Best restaurants in Covent Garden: where to eat and drink
From Neal's Yard to Leicester Square, we've found the best places to eat in and around the West End, from intimate seafood bistros to contemporary wine bars and Laotian banquets
Looking for Covent Garden restaurants? Here are our favourite restaurants near Covent Garden for pre-theatre dinners and post-shopping meals. Check out our ideas for eating and drinking from The Strand to theatre land and beyond... For more recommendations, check out our picks of the best restaurants in Chelsea, best restaurants in Soho, best restaurants in Paddington or the best restaurants in Kings Cross. Also discover more of our London restaurant reviews. Best places to eat and drink in Covent Garden Cô Thành – for Vietnamese noodles Hong Kong favourite Cô Thành comes to Covent Garden, taking the elegant former Frenchie site and adding a vibrant Vietnamese canteen sheen – mirrored tabletops, signage popping from exposed brick walls and colourful plastic stools outside. Sharing starters include minced beef wrapped in betel leaf, sausage skewers glistening in tamarind glaze and beer battered chicken wings with sweet, spicy fish sauce. Next comes an extensive list of noodle soups, my highlight being fragrant bún bò huế, the broth sweetened with pineapple that tenderises the rare beef and beef shank slices along with springy meatballs, fresh herbs and shredded morning glory. Seafood-packed bún Thái has a tom yum edge thanks to tamarind, galangal and ginger, while bún mám packs a fermented umami punch, and bún riêu’s crab base is ideal for thinner vermicelli noodles. We were recommended to drop a couple of unique yellow chillies into our broth, allow them to infuse their floral fragrant spicy kick and then remove. Dinky desserts punch above their weight, from kem chuối inspired coconut and banana ice cream lifted with lime zest, to tiramisu laced with rum and dark roast coffee that caramelises into the mascarpone. Dipping deep-fried sponge fritters into Vietnamese drip cà phê took me right back to Hanoi’s quirky coffee shops. cothanhrestaurant.com/london Adoh! – for Sri Lankan sharing plates Inspired by the Sri Lankan expression of greeting or surprise, Adoh! (‘Hey’) is a Covent Garden newcomer from Kolamba founders Eroshan and Aushi Meewella. Channelling the buzz of Colombo’s street food scene it’s a perfect pop-in when you need a fix of heat. Sri Lankans love to share and here there’s a riot of small plates, sambols and spicy mains, bright and colourful to match the walls splashed with the country’s famous lorry murals. We started with mutton rolls: fat cylinders of crisp fried pastry bulging with spiced mince and potato. Just £7 for two, a bargain in this prime London location. (In fact, everything on the menu is under £20). Another must-order is kothu, the nation’s signature street snack, a tangle of chopped roti stir-fried with vegetables, egg and meat or seafood. I chose crab – as good as anything I’d experienced on a trip to Sri Lanka. The menu is short and easily navigable so arrive hungry and choose two or three snacks, including vadai (spiced lentil doughnuts), sticky-sweet devilled sausages and coconut roti with lunu miris, a sharp onion relish. Curries feature in the mains. We plumped for classic black pork, with a deep, roasted flavour, balanced with tangy tamarind, and served with rice, dhal and accompaniments. Sides like morning glory with garlic and red chilli, tomato and onion sambol, and seeni sambol (caramelised onion relish) round things out neatly. Drinks lean tropical: arrack-based spritzes, rum punches and ginger beer coolers that cut through the spice without overpowering it. olive tip: Save room for the only dessert on the menu – jaggery soft serve. Smooth and caramel-like with a subtle treacle sweetness, it’s all that’s needed to douse the fire of the punchy savoury dishes. adoh.co.uk Town – for lavish dinners The vibe at Stevie Parle and Jonathan Downey's new restaurant is a modern take on early James Bond cool and classy. At the standalone bar, pick from three varieties of martini (by Kevin Armstrong of Satan’s Whiskers fame) to pair with fried sage leaves, heather honey and chilli. The space age pass to the kitchen is ringed in glowing baize green and every bit of detail from the ceiling to the frosted glasses shouts ‘attention’. As with all of Stevie Parle's projects, provenance is key. Wildfarmed beef is raised for the restaurant and served wine-cured with crunchy candied walnuts and posh ‘cheese whizz’, as steaks or in fat form as the cooking medium for pink fir potatoes. There are Seasalter clams swimming in sherry or as a main, curried with cod; Isle of Mull scallops with smoked chilli butter and Kentish asparagus swathed in Mangalista lardo. Kasmiri saffron risotto is served with bone marrow to be scooped out and stirred through, mighty rich in flavour and a show-off on the plate. Buttermilk pudding with roasted nespole (loquats) or a scoop of Todoli lemon and Thai basil sorbet make a refreshing end. town.restaurant Ikoyi — for contemporary fine dining Jeremy Chan and Iré Hassan-Odukale’s second iteration of their highly acclaimed contemporary fine-dining restaurant at 180 The Strand. The spice-focussed menu has evolved to new heights and cooking techniques courtesy of a much bigger space, while keeping the theme more than ever on micro-seasonal British ingredients. Tasting menu £300; ikoyilondon.com Setlist – for casual riverside dining To celebrate 25 years of Somerset House, Setlist has arrived – a sharp, summery pop-up that blends food, art and music in a pavilion perched above the Thames. It’s one of the capital’s coolest new hangouts, boasting riverside views, serious culinary clout and a laid-back festival feel. Opeoluwa of Future Plate plates up punchy Nigerian-inspired dishes – crisp goat croquettes with a hum of heat, and jerk chicken offset with a scotch bonnet mango chutney that’s all fire and fruit. Sophie Wyburd teams up with Wildfarmed for pizzettes that go big on comfort and character – roast potatoes and taleggio mingle with fennel sausage and caramelised onion, while smoked aubergine meets sweet-hot honey in a must-try veggie twist. Andrea Montes Renaud and Laura Copp use heritage Mexican maize for their hand-pressed tortillas. The Baja fish taco, zingy with lime slaw and chilli, and lifted with burnt garlic and habanero mayo, is a standout. Drinks are seasonal and sunny. Try the Somerset Spritz – light, botanical and best sipped as the sun sets to the beat of a live DJ set echoing across the river. somersethouse.org.uk Oriole – for cocktails and live music From the moment you step into Oriole you know you’re in for a treat. The speakeasy-style interiors – all plush textures, low lighting, and eclectic global curios – evoke a feeling of discovery that carries through the entire evening. Head chef Gustavo Giallonardo’s menu draws on the vibrant fusion cuisines of Latin America, with playful plates that surprise and delight. Standouts include sea bass ceviche in bright Amarillo leche de tigre, tender lamb rump with spring greens, huacatay and black olives (reminiscent of a crisp, savoury latke), and melting pork cheek with mash and kimchi Nikkei. Finish with pineapple tartare and a cooling coconut and tarragon sorbet. Live music fills the bar while the cocktail list – arranged by continent and complete with tasting notes – brings the more obscure ingredients to life. Try the Saraburi Punch, inspired by Thai mango sticky rice, for a silky, delicately sweet tipple. Warm, intuitive service seals the deal – a truly memorable night out. oriolebar.com Parsons – for an intimate seafood dinner With its Victorian-style white tiles and high marble-counter tables, Parsons has the feel of a traditional, old-school fish restaurant that’s been there for decades, not one that only opened in Covent Garden at the end of 2017. Sibling to The 10 Cases across the road on Endell Street, Parsons is informal enough to drop in for a half-dozen oysters and a glass of fizz, or settle down for a full-on feast of sea trout tartare with bloody mary jelly; octopus with duck-fat potatoes, paprika and parsley oil; or a hearty bowl of clam chowder packed with smoked bacon, shellfish, potatoes and cream. parsonslondon.co.uk J Sheekey – for seafood in an iconic setting Dating from 1896, J Sheekey is located in the heart of West End theatreland so it comes as no surprise that the walls are adorned with portraits of celebrity clientele in the four interconnecting dining rooms. Both the restaurant and its adjacent oyster bar serve an impressive choice of oysters and crustaceans, but the famous Sheekey’s fish pie, and monkfish and tiger prawn tikka masala remain firm favourites with the regulars. j-sheekey.co.uk Officina OO – for pasta and unique pizza New to Covent Garden (there are existing sites in Old St and Fitzrovia), this modern Italian has a real focus on expertly crafted fresh pasta – Officina means workshop or lab and in the centre of the airy dining room there is a glass walled booth with a chef crafting the daily specials in front of diners. What makes this new branch, tucked minutes away from Neal St, unique is the addition of Nonna’s pizza – Officina’s take on a traditional style where the pizza is baked at a lower temperature in a special wheel-shaped rutiello pizza pan. Expect a thicker, lighter crust than usual and lots of fresh toppings – we tried the Pazzarella which came piled up with rocket pesto, prosciutto crudo, aged balsamic and a blanket of parmesan. The pastas are as good as expected, a particular highlight being the occhi – a filled ravioli-style pasta stuffed with pork genovese, parsley pesto and cheese. From the snacks and starters the croquettes had a rich oozy sausage and smoked provolone filling in a crisp shell, and the Sicilian tuna ceviche was spankingly fresh slices of cured fish in a zingy orange and chive dressing. The wine list has some well-priced Italian classics but don’t miss the Italian margarita with its delicious twist of amaretto served with a maraschino cherry, perfect as a dessert cocktail. officina00.co.uk Story Cellar – for rotisserie cooking A modern bistro from the team behind two Michelin-starred Story, with a focus on rotisserie cooking and counter dining. Nestled in Neal’s Yard, Story Cellar is the sister restaurant to Tom Sellers’ acclaimed Restaurant Story, offering a relaxed, Parisian-inspired modern bistro experience. The space hums with energy, with counter seating providing a front-row view of the chefs in action. The snail bolognese on toast is a must-order, rich and deeply savoury, while the tuna tartare is light and fresh, and the cheesy chestnut gnocchi delivers pure comfort. For mains, the dry-aged pork chop is expertly cooked but the rotisserie chicken – succulent and golden-skinned – steals the show. Don’t skip the crispy wild mushrooms, a standout side that’s packed with flavour. For dessert, the jerusalem artichoke soft serve surprises with its nutty depth, while the bread and butter pudding, with tonka bean and orange custard, is warm and indulgent. With a strong wine list, polished service and an open kitchen that makes counter dining the best spot, Story Cellar delivers refined yet effortless bistro dining in Covent Garden. storycellar.co.uk Heliot Steak House – for elevated American cuisine Heliot Steak House, right at the heart of Leicester Square’s famous Hippodrome Casino, overlooking the Grand Casino, has recently been given a refurb. It majors in elevated American cuisine, with buttery prime USDA steaks the stars of the show. Everything here is about the drama, from plumptious prawns presented with billowing clouds of dry ice, to perfectly grilled steaks, sliced at the table and served with oozy mac ‘n’ cheese (with a rarebit-style topping), creamy spinach and rosemary-salted fries. There’s a choice of 120 wines (choose Ramnista Xinomavro, a velvety red from Greece, a perfect partner for red meat). There are also fish, lamb, chicken and pasta dishes, and some vegetarian options. And if you do get lucky on the tables, you might want to splash out on a luxurious Japanese wagyu sirloin. hippodromecasino.com/restaurant-bars-lounges/ Henri – for a modern take on a classic French bistro Chef Jackson Boxer (Brunswick House, Orasay) has partnered with hospitality pioneers, Xavier Padovani, Olivier Bon, Pierre-Charles Cros and Romée de Goriainoff (the brains behind the Experimental Group), and unveiled Henri, a glamorous and playful, Parisian-inspired restaurant on the ground floor of the Henrietta hotel in the heart of Covent Garden. A homage to the traditional Paris bistro with interpretations of some of Jackson’s bistro favourites, expect big and bold dishes as well as an expansive, mainly French, wine list and inventive cocktails. henricoventgarden.com La Compagnie Neal’s Yard – for a hidden wine bar This stylish little wine bar hidden away in Neal’s Yard is the perfect cosy bolthole for a glass or two in this tourist-thronged patch of central London. La Compagnie has been a fixture on London’s new-wave wine bar scene since 2014 – it has sister bars in Paris and New York – and is set over two floors and a terrace, the latter a particularly lovely spot for drinking in warmer weather. The focus is very much on smaller producers and hard-to-find bottles, with friendly staff on hand to make suggestions. Those looking for a bottle have a hefty slab of a menu to investigate but there’s also an impressively lengthy list of wines by the glass – perfect for trying lots of different things. Spot-on recommendations from our server come paired with seasonal European small plates from new head chef Ranieri Raimondi. Highlights include a delicious Jura chardonnay, zesty and minerally, with plump, buttery drunken scallops in a rich foie gras sauce; and torched mackerel with breadcrumbs and endive paired with a light and velvety Corsican red full of juicy red fruits. compagniewinebar.com/london Muse at RSA House – for cocktails in a hidden setting Hidden away in the elegant Georgian environs of RSA House, Muse offers a welcome respite from the busy nearby Strand, with a fine line in sustainably minded cocktails. In partnership with Idyll Drinks and Company of Cooks, the bar is on a mission to spotlight British ingredients, all served in a relaxed, subtly luxe setting. Drinks, designed by Marcis Dzelzainis (Sager + Wilde), are brimming with unusual seasonal and botanical ingredients, from hawthorn and rosehip rum cocktails to a truffle vodka martini. Particularly interesting are a roster of classic cocktails made with wild distillates. Our favourites included a pisco sour made with pineapple weed liqueur – smooth and creamy with a delicate tropical cast – and a wild carrot margarita with a warming, earthy, herbaceous character. thersa.org/muse-at-rsa-house Old Chang Kee – for curry puffs The Singaporean curry puffs at Old Chang Kee are some of the most flavourful savoury pastries anywhere in the city. The signature chicken curry puff is the one to go for. It’s filled with spiced chicken, potatoes and boiled egg – made to a secret recipe, so coveted that it’s locked away in a bank vault! There’s also a spicy ‘mala’ version which has the additional of mouth-tingling Szechuan pepper sauce. For a sweet treat, try their new Kaya Puffs – filled with fragrant pandan coconut jam. oldchangkee.co.uk Frog By Adam Handling – for a special occasion tasting menu There’s a lot to take in at Frog even before the meal begins. Design features include a fun frieze of Piccadilly Circus, juxtaposed with more classic décor, white leather table tops and a dramatic marble open kitchen. Fireworks continue in a tasting menu that spans the British Isles, from chef-owner Adam Handling’s native Scottish waters to the Cornish coast. After generous snacks and bread with Adam’s famous chicken butter, come well-balanced dishes such scallops with smoked chilli; cod, beans, quail or wagyu with morel and truffle; through to cherry bakewell or caramel and salted milk. Some ingredients are foraged by the team and nothing is wasted – all by-products are used up in clever ways in both cocktails in the basement bar in snacks such as crab biscuits made using the soft bones of lobster legs. frogbyadamhandling.com Bancone – for pasta The tagline for Bancone might be “pasta, prosecco, espresso” – but it’s those first little mouthfuls of arancini from the antipasti that you’ll be raving about, come home time. They arrive as three golden nuggets, their crisp armour gives way to the lightest rice, still just al dente, no stodge, and bags of flavour. First (on our visit) earthy mushroom, next creamy dolcelatte, and finally saffron with a fiery heart of ’nduja. It’s hard not to be mesmerised by the rest of the menu, though, particularly if you sit at the marble-topped, brass-trimmed bar, overlooking Louis and his team at work. Fresh pasta, which is made and rolled upstairs, is flash-boiled before being tossed with any of the 10 sauces on offer. Limited edition items also populate the menu, like the silk handkerchiefs 'carbonara', where thick ribbons of pasta are tossed in a cheesy sauce before being topped with crisp shards of pancetta and a golden egg yolk. Chitarra – guitar-string like spaghetti – is slicked with cacio e pepe and topped with a crisp, peppered cheese wafer. Oxtail ragu, slow cooked for 10 hours until sticky and sweet, clings to bouncy folds of pappardelle. Simple, quality ingredients – the bedrock of good Italian cookery – are shown proper respect. Hispi cabbage is charred and dressed with red chilli, garlic and 2017 Planeta olive oil. Chicory and beans are held up with sweet and sour onions, and a deeply savoury anchovy crumb. Classic negronis with the right amount of chunky ice and a twist of orange are just as well received as the prosecco, and don’t leave without a palate-cleansing, retro-tastic Amalfi lemon syllabub (recipe below) and granita served in its original host. Holiday vibes for the win. bancone.co.uk Arôme – for classic pastries with an East Asian twist At two central London bakery-cafés, co-founded with Singaporean restaurateur Ellen Chew, French pastry ace Alix André delivers classic croissants and pain au chocolats, while also exploring how that repertoire might evolve using East Asian flavours. His miso bacon ‘escargot’ (so-called for its coiled, snail-shell shape) neatly deploys sweet and savoury flavours. “Spring onions and a citrus syrup glaze add a touch of acid to cut through the fat,” explains Alix. Arôme’s popular honey butter toast (a thick slice of fluffy Japanese shokupan bread in a crunchy honey crust) was inspired by Alix’s experiences in Japan: “I was taken by the craftsmanship I experienced there, the dedication to perfecting even the simplest steps.” aromebakery.co.uk The 10 Cases – for wine The name stems from the fact that this buzzy little Covent Garden bar and bistro only ever buys 10 cases of the wines on the concise list in a quest to offer customers new experiences each time they visit. It was opened in 2011 by Ian Campbell and Will Palmer, who were bored of overpriced wine lists that never changed. Will says: “I think part of the success of 10 Cases is the constantly changing wine list and having more than 300 wines with very small cash mark-ups and small corkage charges. I think the ability to be able to drink really good and interesting wine in an unpretentious setting strikes a chord with many people.” 10cases.co.uk Click here for the best wine bars across the country Lao Café, Chandos Place – for casual Laotian food Authentic’ is overused on London’s restaurant scene, but Saiphin Moore has managed to do the word justice with her traditional Laotian cooking Covent Garden restaurant Lao Café. After successfully running seven branches of cool and casual Thai restaurant Rosa’s, Saiphin’s mission is to bring traditional home cooking from her original Laotian roots to Londoners. laocafe.co.uk Louie – for elegant seafood and cocktails Conveniently located in theatre district, this converted townhouse is home to three floors of New Orleans-inspired French glamour. Take a seat at the marble seafood counter in the ground floor bistro, or continue up to the first-floor restaurant, where intricately patterned carpets, gilt-framed mirrors, squishy sofas and frilly lamp shades add an elegantly eclectic touch. Start your meal with a selection from the raw bar; a tray of oysters (there are four varieties to choose from), sesame crusted tuna and yellow tail crudo lifted with green tomato, ginger and chilli. Hearty mains range from smoked Black Angus short ribs and black truffle pappardelle to king scallops with cuttlefish ink risotto and whole BBQ lobster in a silky butter sauce mopped up with French baguette toast. Whole lettuce hearts in a cashew dressing make a crunchy, refreshing side. The delicate, contemporary take on a southern pecan pie is a must-order dessert. Cocktails are served in embossed coupes; we loved the citrusy, floral Charles’, with a boozy absinthe edge. Upstairs, the plush Alligator Bar cocoons guests in its chic, New Orleans-style oasis, where champagne flows and boozy cocktails are shaken to the back drop of live jazz (dancing with the energetic staff is very much encouraged). louie-london.com Ave Mario — for lavish, camp interiors and superior Italian ingredients Anyone who loved the OTT charms of Gloria and Circo Populare will find much to enjoy in Big Mamma’s latest opening. Loosely inspired by Florence, it's a sprawling affair with almost 300 seats spread over three floors of kitschy, Instagrammable interiors, from the ground-floor dining room complete with soaring ceilings, green-and-white striped walls and a towering bar stocked with 3,500 bottles, to a louche, mirrored, 70s-style basement bar complete with an open kitchen where you can watch pizzaiolos work their magic. There’s campy Catholic iconography scattered throughout, pictures of Sopranos characters in the loos, pretty vegetable-shaped crockery and a 60cm marbled stracciatella ice-cream cake on the menu to rival Gloria’s famed supersized lemon meringue pie. It’s boisterously fun and undoubtedly a place you go to soak up the atmosphere, but the food — mostly crowdpleasing spins on classics — also impresses, from luscious carbonara ravioli filed with oozy egg yolk and flakes of guanciale, to the pillowiest of pizzas decadently topped with salty pearls of Venetian caviar. Ingredients, sourced from some 180 artisan suppliers, are top drawer — think 36-month-old prosciutto; dreamily creamy Puglian burrata; silky mortadella; and liberal clouds of umami aged parmesan. coventgarden.london/ave-mario Blacklock — for a sustainable approach to meat The Covent Garden branch of Blacklock is in a listed building just off Bedford Street in Covent Garden in what was once the location for the King's Coachmakers and it's their biggest yet. The mid-century modern/industrial feel is