props the roasted squash up on a fluffy, creamy, moussy layer of whipped feta, under which pickled red onion cuts through the richness of the nutty, super-crumbly walnut pastry. It’s all crowned with crispy fried sage leaves and a drizzle of their wonderfully aromatic oil. It’s a dish that invites us to slow down and connect with the seasons, and I really hope you’re going to love it as much as I do. Butternut squash tart recipe
As autumn approaches, transform your harvest of plums into a glorious preserve
Try this plum and fig compote, then check out our rhubarb compote, cherry jam, brioche french toast with warm blueberry compote and our easy vegan pancakes with berry compote. Rosie's top tips: Add a young, furry fig leaf to the pan when cooking down the plums in sugar to infuse the mixture with an added figgy flavour with hints of sweet almond and coconut. If you can't find a fig leaf, other recommended aromatics are vanilla seeds, fresh bay leaves or a hint of cinnamon.
Grilled vegetable skewers with pistachio pesto yogurt
These simple grilled courgette, onion and mushroom kebabs make for barbecuing at its best. Serve with a quick pistachio yogurt, studded with ruby-red pomegranate seeds
Try these grilled vegetable skewer recipe, then discover more courgette recipes and vegetarian BBQ recipes. Recipe author, Rosie Birkett, says: "We’re deep into barbecue season and I couldn’t be happier about it. When the British weather plays ball, I love flinging open the back doors and extending our cooking zone out into the garden, where I’ve got a makeshift outdoor kitchen set up with gas and charcoal barbecues, and an upcycled marble washstand whose legs I had lengthened to make it the perfect height for prepping. "Barbecuing doesn’t have to be too much of a faff, it’s actually one of the easiest ways to get maximum impact from ingredients with relatively simple preparation. I lean on brining and marinades for both meat and veg to up my grill game, because this simple technique can make all the difference. "Keeping a bowl of marinated vegetables in the fridge, along with something really delicious to dip it in once it’s grilled, is a great way to make things easy. "Here I’m sharing one of my most-used marinades for veg such as courgette and mushrooms, and a wonderful crushed pistachio-laced yogurt dip, which is inspired by the delights of Sicilian pistachio pesto. Both the marinade and the dip are workhorses and brilliantly versatile: they go beautifully with white fish, chicken and lamb, so feel free to mix things up. I serve this with some simple flatbreads on the side for wrapping and dipping." Grilled courgette skewers recipe
Nectarine and chilli maple halloumi quinoa salad
Nectarines shine in this salad that highlights the seasonal stone fruit – coating the halloumi in a chilli-maple dressing is a game-changer
Try our nectarine and halloumi salad, then check out more ways with halloumi such as our grilled halloumi salad, halloumi pasta and halloumi skewers. Also discover more of our juiciest nectarine recipes. Pick up a pouch or two of ready-cooked quinoa to save on prep time. Recipe author Rosie Birkett says: "This way of scoring halloumi before grilling was something I learned from the wonderful Greek-Cypriot food writer Georgina Hayden, whose recipe for grilled halloumi with caramelised figs is also a firm favourite in our house in late summer. In this recipe, my chilli- and maple-glazed halloumi is tumbled on top of a nutty, tabbouleh-esque herby quinoa salad, which is finished with a lemony olive oil dressing. If that doesn’t say ‘peak summer’ to you, I don’t know what does." Nectarine and chilli maple halloumi quinoa salad recipe
Celebrate the generous bounty of spring with this veg-packed risotto, loaded with asparagus, peas, broad beans and mint
Try this spring risotto, then check out our pea risotto, tomato risotto, vegetable risotto and more risotto recipes. Rosie's top tips: Prep the spring onion tops as early as possible and get them into iced water – that way they’ll be wonderfully crunchy. Blanch and peel the broad beans well ahead of time. They keep nicely in the fridge until you’re ready to cook. Look out for some really golden-yolked eggs to make this recipe a bit more ‘wow’ – I love Burford Browns or St Ewe.
This golden-crusted, rich braised beef and mushroom pie is the ultimate winter comfort. Enjoy with your favourite greens and buttery mash, and drown in gravy
Recreate this braised beef and mushroom pie, then check out our mushroom wellington, chicken and chorizo pie, Venison pie and more easy pie recipes. olive columnist Rosie Birkett writes: "Have you ever considered the idiom ‘humble pie’? It’s thought to derive from the term ‘numble pie’ (later the ‘n’ was dropped, becoming ‘umble’), which referred to the deer offal meat pie served to the lower classes in medieval times. But, for me, a pie is a truly beautiful thing. Breaking through that golden, flaky crust to reveal a rich, unctuous braise steaming underneath has got to be up there with the most exciting dinner table moments. "The reason that I love pies goes beyond the fact that they are warming and comforting to eat. There’s so much pleasure to be taken in the crafting of a homemade pie, from the browning of the meat or veg for the filling, to the bringing together of the pastry – this is a slow, gentle act of self-care and anticipation which is worth setting aside a few hours for. Pies are also a brilliantly effortless, yet special way to feed a tableful of hungry people because they are the ultimate make-ahead. Do your braising, make your pastry and even assemble the pie the day before, and you’re ready to bring it out of the fridge, glaze it once more with beaten egg and then bake it off while you prepare any sides, leaving plenty of time to have fun with your family or guests. "This recipe is my ultimate beef and mushroom, and it’s one to take the time to slow braise. You could use a slow cooker, if you have one, to make the beefy filling, as this would be more energy efficient. But, if not, you could make sure you also cook something in the oven while the filling braises – jacket potatoes, perhaps, or some hard roasted veg. "This recipe calls for suet pastry, because I love how it mops up the rich, savoury beef gravy, but shortcrust or even puff works well too, and, of course, shop bought is fine if the braising of the filling is the most time investment you can give to this. "I’m married to a Yorkshireman, so most beef pies now have to be accompanied by yorkshire puddings, and they are rather lovely with the pie filling ladled in, but roast or jacket potatoes make a nice accompaniment, too, along with some steamed or sautéed spring greens or sprout tops." Rosie's top tips Make your braised filling ahead and freeze it for future use. Just get it out of the freezer, defrost it fully and then follow the rest of the steps to finish it. Suet pastry is more sticky and elastic than other pastry, so have some flour to hand to lightly dust the rolling pin and the worksurface as you roll it out to avoid it sticking. If the braise looks dry at any point, add a glass of water to it – you want lots of lovely flavourful juices to make that amazing gravy. Follow Rosie on Instagram @homeandgardenbythesea and @rosiefoodie.
The gentle poaching of pears makes the most of Rosie Birkett's favourite unsung seasonal fruit. Enjoy with maple cream or, for even more decadence, crème anglaise
Make Rosie's bay-poached pears, then check out our white chocolate panna cotta with stewed rhubarb, strawberry and white chocolate eton mess and more gluten-free desserts. Quite unexpectedly, weaning my nine-month-old baby daughter has become a journey of culinary rediscovery for me. While it's not without its challenges (let's just say that the dog and kitchen floor have never been better fed), what's fascinating to me is watching her tastes and preferences develop over time as she explores her emerging palate, and this enthralling new world of textures and flavours. Some things are immediately rejected, while others are mushed around and mulled over, but one thing that's usually guaranteed to stay within the bounds of her high chair tray is seasonal fruit. We have a sweet tooth on our hands. In summer, it was plums, which she had an almost insatiable appetite for – to the point where every meal ended with a greengage, Victoria, Mirabelle or a meltdown. I worried for the cooler months, once the plums were hard and out of season, but I shouldn't have fretted, because my daughter is even more in love with pears – and really, who can blame her? Her tangible ecstasy at tasting her first ever pear – her gums sinking into