welcoming and the menu focusses on the affordable and sustainable approach to meat that is central to Blacklock's approach. A starter of Cull Yaw Crumpet signals what lies ahead. Dry-aged Cornish mutton shoulder and leg is slow-roasted overnight in a range of spices until it's soft and ready to fall apart. This is then placed atop a crumpet with English mustard and pickled onions. A jug of gravy is offered to pour over the meal and soak deep into the crumpet, resulting in an impressive depth of flavour. Blacklock's signature 'All In' option is a sharing platter of beef, pork and lamb skinny chops piled high on charcoal-grilled flatbreads, the juice and flavours of the meat flowing into the bread. There are also meat-free options, barbecued halloumi and coal-roasted celeriac. The drinks menu is extensive with a range of cocktails, wine and their own Blacklock Lager and Pale Ales, brewed with Harbour Brew Co. in Cornwall. theblacklock.com/covent-garden Joe Allen — for American classics with a British accent in Theatreland Beloved by the theatre crowd — that's those on stage, behind the scenes and in the audience — the USA-inspired all-day restaurant has moved into new premises off The Strand, with new (ex-The Ivy) chef Gary Lee on board. Playful touches kick off the menu; mini shepherd's 'tarts', a truffled cheese toastie and 'love it or hate it' — a riff on Marmite. Classic dishes include slow-baked smoked ribs, strip steak with fat chips, hotdogs with or without chilli and a decent caesar along with seasonal mains such as hearty braised beef in barolo and roasted squash risotto. Dessert features the very American peanut butter and jelly ice cream sandwich and the very British eccles cake with cheese. What make Joe's so special, along with live piano and great cocktails (try a New York Wasp with salt and paprika rim) is its brilliantly laidback but ever-efficient staff who make it seem as fun to work as it is to eat there. The set menu available until 7pm offers great value at three courses for £27.50. joeallen.co.uk Jamie Oliver Catherine St — for comforting classics Catherine Street by Jamie Oliver marks the chef’s return to the London restaurant scene. A menu of comforting classics includes starters of devilled eggs, oysters and mushrooms on toast; sharing dishes like ox cheek pie and Sutton Hoo chicken with stroganoff sauce; homemade pastas, daily fish specials, steak and Trevor’s chicken, named in honour of Jamie’s father. Desserts include sticky toffee pudding and the River Café Nemesis cake, a nod to the restaurant Jamie worked in when he was discovered as a TV chef. Enter through an impressive garden-like courtyard with twinkly lights into a dramatic, buzzing main room with comfortable booths, antique lamps and modern art and photography. Suppliers are name-checked, with meat from HG Walter, Cobble Lane Cured charcuterie and Coombeshead Farm bread. jamieolivercatherinest.com Piazza at the Royal Opera House — for modern British dishes Piazza at the Royal Opera House, the restaurant and terrace housed within one of London’s most iconic buildings – overlooking what was once the city’s most famous fruit, vegetable and flower market, Covent Garden – has relaunched with a modern makeover, coinciding with a reinvigorated menu offering seasonal, modern British dishes and aiming to be every bit as breathtaking as the performances taking place within. Dishes include starters such as London burrata with heritage beetroot, mains including Cornish cod with mussels and pumpkin, and sharing dishes such as Belted Galloway ox cheek pie with bone marrow mash. roh.org.uk Pizza Pilgrims — for pre-show pizza and beer With its green-and-white chequered plastic tablecloths, chessboard tile flooring and framed film posters hanging on the walls, Pizza Pilgrims feels like an American diner meets Italian pizzeria. Available for walk-ins only, it's a perfect spot to grab a pre-show pizza and beer in the heart of theatreland. The Naples-style pizza with blistering crust and sloppy centre is proved slowly, then cooked fast. Order 'You've Got Maiale' with prosciutto cotto, 'nduja, salsiccia and pepperoni, burrata, red onion and balsamic glaze if you fancy something indulgent. Or, go for 'The 8-Cheese', a ramped-up cheese feast with ricotta, buffalo mozzarella, fior di latte mozzarella, gorgonzola, parmesan, provola, pecorino and burrata, beautifully finished with pockets of smoked chilli jam. Or take it back to basics with the margherita, topped simply with tomato, fior di latte mozzarella, basil, parmesan and olive oil. For dessert, make a beeline for the hazelnut-flavoured espresso martini, shaken with Frangelico noisette liqueur and served with a chocolate and hazelnut rim. pizzapilgrims.co.uk Lahpet West End — for Burmese food in central London Lahpet West End is set over two floors, with an outdoor mezzanine overlooking a courtyard. Fragrant from cardamon and turmeric, and fresh with lemongrass and coriander, this is one of the few places in the UK to champion the food of Myanmar. The menu is split into small and large plates, bowls and sides which can all be shared or enjoyed as more conventional courses. Cocktails are twists on the classics and the kumquat spritz uplifted a glass of prosecco with orange bitters, lime leaf and kumquat juice. Different fritters are made out of split peas, shan tofu and sweetcorn, and come with a tamarind dip. The grilled chicken thigh and tiger prawn skewers were plump, smoky and worked well with the must-try tea leaf salad — a masterclass in crisp and fermented ingredient layering. The fish noodle soup was packed with seafood, and aubergines are ingeniously served whole and stuffed with chilli, coriander and crunchy fried shallots. We wanted to be left with the flavours of the savoury food so we didn't order anything sweet but the table next to us raved about the banana parfait with ginger crumble. lahpet.co.uk El Ta'Koy — for Hawaiian-style dining El Ta’Koy is the first UK opening from Cuban chef Luis Pous, who has restaurants of the same name in Miami and a pop-up in the Dominick Hotel in New York. Inspired by the tiki bars of Hawaii but with flavour influences that range from Asia to Latin America, El Ta’Koy provides an eclectic menu, with dishes such as ahi poke bowls, lamb barbacoa tacos, sea bass ceviche and pork chicharrón bao all sharing the same space. The menu is split into sharing, tacos and small plates, and there’s an inventive cocktail list that brings fresh updates to some tiki bar classics. el-takoy.com NoMad Restaurant — for New York meets London hot hotel dining Housed in the infamous Bow Street magistrates court, the room is dramatic with its high ceiling — bright or moody depending on time of day. A long comfortable banquette divides the space that’s alive with greenery and London buzz. NoMad’s menu has NYC touches (a nod to its sister hotel) and spans the sublime — oysters with cucumber ice, a delicate sea bream crudo with radishes and teeny picked strawberries; to sturdy (but refined) suckling pig; 30-day dry-aged rib-eye, and a brioche-stuffed chicken dish to share between two — to the sublime again: cherry ice cream with mascarpone within a crisp chocolate shell. The hefty wine list is best navigated with the help of the young, friendly wine team. Dinner bookings are like gold dust so go early or late, but go! thenomadhotel.com FishWorks, Catherine Street – for seafood Classic, maritime-inspired elegance defines the vibe at FishWorks’ third site with soft blue, grey and natural tones, white tiling and playful nautical hints – including knotted robe pendant lights and striking feature walls of copper fish scales. The restaurant’s central location in the heart of the West End makes it the perfect venue for enjoying a pre- or post-theatre seafood feast, from oysters and champagne at the marble-topped bar to lobster thermidor, whole Devon crab (perfectly sweet and plentiful on our visit) and fruit de mer platters. Dishes from the crowd-pleasing à la carte menu also impress. Brixham fish soup is rich and silky, with a pungently garlicky rouille; portly, hand-dived scallops – generously served four apiece – come in their shells swimming in garlic butter and topped with golden breadcrumbs. Dover sole is served on the bone and either grilled or à la meunière. We opt for the latter and it’s just as it should be, soft and flakingly tender. For drinks make a beeline for their roster of ‘maritime wines’ – all produced within 10 miles of the coast and with subtle saline notes designed to complement the fish and seafood on the menu. Finally, pick up more piscine treats at the in-house fishmonger before you leave, which, like the rest of the restaurant, offers responsibly sourced fish and seafood selected from Devon and Cornwall’s day boats and fish markets, plus homemade sauces to cook your catch with. fishworks.co.uk< 26 Grains, Neal's Yard – for porridge and seasonal dishes Hidden in Covent Garden’s courtyard haven, Neal’s Yard, 26 Grains has grown up from its porridge pop-up into the cosy site you see today. A crammed open-plan kitchen dominates most of the space. Shelves bend with the weight of pretty crockery; hard-working pots and pans hang, ready and waiting, above the hot gas stove; and any other free space is filled with jars of spices, grains and bags of flour. You can sit at the bar, facing chef-owner Alex Hely-Hutchinson as she beavers away, high up on smooth wooden bar stools, or at another counter facing the wall. Or there are a couple of communal tables with bench seating, inside and out (weather permitting), modestly decorated with dried flowers and twinkling candles. Seasonality drives the short-but-sweet menu. Visit in late spring, and you might find the likes of porridge with loquat and sweet cicely, whipped ricotta and toasted walnuts, or asparagus, chopped egg and hollandaise before midday. Lunch sees the likes of yellow dal with roasted cauliflower, aubergine pickle, garlic yogurt, almond dukkah and garlic flatbread, alongside fresh plates of courgette ribbons with herbs, nuts and pecorino. Ingredients are cooked with little fuss – meaning their bright, fresh flavours shine through – and thanks to Alex’s strong understanding of the importance of balance (whether that be crunch to counter softness, sourness to stand up to sweetness) everything delivers. 26grains.com La Gelatiera – for ice cream London’s La Gelatiera focuses on unique and intriguing flavour combinations, from blue cheese and walnut to basil and chilli. Each scoop is made with natural, seasonal ingredients and Jersey milk and cream, with the dairy ingredients pasteurised on site for optimum freshness. If you want to keep it classic you can order a scoop of creamy vanilla mananara, but the honey, rosemary and orange is recommended if you fancy something fresher with slightly savoury notes. lagelatiera.co.uk Click here for our favourite ice cream parlours across the country Temper, Mercer Walk – for crowd-pleasing barbecue and cocktails “I’m sure there are traditionalists out there who think I’m the devil himself, but I’d rather be knocked for trying something new than just roll out someone else’s recipes – I never saw the point in that,” says Neil Rankin, explaining his philosophy at Temper Covent Garden. This is a restaurant that likes to push the boundaries when it comes to Italian-rooted food, from the aged beef-fat tallow and pesto ravioli to the wood-fired ‘Detroit’ pizza with its topping of goat ragu, mozzarella, London-cured Cobble Lane pepperoni and San Marzano tomatoes. “I love traditional pizzas and pastas, but London is full of great places doing both – so I wanted to explore a different side to both and have a little fun. For me, food shouldn’t have restrictions and rules past deliciousness.” Other standout dishes at Temper Covent Garden include the crab okonomiyaki pizza with crab, fennel, langoustine mayo, hoisin, sesame and katsuobushi. Neil says: “Certain flavour profiles are almost set in stone, but there is always room within those borders to create something new. I like to see connections between cuisines because they’re all related and when you get an obvious crossover it’s fun to exploit that. Especially in London, which is a multicultural, mixed bag of cuisines.” temperrestaurant.com Click here to read about all our favourite pizza places in London Fabrique Bakery, Earlham Street – for cinnamon buns Whether cinnamon or cardamom is your bun of choice, Fabrique Bakery is a great place to enjoy a spot of fika. This Swedish stone-oven bakery has brought the concept to London, plying in-the-know citizens with squidgy buns and sourdough fresh from the oven. fabrique.co.uk Barbary, Neal's Yard – for counter-dining Specialising in grilling and baking from the Barbary Coast to Jerusalem, the menu at Barbary is divided into baking and grinding, land, sea and earth – and you’ve got a prime view over everything as it is cooked (seating is arranged around a horseshoe-breakfast bar facing the open galley kitchen). Order something from at least every section, and a special if you can manage it. Start with a Jerusalem bagel, a still-warm soft and chewy giant zero-shape, crusted with sesame seeds, and served with a pinch of aromatic za’atar. Roasted aubergine ‘sharabik’ is a smoking melting mouthful of tahini, sweet/sour molasses, toasted almonds and fresh raspberries. Pata negra neck is like no pork we’ve ever tasted – rich, buttery, more like a heavyweight Galician beef in its umami punch. Knafeh for pud, is crisp, savoury and sweet, with its pistachio crumble hiding angel noodles and melty cheese beneath, but it was the halva ice cream that stole our heart. Elegant, grown-up and yet very, very naughty in the best kind of way. thebarbary.co.uk/neals-yard Cora Pearl, Henrietta Street – for modern British small plates Cora Pearl brings modern British plates with Parisian accents to Covent Garden. Dishes are simple but impeccably executed, using beautiful ingredients. The kitchen’s way with vegetables especially impressed; creamy goat’s curd, in a generous pool of grassy olive oil, came with lovage and perfectly seasoned tomatoes. After this came soft, yielding agnolotti filled with more curd – cow’s this time – on a velvety pea purée, with perfectly pitched earthiness from summer truffle. Best of all was a deeply savoury and surprisingly rich main of courgettes – pickled, puréed and charred –with aubergine, black garlic (roasted whole and as a gel) and Ticklemore cheese. Dessert, as per the rest of the menu, was expertly crafted, our poached peach lusciously rich, paired with an intensely flavoured yet delicate earl grey sorbet. corapearl.co.uk Din Tai Fung, Henrietta Street – for dumplings A restaurant with a legacy for seriously good xiao long bao (steamed soup dumplings), Din Tai Fung evolved from half a Taiwanese store in the 70s to a global brand with a cult following and more than 150 restaurants in Asia, Australia and the US today. This outpost, its first branch in Europe, is on the edge of Covent Garden, on Henrietta Street. We’re here for the xiao long bao. The heavy, liquid-filled pouches of umami goodness are very special: the pork and crab version all the better for the rich, iodine tang of the shellfish encased within silky, supple dough. dintaifung-uk.com Shoryu Ramen – for quick ramen Part the noren (traditional Japanese fabric curtains) at Shoryu’s fifth ramen restaurant in buzzy Covent Garden and the friendly staff will shout “Irasshaimase!” (welcome in Japanese) from the white-tiled, sake-lined bar. Interiors are bold and play with angles – classic herringbone parquet timber flooring contrasts the brick walls and a curved wooden booth in one corner. Authentic Japanese touches filter all the way down to garlic cloves piled into pots on wooden tables so you can crush your own for extra welly. Shoryu specialises in food from Hakata, a district of Fukuoka city in Western Japan. Think Hakata buns – the local version of the pillowy steamed bao buns that are on everyone’s lips at the moment, and most importantly eight varieties of tonkotsu ramen. Shoryu gives this comforting and rich 12-hour pork bone broth a lighter, cleaner consistency with added miso and serves over thin, springy noodles. Plenty of Japanese lagers and craft beers line the bar, or opt for a sake flight. shoryuramen.com Check out more London restaurant guides here: Best restaurants in Marylebone Best restaurants in Mayfair Best restaurants in Fitzrovia Best restaurants near Oxford Street Best restaurants in Brixton Best restaurants in Notting Hill Best restaurants in Battersea Best restaurants in Shoreditch Best restaurants in Camden Best restaurants in Kings Cross Best restaurants in Soho Best restaurants in London Bridge Best restaurants in Hackney Best restaurants in Paddington
For walks with verdant views, picnics amongst the vines and bottles of local brut, check out our picks of the best UK vineyard stays
Looking for vineyard stays in the UK? Want to go on an English vineyard tour? The UK wine scene continues to grow and produce top quality bottles and there's plenty for visitors to experience by visiting a vineyard – from guided tours and tastings, to supper clubs or yoga classes surrounded by vines, unique accommodation with views of the grapes and even the chance to pick your own harvest. Read on for our picks of the best English and Welsh vineyard stays for a gourmet getaway. For more travel inspiration, check out the best UK spa hotels for food lovers and for self-catering inspiration, discover the best unique UK holiday cottages for foodies. Best English vineyard stays in the UK Tinwood Estate, Chichester Once home to a sprawling estate of iceberg lettuces, Tinwood is now known for some of the best award-winning sparkling wines that Sussex has to offer. Switching out lettuce for vines came in 2007 when owners Jody and Art Tukker took the helm of the family business and noticed the terroir of the farm was akin to parts of Champagne and Burgundy in France. Part of the charm of Tinwood is how visible Jody and Art still are in the day to day running of the estate. It’s not unusual for Jody to personally lead you through a vineyard and wine tasting tour (from £21) with family dogs, Bubbles and Fizz, zipping through the vines to say hello. What to drink: Perfectly situated just three miles from the sea, the flint and chalky grounds have led to careful cultivation of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, bottled up into a range of refreshingly crisp sparkling wines. Where to stay: If you are keen to make a weekend of it in the South Downs, Tinwood invites guests to stay on the estate in one of its eight lodges, all of which are unique in design and offer supreme comfort and panoramic views across the vineyard. Bikes are available for guests to use at their disposal to explore the grounds or further afield into the beautiful countryside. After a day of walking or wine tasting, relax in the wine barrel sauna or sink into a hot tub in your room. Breakfast hampers are delivered to your doorstep each morning so you can enjoy a tasty continental breakfast without having to leave the lodge. Check rates and availability at booking.com or tinwoodestate.com Sponsored by The Wine Flyer Sip, savour and explore with wines from across the world This summer, olive has partnered with The Wine Flyer to bring you The Vine — an exclusive selection of exceptional quality bottles, which also gives you access to exclusive Avios rewards so you can continue to collect wonderful memories. Whether it’s sipping a wine from one of your favourite English vineyards or discovering a new bottle, The Vine is the ultimate gift for wine lovers this summer. Shop The Vine by The Wine Flyer and olive for £159.99 Stars & Vines, Herefordshire Perched high on a south-facing hillside overlooking the River Lugg, this vineyard is ideally located for producing small-batch white wines and rosé. It forms part of the Broadfield Court Estate, encompassing a busy working farm as well as holiday cabins situated at the top of the vineyard with sweeping, uninterrupted views of rolling green Herefordshire countryside. A stay here wouldn’t be complete without a guided wine-tasting (£95) with Alexandra James, who co-owns the estate with her husband Mark. Her effervescent delivery matches the sparkling wine they produce using the traditional riddling method (rotating the bottle in stages at a tipped angle), which results in a standout product. What to drink: Broadfield Sparkling gives the best English sparkling wines a run for their money – and classic champagne, too – with a crisp, round almost biscuity quality that would go down easy at any celebration. The dry Reichensteiner is light and pleasantly spiky on the palate, best enjoyed with chicken or fish, while the Madeleine Angevine and Broadfield Special Reserve (blending two grape varieties) are rounder and fruitier, both made for easy drinking. If you book a hosted tasting, you can take away the opened bottles, otherwise the whites are reasonably priced at £10 each while the rosé is a relatively new addition, with bright zippy notes, at £25. Where to stay: Stars & Vines is located in the vineyard, comprising two beautifully appointed cabins (including outdoor hot tub). See our cabins guide for the full review. Check rates and availability at Stars & Vines. Balfour Winery, Kent Known for its world-class sparkling wines, Kent’s Balfour Winery is home to lush English vineyards, acres of ancient apple orchards and oak woodlands – perfect for nature and wine lovers alike. Located on the Hush Heath Estate, take a self-guided stroll or book for a full estate tour and tasting experience from £50-£70, where an expert will show you around the vineyards, learning about the secrets and history of Balfour as you stroll. This is followed by a tutored tasting of six crisp sparkling and still Balfour wines. The winery’s contemporary building, The View, offers sweeping views across the Kentish countryside, perfect for unwinding with a glass post-tasting. After, visit the winery shop where you’ll find plenty of sparkling and still wines, luxury hampers and gifts. Open all year round, Balfour Winery hosts social events throughout the year, such as its dining club music sessions, jazz evenings and yoga classes followed by food and wine tasting. What to eat: You may want to add a sharing platter to your tour booking to enjoy alongside the wines – think local Kentish charcuterie, seafood and cheese served with olives, quince jam, flatbread and crackers. If you’re visiting during the winter months, opt for the warm winter platter of local cheeses, baked camembert, house-made chutney and warm bread. A short drive away and you’ll find Balfour-owned The Tickled Trout, serving its signature fish dishes and hearty pub classics which reflect the best of Kentish produce. What to drink: A visit to Balfour is not complete without a taste of its flagship Balfour Brut Rosé 2018 – we’d also make a beeline for the Springfield Chardonnay 2018. Where to stay: The Tickled Trout is part of a collection of Kentish pubs and hotels selling wines from Balfour and Jake’s Beers and Ciders. Boutique rooms are simple, cosy and inviting, with exposed beams, shabby chic décor, modern bathroom fittings and sink-into beds. They also come kitted out with a large flat screen TV, Dualit coffee pod machine and a selection of tea from Joe’s Tea. Check rates and availability at booking.com Wraxall Vineyard, Somerset Tucked into the south-facing Mendip Hills is Wraxall, a 15-acre boutique vineyard with a 50-year history, elevated by contemporary architectural additions. Owners Lexa and David took on Wraxall in 2021 with a pragmatic commitment to their new role as custodians of the 5,000 vines, some of which are over 30 years old. What to eat: Venture up to The View@Wraxall wine bar and shop with floor-to-ceiling glass walls and huge terrace for taking in the expansive view. Wines are paired with seasonal dishes comprised of produce from Somerset and its bordering counties: Westcombe charcuterie, Mere trout, White Lake cheese and more. What to drink: The vineyard has five grape varieties planted to create their four keystone wines: Somerset Sparkling, Early Pinot Noir Rose, Bacchus and, their premium, Bacchus Reserve. Where to stay: Dating back to the 1870s, the old winery and hayloft have been tastefully converted into three rustically luxurious cottages with secluded terraces overlooking the vines. Historical meets luxurious modernity here with charred wood extensions melding into the countryside, and statement windows offering immense views. Each is furnished with carefully chosen pieces like steam-bent wooden lampshades and pre-loved antiques. Locality is celebrated everywhere, from toiletries by Bruton-based Commune in the bathrooms to the fresh pastries, berries, yogurt and more in the fridge as part of the optional breakfast hampers. Check rates and availability at wraxallvineyard.co.uk Nutbourne Vineyards, West Sussex Set in the West Sussex countryside, Nutbourne Vineyards has been in the Gladwin family since 1991. The family also owns a selection of restaurants in London where you'll find wines from the vineyard. Sustainability is at the core of the operation, from following biodiverse practices in the vineyard (hence wildflower meadows in amongst the vines) to efforts to reduce the carbon footprint in distribution and production. The vineyard trail is open all year round. Pick up an illustrated map and go on a self-guided tour around the different fields to discover the different grapes grown in each area and enjoy the views across the South Downs. The Cellar Door is open to pick up a bottle at the end of your visit. Guided tours and tastings are available on Saturdays from May to September. What to eat: Nutbourne offers a range of dining experiences at the vineyard throughout the year. You can prebook a picnic or generous charcuterie platter to enjoy with wine after touring the vineyard, or time your visit for a 'burger and bubbly' evening or Friday sundowners in the Nutty Bar throughout summer. Keep an eye out for special supper club events too. What to drink: The 'Nutty Blush' rosé made from Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir is a light pale pink hue, with floral notes and gentle berry acidity – ideal for summer sipping. Red wine fans will enjoy the Pinot Noir, with a portion of the wine aged in French oak to add depth. Bottles are all illustrated with Bridget Gladwin's paintings. Where to stay: Nearby Cattlestone Farm has a range of camping and glamping accommodation options to choose from. Pitch a tent in the open field or book a yurt and use the outdoor kitchen, complete with a pizza oven. You might even get to spot the goats, named Gin and Tonic. If you can, book the luxury Sunrise shepherd's hut. It's impressively spacious and cosy inside, with a comfy king-size bed. Wake up and open the double doors on to your wrap-around deck, with an outdoor roll-top bath and chairs to enjoy the views over peaceful rolling fields. The full-size en-suite shower room and fully equipped kitchen mean there’s everything you need for a quiet, relaxing break. Check rates and availability at cattlestone.uk Tillingham, East Sussex A few miles from the medieval port town of Rye in East Sussex, Tillingham is hidden away in 70 acres of hills, vineyards and woodlands, scattered with wandering pigs, cattle, sheep and chickens. It’s a serene, bucolic setting for the cutting-edge winery, hotel and dining destination. A renovated Victorian farmstead and neighbouring hop barn contain 11 bedrooms, a restaurant and bar, tasting room and shop, all replete with hip, upcycled furniture and fittings and dreamy views of the surrounding Sussex countryside. Tillingham offers daily tours and wine tastings (by appointment only), running to around 90 minutes, at £35pp. Start in the tasting room and move through the rest of the estate, from the modern winery, to the ancient oast house hosting Tillingham’s collection of qvevri (earthenware vessels buried in the ground and used to make orange wine) through to the idyllic rolling vineyards. Our tour guide took a deep-dive into Tillingham’s biodynamic, low-intervention approach to wine-making – wine nerds and aficionados will love the level of detail. You’re also given four generous pours of different wines. What to eat: Come for lunch, dinner or both. Set over two floors, downstairs is a casual wine bar with a small plates menu and an impressive wine and cocktail list (make a beeline for the silky fig leaf martini). Upstairs houses a more formal Michelin green-starred restaurant, where head chef Brendan Eades (formerly of Silo and the Conduit Club) has created the menu that showcases Tillingham’s homegrown produce – think veg from its walled garden, meat raised in its pastures and fish caught in nearby Rye. If you’re staying over, breakfast also takes place in the restaurant and features a set menu of sourdough with whey butter and homemade jam, granola and yogurt, local charcuterie and cheese. What to drink: Natural wine fans will love what’s on offer here. Try the delicate Col 21 with its grassy, citrussy tones, or P21 – highly gluggable, vibrant pink fizz with rhubarb and raspberry notes. Where to stay: The estate’s old hop barn has been converted into 11 bedrooms, all equipped with midcentury furnishings and earthy jewel colours, heavenly scented diffusers, modern art, Roberts Radios, Haeckels toiletries and welcome snacks of fudge and sherry in crystal glasses. We stayed in the expansive feature double room, which comes with a freestanding tub and huge window with sweeping views of the vines and countryside. Check rates and availability at tillingham.com Wiston Estate, West Sussex Set on a 6,000-acre estate in the South Downs, surrounded by rolling hills, Wiston Estate has been owned by the Goring family since 1743. When Pip, Harry Goring’s wife, saw the incredible space and chalk soil, she knew it would be perfect for a vineyard. They now have a fabulous restaurant on site, Chalk, and a secluded cottage available to rent if you want to make a weekend of it. The sparkling and still wines are award winning and, to get the best flavour, grapes are hand-picked, gently pressed and it’s organic at soil level – radishes and turnips are planted to nourish the soil naturally. Wine tours are £30, take place Wednesday to Sunday and include a generous tasting of four of the fabulous wines. What to eat: Chalk showcases local, seasonal produce, with much of it grown a stone’s throw away on the estate. Highlights include a starter of creamy stracciatella perfectly paired with fresh yellow courgette, basil oil and aubergine purée; and for main, melt-in-the-mouth plaice with a smoked butter sauce, crunchy apple and baby potatoes. To finish, order the warm almond tart topped with roasted white peaches served with a zingy lemon verbena ice cream. What to drink: Go sparkling with Wiston’s Brut NV, it’s fresh and lemony with notes of ripe orchard fruits, or, for a still wine, try the Blanc de Blanc NV, a lovely crisp, light, biscuity wine. Where to stay: On the estate, you’ll find a charming 20th-century cottage, The Pump House, formerly a water pumping station for the estate. It’s an idyllic setting, with sheep grazing right outside and views up to Chanctonbury Ring. Inside, it’s light and bright, with period features and luxurious interiors. It also has a secluded terrace – if the weather is nice, sit out and enjoy the bottle of Wiston Brut NV you’ll find chilling in the fridge on arrival. Sleeps four, from £195 per night, check availability at wistonestate.com Bolney Wine Estate, West Sussex Nestled in lushly green surrounds on the edge of the South Downs, the Bolney Estate is a long-time fixture on the English wine scene – founders Janet and Rodney Pratt first bought the land in 1972 for wine-making – raking in numerous plaudits over the past five decades. It makes both still and sparkling wines from five vineyards on the site, and there's also a sleek visitor centre complete with café and shop. Bolney offers a range of vineyard tours and tastings of varying length, starting from £20 for a Cellar Door Tasting. We tried the Sussex cheese and wine tasting, which included a tour of the winery and surrounding vineyard, and an accessible yet in-depth guided tasting of Bolney wines paired with delicious Sussex-made cheeses and charcuterie, all of which you can find in the shop (make a beeline for the superb Brighton Blue). See tour tickets at Virgin Experience Days (£133.50 for tour, tasting and lunch for 2). What to eat: The light and spacious Eighteen Acre Restaurant (if it’s sunny and warm, nab a table on the large balcony for gorgeous panoramic vineyard views) serves up classic mains and generous sharing boards that make the most of Sussex produce, much of it made just a few miles away – think tender local braised pork belly with Hispi cabbage and Bolney Lychgate red wine jus, or umami wild mushroom ragu with cured egg yolk. Charcuterie boards, sandwiches and cakes are served in the Bolney Café. What to drink: We loved the floral and elegant Bolney Bubbly as well as the passion fruit and elderflower-laced Lychgate Bacchus. English still red wines are something of a rarity but Bolney’s silky pinot noir, with delicate cherry notes, is an excellent example and well worth trying. Don’t just stop at wine, Bolney also makes its own gin and rosso vermouth. Where to stay: Nearby in the picture-postcard village of Cuckfield, Ockenden Manor is a beautifully preserved Elizabethan manor house with rooms ranging from grand oak-panelled suites to spacious rooms with four-poster beds and roll-top baths. There’s also a plush fine-dining restaurant and an award-winning modern spa just moments away from the main building. From £245 per night, check availability at booking.com Kingscote, West Sussex Kingscote has over 70 acres of vines and several different varieties of grape planted, all looked after organically sine 2019. Book a vineyard tour with seasonal lunch for £37, or with a cream tea for £31. The 90-minute tour is available Friday-Sundays and covers exploring the vineyard and the winery to understand the grape-to-glass process of production. Tours include tastings of white and sparkling wines. Look out for events such as bottomless brunches and summer barbecues. What to eat: There’s a tiny coffee shop serving Kingscote’s own coffee in the on-site wine and artisan food store. For a full meal, visit nearby Michelin-starred Gravetye Manor where a set three-course lunch is £80. What to drink: Try the Silvan Bacchus 2019: a creamy, lightly oaked white. Where to stay: You can now stay on the estate itself, with The Coach House 2-bedroom cottage hidden in the heart of the vineyard. It's surrounded by countryside for a rural retreat. Check rates and availability at From £108 per night including breakfast, check availability at booking.comkingscoteestate.com Denbies, Surrey Established in 1986, Denbies wine estate in Surrey offers indoor and outdoor winery tours. The former explores the working winery along with a cellar tasting, while the latter takes you on a 50-minute toy train tour of the vineyard, showing off panoramic views of the North Downs. If you want to give a tour as a gift, check tour vouchers at Red Letter Days (£115 for tour, tasting and lunch for 2) What to eat: A gallery restaurant looks over the 265-acre vineyard. Order Sussex confit pork belly with savoy cabbage, pan-fried halibut with roasted romanesco, or, on a Sunday, the Surrey Farm roast beef with rosemary-roasted potatoes. What to drink: A glass of the award-winning Cubitt Blanc de Noirs 2014, full-bodied and replete with notes of baked pear and rose petal. Where to stay: The on-site Denbies Vineyard Hotel has 17 en-suite rooms with views across the estate and surrounding hills. From £184 per night, check availability at booking.com Rathfinny Estate, East Sussex It may be young, but B-corp certified Rathfinny Estate in the South Downs is still one of Britain’s most beautiful wineries. Vines are separated by rows of wild flowers, there are glimpses of the Sussex heritage coast throughout, and visitors can stay overnight in a stylishly converted 1860s barn. What to eat: Take your pick from small plates and fresh cakes at al fresco wine bar The Hut, or book ahead for a table at the Michelin-recommended Tasting Room Restaurant for a regularly changing lunch menu that is designed to pair with Rathfinny wines. What to drink: Rathfinny's range of vintage Sussex sparkling wines includes a Classic Cuvée 2018, Blanc de Noirs 2016, Blanc de Blancs 2017 and Rosé Brut 2018. Where to stay: The Flint Barns is the on-site restaurant with rooms. Rooms are simple but have luxurious bathroom fixtures, quality bedsteads and access to an elegant communal living room. You can also go self-catered at The Rathfinny Cottage, which sleeps four. From £100 per night, check availability at booking.com. Sandridge Barton, Devon Sharpham Wine has been established for more than 40 years and is a serious producer of more than a dozen wines. It opened a brand-new visitor centre in summer 2022 at its new home, Sandridge Barton. Visitors to the site can enjoy guided tours (from £22, including tasting three wines and finishing with cheese sampling) as well as self-guided tasting flights presented in cute baskets (£15pp). What to eat: From July 2025, new restaurant ROAM opens on site, promising seasonal menus and locally-sourced ingredients, including meat freom the Sandridge Barton estate and vegetables from their own kitchen garden. What to drink: Sharpham Pinot Noir, crammed with wild strawberry, cherry and cranberry flavours. Where to stay: The Boathouse is a tranquil holiday cottage within the Sandridge Barton estate, sleeping up to four people. With views over the River Dart, it makes a relaxing base to discover local wildlife and is within stumbling distance back from the vineyard. Check availability for cottages at sykescottages.co.uk Gusbourne, Kent Just over an hour's drive from London, this Kent vineyard produces acclaimed sparkling and still wines and offers an array of high-end tours and tastings. A sparkling tasting flight is includes tastings of four wines for £30, or still wines for £40. For those that want to delve deeper into the world of wine, the estate tour includes vineyard visits before an extended tasting followed by three-course seasonal lunch with paired wines in the modern tasting room. What to eat: Snack boards of nibbles or sharing platters of local Kentish charcuterie, cheeses and more are available on the pergola outside the tasting room. What to drink: The 2021 Gusbourne Brut Reserve is full of orchard fruit flavours. Where to stay: Just a 20-minute drive away, chic coastal bolthole The Gallivant in Camber Sands is a blissful seaside escape with a relaxed Hamptons beach-house vibe. The hotel also offers exclusive wine experiences in partnership with Gusbourne. Of these the most impressive is the Ultimate English Wine Experience, which includes transport, a private tour of the vineyards, tank and barrel samplings, and tutored tastings of rare library and limited-edition wines. From £270 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Old Walls Vineyard, South Devon Well positioned for the many attractions of the glorious South Devon coast, Old Walls Vineyard offers tours, tastings and, if you time your visit for September, there’s even a chance to pick the grapes for the next vintage. What to eat: The Vineyard Bistro serves breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. Expect hearty dishes like Devon sausages and mash, and shepherd's pie tartlet with butternut squash purée, come drizzled in jus made from the vineyard's own red wine. What to drink: The best-selling wines are the Palace Red or White Priory Dry, although the Bishop’s Blush rosé is the way to go on a balmy summer’s evening. Where to stay: Available for short stays or the whole week, there are six two-bedroom luxury lodges overlooking the vineyard, each with a veranda and private BBQ area. From £192 per night, check availability at booking.com Three Choirs, Gloucestershire A lovely wine tasting break in the UK. Three Choirs near Newent is one of the longest established English vineyards. Most visitors book ahead for a guided tour with tastings and lunch, or you can do self-guided wine tastings with a vineyard walk and your choice of five wines. What to eat: Take a seat at the brasserie among lots of local regulars to tuck into tapas-style dishes including lamb meatballs in spicy tomato sauce, patatas bravas and griddled halloumi with toasted pistachios, honey and yuzu oil. What to drink: Blanc de Noirs 2016, a rich English sparkling wine. Where to stay: The Vineyard View Rooms have pretty views over the vines, but the nicest accommodation is in the glass-walled, timber-framed Vineyard Lodges with verandas. From £205 per night, check availability at Three Choirs Vineyards Llanerch Vineyard, Wales A farmhouse hotel, restaurant, cookery school and vineyard in South Wales. Guided tours and tastings show guests how Llanerch’s Cariad wines are made, and how the local terroir affects the taste of each vintage. The Wine Tasting Experience includes sampling three wines for £25pp, with some of the tasting taking place outdoors during summer. Cocktail classes or a luxury Wine Escape including a three course dinner or overnight stay are also available. What to eat: Roots Restaurant on-site offers a taste of the Welsh countryside. Celebrating seasonal produce grown, caught or reared in the region, try dishes such as curry spiced mushroom fricassee, roasted Welsh lamb cannon and rib, and pan-roasted stone bass with shellfish bisque in the fine-dining restaurant overlooking the vineyards. What to drink: Try the sweet Cariad sparkling brut. Where to stay: Self-described as a vineyard hotel, Llanerch has a range of rooms to choose from. These vary in size, from superior doubles to suites. Check rates and availability at booking.com Chapel Down, Kent One of the best-known English vineyards, Chapel Down expanded its site to a huge 325 acres of prime Kentish wine country. It’s open all year to visitors, and offers packages and gift experiences with tutored tastings (from £30pp). Look out for special events too, such as sunset yoga in the vines (with a wine tasting afterwards!), and orchestra or jazz concerts. What to eat: The Swan Restaurant offers a set daily menu of three courses for £48. Expect the likes of stone bass crudo with yogurt and pickled fennel, Romney Marsh lamb rump and Kentish rhubarb parfait. What to drink: Chapel Down's pinot noir rosé, full of red fruits. From £50 per person, check availability at Virgin Experience Days, Red Letter Days Oxney Estate, East Sussex An organic vineyard with holiday cottages in East Sussex. The estate produces organic sparkling and still wines using pinot noir, pinot meunier and seyval blanc and chardonnay grape varieties. Winery and tasting tours take place every Saturday at 11am and 3pm. Wander through the vines, learn about the estate’s approach to winemaking and end with a tasting. What to eat: Tuck into a post-tour picnic basket of local cheeses, charcuterie, bread and, of course, wine. What to drink: Try the toasty Oxney Classic. Where to stay: A farmhouse cottage sleeps 10, three barns sleep 14 between them, while cosy wooden shepherd’s huts complete with a double bed and fire-pit start from £100 per night. Check availability at oxneyestate.com Ryedale Vineyards, North Yorkshire There’s no visitor centre, shop or café at one of England’s most northerly commercial vineyards, rather a tiny winery set in a listed cowshed. Here Stuart Smith conducts tastings, once his wife Elizabeth has guided guests around the entirely unmechanised site. Tours and tastings take place between April and October. What to eat: Tours end with sampling wine and cider alongside local cheeses, plus you can add an optional pre-tour cream tea to your booking. What to drink: One of Ryedale’s award-winners, such as a bottle of Yorkshire’s Lass, a delicate dry white. Where to stay: In one of two cosily outfitted rooms in Ryedale's farmhouse, from £130 a night. Check availability at ryedalevineyards.co.uk Photo credits: Paul Winch-Furness, Ian Forsyth, Helen Dixon More travel guides Best European mountain escapes 10 unique walking holidays for food lovers Best health and wellness retreats for foodies Best country house hotels in the UK Best health and wellness retreats Best hotels in London Best UK boutique hotels Best hotels in the Cotswolds Best Cornwall hotels Best hotels in the Lake District Best London hotel bars to visit Best romantic hotels in the UK European hidden gems: hotels off the beaten track Best Paris hotels Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best restaurants with rooms in the UK Best Amsterdam hotels
Enjoy a slice of la dolce vita in London with our pick of regional Italian spots, from elegant Tuscan plates to perfect pasta and rustic Puglian dishes