the juicy, slightly mealy flesh, eyes wide with the revelation of their layered, gently perfumed sweetness – made me taste and think about our curvy friends anew. It's not that I'd forgotten about pears, per se, it's just that they sometimes get passed over in the excitement stakes in favour of the more in-your-face fruits: glossy piles of cherries or furry-cheeked peaches. But, really, pears are understated, special and truly marvellous. These days, while we're still in the midst of the joys of late-ripening orchard fruit, our kitchen table is never without a bowl of them, and while eating a perfectly ripe pear is something to savour, poaching pears is a favourite way to transform a fruit that we perhaps take rather for granted in this country. I love the herbaceous flavour that fresh bay leaves impart to poached pears, and my dish, opposite, is a really elegant, elevated winter dessert that can be made ahead of time. I've included maple syrup-infused cream that I think it's wonderful when softly whipped and spooned over the warmed pears. But, if you'd like to make this extra sublime, you could swap it out for some warm custard or creme anglaise. This is a recipe that is – if you'll excuse the pun – ripe for customisation, and if you have any nice wine splashing around in the fridge, you can supplement some of the water with a splash of that. It will add a certain sophistication and complexity. Definitely one for the grown-ups. Follow Rosie on Instagram @homeandgardenbythesea and @rosiefoodie.
Wild mushrooms and horseradish labneh on toast
This recipe takes the classic quick-and-easy dish of mushrooms on toast and dials it up a few notches with homemade labneh, garlic and herbs
Recreate this wild mushrooms and horseradish labneh on toast, then check out our veggie sausage, spinach and mushroom fry with pesto toast, rarebit mushrooms with pickle dressing and more mushroom recipes. Rosie says, "In the burnished depths of the end of autumn, the kitchen becomes my retreat: a place I long to get back to by the end of a frosty walk or rainy dash for errands. While just a matter of months ago, its doors were flung open to welcome the breeze and sunshine – its oven and hobs neglected in favour of a barbecue or picnic blanket – now it’s the glowing hearth of the house, its windows fugged up with steam, its creaky wooden door failing to contain the sumptuous smells wafting from simmering pots. This time of year means comfort food and, for me, there’s nothing more comforting than mushrooms on toast, a dish that has its roots in a very special, sepia-tinged memory from my childhood. There was a period of a few years, before I got too distracted by Nintendo and Saturday morning telly, when I used to go out with my dad in the very early, misty autumn mornings to hunt out the delicious field mushrooms that grew near our house. I remember that we used to get up while it was still dark – which I hated – pull on wellies and waterproofs, and rustle down the country lane by torchlight, clambering over a rickety stile and wading up a steep hill, skirting the statuesque horses that could get feisty if you got too close. My dad could be obsessive – hence the early starts “to beat the flies” – and I’m not sure how but he always knew where to find the best mushrooms: near big, old trees, often in danger (the mushrooms, that is) of being trampled by sheep. Perhaps it was down to his frugal, postwar childhood in rural Kent, the youngest son of a widowed mother, who counted scrumping for apples and foraging for cobnuts among his hobbies, but he had a real nose for a good mushroom patch. I remember one time we really cleaned up and came home with a carrier bag full of plump, damp mushrooms, flecked and fragrant with grass and rotten leaves, which my dad carefully cleaned, then fried in sizzling slicks of butter before piling them onto hot toast. When I put the warm, buttery toast to my lips, the crunch of the bread and the savoury squish of the mushrooms was a revelation. I was in heaven and, to this day, mushrooms on toast is a dish I make religiously. It reminds me of my dear dad – it’s my Proustian madeleine – and it’s something I’ve served at many a pop-up or dinner, reimagined in different ways. This version introduces a cooling swoosh of fresh labneh shot through with fiery horseradish, and it makes a wonderful light lunch or starter for an autumnal gathering."