Looking for an Italian restaurant in London that isn't your average pizza or spaghetti house? Using traditional recipes from regional Italy and the best imported ingredients, as well as, of course, great British produce, these Britalians are breaking the mould. If you’re inspired to try your hand at Italian cooking at home, explore our collection of pasta recipes for authentic flavours and creative twists. Has eating Italian in London got you in the mood to head to Italy? Discover Puglian cuisine, learn about Emilia Romagna's food and where to eat in Tuscany, then geek out on Italian coffee culture with our expert barista Celeste Wong's guide, including traditional rituals, how to order it and the perfect recipe for at-home brewing. Looking for something extra special in the UK? Discover the best chef's table experiences in the UK, the best dining experiences in London and check out the hottest new London restaurant openings. For more cuisines, check out the best Indian restaurants in London. Best Italian restaurants in London Ombra, Hackney – for casual Italian summer vibes This ramshackle restaurant perched above Regent’s Canal in Hackney is a riot of pop art posters, bottles of low-intervention wine and cookbooks, with a hatch behind the bar where Mitshel Ibrahim and his chefs pass out Italian dishes. On a sunny day, sit at contemporary wooden tables on the sun-soaked terrace and sip on a bitterly refreshing Cynar spritz or a zingy, thirst-quenching non-alcoholic aperitif. Start with delicate, ricotta-filled tempura courgette flowers and puffed gnocco fritto pillows topped with peppered wild boar mortadella. Homemade pasta comes in all shapes and sizes, including thick tonnarelli laces that cling to spicy ‘nduja and tubes of rigatoni to soak up vibrant pea and mint sauce. For dessert, the chocolate cream-filled choux buns are the perfect size for a satisfying sweet hit. ombrabar.restaurant Bocca di Lupo, Soho – for regional Italian dishes Bocca Di Lupo (along with its ice cream shop Gelupo that sits opposite) has been a Soho institution for regional Italian cooking and wine since its 2008 opening. Friendly and knowledgeable Italian staff will help you navigate the impressive seven sections (from fritti to grill) of the somehow still concise menu – a tour of Italian regions and specialities, the daily changing offering adapts with the seasons, too. Go sharing with six to seven plates between two, or go with a classic starter and main, with most dishes available in both small or larger sizes to suit your choice. Puffy sage and anchovy fritti make the perfect snack to kick off your meal with drinks – cocktails are also divided by region, with plenty of wines by the glass. Sea bream carpaccio doused in rosemary salt and blood orange is a highlight, along with mini fried flatbreads stuffed with fennel-studded finocchiona and soft squacquerone cheese. The chefs make strong use of seasonal ingredients – tender rabbit orzo and trofie with wild garlic pesto on our spring visit elevated familiar dishes. If it's on the menu, don't miss the silky pappardelle ragu either. Gelupo is across the street so don’t miss the ice creams in house for dessert – the prettiest pale pink rhubarb sorbet is almost vegetal in its intense flavour and not too sweet, while blood orange granita is a refreshing end to a decadent tour of Italy. boccadilupo.com Babbo, St John's Wood – for updated trattoria classics with finesse Tucked away in St John’s Wood, Babbo brings a refined yet welcoming modern touch to classic Italian trattoria fare. The space is elegant yet relaxed, striking the right balance between sophistication and comfort. Service is warm and efficient, making it the kind of place for both special occasions and relaxed midweek dinners. The meal begins with a generous bread basket – five types, all fresh and warm from the oven. Starters include perfectly cooked zucchini fritti and a clever take on veal tonnato, studded with hazelnuts for added depth and texture. The lobster spaghetti is rich with a deeply flavoured bisque base and vibrant tomato notes, while the grilled lamb chops arrive perfectly pink and full of smoky char. On the side, potatoes al forno steal the show, extra crunchy and moreish. As well as a full menu Babbo also serves pizza which, although we didn’t try them on this visit, looked signature thin and crisp. From the desserts, tiramisu is the standout – light, creamy and classic. Pair it with a strong espresso or a glass of vin santo to finish. With a well-balanced menu of updated Italian classics, Babbo offers some of the best trattoria-style cooking in London – refined, comforting and worth returning for. babborestaurant.co.uk Nipotina, Mayfair – for welcoming Italian cooking The latest from restaurateur Samyukta Nair (behind the Michelin-starred Jamavar, MiMi Mei Fair and KOYN), Nipotina is a more casual affair. Chef Somaia Hammad was brought up in Turin and brings Italian warmth to her unfussy, family-style cooking. The room is welcoming and cosy with banquette seating and a warm orangey glow. Start with a Nipotina claypot negroni, premixed and poured table-side from a large earthenware jug, with Amaro Santoni and earl grey bringing herbal notes. The menu is split classic style into cicchetti, antipasti, primi, secondi and pizza. A basket of rustly courgette fritti arrived with a tempura-style light crunch and a rich aïoli dip – deliciously moreish. From the antipasti, a tricolore tuna, sea bream and salmon carpaccio was spankingly fresh, and a fennel and aged pecorino salad came with a crunch from caramelised walnuts and a kick from Calabrian chillies. The pasta is house-made – try the mafalde, a rich creamy tomato, beef and veal ragu, or from the special seasonal truffle menu, tagliolini in a creamy parmesan sauce with a shaving of fresh Umbrian truffle added by the waiter. Standout puddings include a light and airy tiramisu enriched with gianduia (chocolate and hazelnut) and a rich almond-infused cheesecake with sour cherry, which had all the flavours of a bakewell tart and was quite ingenious. Wines are exclusively Italian and sourced from small regional independent producers. nipotinaristorante.com Pollini at Ladbroke hall, Ladbroke Grove – for imaginative Italian in grand, artistic surroundings An intuitive front of house team, dramatic interior and Italian classics with a twist make it worth a little trek off the beaten track (10 minutes from Ladbroke Grove station). The high-ceilinged room is dominated by a huge light fitting against a monochrome colour scheme. Chef Emanuele Pollini makes childhood favourite lasagne his own by recreating the flavours within ravioli complete with crispy shards to mimic the crunchy topping; seabass crudo is elevated with bottarga; a breaded, on the bone veal chop is doused in a rich chicken and parmesan sauce. A small carton of squacquerone – a delicate, soft cow’s cheese is served with figs, and gelato, particularly nocciola (hazelnut) is as good as you’d eat in Italy. ladbrokehall.com Azzurra, Chelsea – for a portal to southern Italy With its plump, stripy banquettes, seafood bar and striking trawler net sculpture, this elegant restaurant evokes memories of sunnier climes. It is your portal to southern Italy on Chelsea’s Sloane Street. Exec chef Andrea Mura’s menu pairs impeccable British seafood with gourmet Italian ingredients, not least in a dish of lorighittas, a twisted, hooped pasta from Andrea’s native Sardinia: “One of the few in the world that cannot be made by machinery.” It is served with octopus cooked in a Calabrian chilli and Datterini tomato sauce, finished with parsley emulsion and Sardinian olive oil. azzurrarestaurant.co.uk Sparrow Italia, Mayfair – for luxe modern Italian This plush modern Italian incorporates Med twists into its smart menu. Set over three floors with a secluded courtyard on the first, the menu presents luxe versions of classics including A5 wagyu carpaccio with pickled mushrooms and truffle, and lobster linguine with aqua pazza. sparrowitalia.com Paesan, Crouch End – for a multifarious Italian feast In Italy, food is all about family – about the whole clan, from eight to 80, sitting down and sharing a spread together. It might be in London’s Crouch End, but Paesan has managed to stay true to that ethos. You can mix and match its antipasti, small plates, fresh pasta and meats and fresh fish from the monthly specials to create a multifarious feast to share with the family. The menu is traditional Italian as you would find in the countryside and streets of Italy, from Trentino in the north to Sicily in the south. Sit at the bar and watch the kitchen in action, dine in the bright first floor dining area or out on the eye-catching heated terrace. paesanlondon.com Trullo, Highbury – for seasonally focussed Italian-inspired dishes Older sister to Borough Market’s Padella, Trullo serves perfect pasta, antipasti and larger charcoal grill dishes in a romantic yet relaxed environment. Upstairs, wooden tables – simply laid with white paper tablecloths and flickering tea lights – are huddled together, while downstairs, dark booths are perfect for a longer, laid-back dinner. The menu changes twice daily, depending on seasonal produce, but if there’s two of you we’d recommend a couple of antipasti, a couple of plates of pasta and one larger oven dish. Rich beef shin ragu coats slippery ribbons of pappardelle, while sweet squash ravioli gets a richness from the olive oil. If it’s on the menu, order Padella’s iconic pici cacio e pepe for a cheesy hit. Meat and fish are simply cooked over coals, served with the likes of soft polenta and salsa verde or baby beetroot. As with the food, wines change regularly but there are always a few available by the glass. The natural Puglia Miro is bursting with ripe cherries, or sip on a punchy coffee negroni as a nightcap. trullorestaurant.com Lina Stores, various locations – for authentic pasta and aperitivi Lina Stores is a pasta, antipasti and aperitivi bar with white and mint striped awning that makes the restaurants (with locations now in Soho, King's Cross, The City and Marylebone) easily identifiable. Pops of its signature pastels continue inside – leather bar stools at open kitchen counters, shelves heaving with Italian liqueurs to make punchy negronis and spritzes, and striped aprons on the chefs who slice pink ribbons of prosciutto, plate up antipasti and toss handmade pasta in pans of sauce. Head chef Masha Rener has kept the menu simple and seemingly authentic, with every ingredient hailing directly from Italy. The antipasti menu includes crisp radicchio salad with anchovy dressing, baby artichoke hearts and a slow-cooked porchetta sandwich, served Roman-style, in a crisp ciabatta roll. We’d return for this alone, but it’s quite filling for a starter so share, if you must. Fresh pasta, handmade an hour before service, is given pride of place, served as the main event rather than traditional pre-main primi. Bright yellow strands of pappardelle soak up light, gamey rabbit ragu, perfectly formed gnocchi is brightened up with popping peas, and a vibrant mint and courgette mixture is stuffed into little tortellini parcels. Pici alla norcina is the highlight, though – springy worms of pasta in a creamy, nutty sauce of porcini mushroom and Norcia sausage (often celebrated as the best in Italy). Creamy lemon sorbet or scoops of homemade gelato refreshes after so many comforting carbs, or treat yourself to crunchy Sicilian cannoli piped with fluffy ricotta and dipped in chopped pistachios. linastores.co.uk Luca, Clerkenwell – for high-end Italian Luca presents Clerkenwell diners with modern Italian food, cooked using British ingredients and served by waiters who know the food inside out. Referred to by chef Isaac as ‘British ingredients through an Italian lens’, the menu includes Cornish lobster taglierini, canon of hebridean lamb with trombetta courgettes and Hereford beef tartare cured in nebbiolo. The restaurant’s design has been inspired by 1950s Italy, with a blue and sage colour scheme and an impressive semi-open kitchen flanked by floor-to-ceiling glass walls – while they eat diners can watch the chefs at work in the pasta-making room. There’s also a bar, open all day, serving espresso and pastries in the morning, salads and cured meats at lunchtime, and cocktails (making the most of homemade limoncello) alongside shared plates in the evening. luca.restaurant Murano, Mayfair – for elegant fine dining After a short closure and 15th anniversary celebration redesign, Angela Hartnett’s Michelin-starred contemporary Italian restaurant has reopened. George Ormond has taken the reigns as head chef and worked with Angela to create a selection of new regional Italian dishes. Fold out the green and pink menus to build your own three-to-six course menu (or go at lunchtime for the great-value set lunch, £55 for three courses). Chef’s appetisers from the kitchen (gorgonzola and pickled walnut choux bun, spindly grissini, sun-dried tomato-studded focaccia) make an extra treat best enjoyed with a classic negroni. Menu highlights include agnolotti parcels filled with provolone and puréed smoked potato, chicken tortellini scooped up from a clear, nourishing broth and a unique play on the classic tonnata using fried monkfish slices on a fennel salad lifted with veal jus. For dessert, try the chocolate marquise’s elegant layers topped with a PX sherry reduction or the signature silky Amalfi lemon tart in a delicate puff pastry casing. Supreme Italian wine pairings, unpretentious yet informed service and a hushed living room atmosphere make this a truly elegant Italian dining experience. muranolondon.com Macellaio RC, various locations – for Italian steak The tagline of this collection of six Italian restaurants is ‘the butcher’s theatre’. Genoan restaurateur Roberto Costa’s original South Kensington branch is a homely ‘butcher with tables’, while the newest glamorous Soho outpost focuses on the theatre butchery. Executive chef Lello Favuzzi’s menu starts with lardo that melts onto sourdough with honey and hazelnuts, smoked, aged tuna bresaola with heirloom tomatoes and Tropea onions, and the signature steak tartare. The latter is excitingly prepared tableside on a smart wooden trolley – bowls of chopped Fassona steak, capers, onions, gherkins and anchovies are mixed with cognac, Worcestershire sauce and mustard, with an egg yolk balanced on top. Homemade tortelli parcels are filled with burrata and ricotta and doused in a sage and hazelnut butter, with five year-aged balsamic vinegar drizzled on top. The main event is the grill. House-butchered T-bones, ribeyes and sirlions are dry-aged for seven to nine weeks, and there’s a choice between grass-fed British, lean Fassona from Piedmont and a Bavarian breed that boasts intensely flavoured fat. Pair with a Seven Hills negroni, a bottle from the exceptional Italian wine list and finish with a tiramisu, built at the table, or homemade hazelnut gelato. macellaiorc.com Maremma, Brixton – for Tuscan neighbourhood vibes The small space of this Tuscan bistro has a distinctly neighbourhood vibe – vases of dried flowers sit on tables crammed in alongside stools at the pale sage counter overlooking the busy open kitchen and aperitif-bottle-lined bar. Large, almost life-size illustrations of wild boar and octopus on exposed brick walls reflect dishes on the menu – the former in a hefty cut of pepper-crusted cutlet and belly with balsamic figs and wispy Italian spinach, and also combined with Tuscan herbs and fennel seeds to make a ragu tossed through glistening folds of homemade pappardelle. The menu is dedicated to produce from the Maremma region of south-west Tuscany. Highlights of our visit were a starter of octopus neatly arranged in a bowl with crushed new potatoes, all doused in Tuscan olive oil and lemon juice. Another was the tortelli Maremmani – yolk-yellow pasta parcels stuffed with creamy ricotta, spinach and a hint of nutmeg, topped with crispy sage. Skate wing wasn’t on the menu on our visit, but we’ve heard from reliable sources it’s another standout. Wines all come from Maremma – the brancaleta sangiovese/malvasia nera blend provides an elegant, aromatic accompaniment to the boar dishes, while chardonnay from the same vineyard is intense enough to hold up to most options on the menu. The cocktail menu also showcases spirits from the region – Seven Hills gin, infused with juniper and herbs from Maremma, is used in the negroni and a rosemary old fashioned, while the Mi-To (Milano-Torino) cocktail mixes a new Maremma-born vermouth with Corsican grapefruit aperitif, Pampelle. maremmarestaurant.com Theo's, Camberwell – for Neapolitan pizza Head to Theo’s in Camberwell for the best sourdough pizza in London. Its wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas are the best in South London. The Scotch Bonnet nduja is the menu must-order, as the spiced sausage is made across the road by the team at the Camberwell Arms pub. Save room for a serving of Theo’s outrageously good tiramisu, and order a negroni bianco or espresso martini to finish. If you don’t fancy sitting in, Theo’s do delivery, so it’s up there with the best takeaway pizza in London, too. Check out more of the best pizza restaurants in London in our epic guide. Ave Mario, Covent Garden — for lavish, camp interiors and superior Italian ingredients Anyone who loved the OTT charms of Gloria and Circo Populare will find much to enjoy in Big Mamma’s Covent Garden branch. Loosely inspired by Florence, it's a sprawling affair with almost 300 seats spread over three floors of kitschy, Instagrammable interiors, from the ground-floor dining room complete with soaring ceilings, green-and-white striped walls and a towering bar stocked with 3,500 bottles, to a louche, mirrored, 70s-style basement bar complete with an open kitchen where you can watch pizzaiolos work their magic. There’s campy Catholic iconography scattered throughout, pictures of Sopranos characters in the loos, pretty vegetable-shaped crockery and a 60cm marbled stracciatella ice-cream cake on the menu to rival Gloria’s famed supersized lemon meringue pie. It’s boisterously fun and undoubtedly a place you go to soak up the atmosphere, but the food — mostly crowdpleasing spins on classics — also impresses, from luscious carbonara ravioli filed with oozy egg yolk and flakes of guanciale, to the pillowiest of pizzas decadently topped with salty pearls of Venetian caviar. Ingredients, sourced from some 180 artisan suppliers, are top drawer — think 36-month-old prosciutto; dreamily creamy Puglian burrata; silky mortadella; and liberal clouds of umami aged parmesan. coventgarden.london/ave-mario Palazzo, Crystal Palace — for a shiny Italian bar and diner Palazzo is an Italian neighbourhood bar and diner from the team behind Made of Dough. The sleek 70s-inspired space comes decked with smart wooden tables, countertop seating and a shiny record library, with an extensive vinyl collection set for late-night weekends and DJ parties. Drinks form part of the strong apéritif offering: sip on Italian cocktails such as a bicicletta, negroni or amaro spritz to kick things off. There's also an array of Italian wines ranging from Piedmont to Sicily, plus draught beer from Brick Brewery and The Drop Project. Expect a shortlist of Made of Dough’s signature chewy, blistered, Neapolitan-style sourdough pizza, best served with a trio of basil aïoli, spicy paprika and kimchi mayo dips. There’s a considered menu of sophisticated small plates using quality Italian ingredients, from burrata and panzanella, to zucchini fritti and anchovy bread, or go big with pork and veal meatballs and chicken Milanese with lemon and aïoli. Finish off with everyone’s favourite Italian pud – tiramisu – or a few scoops of artisan Hackney gelato. barpalazzo.com Sessions Arts Club, Farringdon — for Italian inspired small plates in arty surroundings If you like to experiment, share and discover new ingredients and flavours, this is your dream menu. Chef Florence knight (formerly of Polpo) has created something very unique, with Italian-inspired small plates and mains that read very simply but are put together in such a way as to surprise and delight. Friggitelli (charred green peppers served with puréed cannellini beans lightened with citrus) and hearty pork belly, fennel and orange packs a punch. Our stand-out dishes were a fragrant, rich saffron and tomato tart, and eel, potato, crème fraîche and roe — a slab of thinly layered potato that’s both soft and crunchy, with the fish adding a subtle saltiness. The room is an easy place to lose an afternoon or evening with a high ceiling, distressed walls, comfortable booths and a mezzanine floor with outdoor bar. sessionsartsclub.com Brutto, Farringdon — for Tuscan-Florentine dishes for sharing Refreshingly, this Tuscan-Florentine restaurant isn't one that values style over substance. Opened by the late Russell Norman, the relaxed, no-frills interior is reminiscent of more old-school Italian establishments, with red gingham tablecloths, walls lined with framed pictures and a wine menu that's modestly stapled together, emphasising good Tuscan bottles. The menu is particularly good for sharing, with four small pasta plates that include a delicate rabbit pappardelle, and tagliatelle with a nostalgically rich, meaty ragu-style sauce. Start with the deep-fried dough ball 'cuddles' antipasti, paired well with thin slices of salty prosciutto and creamy stracchino. The mains, or secondi, are quite beef-focused, with a blackboard of perfectly cooked T-bone steaks to be ordered per 100g, and a hearty Tuscan beef shin stew. Alternatively, you can try the juicy pork and fennel sausages with lentils and a big dollop of dijon mustard. Leave room for a slice of the light, layered apple tart, or the 'ugly but good' cookies — these crisp hazelnut meringues originate from Tuscany, served here with smooth vanilla ice cream. Despite 'brutto' translating to 'ugly' in Italian, the food here is far from it. It's simple, but it proves that good food doesn't have to be stylish. msha.ke/brutto Manteca, Shoreditch — for nose-to-tail cooking and hand-rolled pasta Chefs Chris Leach and David Carter opened Manteca's first permanent home on Curtain Road, Shoreditch to rave reviews. Inspired by Chris's travels through Italy, the focus is on nose-to-tail Italian cooking, with hand-rolled pasta, house-made salami, seasonal vegetables and wood-fired breads at the forefront. Expect hearty, knockout dishes including puffy clam flatbreads, a rich pig skin ragu, and rigatoni with a silky kale sauce served in a light, airy setting. There's a carefully honed wine menu with classic bottles and bolder 'down the rabbit hole' wines, and an amari-focussed cocktail list making the most of the Italian herbal liqueur, featuring not-to-be-missed house-made amaro. mantecarestaurant.co.uk Rudy’s Neapolitan Pizza, Soho — for impeccable pizzas in laidback surroundings Rudy’s outpost in Soho makes a worthy addition to London’s pizza scene. Start with an aperitivo of Campari and soda, which arrives premixed in a dinky little bottle alongside a bowl of salted crisps for snacking, before moving onto generous sharing platters loaded with deli treats and house-baked bread. Pizza toppings are crowd-pleasing, from parmigiana with roasted aubergine to spicy calabrese with ‘nduja sausage and cinghiale with wild boar salami. Our lavishly topped capricciosa with creamy fior de latte, prosciutto, mushrooms, Kalamata olives and artichoke hearts ticked all the boxes, but it was the base that really impressed — well-flavoured and pillowy while still being satisfyingly chewy. All of Rudy’s pizzas — baked daily using 24-hour fermented dough — are made by trained and accredited pizzaiolos. rudyspizza.co.uk/soho/ The Italian Greyhound, Marylebone — for simply executed dishes in a relaxed setting Sipping a sgroppino with passion fruit sorbet in the sunshine-flooded room of the Italian Greyhound, it’s hard to believe you’re a stone’s throw from the traffic-heavy Edgware Road. The ambience is calming: light wood, long walk-in bar, plants and patio windows that open onto the villagey vibe of Seymour Place. Sit by the open windows and soak up the breeze on a summer's day. The menu uses British produce, simply executed, divided into five sections: small plates, all day pizzette (light and thin with toppings ranging from courgette to mortadella and pistachio pesto), pasta, larger plates (think aubergine parmigiana, chicken Milanese and sea bream) and dolci. From the small plates, crispy tiny pea arancini are a highlight – a clever combination of traditional British flavours into an Italian classic. Pasta prices are on the higher end of the scale (but understandable given the location) and portions are generous. Spaghetti is silky, coated with shreds of Cornish crab, fennel seeds, chilli and lemon. Orecchiette with lamb bolognese is deeply comforting and loaded with Parmesan cheese. If you have room left, ensure you try the pillowy custard bombolini with dark chocolate sauce, perfect for sharing. theitaliangreyhound.co.uk Padella, Borough Market – for perfect pasta Tim Siadatan and Jordan Frieda, the duo behind Trullo in Highbury, opened Padella in Borough Market in March 2016. Padella’s menu is made up of eight pasta dishes taken from Trullo’s ‘greatest hits’, using fresh pasta rolled in the window of the restaurant just before service. A small, no-bookings restaurant where queues are a given, Padella was born of a desire to make fresh handmade pasta accessible to everybody. The open kitchen combines traditional Italian techniques and quality British produce to make dishes like pappardelle and eight-hour beef shin ragu, tagliarini with brown shrimps, green and yellow courgette, and its now famous pici cacio e pepe (get the recipe here). Jordan says: “We wanted to create a restaurant that was true to the principles we admired in the great British restaurants – rigorous seasonality with a focus on using British producers wherever possible. We make everything in-house – rolling pasta, baking our bread, churning our ice cream – every day, and do it at a price that isn’t exclusive.” padella.co Bancone, Covent Garden – for Italian counter dining The tagline for this Italian restaurant, just minutes from Trafalgar Square, might be “pasta, prosecco, espresso” – but it’s those first little mouthfuls of arancini from the antipasti that you’ll be raving about, come home time. The arancini arrive as three golden nuggets. Their crisp armour gives way to the lightest rice, still just al dente, no stodge, and bags of flavour – first (on our visit) earthy mushroom, next creamy dolcelatte, and finally saffron with a fiery heart of ’nduja. It’s hard not to be mesmerised by the rest of the menu, though, particularly if you sit at the marble-topped, brass-trimmed bar, overlooking the chefs at work. Fresh pasta, which is made and rolled upstairs, is flash-boiled before being tossed with any of the 10 sauces on offer. Chitarra – guitar-string like spaghetti – is slicked with cacio e pepe and topped with a crisp, peppered cheese wafer. Oxtail ragu, slow cooked for 10 hours until sticky and sweet, clings to bouncy folds of pappardelle. Simple, quality ingredients – the bedrock of good Italian cookery – are shown proper respect. Hispi cabbage is charred and dressed with red chilli, garlic and 2017 Planeta olive oil. Chicory and beans are held up with sweet and sour onions, and a deeply savoury anchovy crumb. Classic negronis with the right amount of chunky ice and a twist of orange are just as well received as the prosecco, and don’t leave without a palate-cleansing, retro-tastic Amalfi lemon syllabub (recipe below) and granita served in its original host. Holiday vibes for the win. bancone.co.uk Fiume, Battersea – for smart southern Italian dishes Wind around the edge of the Thames, ducking under the colourful ‘Power’ archway as you do, and in the shadow of Battersea Power Station is where you’ll find Fiume. Translating as river, the contemporary Italian sits in front of a water feature that reflects the golden hue of the recently renovated chimneys towering above. Inside, the restaurant’s décor reflects the menu – it’s smart but relaxed. There’s counter dining and high chairs by the bar for quick plates of cicchetti (fried calamari to crostini draped with mozzarella, anchovies and roasted peppers) and homemade breads from the wood-fired pizza oven. The menu proper focusses on the recipes of southern Italy, or Mezzogiorno, jumping around the eight different regions. Think wobbly burrata and slow-cooked octopus to start, with classic mains such as aubergine parmigiana and seafood fregola, along with a handmade pasta menu. fiume-restaurant.co.uk Angelina, Dalston – for Italian-Japanese fusion Simple yet refined Italian-Japanese cooking is the focus at Angelina, and their dining concept is boldly simple: just a five-course sharing menu for £38. The menu starts with elegant fish and seafood crudités: Sicilian red prawns, dusted with roasted rice powder and drizzled with olive oil, has a lusciously soft, almost creamy texture, while rich tuna belly is pepped up by a zingy blood orange dressing. Sea bream with mirin is salty-fresh. Elsewhere, a risotto with unagi (eel), burnt soy butter and dashi is perfectly executed, the rice creamy but retaining just the right amount of bite, the fish butter-soft, while onglet steak with charred radicchio is all bitter, umami intensity. angelina.london Pastaio, Soho – for casual pasta dinners Chef Stevie Parle’s venture brings handmade pasta and affordable wines to Soho. A cavernous Tom Dixon-designed space on Ganton Street that’s all high ceilings and exposed fittings, with a huge, colourful mural (by Rob Lowe of Supermundane) that saves the room from feeling coldly industrial. From the pasta section, malloreddus (tiny, ridged Sardinian gnocchi) came dressed with a slow-cooked sausage sauce that was elegantly light and flavourful, while agnoli stuffed with grouse, pork and rabbit was a deceptively simple dish that made good use of prime autumn produce. Be sure to order the agnoli – a triumph of pared-back cooking; perfectly cooked and crafted pasta, a generous game filling and a seriously moreish sage-butter sauce. The drinks offering at Pastaio is short and affordable, ranging from prosecco and Aperol slushies to wines from lesser-known Italian growers, many priced by the glass. We tried a velvety, smoky refosco – a spot-on recommendation from our friendly, knowledgeable waiter. pastaio.co.uk Osteria Romana, Knightsbridge – for Roman cooking A small, softly lit space, the décor at Osteria Romano keeps it simple with plain wooden flooring and furniture, earth-hued walls and little copper lamps that shine inviting pools of light over each table. Pots of vivid green basil adorn each table and a wall-to-wall wine rack provides a focal point at one end of the room. The effect is intimate, unpretentious but still tastefully sleek – it is Knightsbridge, after all. Four fat, handmade gnocchi were the stars of our antipasti. Pleasingly fluffy, they came drizzled with a decadent, moreish black truffle and pecorino sauce. Well-made rice croquettes, with a crisp exterior and meaty ragu filling, were complemented by a tangy tomato velouté. Spaghetti carbonara, that iconic Roman dish, was note perfect, with a silky properly emulsified sauce. Tonnarelli with artichokes and red prawns combined juicy crustacean with dried shards of artichokes and a bisque-like sauce. Lamb chops – served with ultra-smooth mashed potatoes and crispy leeks – were pink, tender and deeply flavoured. The concise wine list keeps it almost entirely Italian, of course. We tried a subtly smoky sangiovese and montepulciano blend, and a fruity ripasso. osteriaromana.co.uk Emilia's, St Katherines Dock – for coastal Italian vibes “Many people have said the view from our restaurant resembles the coast of southern Italy,” says Andrew Macleod, owner of Emilia’s in St Katharine Docks. After developing the concept, Andrew joined forces with pasta chef Simone Stagnitto to create the menus for this rustic pasta bar. The pasta is made daily on site and the concise menu features just seven pasta dishes. Recipes include a northern Italian-style carbonara and four-hour slow-cooked béchamel bolognese. emiliaspasta.com Sorella, Clapham – for neighbourhood vibes Having lived, worked and even celebrated their wedding on the Amalfi Coast, it had always been a dream of Robin and Sarah Gill (of The Dairy in Clapham) to open an Italian restaurant. After a trip to Italy, co-owner Dean Parker – who worked in one of Robin and Sarah’s favourite restaurants while out there – fell in love with the idea, too. And so, The Dairy’s sibling restaurant, Sorella (meaning ‘sister’), was born in early 2018. The menu starts with cicchetti and antipasti such as fried olives, fennel salumi and truffle arancini. Primi includes cuttlefish linguine with black olives and peppers, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and asparagus, and a seasonal ragu. Secondi are served using whole cuts from rare breeds or fish from Cornwall. For dolci, there’s Pump Street chocolate with fennel gelato, a seasonal panna cotta and a malted barley affogato with vodka milk. Drinks are a big focus, with the group’s Dan Joines creating a homemade vermouth. “The vermouth is an essential ingredient in the cocktails we serve,” says Dan. “Making our own has been a passion project for the past three years and now it’s complete. In summer it’s light and fresh, but we also make a deeper, sweeter one (great in a negroni) for winter.” sorellarestaurant.co.uk Check out more London restaurant guides here: Best restaurants in Chelsea Best restaurants in Marylebone Best restaurants in Kings Cross Best restaurants in Fitzrovia Best restaurants near Oxford Street Best restaurants in Brixton Best restaurants in Notting Hill Best restaurants in Battersea Best restaurants in Shoreditch Best restaurants in Camden Best restaurants in Covent Garden Best restaurants in Soho Best restaurants in London Bridge Best restaurants in Hackney Best restaurants in Paddington Photograph credits: Jade Nina Sarkhel (Maremma), Safia Shakarchi (Tiella)
Whether you’re a fan of slippery udon noodles, creamy tonkotsu ramens or super-fresh sushi, the UK has plenty of exciting Japanese restaurants to satisfy your cravings
Looking for the best ramen in London? Want to find sushi near you? We've found the best Japanese restaurants in London and the UK. After, check out our podcast with chef and author Tim Anderson on the 10 things you need to know about Japanese izakaya. Now find out our favourite informal dining spots in the UK and the best new restaurants in London. Next find out about hokkaido cuisine. Best Japanese restaurants in London UMU, Mayfair Opening in 2004 and thriving 20 years later is testament to UMU’s unique offering –inspired by Kyoto cuisine, using British ingredients such as fish sourced from Cornwall and Welsh lamb. Behind a discreet doorway in Mayfair’s Bruton Place, the dark wood-panelled room is lit to emphasise the sushi masters at work at the counter, carving, chopping and grating fresh wasabi. There is more theatre on the plate with premium ingredients like high-grade wagyu served à la minute, which arrives smoking at the table; the salty-sweet and glistening eel kabayaki, and a cute dessert: Charamisu Mayfair garden Japanese seasonal tiramisu, with a mini watering can to sprinkle over sake. Select a wine or sake pairing for the full experience. umurestaurant.com Akira Back, Mayfair Akira Back, well known in the USA for his playful approach to Japanese cuisine, is influenced by both his travels and Korean heritage. Dishes are made to share and flavours are bold. Try the signature tuna sashimi pizza, rich with truffle oil; mini tacos filled with wagyu bulgogi; rock shrimp with creamy gochujang; black miso cod; and finish with sushi rolls like Hot Mess – sashimi poke, crab tempura and spicy ponzu aïoli. A lighter starter of yellowtail jalapeño with citrussy yuzu, is a highlight. On the inventive wine list try Smiley NV, a South African chenin blanc blend which pairs well with sushi. The triple-height room, with one wall dominated by spectacular artwork by Akira’s mother, and glass ceiling, makes it light-filled at lunch, twinkling at night. mandarinoriental.com/en/london/mayfair/dine/akira-back Humo, St George Street Sit at the counter – effectively the pass – for prime interaction with Colombian chef Miller Prada, whose cooking combines his South American roots with the skills and passion he gained for Japanese techniques and ingredients working with mentor Endo Kazutoshi. Fire cooking and dry ageing of fish and meat are at the heart of the restaurant. The laid-back team will introduce you to new discoveries which might include eight-day-aged yellowtail with citrus sauce and the more surprising addition of a Castillo coffee sauce from Miller’s family farm; subtle smoky flavours in everything from the refreshing house salad of smoked Cornish Agria potatoes, wild rocket, Tokyo turnips, miso to Orkney scallop in 20-year-old oaked rum and 31-day-aged Cornish lamb in beetroot sauce. Thrillingly unique. humolondon.com Roka, Charlotte Street The original Charlotte Street branch of this elegant Japanese restaurant is centred around an open kitchen, home to a large, coal-fired robata grill. Sit at the striking wraparound counter, or on a table beneath jewel-like jars of homemade ferments, to taste a succession of contemporary robatayaki dishes. We suggest selecting something from each of the menu’s sections (with a sparkling yuzu and cherry-laced sakura cocktail in hand while choosing). Snacks, salads and tempura include chunky beef and ginger gyozas, crisp prawn and shisho leaf tempura and silky aubergine salad topped with fluttering, umami-rich katsuobushi flakes. Roka's signature tokusen sushi comes next – yellowtail tartare laced with chilli, served in a pot over ice with a wooden spoon to scoop onto puffed rice crackers. From the robata grill, yuzu miso-coated black cod served in a dried hoba (magnolia) leaf is so delicate it melts at a slight touch, while a heartier rack of baby back pork ribs has a tingling edge courtesy of sansho pepper. To mark its 20th anniversary, the restaurant has curated a £20 set menu, signature dishes and special events to celebrate. rokarestaurant.com Koya, Soho Duck through the curtains at Koya Bar and you’re transported straight to Tokyo. A wooden counter spans the narrow space: punters huddle over bowls of springy udon noodles on one side, while chefs add eggs to breakfast bowls, and slip noodles, prawn tempura, tofu and miso pork into hot broth on the other. koyabar.co.uk INÉ by Taku, Hampstead Sister restaurant to Mayfair’s Taku, this airy, minimalist Hampstead restaurant offers both omakase (14 fish-focussed dishes, plus a dessert) and a la carte. At the eight-seat counter, sushi master chef Meng’s omakase features premium ingredients, including a delicate mussel broth, buttery otoro (tuna belly) with caviar, Carlingford oyster with wasabi cream and ikura (roe), smoked salmon tofu purée, and sashimi, tempura and maki. Head chef Andrew Lim’s contemporary al a carte dishes include a wagyu beef katsu sando and grilled Iberico. While the cooking is at an elevated level, the vibe – with booths and a young team – is refreshingly relaxed. inebytaku.com Clap, Knightsbridge This lively Knightsbridge restaurant is the place to be if you like entertainment in the form of DJs and people-watching with dinner. An international set, familiar with its branches in Beirut, Dubai and Riyadh, laps up the bustle of the open kitchen and sushi bar, which turns out modern Japanese dishes with luxurious touches, such as truffle edamame, a surprising shiitake and sesame salad, hamachi sashimi, otoro and wagyu nigiri, black cod miso and kimchi-spiked lamb rack. Desserts are big on drama, too – the natsu platter is stacked with exotic fruit, matcha cheesecake and mochi. A rooftop bar has views over the city and fascinating light fittings that are made for Instagram. claprestaurant.com Humble Chicken, Soho Humble Chicken’ name gets straight to the point. This intimate Soho restaurant, the first from chef Angelo Sato — ormerly head chef of Michelin-starred Restaurant Story — is all about grilling every part of the bird (from gizzard to thighs) over binchotan charcoal (a high-quality charcoal used in Japanese cooking). Start with a selection of refined snacks, including a delicate, umami miso foie gras tart and creamy freshly made tofu with tangy kimchi, before diving into the yakitori menu with gusto. Skewers — smoky, juicy, delicious — arrive speedily from the open kitchen, with highlights including meatball with salty tare sauce and egg yolk for dipping, rib with spicy miso and chives, and (our favourite) absurdly tender chicken oysters with smoked garlic and ponzu. Larger plates include crispy chicken leg with rice, and save room for dainty desserts such as deconstructed strawberry cheesecake, and purin, a Japanese dessert akin to a creme caramel, and just as delicious. There’s Asahi on draft and a small selection of sakes, wines and Japanese whiskies, but it’s the cocktails that deserve most attention on the drinks list, including a tangily fruity lychee martini; a silky Nikka whisky, coconut milk and oolong highball, and a sultry miso and coffee old fashioned. humblechickenuk.com Dinings, Marylebone They may have larger branches in swanky Knightsbridge and Tel Aviv, but the compact original site of Dinings on Harcourt Street continues to impress those lucky enough to secure a place (bookings are still essential). Opened a decade ago by Masaki Sugisaki and Keiji Fuku (ex-Nobu), Dinings focuses on izakaya-style cooking, incorporating authentic Japanese and European cuisines to create delicious small plates in a relaxed atmosphere. The kitchen creates seasonal sushi and sashimi dishes using spankingly fresh seafood from Scottish and Cornish day boats. Try spicy chilli garlic Scottish salmon and fresh coriander miso soup; ‘suzuki’ sea bass topped with yuzu-infused daikon pickle, and hand-dived Scottish scallops with Cornish sea salt and lemon. dinings.co.uk Sushi Kanesaka, Mayfair Its discreet location in the exclusive 45 Park Lane hotel, part of the Dorchester Group, signals the world-class standard of this sushi offering, where exquisite ingredients, preparation and cooking are matched by a front of house team who are on hand to explain the traditions and micro-seasonality of each of the 20 courses. During both two-hour sittings each evening, diners can see the knife skills of chef Shinji Kanesaka or head chef Hirotaka Wada close up, as he and a small team prepare a series of sushi plates, including yariika (squid) with beluga caviar, otoro (fatty tuna) and botan ebi (prawn). The lightly vinegared, salted rice is the perfect temperature and texture to highlight the individual flavours of the fish. Other highlights include kobe beef with wasabi (freshly grated) and tempura of Scottish lobster with a rich Japanese tartare sauce. A sake pairing is also offered. The room is sleek and minimalist, with just nine seats along the main counter. dorchestercollection.com/sushi-kanesaka NIJŪ, Mayfair Endo Kazutoshi, arguably London’s most esteemed sushi master, is behind this Mayfair Japanese grill, with exec chef Chris Golding overseeing the menu day to day. Careful sourcing, luxe ingredients and well-honed kitchen skills create a unique menu inspired by ‘Katei Ryōri’: homecooked, seasonal dishes, some – like dover sole, asparagus and nori butter – served tableside. Wagyu, that most highly-prized beef, is sourced from Japan and England, cooked simply over Japanese charcoal and offered with fresh wasabi and yuzu salsa verde. Sashimi includes indulgent cuts like otoro (fatty tuna) served classic style or with a contemporary NIJŪ twist – ‘aburi’ (seared) with caviar. Vegetables are treated with equal care, from grilled aubergine with white sesame dressing to spicy spinach with sobacha (buckwheat tea). A sushi counter and glass panel revealing all the kitchen action add to the buzzy atmosphere. The basement Nipperkin bar uses British ingredients, some grown and distilled on site in its hyper-seasonal cocktail list. nijulondon.com Freakscene Sushi and Robata, Balham Chef Scott Hallsworth and Aussie comedian Adam Hills have opened the second outpost of this lively izakaya-style restaurant that’s big on tunes with your tacos, tempura and tataki. Small and neon-lit, its punchy flavours and potent cocktails are great for a gang, while sashimi omakase and a considered wine list with a nod to Scott’s western Australian heritage make it equally suitable as a serious destination or date spot. Edamame are scorched and dressed with sake, lemon and butter; salt-grilled mackerel mochi toasts are a must-order, lemon sole with spicy shiso ponzu speaks to the kitchen’s experience and skills. Extra bonus? Gluten-free and vegan menus. freakscenerestaurants.com Juno at Los Mochis, Notting Hill There are just six coveted seats (and two sittings a night) in a curtained-off corner of Los Mochis in Notting Hill, where chefs Leonard Tanyag and head sushi chef Han serve and explain each of 15 light courses, with helpful hints on how to eat each dish (with your fingers, a spoon or chopsticks). A selection of nigiri features carefully sourced fish, such as kinmedai (snapper), hamachi and blue fin tuna. King crab with ponzu butter and uni (sea urchin) are highlights. There are Mexican touches, too, such as an intense lime aïoli with sea bream and wildflowers, and the dessert options fuse Japanese and Italian ideas. Sake and wine pairings are offered alongside agave and cocktails. losmochis.co.uk/nh/juno-omakase Roketsu, Marylebone Daisuke Hayashi, trained at Yoshihiro Murata’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant Kikunoi, learned the principles of kaiseki from one of its masters and has been delighting Londoners looking for an authentic taste of Japanese fine dining since opening Roketsu in 2021. With a more relaxed à la carte experience in mind, Daisuke opened the Bo-Sen wine and dining room downstairs in 2023. With just eight covers, the experience is intimate, the wooden panelling and low mid-century furniture creating an atmosphere that’s just as refined as the minimalist counter-dining space on the ground floor. Daisuke’s handling of seasonal produce remains respectful, balancing flavours and ingredients precisely. Light dishes crafted to be enjoyed alongside extensive wine and sake lists include vegetable takiawase of simmered vegetables