Sweetcorn, pickled chilli and coriander fritters
Pickling chillies at home is easier than you might expect. Here, they're used to pep up easy sweetcorn fritters which, when served with bacon and hot sauce, make a great light lunch
Try these sweetcorn, chilli and coriander fritters, then check out our sweetcorn and ricotta fritters, leek fritters, cauliflower fritters and courgette fritters, plus discover more vegetarian fritter recipes. Recipe writer Rosie says: "Have you ever pickled your own chillies? The act of preserving these potent little peppers through pickling or fermenting is easier than you might expect and will liven up all manner of dishes. From pastas and pizzas to roast veg salads, or the bright, moreish sweetcorn fritters (one last blast of sunshine before we surrender to the autumn) in the recipe below, it’s a game changer in flavour terms. It’s a satisfying, relatively untaxing early autumn kitchen activity to enjoy once my chilli plants have fruited around the end of September. While pickling with a slightly sweetened vinegar brine is a delicious and uncomplicated way to preserve chillies, I favour a ferment – which transforms the fruits into something funkier and more complex, and it’s actually just as easy to do. Make sure you sterilise a jar beforehand and be patient enough to wait a few days for the friendly bacteria to do their thing and add that unmistakable tang. As a rough guide, I weigh out twice the volume of water to the weight of chillies, then calculate how much salt I need for a 2% brine (so 6g for 300ml). I bring the water, salt and half a teaspoon of sugar to the boil with some aromatics – usually a bay leaf, a clove of garlic and a pinch of coriander seeds – and then allow it to cool before pouring over the sliced chillies in the jar, covering with muslin, and securing it with an elastic band. Then it’s a case of leaving the chillies at room temperature for three to four days, until they’re tasting sour and tangy. Now put the lid back on and keep them in the fridge where they will be good for a couple of months (not that they’ll last that long). When you ferment them, just make sure the slices are well covered with the brine, and always wear gloves when you slice up the chillies."
olive podcast: 10 things you need to know about outdoor entertaining
In this week's episode, author and olive columnist Rosie Birkett shares 10 things you need to know about outdoor entertaining
This week, food writer, author and olive columnist Rosie Birkett shares 10 things you need to know about outdoor entertaining, with lots of tips and tricks to make you the perfect summer host. View oEmbed on the source website Listen out for next week's episode to hear chef Tom Booton share 10 things you need to know about seafood.
This silky, creamy dessert has a subtle sweetness from the honey and a sharp tang thanks to the yogurt. It's a perfect dessert to serve with ripe summer fruits
Make this yogurt and honey panna cotta, then check out our lemon trifle, raspberry roulade, summer pudding and more easy summer desserts. Recipe writer Rosie says: "High summer is upon us now and there’s a tangible feeling of ripeness about it – the sea is warm enough for a daily dip and the gardens and parks have turned from lush and dewy to blousy, abundant and positively humming with life. I always feel like summer sort of sneaks up on me. I seem to put so much energy into anticipating and preparing for the season – planting and tending things to harvest and eat, sorting the garden so it’s not a total embarrassment during lazy summer lunches, and dreaming about the simple seasonal menus I’ll throw together – then all of a sudden it’s here, hot and flying by. "For the sake of absolute transparency, this year we haven’t done as much on the growing food front as I might like, due to the fact we have been nurturing our baby daughter with the startled, sleep-deprived, all-encompassing befuddlement of new parents for the past few months, leaving little time for growing much else. But while our patch has been somewhat neglected, it’s not totally unfruitful – we still have a few serviceable pots of tomatoes, a nice little yield of the sweetest strawberries and white currants, and a tangle of peppery, brightly flowering nasturtiums. "Our garden was apparently once an orchard and, though the former owners seemingly didn’t plant any fruiting trees apart from a sprawling sweet chestnut, I’ve been determined to restore it to its former fruit-bearing status. I’ve planted Cox apple, crab apple, morello cherry, mulberry and cherry plum saplings, which are sadly still a few years off fruiting. One day I’ll hopefully be rolling in the sweet stuff but for now I’m hitting up the local greengrocer and pick-your-own farms, which are flush with fruit at this time of year, from piles of shining Kent cherries, to fuzzy, fragrant peaches and golden apricots. "In summer, fruit becomes part of our daily life, often enjoyed unadorned and just warmed by the sun on our light-flooded kitchen table. This month’s recipe – a wobbly, creamy panna cotta sharpened by natural yogurt and sweetened with floral honey – makes the perfect accompaniment for all the fruits of the moment. I hope you enjoy it, whether it’s with a honey-glazed barbecued peach, tumble of macerated strawberries, smush of raspberry coulis or perfectly ripe fig. If you do happen to have your own fig tree, try infusing the warm cream mixture with some of the younger leaves when you add the vanilla – these will add a beautiful figgy, coconutty edge to the pudding." You will need four dariole moulds for this recipe.
Make the most of seasonal Jersey Royal potatoes as well as smoked haddock and spinach in this satisfying pie – it makes an ideal summer lunch, best served alfresco
Try this smoked haddock pie, then check out our healthy fish pie, Bombay fish pie and more pie recipes. For more ways with this smoked fish, see our smoked haddock risotto and our smoked haddock gratin, plus check out many more smoked haddock recipes. Recipe writer Rosie says: "With British summertime comes a host of pleasures that make spending a little extra time in the kitchen a true delight, as it precedes even more time spent outside in the warmer weather. It’s the part of the year when moving out of the city to be by the sea with a garden feels like the best decision we ever made. (It doesn’t always feel like that – there are times in the darker months when we miss being in a big, buzzing city, being able to dive out of the rain into a café, restaurant or bar and eat food from all over the world.) Now, when we finish work, we can walk to the beach for a swim, then have a few beers. At weekends, we throw together impromptu picnics – café-bought pastries when we’re in a hurry, or crab mayonnaise sandwiches wrapped in foil to eat on coastal walks. It’s the perfect time to embrace native produce, from the sweetest strawberries to the tartest gooseberries, plus the first runner and broad beans – eaten young, straight from the pod – and the last of the asparagus. Jersey Royal potatoes are in there, too. The pronounced, special flavour of these early earthy pearls has much to do with where they’re grown – on slopes strewn with local seaweed that nourishes the soil. This pie recipe combines them with gently poached smoked haddock, spinach and wild garlic – if you can find it – for a celebratory early summer lunch that’s best eaten outside with friends. This year that will be all the more sweet as we will be introducing many of them to our new little daughter, who was born a few months ago."
If you're planning to go foraging for wild garlic this spring, here's a perfect recipe for putting those fresh, pungent leaves to great use
Make this spring soda bread, then check out our classic soda bread, seeded rye bread, wholemeal bread and laminated milk bread. For a party starter try our garlic bread recipe and then try our wild garlic recipes. Recipe writer Rosie says: "Patches of glossy wild ramsons choose this month to yawn their unmistakable garlic scent across British woodlands and forests. These pungent, hyper-seasonal green leaves replace garlic cloves in my cooking at this time of year. "A little goes a long way, too: it’s mellower than fresh garlic but still pretty pungent, especially raw. Use it with caution rather than wild abandon. I prefer the younger, more tender leaves to the fibrous, older ones, and also use the pretty white flowers as a garnish and garlicky seasoning for many savoury dishes. "If you’re picking your own wild garlic, make sure you’re 100% certain that it’s definitely what you think it is. Look for smooth, pointed green leaves and small, star-shaped white flowers (not to be confused with poisonous lily of the valley, which looks similar). The biggest giveaway, of course, is the scent of fresh garlic. Make sure you’re picking from a plentiful patch; cutting, not uprooting; and leaving behind enough for wildlife. If it doesn’t smell like garlic, or you’re in any doubt, don’t pick it – instead, book onto a foraging course or buy from a trusted supplier. "You can order wild garlic on Natoora from Ocado, or seek out one of the many reputable foragers who harvest and sell online. Wild garlic is also cropping up increasingly on restaurant menus. I use it to make a tub or two of pesto, which gets blitzed up and frozen to keep spring alive in my kitchen for a little longer. It’s a dream with eggs, too: finely shredded and stirred into egg mayo sandwiches, omelettes, frittatas and scrambles. Wilt it into meaty braises; chop and mix through stuffings; blitz into sauces, mayos and purées; use it to add a bright green garlic note to risottos; and use it as a filling for ravioli. "Another delicious way to use wild garlic is in savoury bakes – swirl it into the filling for a tart or mix with sausagemeat to bake between layers of puffed pastry for punchy sausage rolls. The recipe opposite uses its gorgeous green charms to infuse a simple soda bread that can be made and baked in about an hour. It has a pleasingly crunchy crust and is crowned with oatmeal. Eat it slathered with butter as an accompaniment to a spring soup or chicken stew."