with dashi jelly, tsukuri of the day comprising four kinds of beautifully cut sashimi and flavour-packed homemade curry. Plating is artful and every detail of the Bo-Sen space has been considered, from the elegant furnishings in rich colours to the bespoke Kyoto crockery. roketsu.co.uk Mayha, Marylebone This Japanese omakase features just 11 covers – guests sit around a curved wood and stone bar, behind which chef Jurek Wasio sends out plate after meticulously crafted plate in a daily-changing tasting menu that, in keeping with the omakase tradition, is entirely the preserve of the chef. As a guest, all you need to do is sit back and enjoy the ensuing feast. Start with a sparkling sake and a round of raw dishes – blue fin tuna belly tartare on sourdough topped with a briny mound of Polish caviar is a particular highlight. Meat dishes include wagyu tenderloin dusted in shaved summer truffle, as luscious and deeply umami as you might expect. The sushi sequence of the meal is the highlight – a stream of plump nigiri that showcase the impeccable quality of the produce used at Mayha: creamy scallop; lightly seared, butter-soft salmon belly; delicately sweet langoustine; dry-aged blue fin tenderloin; the list goes on. Fragrant cups of bamboo dashi and lobster miso, and a palate-cleansing rhubarb sorbet punctuate the meal. It all ends simply, but effectively, with a scoop of chocolate ice cream in a grassy pool of Sicilian olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Head downstairs before or after dinner to Mayha’s intimate six-seater bar, which offers its own five-course omakase meal paired with cocktails. mayhalondon.com Temaki, Brixton Temaki, standing for, Te (hand), Maki (roll) has an intimate yet lively feel to it, hosting only 18 covers at a time indoors. The open kitchen brings a sense of connection between the diner and the skilled, humorous chef (Shaulan Steenson) who multitasks, eloquently chatting through the menu while crafting the Temaki. There’s a prevailing joyful atmosphere as the waiting staff are brimming with enthusiasm and knowledgeable about the menu and even more excited to explain about the drinks. We were recommended the Sumi clear Junmai sake which was light with a savoury finish, followed by a sansho peppercorn gin which was topped with filtered lime juice — a sweet yet tangy dream. On to the hand rolls, there are eight to choose from, made fresh to order, alongside meticulously plated small plates. We loved the yellowtail sashimi, which was fresh and tangi from the ponzu with chillies sourced locally from the markets in Brixton. A standout was akami tuna temaki with a nikiri soy filling — not to be missed. If you’re in south west London, or are in the market for a new, fun experience to dive into an interactive Japanese cuisine, Temaki is the place to visit. temaki.co.uk/ SUMI, Notting Hill The bright and airy space, with pale wood panelling, large windows and outdoor decking, perfectly suits the calm practice of SUMI’s sushi chefs. Watch them prepare stunning courses of fresh nigiri on bouncy and neat rice mounds, and wrap wafer-thin sheets of nori seaweed round the likes of minced red tuna and fermented mooli, or diced scallop with delicate purple hanahojiso flowers to make signature temaki rolls. Menu highlights are the seaweed salad coated in a creamy tahini dressing with toasted almonds, and a ceviche showcasing seasonal sustainable fish among a picture-perfect plate of peppers, corianders, marigold and a zingy yuzu dressing. Superb seared Japanese A4 wagyu is served with charred puntarelle and a jug of yuzu onion sauce. Finish by gliding a bespoke wooden spoon through the matcha mille cake’s thin layers of vibrant green, matcha-infused double cream and ultra-fine crepes. Don’t skip cocktails — the popular kawaii ne is a delicate mix of sake, local Portobello gin, lychee and yuzu, while the smoky boulevardier offers a much punchier blend of peaty whisky, umeshu plum sake, Antica Formula and Campari. sushisumi.com Junsei, Marylebone Aman Lakhiani trained in the finest Japanese restaurants in Tokyo and Barcelona before opening his own yakitori venture in London. Junsei means ‘pure’ in Japanese, reflected in the restaurant’s cooking techniques — delicate chicken skewers are grilled over binchō-tan oak white coal, coated simply in salt or the house-aged tare sauce. Choose the omakase chef’s table experience to watch the chefs spoon house tare sauce from the pot and hammer charcoal to create sparks. Start with a spoon of barley miso-topped cherry tomato, followed by the chef’s selection of delicate yakitori — chicken breast wrapped in a shiso leaf with fermented plum paste, yuzu-laced tempura mushrooms stuffed with chicken, and umami-rich tsukune meatball skewers served with an egg yolk and soy dipping sauce. Donabe ginger rice bowls take 45 minutes to prepare, being cooked from scratch on the stove in Japanese ceramic pots, then topped with the likes of sea bream, burnt orange and sesame seeds. The Gin2 cocktail is a must-try for its unique combination of refreshing gin granita capped with a warm gin and ginger-infused meringue-like foam. Or the Bincho Sour is a twist on the classic with Akashi whisky and plum syrup. junsei.co.uk Koya Ko, Hackney Tucked away off buzzing Broadway Market, Koya’s casual, friendly little sister follows suit from noodle bars found in Japan’s train stations, with a tachi-gui (standing-while-dining) element alongside seats for customers to slurp bowls of springy udon and tuck into donburi rice bowls. Pop in for the famous English/Japanese breakfast of hot udon topped with egg, bacon and butter soy mushrooms, or traditional neba-neba breakfast rice bowl with fermented soy beans, pickled seaweed and okra and onsen tamago egg. After midday, there’s crunchy chicken kara-age with spring onion sauce and steaming bowls of udon in dashi broth. Try new menu additions, such as slow-braised beef shin on hot noodles slathered in chilli oil, the KO salad of cold udon with pickled aubergine, and plenty of mini-don rice bowls to enjoy on the go. koya.co.uk The Fuji Grill at Beaverbrook Town House, Chelsea Take a counter seat to see sushi master Goemon Ishikawa at work as he prepares an exquisite omakase (chef's choice) menu at this plush new Chelsea hotel. Around 20 bite-sized dishes are prepared with skill, precision and imagination and offered with short introductions and suggested wine pairings. From the first dish of red bream with pickled kohlrabi through to a dinky dessert of matcha cake with poached pear, there are intriguing combinations of Japanese and British ingredients. Highlights are hamachi with smoked aubergine purée and caviar; texturally interesting squid and cauliflower; home-smoked salmon and British finger lime; and six-day dry-aged akami zuke, chu toro and o toro (tuna). The meal closes with a 'cheese' course of ankimo (monkish liver) with chutney and fennel cracker and a bowl of delicate clear broth. While the entrance to the restaurant is through the lively hotel bar, the restaurant itself is quieter and soothingly art deco in style with walls featuring pictures of Mount Fuji. There are two sittings, 6pm and 8.30pm, with counter space for just six guests. beaverbrooktownhouse.co.uk Endo at the Rotunda, White City Restaurant critic Giles Coren called his meal at Endo “probably the most perfect meal I have eaten in a restaurant in more than 20 years as a critic” – high praise indeed for this Japanese restaurant on the eighth floor of the Helios building, the old BBC television centre in White City. Alongside hot dishes of lobster shabu shabu (hotpot) and grilled wagyu beef, there is first-class tempura (seafood and vegetable) and nigiri such as spider crab with truffle and three types of tuna with ‘signature’ seaweed. endoatrotunda.com Robata, Soho Located on Old Compton Street in the heart of Soho, Sonny Huang’s Robata restaurant specialises in robata grill cooking, a Japanese tradition that was first introduced by ancient fishermen who took boxes of hot coals with them on their boats to cook the food that they gathered from their day’s catch. The menu is broken down into five sections – small plates, raw and sushi, bao buns, robata skewers and robata large – and diners are encouraged to share dishes. Stand-out plates include miso aubergine topped with pickled shimiji mushroom and red chilli; sweet soy glaze and spring onion pork belly skewers; and Chilean wagyu smoked and cooked over burning hay. Robata also serves an extensive selection of sake and sake-based cocktails including the Umetini (Roku gin, umeshu plum sake and orange bitters). Head chef Charles Lee worked in a number of Michelin-starred restaurants during his career before arriving at Robata, and his menu shows the diversity of Japan’s food, highlighting traditional cooking techniques and contemporary flavours, along with using high-end British produce. robata.co.uk Akira at Japan House, Kensington The eponymous modern restaurant from acclaimed chef Shimizu Akira is founded on his trinity of essential Japanese cooking principles – food, tableware and presentation. Guests at the restaurant on Kensington High Street are immersed in authentic ‘omotenashi’ hospitality as chefs prepare dishes with seasonal ingredients over blistering robata flames alongside a wide selection of immaculately crafted sashimi and sushi. The dining experience is further enhanced with bespoke ceramics and glassware personally sourced by Akira from artisan makers across Japan. japanhouselondon.uk Tonkotsu, London (various) and Birmingham With 10 sites across London (and one at Birmingham Selfridges), Tonkotsu’s modern Japanese ramen bars serve homemade noodles, broths, gyoza and sides, as well as a small but high-quality selection of sake, cocktails and craft beer. Using mid-century noodle-making machines imported from Japan, the chefs make three different types of ramen noodle – tokyo, tsukemen and tonkotsu – and each has been developed to enhance different stocks. Diners can watch the noodles being made fresh each day inside the Haggerston restaurant, while in another archway across the canal, chefs make the stocks, gyozas and sides from scratch. Check out dishes such as prawn and baby squid popcorn, miso mushroom ramen and crispy duck hiyashi (noodle salad) with ponzu dressing. tonkotsu.co.uk Takahashi, London SW1 (Wimbledon) Ex-Nobu chef Nobuhisa Takahashi’s eponymous Wimbledon restaurant can only accommodate five tables, which he says is “to ensure that our customers enjoy the peak temperatures, flavours and textures of our food”. The food at Takahashi marries Japanese tradition with the Mediterranean diet to create modern and healthy dishes high on flavour. “In each dish, we look to achieve a harmonious balance of healthy values, beautiful presentations and clean flavours,” says co-owner Yuko Takahashi, who points to the super-fresh sashimi and sushi selections as well as signature dishes like scallop carpaccio with yuzu salsa, and crispy pork belly with aubergine miso. takahashi-restaurant.co.uk Best Japanese restaurants in the UK Hana Matsuri, Leeds Described by Vice magazine as “Britain’s best sushi restaurant”, this modest, bookings-only outfit on Meanwood Road in Leeds showcases the exemplary knife skills of sushi chef Kaoru Nakamura. Although there is an à la carte menu and a set-lunch option, most people go for the omakase menu, where the diners leave it up to the chef to cook for them depending on that day’s ingredients. Hana Matsuri only uses fresh fish sourced mainly from Cornwall and the menu changes daily depending on availability. sushibarhanamatsuri.co.uk Eatchu, Bristol What started out as a street-food stall in Bristol is now a permanent space in the city’s bustling St Nicks market. Run by husband and wife Guy and Victoria Siddall, Eatchu specialises in gyoza, or “happy little dumplings” as they refer to them. The gyoza are made on the premises using seasonal ingredients and free-range meat from a local butcher. Meaty versions include pork with Kenko mayo, tonkatsu sauce and furikake or chicken with rayu oil and spicy sea salt. Veggie options include triple mushroom with mustard dressing, nori and pickled radish. Guy and Victoria also run gyoza masterclasses and have a mobile gazebo that pops up at weddings, corporate catering events and craft-beer festivals. eatchu.co.uk Kushi-ya, Nottingham Chefs Simon Carlin and Tom Clay started Kushi-ya (which translates to ‘skewer shop’) as monthly supper clubs around Nottingham but the concept turned into a bricks-and-mortar restaurant in October 2018. Kushi-ya is all about Japanese-inspired skewers, small plates and snacks, with most of the menu featuring dishes cooked over charcoal on a yakitori grill. All the meat is free-range and ethically sourced and regional, where possible. Order local favourites such as beef with black garlic mustard and tsukune (chicken meatball) with egg yolk and tare sauce or ‘tiramiso’, a Japanese twist on the classic Italian dessert. Wash it all down with sake, whisky or Japanese-influenced cocktails such as the yuzu margarita or miso dark and stormy. kushi-ya.co.uk Edamame, Oxford Peter Galpin and his Japanese wife, Mieko, set up Edamame in 1998 with the intention of creating an inviting, hole-in-the-wall eatery for guests to enjoy authentic Japanese home cooking. The couple offers three different menus that rotate according to a fixed weekly schedule so that they can serve a wide variety of dishes using the freshest ingredients. There are no reservations and tables are shared to help keep the prices low and the seating efficient in what is a tiny restaurant. Edamame offers a lunch-only menu Wednesday to Sunday lunchtimes, a sushi-only menu on Thursday early evenings, and a dinner-only menu on Friday and Saturday early evenings. Peter says: “We are delighted that for the last three years the Japanese government has awarded us with exclusive recognition as being Oxford’s only truly authentic Japanese eatery.” edamame.co.uk Seven Lucky Gods, Bristol The latest Bristol venture for local restaurant group Hyde & Co (who also own The Milk Thistle, Pata Negra, Hyde & Co, Bambalan and The Ox), the aptly named Seven Lucky Gods has exploded onto Bristol's food scene since opening at Wapping Wharf in May 2019. Taking inspiration from the izakaya bars of Tokyo, Seven Lucky Gods serves up sushi, fusion-style small plates and cocktails in a series of converted shipping containers. Menu favourites include the iberico pork katsu sando, chicken katsu curry arancini and the signature Korean fried chicken. 7luckygods.com Yuzu, Manchester Yui Nagami of Manchester’s Yuzu restaurant says the reason it stands out from the crowd is the freshness and the fact everything is made from scratch. “The uniqueness of our food is that we make everything on site, including the soy sauce-based sauce that comes with all the sashimi dishes, the teriyaki sauce and the ponzu that accompanies the karaage. The fish is delivered every day and meat is marinated at least several hours before serving – the prep is the most important part of our operation.” As well as claiming to serve the freshest sashimi in the city, dishes such as teriyaki salmon served over Japanese rice in a donburi bowl and traditional chicken katsu has helped Yuzu retain its place in the 2020 edition of The Good Food Guide. yuzumanchester.co.uk Japan Street Food, Paisley Recently expanded from 12 to 50 covers due to its growing popularity, this Japanese restaurant and sushi centre in Paisley town centre concentrates on the sort of staple hot dishes traditionally served by street-food vendors in Japan, as well as wide selection of sushi and sashimi. Try the beef garlic teriyaki and pumpkin katsu. japanstreetfood.co.uk Kyoto Kitchen, Winchester This Michelin-rated restaurant is run by experienced chef Shunji Irokawa, who qualified as a cook in 1972. Opened in 2012, Kyoto Kitchen is an intimate family-run restaurant that has received wide recognition for its high-level, diverse Japanese cooking. There is a focus on sushi and sashimi, but the broad menu covers both traditional and modern bases in its delivery of little plates, tempuras and grills. The Winchester Roll includes locally smoked local trout wrapped in wasabi leaf and served with fresh wasabi grown locally in the first wasabi farm in Europe. kyotokitchen.co.uk Harajuku Kitchen, Edinburgh In the heart of Edinburgh – but named after a district of Tokyo – Harajuku Kitchen specialises in traditional family recipes cooked by owner-chef Kaori Simpson. This compact modern Japanese bistro serves tempura, noodle dishes, sushi and sashimi, as well as main courses such as tempura aubergine curry; tofu teriyaki and pork gyoza dumplings. harajukukitchen.co.uk Bincho Yakitori, Brighton Based on the back-street bars and izakayas of late-night Tokyo, Brighton’s Bincho Yakitori is a no-frills Japanese yakitori joint serving an ever-changing menu. Dishes include sea bream tempura served with a sauce made of wasabi and local seaweed, and grilled iberico pork kushiyaki skewers. Leave room for the miso chocolate tart with houjicha (roasted green tea) ice cream. binchoyakitori.com Words by Mark Taylor, Christine Hayes and Alex Crossley Check out more London restaurant guides here: Best restaurants in Marylebone Best restaurants in Mayfair Best restaurants in Fitzrovia Best restaurants near Oxford Street Best restaurants in Brixton Best restaurants in Notting Hill Best restaurants in Shoreditch Best restaurants in Camden Best restaurants in Covent Garden Best restaurants in Soho Best restaurants in London Bridge Best restaurants in Hackney Best restaurants in Paddington
Cotswolds best restaurants: where to eat and drink
Amidst the picturesque villages and rolling green countryside of the Cotswolds are plenty of excellent places to eat and drink – read on for Mark Taylor's picks of the best restaurants in the Cotswolds
Looking for restaurants in the Cotswolds? Want to know where to eat whilst exploring this pretty region? Mark Taylor shares his insider tips for the best restaurants, bakeries and bars, plus a recommendation of one of the best villages to add to your Cotswolds itinerary, and places to visit on day trips around the countryside. We've added some top picks of where to stay whilst you visit the Cotswolds too. For more inspiration, check out our full guide to the best Cotswolds hotels. For more exciting restaurants and weekend ideas for food lovers, check out our best UK city breaks, best pubs with rooms and our foodie day trips from London by train. Discover our picks of the best restaurants in Bath, best restaurants in Oxford, best restaurants in York and best restaurants in Cambridge. Jump to: olive's top 10 best restaurants in the Cotswolds Foodie neighbourhood spotlight: Moreton-in-Marsh Where to stay in the Cotswolds Foodie day trips around the Cotswolds olive's top 10 best places to eat and drink in the Cotswolds We've included insider information about what to order where below, plus plenty more places to visit, but for those who want a quick insight into our favourite spots in the region, here are Mark's picks. For al fresco dining: The Potting Shed For a real taste of the area: The Bull For simple classics with a view: The Woolpack For authentic tapas: Lola & Co For French favourites: Fleur de Lys For an impeccable wine list: Martin & Malthouse For beers by the water: Warehouse 4 For local produce: Broadway Deli For award-winning bakes: Knead Bakery Cafe For a meal in a unique setting: Worton Kitchen Garden Foodie town spotlight: Moreton-in-Marsh In the Evenlode Valley, within the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the market town of Moreton-in-Marsh makes an ideal base for a ‘foodie’ trip. A short hop from popular villages and towns such as Daylesford (famous for its organic farm, shop and restaurant), Chipping Norton and Stow-on-the-Wold, it benefits from good public transport links including direct trains to London. The main street is lined with handsome stone buildings dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, many of them shops, tea rooms, pubs and places to eat. There are plenty of places to stay the night, including the White Hart Royal, a former manor house where King Charles I took refuge during the Civil War. The main public building is the Redesdale Hall which holds antiques and craft fairs, and there’s a weekly Tuesday street market. When it comes to eating out, Henne is highly regarded by the locals with its inventive and sustainably driven menu using hyper-local produce. If it’s artisan bread and patisserie you’re after, Otis & Belle bakery is exceptional and The Cotswold Cheese Company sells countless local cheeses. A short drive out of town is the Michelin-starred Royal Oak at Whatcote. Where to stay in the Cotswolds The Rectory Hotel, Crudwell From £170 per night, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com An 18th century former rectory in the heart of picturesque Crudwell, The Rectory Hotel is all about intimate dinners, fireside cocktails and country walks followed by hearty food. Originally the rectory to the village church, this ancient stone building oozes relaxed country manor. The 18 rooms are all unique, with the first floor hosting more spacious rooms, and the second floor benefitting from exposed oak beams. The team at The Rectory Hotel has freshened up the interiors to preserve original features (little fireplaces, sash windows, panelled walls) and antiques, but add a checklist of little hotel luxuries (Robert’s Radios, tea and coffee from local roasters). Beds are like huge armchairs, with velvet curved headboards in mustard yellow and forest green. The breakfast spread, taken in The Glasshouse overlooking the gardens, is impressive. Graze on homemade granola, fresh fruits, mini pastries and ham and cheese before taking your pick from the made-to-order hot menu (French toast, avocado on sourdough, eggs any style) and topping up from the DIY bloody mary station. From £170 per night, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Thyme, Southrop From £400 per night, check availability at booking.com Set deep in the rolling Cotswolds countryside, in the quiet village of Southrop, Thyme is exactly what you want from a rural escape. A 150-acre estate, it is home to a cookery school, pub, spa, holiday cottages, cocktail bar and restaurant while the 15th century manor house at its heart (and various outlying barns) is now a boutique hotel. Bedrooms are spread across Southrop, with some in the main lodge itself, some in a farmhouse and some in separate cottages. They range in grandeur from Cosy to Divine with each one named after a flower or plant – a green-fingered theme that the interiors also reflect. Design-wise, it's refined country glamour. So velvet scalloped headboards, furry rugs, botanical wallpaper and, in some cases, free-standing baths with views across the fields. The on-site cookery school runs classes throughout the year, so try your hand at Indian vegan recipes; cocktails, cordials and infusions, or rustic Italian feasts. There’s also a kitchen garden to admire, and a tranquil spa that uses natural ingredients in its treatments. From £400 per night, check availability at booking.com olive's top 10 best restaurants in the Cotswolds The Potting Shed, Crudwell For al fresco dining Originally a Victorian pub called The Plough, The Potting Shed is located in the chocolate box village of Crudwell, a short drive from junction 17 of the M4. Once a favoured romantic bolthole for Prince William and Kate Middleton before their engagement, this cosy country pub sticks to hearty gastropub classics, with much of the produce coming from the abundant vegetable patch in the pub’s two-acre garden which also has apple trees and lawns. thepottingshedpub.com The Bull, Charlbury For a real taste of the area A posh pub-with-rooms, The Bull was rebooted by owners Phil Winser and James Gummer, who are also behind Notting Hill’s The Pelican. The Cotswold-born duo focus on traditional village pub hospitality and using local produce, working directly with farms and growers including a community-supported agriculture project providing fruit and vegetables. In the 50-cover dining room, order seasonal, unpretentious dishes like mackerel and broad beans followed by pork chop and apple. thebullcharlbury.com The Woolpack, Slad For simple classics with a view Best known as the pub where Cider with Rosie author Laurie Lee was a regular, The Woolpack has a unique atmosphere. Overlooking the beautiful Slad Valley (pack your hiking boots as there are plenty of fabulous walks nearby), this 300-year-old pub has a timeless feel. Enjoy delicious dishes like mussels, cider and wild garlic butter or lamb shoulder, courgettes and aioli, washed down with a pint of local Uley Brewery Pigs Ear ale. thewoolpackslad.com Lola & Co, Tetbury For authentic tapas Since it opened in 2020, Lola & Co has expanded due to popularity and demand from lucky Tetbury locals who flock to this family-run bistro. Occupying a charming Grade II-listed Cotswold stone building, traditional Spanish dishes are given a modern treatment and you can enjoy the likes of pasta and seafood paella or huevos rotos y chorizo with wine from the exclusively Spanish list. Save room for the superb churros with Spanish hot chocolate. lolaandco.co.uk Fleur de Lys, Bampton For French favourites Olivier Bonte has certainly created his own little corner of France in the Cotswold market town of Bampton. This relaxed bistro-with-rooms oozes Gallic charm with decor inspired by classic chateaus and even a pétanque court in the secluded garden. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the proudly French menus include robust dishes like snails in garlic butter and coq au vin with mash, with summer options including moules marinière or a classic bouillabaisse. fleurdelys-bampton.com Martin & Malthouse, Tetbury For an impeccable wine list Created by a combination of family and friends, Martin & Malthouse is a charming cafe, deli and bottle shop. The shop stocks a wide range of local produce, wine, beers and spirits, plus olive oil from the family’s own trees in Greece. Every Thursday, the shop stays open late as it morphs into an evening wine bar serving charcuterie and cheese boards, with a local sourdough pizza maker providing food a couple of Thursdays a month. martinandmalthouse.co.uk Warehouse 4, Gloucester For beers by the water Part of the award-winning Gloucester Brewery and Fox’s Kiln Distillery in Gloucester’s regenerated docks, Warehouse 4 is a tap room with a difference. You can enjoy beers such as Dockside Dark and Gloucester Gold served straight from the barrel, but there are also gins and vodkas made on the premises plus regular street food trucks. Housed in a converted warehouse, the venue has also become a local cultural hub with music and comedy nights. gloucesterbrewery.co.uk/warehouse4-taproom Broadway Deli, Broadway For local produce Set across two floors of a 17th-century building with a fascinating history (former uses include a vicarage, tea room and guest house), the Broadway Deli has been a Cotswolds gem for 22 years. Freshly baked bread and pastries, locally grown fruit vegetables and artisan local cheeses share space on the packed shelves with wines and deli counter staples from further afield. There’s also a lovely little cafe and a stunning garden at the back. broadwaydeli.co.uk Knead Bakery Cafe, Elkstone For award-winning bakes Just off the A417 between Cheltenham and Cirencester, Knead Bakery is part of Elkstone Studios, a workspace hub in converted farm buildings with a food hall, gym and children’s play park. Both indoor and heated outdoor seating is available, the latter in a pretty lavender and olive tree lined courtyard surrounded by fields. It’s a delightful setting to enjoy a crispy duck waffles, award-winning pecan and maple Danish pastries or the signature lemon meringue pie. kneadbakery.co.uk Worton Kitchen Garden, Worton near Cassington For a meal in a unique setting A regenerative smallholding on the edge of Oxford, the aim at Worton Kitchen Garden is to provide 80% of the food served in the on-site restaurant from the farm or a small number of trusted local producers. Surrounded by fruit and vegetable crops, the charming restaurant changes the menu weekly and typical dishes include Sri Lankan celeriac curry, fallow deer chilli con carne and 18-hour roast shoulder of pork with crab apple jelly. wortonkitchengarden.com Foodie day trips around the Cotswolds Woodchester Valley Vineyard Woodchester Valley is a vineyard and winery set within 58 acres near Stroud in the Cotswold Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. They grow a selection of grape varieties that go into making a range of sparkling and still wines, which have won multiple awards over the years. The vineyard runs regular tours and there are also special events such as ‘Fizz & Chips’ and ‘Pinot & Pizza’ where visitors can enjoy food and wine among the vines. Those wine buffs who want to extend their visit can stay in luxurious accommodation within the vineyard. woodchestervalleyvineyard.co.uk Daylesford Cookery School Whether it’s pasta masterclasses, artisan breadmaking or mastering the art of afternoon tea, there is a course for everybody all year round at Daylesford. The focus this summer, however, is a series of fire pit cooking workshops, from June 29 to August 17. Centred around two open fires in Daylesford’s outdoor courtyard, these classes are aimed at barbecue enthusiasts and anybody who loves cooking food outdoors. The full-day courses cover cooking directly on the fire, cast iron cooking, working with larger joints of meat, marinades, grilling seasonal vegetables and more. daylesford.com/visit/cotswolds/cookery-school Rectory Farm, Stanton St John As well as the usual smell of the countryside, there is celebration in the air at Rectory Farm this year. In September, the Tractor Festival will celebrate the 70th year of the Stanley family farming the land at Stanton St John. The packed weekend (September 21/22) features vintage ploughing matches, tractor displays and potato harvesting demonstrations. As well as a farm shop and Tractor Shack café, there are also 45 acres of Pick Your Own crops including strawberries, blackcurrants, sweetcorn and flowers. Time your visit in October and you can visit the pumpkin festival which attracts over 15,000 visitors each year. rectoryfarmpyo.co.uk More travel inspiration... Brighton guide: where locals eat and drink 12 small towns across the UK every foodie should visit The UK's best pubs with rooms UK boutique hotels for food lovers 10 exciting UK city breaks for food lovers Best restaurants with rooms UK spa hotels for food lovers Best romantic UK hotels Best seaside staycations Best country hotels
Clean-eating brigade look away now. Pasta and pizza are back, and better than ever before, now that a new wave of authentic, regional Italian restaurants have opened up across the UK. Let olive be your carb guide
Italian restaurants in the UK are enjoying a renaissance as chefs and restaurateurs go back to their roots. Using traditional recipes from regional Italy and the best imported ingredients, as well as, of course, great British produce, these Britalians are breaking the mould. Pasta is officially cool again - why not explore some of our favourite pasta recipes to bring a taste of Italy into your own kitchen? Rolling pasta, making fresh pizza dough and churning ice cream, here we have listed some of our best Italian restaurants so far this year in the UK. You'll find seasonal dishes such as spaghettini with Morecambe Bay shrimp at Luca to pappardelle with beef shin at Padella. Now learn 10 things we love about Puglian cuisine and Tuscan food. Learn about Italian coffee culture with our expert barista Celeste Wong's guide, including traditional rituals, how to order it and the perfect recipe for at-home brewing. For a more casual affair, find out our favourite informal dining spots in the UK and then discover the best restaurants in the Lake District. Napoli Centro, Sheffield In this 16-seater, Riccardo Castagno is keen to create the vibe of those small, buzzy neighbourhood pizzerias that proliferate in Naples. Students and academics from the nearby university, like Sheffield foodies, love Riccardo’s light and elastic, 48-hour-proved pizza bases, quickly cooked at 450C and topped with sweet, crushed San Marzano tomatoes, Amalfi anchovies or imported cured meats. Toppings range from seasonal specials such as Zucca: fior di latte mozzarella, ’nduja and gorgonzola dolce on a butternut squash base; to its knock-out Salsiccia pizza, with fennel sausage, chilli, smoked provola cheese and friarielli, the leafy, broccoli-related green. napolicentro.co.uk Buyers Club, Liverpool This cool courtyard canteen is a fantastic place to nurse a negroni in the sun or, on colder days, hunker down with one of chef Kyle Jones’s fresh pasta dishes, such as ’nduja pappardelle or wild mushroom tagliatelle. Flavours sing with a rare clarity at Buyers Club, not just in its pastas. Its cacio e pepe butter beans are legendary and its tiramisu – the recipe brought to the restaurant by Sicilian chef, Patrizia Asaro – is getting “rave reviews” says reservations manager, Ella Stephenson. “Patrizia prefers a more creamy, full mascarpone base.” buyers-club.co.uk Bacareto, Cardiff Inspired by living in Venice during its art biennale, the owners of Cardiff art space and skate park Spit & Sawdust launched this homage to Venetian bacari: the small, back-street bars where cicchetti snacks flow alongside gluggable wines and zingy spritz cocktails. However, Bacareto is no slavish recreation of the form. Its menu is at least 50% vegan and includes some modish Britalian snacks, such as leek and cheddar arancini with burnt leek salt. Toppings on chef Owen Bowley’s crostini counter range from the classic Venetian baccalà mantecato (house-cured salt fish whipped with olive oil) to new wavers such as cashew ricotta with pickled carrot, or blue cheese, honey and walnut on rye. bacareto.co.uk Celentano’s, Glasgow Dean and Anna Parker love Italy. Dean cooked in Campania prior to opening London’s lauded Sorella, and their honeymoon consisted of a foodie road trip from Italy’s meaty, buttery northern provinces, via 2kg Fiorentina steaks in Montepulciano, to the country’s sun-ripened, abundant south. The couple find Italian food’s local, seasonable, sustainable nature and its emphasis on communal dining inspirational. Sharing is encouraged across Celentano’s potentially five-course menu (antipasti, primi, secondi, etc). “We wanted to celebrate Italian family feasts,” says Dean. Do not miss the agnolotti pasta filled with vegetables and ricotta, nor Dean’s next-level cold-brew affogato with malted barley gelato, dark chocolate mousse and chocolate rye crumb. celentanosglasgow.com Spaghetti Junction, York With pop-up Spaghetti Junction, Alessandro Venturi is determined to give Britain a true taste of his native Rome, in plates of gricia, amatriciana or carbonara. “Emblematic of Roman cuisine – they exemplify the Italian philosophy of less is more, emphasising the creation of distinctive flavours from a few high-quality ingredients.” Cacio e pepe particularly is, for Alessandro, “a magical dish” that “relies on creating a sauce with just pecorino, black pepper and pasta water for a glossy finish”. Rome-based food writer, Rachel Roddy, who has worked and cooked with Alessandro, calls him: “One of the best Roman cooks I know, traditional and innovative, skilled, always learning.” @spaghettijunctionyork Vinny’s, Newcastle Nick Grieves previously worked at the River Café and his cooking at restaurant, The Patricia, reflects that influence. Dishes are simple, produce-led and elegant. Monthly pop-up, Vinny’s (held at another of Nick’s restaurants, Ophelia) is a far brasher, gutsier affair, which channels Nick’s love of New York’s so-called ‘red sauce’ Italian restaurants. Expect meatballs, a riff on caesar salad with a vitello tonnato-style tuna dressing and XL sides of veal parmigiana or chicken saltimbocca. Pasta dishes include linguine with clams and roasted garlic (“one that screams NYC”, says Nick), and a carbonara-adjacent plate of silky, handmade fettuccine with pancetta, pecorino and egg yolk. As a final flourish, a little caramelised buttermilk whey and butter is mixed through the fettuccine to create in the sauce a “perfect balance – cheesy, rich and acidic”. @vinnysncl Tipo, Edinburgh In Edinburgh’s Aizle and Noto, chef Stuart Ralston and front-of-house ace Jade Johnston have created some of the city’s most exciting modern restaurants – contemporary spaces with pin-sharp cooking. A soothing mixture of natural materials and neutral tones, Tipo (named after the 00 pasta flour) is their Italian excursion, in sharing plates of ricotta gnudi in shellfish bisque or pappardelle with Scottish crab, chilli and parsley. Exceptional ingredients are paired with simplicity, restraint and, at times, ingenious creativity. Tipo’s savoury zeppole (mini doughnuts) is, explains chef de partie Aaron Mosedale, “a version you can’t really find anywhere else, tossed in paprika and dusted in pecorino”. tipoedinburgh.co.uk Cotto, Bristol Across several much-loved Bristol restaurants, including their eponymous flagship, the Bianchi family is an energetic proponent of modern Italian food. Cotto is steeped in tradition: old family recipes, cooking research in Padova, sourcing trips to storied Tuscan butchers. But it is colourfully innovative, too – for example, in its artichoke fritti with mint and hot honey or its Loco carbonara. Originally a cult hit at a previous Bianchi restaurant, Pasta Loco, a recently revived carbonara – which takes several days to make – arrives as a plate of saucy spaghetti and fennel sausage, topped with a slab of slow-cooked, crispy pork belly and a pancetta- wrapped poached egg. cottowinebarandkitchen.co.uk Tropea, Birmingham Named after a coastal Calabrian town, this hip Harborne restaurant takes inspiration from across Italy, while putting its own contemporary spin on that source material. “In a culinary sense, each region is almost independent. It’s fascinating,” says co-owner Ben Robinson-Young. Chef Kasia Piątkowska’s sharing plates menu might run from bombolone doughnuts filled with gorgonzola, pickled walnuts and red onion jam, to lightly battered, fried courgette flowers stuffed, not with ricotta, but goat’s cheese, mint and lemon juice, then dressed with local honey. Pappardelle is a permanent fixture, the ragu for these thick ribbons of egg pasta changing with the seasons. “My favourite is a rabbit ragu braised with spring vegetables and white wine,” says Kasia. tropea.uk Semola, Hove At Semola – a small, colourful 22-seat restaurant with a big reputation – freshness is a guiding principle. Every day co-owner Roberto Lonati makes various pastas, including specials such as orecchiette or Ligurian trofie. For Semola’s pastasciutta dishes (pastas with sauce), chef Luca Cuminetti dresses those pastas with sauces that are almost all cooked to order. Only two sauces, including Luca’s bolognese, demand a different approach of patient slow-cooking over several hours. As well as asciutta and baked pasta dishes, such as a regularly changing vegetarian lasagne (say, chestnut, mushroom and mozzarella), Semola also serves pizza, risottos and Italian mains, similarly full of vivid flavours. @semolarestaurant La Locanda, Lancashire Maurizio Bocchi and the Ribble Valley were made for one another. The area has a local, seasonal food culture to rival Italy’s, and many incredible suppliers feed into the chef’s dishes at this cosy, stylish cottage restaurant. Spring may bring ravioli with ricotta and foraged wild garlic. Or Sardinian baked lamb, raised in nearby Padiham, with fava beans and creamy potato croquette. Maurizio talks of creating “the perfect marriage between Italian cuisine and Lancashire ingredients. The land has a lot to offer. It’s not just the beautiful farms but what you can find in nature. For me, spring is synonymous with wild garlic, fresh cheeses and lamb”. lalocanda.co.uk Coppi, Belfast Located in St Anne’s Square in Belfast’s Cathedral Quarter, Coppi takes its inspiration from all regions of Italy, but when it comes to ingredients the kitchen looks to producers in Northern Ireland. “We work closely with local suppliers including award-winning farmer Peter Hannan – two of our signature dishes are Peter’s Tuscan spiced pork and fennel sausage cichetti and a steak florentine of salt-aged beef,” says Coppi’s Tony O’Neill. “The pasta we serve is freshly made daily in our production kitchen and the duck ragu, porcini mushroom ravioli and truffle has been on the menu from day one, along with our cichetti of feta fritters with truffled honey. I think there could be a riot if we tried to take them off the menu.” coppi.co.uk Cin Cin, Brighton With just 20 covers at a counter looking into an open kitchen and bar in Brighton’s North Laine, Cin Cin (‘cheers!’ in Italian) is an intimate, casual dining experience and the food is truly authentic. “I’m simply trying to give customers the food I was lucky enough to grow up with,” says owner David Toscano, who started the business as a pop-up serving food and drink from a converted 1970s Fiat campervan. “My grandparents migrated from Calabria in southern Italy to Australia in the 1950s,” says David. “And the food we offer is an updated homage to the flavour combinations I enjoyed as a kid.” Sicilian-style dishes on offer include tagliatelle with sardines, saffron and pickled sultanas, and handkerchief-shaped fazzoletti pasta served with grey mullet, sprouting broccoli and stracciatella cheese. cincin.co.uk Here are our favourite places to eat and drink in Brighton. Pasta Ripiena, Bristol Pasta Ripiena is the second opening in two years from Bristol cousins Dominic Borel and Ben Harvey, who have built up a considerable following in their city since launching the original Pasta Loco. At the smaller Pasta Ripiena, Ben’s brother Joe and his team change the menu every fortnight, developing new dishes and testing the elements of each one for a week before putting them on the menu. To keep things seasonal, the restaurant gets two weekly deliveries from the Milan fruit and vegetable market. This produce ends up in a range of dishes, particularly stuffed pasta, which is made on site every day. Typical main courses include tortellini of salt marsh lamb, artichoke barigoule, pancetta and ricotta salata, and ravioli of beef shin ragu, crispy coppa, chard and pedro ximénez. Dominic says: “You’ll find Joe rolling five different styles of stuffed pasta between the end of lunch service and dinner – the PX sherry jus on the beef ragu is sticky, sweet, rich and just plain naughty!” Pasta Ripiena is currently closed due to the pandemic, but the team are still serving their pasta at Breaking Bread. pastaripiena.co.uk Zucco, Leeds Nonna’s polpette and spaghetti; rabbit, pancetta, white wine and potatoes; and almond and raspberry polenta cake – these are just three reasons why locals flock to Zucco, tucked away in one of the leafier suburbs of Leeds. Run by brothers Rosario and Michael Leggiero, it’s a cool and contemporary place with black and white floor tiles, white subway wall tiles and a beaten tin ceiling. And if that look sounds slightly familiar to fans of a certain well-known chain, then it won’t come as too much of a surprise that Michael was manager at Polpo’s short-lived restaurant at Leeds Harvey Nichols. zucco.co.uk Looking for independents in Leeds? Here are our favourite foodie spots. Eusebi Deli, Glasgow What started as an Italian grocer shop in Glasgow’s East End back in 1975 has grown and expanded with a restaurant/deli in the city’s West End showcasing regional, seasonal dishes, such as burrata, pea gazpacho and vignarola salad. Eusebi goes to great lengths to source the very best ingredients – tomatoes and herbs from Calabria, flour from Rome, cured meats from Umbria. The pasta is made from scratch daily in the restaurant’s ‘pasta laboratory’ using different flours, including chickpea, chestnut and grano arso (burnt grain). “We wanted to take the customer out of their comfort zone,” says Giovanna Eusebi. “Italy is more than carbonara and spag bol. Our food is inspired by our Italian grandparents who farmed from land to table. Our concept was to slow things down and return to our heritage. Food made in factories and sold under the guise of ‘artisan’ just won’t wash anymore. People don’t want watered-down versions of authentic, they want the real deal.” Get Eusebi Deli's burrata, pea gazpacho and vignarola salad recipe. eusebideli.com Bianchis, Bristol A painted Bell’s Diner & Bar Rooms sign still exists above the door at this famed Montpelier restaurant site, taken on by Dominic Borel and Ben Harvey to turn into a traditional Italian trattoria. Interiors include bottle-green banquettes and wood panelling, crisp white tablecloths, and a modern geometric print in the bar – and there’s a mix of bookable tables and those reserved for walk-ins. There’s a suitably grown-up nod to the restaurant’s Italian roots right from the off, with a bitter aperitivo list (negronis, Aperol and Campari spritzes, vermouth and tonics), and plenty of Italian wines, but there are also a few curveballs to look out for – including an Essex pinot blanc, an Austrian orange wine and a trendy Greek red. When it comes to the food, the team goes further than the pasta-centric offerings at its other sites (Pasta Loco and Pasta Ripiena). The menu – divided into cured, raw, antipasti, primi (showcasing their pasta-making skills) and secondi sections – makes the most of local West Country producers: think braised quail with pancetta, coco blanc, turnip and girolle agrodolce; and roast hake with Dorset