Pair in-season rhubarb with zesty orange and aromatic cardamom to make this oven-roasted compote – it's great dolloped on pancakes and porridge, or served with dessert
Make this rhubarb compote, then check out our rhubarb jam, rhubarb crumble, stewed rhubarb and more rhubarb recipes. Recipe writer Rosie says: "The start of March excites me because, while it’s still very capable of freezing winds (particularly where we are on the coast), it’s lighter and there are signs that the big chill is behind us. The name is so fitting: the unstoppable ‘march’ of nature after the stasis of winter. Spring is on its merry way, bringing with it exciting things to pick, cook and eat. "On our walks with the dog, we see and smell alexanders, which dominate the beach paths. Some people make fritters from the flowering heads and soups with the leaves, but I don’t love the flavour – I’m always much more interested in the wild garlic that starts to make itself known in the woodlands at this time of year, picking a bag to use in the kitchen as soon as it’s ready. "In the garden, too, things are changing. My daffodil bulbs are pushing through, flashing their blousy, canary-yellow trumpets. And what a rewarding sight – now I’m glad that crouching in the cold earth to plant them while I was heavily pregnant wasn’t a completely nonsensical move. It’s too easy to let these subtle seasonal shifts escape our notice, so I take some meditative moments at the kitchen door to soak it in. There’s comfort in observing everything on the cusp of springing into new life for another year. "March also means the last chance to cook with forced rhubarb. Its vivid pink, nutrient-packed trunks sprout in muggy, dark sheds by candlelight in Yorkshire’s Rhubarb Triangle. My oven-roasted compote (below) is the perfect way to make use of a haul of the hot pink stuff without having to craft an elaborate dessert. Plus the cardamom adds a gorgeously fragrant note. I’ve added maple syrup as a nod to the forests of Quebec, where maple trees are currently thawing from their wintry slumber so the sap can be tapped and processed into syrup for another year. The two pair beautifully, particularly when spooned over pancakes. "While we’re on the subject of rhubarb, rhubarb G&Ts are a lovely way to toast the start of the season. Make your own by infusing sugar-tossed rhubarb in gin. Or use Slingsby Yorkshire Rhubarb Gin, which is made with forced rhubarb from the Rhubarb Triangle."
We've given classic bread and butter pudding a boozy twist with the addition of rum. Sprinkling with demerara sugar gives it a golden, caramelised crust
Bake this comforting rum and raisin bread and butter pudding, then check out our bread pudding, classic bread and butter pudding, brioche bread and butter pudding, chocolate bread and butter pudding and more British dessert recipes. Recipe writer Rosie Birkett says: “There’s a lot of ‘new year, new you’ content around right now and that’s absolutely fine. I’m all for doing what you need to for your waistline/the environment/your liver and to motivate you into 2022. But for me, who feels the mood-dampening effects of the dark mornings and gloomy afternoons intensely, January has to involve a significant quotient of pleasure in order to maintain my sanity. And in the depths of this potentially melancholic month, what better source of pleasure is there than what we cook and eat? I take comfort in nourishing, delicious, plant-centric foods, with brothy, greens-packed noodle soups, warming bowls of dhal, hearty winter salads and roasted vegetable traybakes on a rotating roster. Taking advantage of blank diary pages after the furious socialising of the festive break to spend weekends battened down at home, feet up with a mug of something hot and a stack of food magazines or cookbooks is a lovely way to relax and get inspired. And a session of batch cooking to fill your freezer will make future you happy, too. I’m all for easing the load at this time of year. I also want pudding. Proper hot, rib-sticking desserts spooned steaming into warm bowls and topped with lashings of cream or custard. Sweet things that involve cheering doses of sweetness that fill the kitchen with the scent of vanilla or cinnamon or caramelised nuts, kept in the fridge and reheated when I’m feeling the energy ebb away in the afternoon. One such dessert that always hits the spot, that also has a pleasing resourcefulness and frugality to it befitting of January, is bread and butter pudding. It was a favourite of my late father, who would twitch his shoulders excitedly at the prospect of what he always lovingly abbreviated to “B and BP”. This version involves rum-spiked raisins, warming spice and plenty of citrus zest, is custardy underneath and crisp with caramelised demerara on top, just as it should be."
Radicchio, fennel and blood orange salad
Celebrate jewel-like blood oranges, fragrant fennel and bitter radicchio in this vibrant salad, sure to add some joy to your February dinner table
Throw together this radicchio, fennel and blood orange salad, then check out our simple chopped salad, fennel salad, beetroot, orange and feta salad and more vegetarian salad recipes. We've also got more seasonal fennel recipes and blood orange recipes. Cook’s tip: Boost your plant points "This seasonal beauty is packed with over 8 plant points thanks to the addition of a tin of butterbeans. Enjoy juicy seasonal blood oranges with crisp radicchio, aniseed-y fennel, pomegranate seeds and chopped pistachios." View Green Video on the source website Note these changes to the recipe will alter the nutritional information displayed. Here are more ways to boost your plant points and plant-packed recipes. Recipe author, Rosie says: "Last month, I wrote all about the comforting things we can cook to get us through the bleakness of January, sharing an indulgent recipe for my boozy bread and butter pudding. But February, for me, always feels like a more realistic and appropriate time to be digging into gorgeous winter salads and celebrating the deep colours and pronounced flavours of the produce available to us at this time of year. The word February actually comes from the Latin word februa, meaning ‘to cleanse’. It was named after the Roman Februalia, a month-long festival of purification and atonement, though it had more to do with offering sacrifices to the gods than enjoying some swanky farmers’ market haul. There’s certainly something bordering on ethereal and definitely something cleansing about the beautiful, vivid ingredients on offer at the moment, and none more so than the bitter leaves and blood oranges that have inspired this simple but delicious salad, opposite. Both are ingredients I make a beeline for this month, usually sourcing them from my local greengrocer or Natoora, which now delivers nationwide and offers a wonderful array of carefully sourced fresh produce from passionate farmers who, in the case of its radicchio growers, work with heirloom varieties and saved seeds (find out more at natoora.com). I adore the pretty pink radicchio, which looks more like an award-winning rose than a salad, and is especially lovely for Valentine’s Day dinners. As are the blood oranges, with their crimson flesh and distinctively sweet-sharp juice that becomes the basis for so many culinary delights for me at this time of year. I love buying a whole crate or box of them to use in anything from morning juices (or evening cocktails) to fish dishes and meaty braises. But a salad with fennel and bitter leaves is one of the purest ways to celebrate this flamboyant citrus. We are well and truly out of beige food territory with these ingredients, and I feel like there’s something seriously optimistic about putting together dishes that not only taste great but make you smile just to look at them – a real precursor of things to come and a reminder that spring is really just around the corner. I’ve kept my recipe plant-based but you can of course crumble over some feta or top with fried halloumi to bulk it out, if you like. As it is, it makes an elegant starter or side for the table. I sometimes add a handful of spicy Perelló olives for a chilli-hot kick, too."
The spiced salted butter sauce makes this elegant starter extra-special – the shrimps need to be swimming in puddles of it. The crumpets are excellent at soaking up the buttery goodness, too
Try this potted shrimp recipe, then check out our potted crab with coronation salad, prawn toast, prawn cocktail, prawn vol-au-vents and more starter recipes. Recipe writer Rosie Birkett says: "One of the most stringent Christmas family rituals in the Birkett house was no presents before breakfast bacon sandwiches by the tree – with champagne for my parents and orange juice for me and my sister. The older I’ve got, the more I’ve appreciated that this particular custom had its roots in my parents’ Christmas Eve overindulgences rather than in anything more wholesome. But, to this day, not a present is opened before crispy bacon is splashed with worcestershire sauce and pressed between two slices of bacon-fat-dipped, squishy white bread – though now we don’t crack into the booze before midday. This year feels all the more special as it will be our first Christmas in the new house and we will be hosting with help from mum, who has always been the grand dame of Christmas cooking in our family. Even though I’m doing the bulk of the cooking, mum can’t help but rock up with rich, homemade chicken stock to bolster the gravy, plus delicious cumberland and bread sauces. I’m not going to argue – who doesn’t want a bit of help with the catering? However lovely it is bringing people together at this time of year, most of us also know how keenly Christmas can harness a sense of loss and longing for those who are no longer sitting around the table with us. It’ll be the 16th year without my dad, who was always the life and soul of the party, and without whom there is still a gaping hole in proceedings. I was talking to my friend, Ukrainian chef and food writer Olia Hercules, about Ukrainian festive traditions, and she told me about one particularly poignant custom that speaks to this beautifully: “One thing we do that is really sweet is we put out a plate of food and shot of vodka for those who have passed away, for their spirits.” This year, there will definitely be an extra bacon sandwich by the tree, and we might just have to pop the champagne to go with it, too. I know you don’t need a bacon sandwich recipe, so here I’m sharing another family tradition: potted shrimp. We have it on toasted muffins as a starter on Christmas Day. It’s as much about the spiced butter as it is the shrimp – they need to be absolutely swimming in burnt-orange puddles of the stuff. I’ve switched out muffins for crumpets here, because the holes make them even better for soaking up that gorgeous butter."
These golden cheese and sesame biscuit discs are impossibly light and buttery, and very hard to resist straight from the oven. Spices such as nutmeg and caraway seeds add an extra flavour kick
Bake these spiced cheese biscuits for a festive treat, then check out our cheese straws, Christmas biscuits, lebkuchen, cinnamon biscuits and rosemary and walnut shortbread. Also take a look at our Christmas cheeseboard and cheese grazing board for tips on how to put together the perfect spread. Rosie says: "I first ate these delicious biscuits at a friend’s party, fresh from the oven, buttery and fragrant, and showered in finely grated parmesan. I became obsessed with how perfectly cheesy and melty they were, and so friends directed me to Jonathan Meades’ The Plagiarist in the Kitchen cookbook for the recipe, a variation on chef Simon Hopkinson’s biscuits. "I bust them out for all manner of hosting situations because they’re quick to throw together and never fail. I add nutmeg to make them more festive, a hit of caraway for a fragrant edge, and sesame for nuttiness. They’re impossibly light, dissolve on the tongue and very hard to resist. "The joy of these cheesy biscuits is that, once cooled, you can wrap them in a pretty bag (warning: they are too buttery for paper bags), tie with ribbon and you’ve got a beautiful edible gift. Or you can make the cheesy log and freeze it or stash it in the fridge ready to slice and bake just before your guests arrive, filling your kitchen with the heavenly scent of butter and cheese while you offer still-warm biscuits with a welcome drink. They are ideal with negronis and whisky sours. Add an over-the-top flurry of parmesan just before you serve them."