clams and baby fennel. The kitchen is headed up by Pegs Quinn, who boasts the River Café on his CV. bianchisrestaurant.co.uk Rudy's, Manchester Known as Little Italy, the Ancoats area of Manchester has a long food tradition stretching back to the Victorian era when thousands of Italian immigrants settled there, many of them starting their own ice-cream businesses. Relocating to Ancoats from London, Jim Morgan and girlfriend Kate Wilson opened Rudy’s in 2015, with the simple idea of bringing high-quality Neapolitan pizza to Manchester in a relaxed, casual space that was affordable and accessible to all. Named after the couple’s dog, Rudy’s now serves a dozen pizzas, from a sub-£5 marinara (tomato, garlic, oregano, basil and extra-virgin olive oil) to the romagnola (a margherita dressed with rocket, prosciutto crudo and parmesan). Says Jim: “What makes our pizzas stand out are two of the things that really stand out when you eat pizza in Naples – size and cost. Ours are big (14in), just like in Naples, but most UK pizzerias seem to reduce what is the traditional size found in Naples, possibly as a cost- cutting exercise. We’re also much cheaper in comparison to most pizzerias, even though we use the best ingredients we can lay our hands on.” rudyspizza.co.uk Check out our other Manchester recommendations. Bottega Caruso, Margate Harry Ryder and his Italian wife Simona met when they worked in London restaurants, but it wasn’t until Harry visited Simona’s family in Campania that he realised the Italian food he had tasted in the UK wasn’t anything like the real thing. “I tried her family’s tomato sauce, the pasta, the cheeses, wines and oil – I’d never tasted anything like it. I joked that we should start bringing it back to the UK, and that’s what we’ve done with Bottega Caruso.” This small Italian kitchen and shop started out as a pop-up stall at The Goods Shed in Canterbury, selling fresh pasta and Simona’s family sauces. The duo then started doing supper clubs at other people’s homes, before getting a permanent space in Margate and opening in January 2018. Popular dishes on the menu include verdura e fagioli – a slow-cooked stew of greens, organic beans and smoked chilli – and handmade cavatelli pasta with a meaty Neapolitan ragu comprising slow-cooked beef shin, top rib, pork belly, pork rump, fennel sausages, meatballs and Simona’s family tomato sauce. “Our cooking is inspired by my grandparents’ cuisine,” says Simona. “It’s peasant food, simple but made with good ingredients, plenty of time and love.” Bottega Caruso, which is open four days a week so that Harry and Simona can spend time with their young son, also hosts a monthly familystyle supper club where guests eat several sharing courses together. Harry says: “A lot of the dishes lend themselves to this style of eating. People love it – rather than everyone eating something different, you can eat like a family, course after course. That’s how we want our restaurant to be; like you're coming to our home to eat with us.” bottegacaruso.com Find the best places to eat and drink in Margate. Wolf Street Food, various locations What started out in Leeds two years ago has spread south, with Wolf sites now in Reading, London, Manchester and Nottingham . It’s on-the-go Italian street food made using predominantly British ingredients, including pasta bowls, salads and piadas (founder Tim Entwistle describes the latter as being “like Italian burritos”). “We use a piadina flatbread, which is heated on our hot stone, brushed with olive oil and garlic, then filled with marinated meats such as lemon chicken or spicy Italian sausage.” The twist is that the piadas are then stuffed with some spaghettini, drizzled with hot sauce or freshly made pesto and finished with fresh vegetables, then wrapped up like a burrito. “Our customers love it – they can tailor them to suit their tastes, whether they want classic Italian with basil pesto and lemon and rosemary chicken; or something different, such as steak and cheesy alfredo sauce. The combinations are endless.” wolfstreetfood.com Here are the best Italian restaurants in London (more here) Padella (Borough Market) Tim Siadatan and Jordan Frieda, the duo behind Trullo in Highbury, opened their second restaurant, Padella, in Borough Market in March 2016. Padella’s menu is made up of eight pasta dishes taken from Trullo’s ‘greatest hits’, using fresh pasta rolled in the window of the restaurant just before service. A small, no-bookings restaurant where queues are a given, Padella was born of a desire to make fresh handmade pasta accessible to everybody, with prices ranging from £5.50 to £11.50. The open kitchen combines traditional Italian techniques and quality British produce to make dishes like pappardelle and eight-hour beef shin ragu, tagliarini with brown shrimps, green and yellow courgette, and its now famous pici cacio e pepe (find the recipe at olivemagazine.com). Jordan says: “We wanted to create a restaurant that was true to the principles we admired in the great British restaurants – rigorous seasonality with a focus on using British producers wherever possible. We make everything in-house – rolling pasta, baking our bread, churning our ice cream – every day, and do it at a price that isn’t exclusive.” padella.co Emilia's (St Katherines Dock) “Many people have said the view from our restaurant resembles the coast of southern Italy,” says Andrew Macleod, owner of Emilia’s in St Katharine Docks. After developing the concept, Andrew joined forces with pasta chef Simone Stagnitto to create the menus for this rustic pasta bar. The pasta is made daily on site and the concise menu features just seven pasta dishes. Recipes include a northern Italian-style carbonara and four-hour slow-cooked béchamel bolognese. Check out our full review of Emilia’s. emiliaspasta.com Luca (Clerkenwell) “Someone said to me, you mean ‘Britalian, like the River Café’ – I liked that,” smiles chef Isaac McHale when asked to describe the high-end food at Luca, which features such dishes as montgomery cheddar fonduta and spaghettini with Morecambe Bay shrimp and mace butter. “We are just happy doing our thing, making it tasty and cooking with an Italian mindfulness of simplicity,” says Isaac. Don’t leave without ordering the light-as-air churro-like parmesan fries. “We are just happy doing our thing, making it tasty and cooking with an Italian mindfulness of simplicity,” says Isaac. Don’t leave without ordering the light-as-air churro-like parmesan fries. Check out our full review of Luca. luca.restaurant Sorella (Clapham) Having lived, worked and even celebrated their wedding on the Amalfi Coast, it had always been a dream of Robin and Sarah Gill (of The Dairy in Clapham) to open an Italian restaurant. After a trip to Italy, co-owner Dean Parker – who worked in one of Robin and Sarah’s favourite restaurants while out there – fell in love with the idea, too. And so, The Dairy’s sibling restaurant, Sorella (meaning ‘sister’), was born in early 2018. The menu takes a traditional format but is also hugely influenced by the produce from the group’s own farm. As with The Dairy, there is still a focus on methods such as fermentation, and Dean oversees the bread – including semolina sourdough. The menu starts with cicchetti and antipasti such as fried olives, fennel salumi and truffle arancini. Primi includes cuttlefish linguine with black olives and peppers, gnocchi with wild mushrooms and asparagus, and a seasonal ragu. Secondi are served using whole cuts from rare breeds or fish from Cornwall. For dolci, there’s Pump Street chocolate with fennel gelato, a seasonal panna cotta and a malted barley affogato with vodka milk. Drinks are a big focus, with the group’s Dan Joines creating a homemade vermouth. “The vermouth is an essential ingredient in the cocktails we serve,” says Dan. “Making our own has been a passion project for the past three years and now it’s complete. In summer it’s light and fresh, but we also make a deeper, sweeter one (great in a negroni) for winter.” sorellarestaurant.co.uk Via Emilia (Hoxton Square) This is an intimate 40-cover restaurant just off Hoxton Square focusing on food and wine from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. It's dark and intimate; wood-panelled walls are warmed up by low-hanging lights and marble surfaces, and a mirrored wall on one side of the restaurant gives the appearance of more space. Lightly fried, pillowy gnocco fritto are best torn apart and spread generously with squacquerone – a mild, creamy soft cheese from the Cesena region which we polished off swiftly. Wafer-thin slithers of peppery salame felino, prosciutto crudo and silky coppa made for a moreish salty snack. Delicate al dente parcels of ravioli were filled with creamy ricotta, earthy spinach and soaked in a rich sage butter sauce (that we’d have happily welcomed more of) before being topped generously with parmesan. Dessert is an easy decision to make, either order the tiramisu or don’t. It’s a light way to finish the meal as the serving is small, with the classic creamy, coffee soaked texture and cocoa flavour you’d expect. As with the food, the wine list focuses on those made in the region, with a large section dedicated to red and white sparkling. Our waiter suggested a red sparkling lambrusco from the coastal city of Reggio which was fruity yet crisp. A refreshing fizz to wash down a plate of hearty bolognese with. Click here to read our full review of Via Emilia. via--emilia.com Osteria Romana (Knightsbridge) This is all about authentic Roman cooking in an intimate setting. The small, softly lit space is kept simple with plain wooden flooring and furniture, earth-hued walls and little copper lamps that shine inviting pools of light over each table. Pots of vivid green basil adorn each table and a wall-to-wall wine rack provides a focal point at one end of the room. The effect is intimate, unpretentious but still tastefully sleek – it is Knightsbridge, after all. Four fat, handmade gnocchi were the stars of our antipasti. Pleasingly fluffy, they came drizzled with a decadent, moreish black truffle and pecorino sauce. Well-made rice croquettes, with a crisp exterior and meaty ragu filling, were complemented by a tangy tomato velouté. Spaghetti carbonara, that iconic Roman dish, was note perfect, with a silky properly emulsified sauce. Tonnarelli with artichokes and red prawns combined juicy crustacean with dried shards of artichokes and a bisque-like sauce. Lamb chops – served with ultra-smooth mashed potatoes and crispy leeks – were pink, tender and deeply flavoured. The service is very good: friendly and knowledgeable general manager Diego made us feel like we were being really looked after. Click here to read our full review of Osteria Romana. osteriaromana.co.uk Pastaio (Soho) Chef Stevie Parle’s latest venture brings handmade pasta and affordable wines to Soho. This cavernous Tom Dixon-designed space on Ganton Street is all high ceilings and exposed fittings, with a huge, colourful mural (by Rob Lowe of Supermundane) that saves the room from feeling coldly industrial. From the pasta section, malloreddus (tiny, ridged Sardinian gnocchi) came dressed with a slow-cooked sausage sauce that was elegantly light and flavourful, while agnoli stuffed with grouse, pork and rabbit was a deceptively simple dish that made good use of prime autumn produce. The drinks offering at Pastaio is short and affordable, ranging from prosecco and Aperol slushies to wines from lesser-known Italian growers, many priced by the glass. We tried a velvety, smoky refosco – a spot-on recommendation from our friendly, knowledgeable waiter. pastaio.co.uk Fiume (Battersea) This is Calabrian chef Francesco Mazzei's third restaurant, which is in partnership with D&D London in Circus West Village. The restaurant’s décor reflects the menu – it’s smart but relaxed. There’s counter dining and high chairs by the bar for quick plates of cicchetti (fried calamari to crostini draped with mozzarella, anchovies and roasted peppers) and homemade breads from the wood-fired pizza oven. The rest of the room, framed around the open-plan kitchen, is well spaced and comfortable – an elegant palette of brass and copper accenting blue (baby and teal) leather, hugging marble and dark wooden tables. Pasta is handmade, so choosing from the primi menu is difficult – you’ll want a taste of everything. Thin, yolk-yellow strands of tagliolini are punctuated by sweet and sea-fresh flakes of white crabmeat, pepped up with flecks of Amalfi lemon zest, fresh red chilli, flat-leaf parsley and fronds of dill. A bowl of Welsh lamb ragu fettuccine is slippery, buttery and oh so comforting – rubbles of the flavourful meat and their rich juices marrying into a moreish sauce. This is Italian pasta as it was originally intended. If the tiramisu sells out, order another bowl of pasta for your final course. Click here to read our full review of Fiume. https://www.fiume-restaurant.co.uk/ Temper (Covent Garden) “I’m sure there are traditionalists out there who think I’m the devil himself, but I’d rather be knocked for trying something new than just roll out someone else’s recipes – I never saw the point in that,” says Neil Rankin, explaining his philosophy at Temper Covent Garden. This is a restaurant that likes to push the boundaries when it comes to Italian-rooted food, from the aged beef-fat tallow and pesto ravioli to the wood-fired ‘Detroit’ pizza with its topping of goat ragu, mozzarella, London-cured Cobble Lane pepperoni and San Marzano tomatoes. “I love traditional pizzas and pastas, but London is full of great places doing both – so I wanted to explore a different side to both and have a little fun. For me, food shouldn’t have restrictions and rules past deliciousness.” Other standout dishes at Temper Covent Garden include the crab okonomiyaki pizza with crab, fennel, langoustine mayo, hoisin, sesame and katsuobushi. Neil says: “Certain flavour profiles are almost set in stone, but there is always room within those borders to create something new. I like to see connections between cuisines because they’re all related and when you get an obvious crossover it’s fun to exploit that. Especially in London, which is a multicultural, mixed bag of cuisines.” Read about all our favourite pizza places in London. temperrestaurant.com Photographs: Clair Irwin (Tipo), Tom Bird (Tropea) Looking for inspirational Italian recipes? Check out our 27 best ever Italian recipes.
Whether you’ve got a birthday coming up or just love eating out with a big gang of pals, here are the UK’s very best foodie party venues
Looking for restaurants for large groups? Read on for the best party restaurants in the UK to celebrate a special occasion, then check out the our round-up of the UK’s best gastro pubs with rooms as well as the best restaurants with rooms in the UK. For a rejuvenating overnight stay, discover the best UK spa hotels for food lovers. For more restaurant recommendations, check out new UK restaurants. For a more intimate restaurant experience, try our best private dining rooms in the UK and if you want to pull out all the stops, find out the UK's best showstopping restaurants to impress and the best chef's table experiences in the UK. Now find out the best female-owned restaurants in the U.K and for a more casual affair, discover our favourite informal dining spots. Best restaurants for a party in London… Tendril, Oxford Circus Subtitled “a (mostly) vegan kitchen and bar”, chef Rishim Sachdeva’s cooking, which explores the creative possibilities of plant-based dining, has proved super-popular with vegans and omnivores alike, which makes for an always lively vibe, whether you’re sitting at the central bar watching each dish being plated or in the atmospheric dining room on either side. Book the six-course set festive dinner: after welcome margaritas in Tendril’s semi-private rear dining room, the menu plays out in sharing dishes of preserved fennel and aïoli or crispy potatoes and remoulade, then solo courses of smoked potato pie or burnt leeks and chive emulsion. Max group, 30 (52 full-hire), dinner menu £67pp. tendrilkitchen.co.uk Cây Tre, Hoxton This year, Hieu Trung Bui’s pioneering Hoxton Vietnamese restaurant celebrates its 20th anniversary. Its festive sharing menu (also at Cây Tre Soho) includes dishes such as salt beef papaya salad, caul-fat wrapped roast ribeye, crispy sea bass in tamarind and braised duck leg with Indochina dragonplum sauce. £45pp; £20pp wine flight available. caytrerestaurant.co.uk The Laundry, Brixton A beautiful building with several dining spaces, this Brixton restaurant is a flexible feast. Groups of up to 12 can eat from an all-day festive menu in the main dining room or on a heated terrace promising “hygge vibes” (mains from £19). Alternatively, like the larger parties in its private rooms, smaller groups can pre-book a set festive menu of sharing starters and individual mains, including cod Provençal or confit duck, parsnip purée, beetroot relish and orange salad. Festive menu, £35. thelaundrybrixton.com Paesan, Crouch End In Italy, food is all about family – about the whole clan, from eight to 80, sitting down and sharing a spread together. It might be in London’s Crouch End, but Paesan has managed to stay true to that ethos. You can mix and match its antipasti, small plates, fresh pasta and meats and fresh fish from the monthly specials to create a multifarious feast to share with the family. The menu is traditional Italian as you would find in the countryside and streets of Italy, from Trentino in the north to Sicily in the south. Dine in the bright first floor dining area or out on the eye-catching heated terrace. Small plates from £7.50, larger plates from £16. paesanlondon.com The Thomas Cubitt, Belgravia A warren of handsome rooms that can accommodate eight to 80, this Georgian pub (one of Cubitt House’s eight upmarket London boozers) is a civilised redoubt of good wine, food and festive feels. Group chef-director, Ben Tish, runs a quality ship. Feasting menus include, for example, sharing platters of duck liver parfait, mulled pear and spiced milk buns; Norfolk Bronze turkey with trimmings including Middle White pork pigs-in-blankets; and organic salmon with fennel, braised cannellini and roasted chilli dressing. Feasting menus, groups eight+, from £68pp. cubitthouse.co.uk Arcade Battersea, Battersea Power Station New 500-capacity food hall at Battersea Power Station, featuring 13 cuisines. There is something for everyone in, for example, Tipan Tapan (Nepali street foods from ex-Fat Duck chef, Arjun Gurung); Sonora Taqueria’s Mexa; or Cantonese Siu Siu and its char siu iberico pork sandwich. Digital ordering to table allows you to easily mix dishes from across the kitchens. Groups of 12+ are advised to reserve and sharing menus, from £25pp, are offered for groups of 20+. Mains from around £10. arcadefoodhall.com Pastaio, Soho As Christmas approaches, chef Stevie Parle’s fresh pasta joint gets festive. Boozy slushies are given yule twists (quince, prosecco and brandy; mulled wine), while its group menu for parties of eight to 14 – alongside starter and mains options such as aubergine caponata or sausage ragu with Sardinian-style malloreddus pasta – includes quiet, ingenious nods to the season, such as a sprout, chestnut and pancetta gnocchi. Group menu, £30pp. pastaio.co.uk Circolo Popolare and Gloria, Fitzrovia and Shoreditch Part of the Big Mamma group of Italian trattorias, Circolo Popolare and Gloria are perfect for tribes who love their wine, a boisterous atmosphere and OTT food. Circolo Popolare’s largest table seats a dozen diners, while Gloria has the semi-private, candlelit Wine Room (which seats up to 20), stacked high with bottles of Italian wines, including classic vintage barolos from private collections, and The Basement, a hidden dining room with access to the open kitchen. Gloria is deliciously kitsch, with a mirrored ceiling and luxurious Missoni carpet, there are semi-private booths or the whole space can be taken over by 70 diners. Order the likes of pizza with truffle, speck, fior di latte mozzarella and mushrooms, bulbous burratas and 5.9-inch-high lemon meringue pies. bigmammagroup.com Blacklock, Soho The best restaurants cocoon you from the world. Hidden behind smart blinds in a historic warehouse, beneath the train tracks of Canary Wharf’s North Dock, Blacklock’s fifth London site is just such an escape. The VFM steak brand’s “all in” menu, which centres on sharing platters of its “skinny chops” – grass-fed British beef, pork and lamb chops, served on charcoal-grilled flatbreads – is great for groups up to 16. Interesting Harbour Brew Co beer and tap wine list. All in menu, £25pp. theblacklock.com Casa do Frango, London Bridge and Shoreditch Both of these Portuguese chicken joints have buzzy bars to start your evening in, where cocktails have pleasing Portuguese twists – such as a dash of tawny port in a punchy old fashioned, or tropical Licor Beirão to lace the caipirinha-like Caipirão. In the restaurants, long wooden tables provide great hosts for parties, and there's a sharing vibe. Try a selection of petiscos (small plates) served in terracotta dishes – shell-on prawns slathered in a garlicky white wine piri piri sauce and deep-fried salgadinhos (empanadas stuffed with caramelised onion, kale and mushrooms). The main event is succulent chicken with crispy, sticky piri-piri skin and extra-hot piri-piri sauce on the side. Accompany with refreshing chopped salads of tomatoes, cucumber, onions and green peppers or African rice studded with tiny peas, plantain pieces and chorizo, with crisp chicken skin on top to add crunch. Leave room for a delicate, cinnamon-laced custard tart, fresh and warm from the oven. casadofrango.co.uk Decimo, King's Cross Come to the 10th floor of the Standard for Peter Sanchez-Iglesias’s hit Spanish-Mexican food (think chistorra sausage black bean tacos or Cornish lamb mole). Stay on Saturdays until 2am to explore the mezcal cocktail list as DJs spin into the night. decimo.london Quaglino’s, Mayfair The roaring 20s may be long gone, but in this corner of Mayfair, Quaglino’s offers a contemporary take on Gatsby-style, late-night glamour. With its mezzanine bar and sweeping staircases, this is a huge art deco showstopper with a stage hung with red velvet drapes, where musicians and DJs play every night. At weekends, tables are cleared to create a dance floor and regular acts such as the all-female High On Heels and MKM Collective keep the party going until 3am. quaglinos-restaurant.co.uk Best restaurants for a party across the UK… Church Street Tavern, Colchester Owner Piers Baker (Sun Inn, White Hart) creates smooth, convivial Essex venues that serve reassuringly good food. This smart bar-restaurant’s Christmas menu (for groups six+), gives the classics a modish spin, in dishes such as beef sirloin and braised shin with onion and blue cheese yorkies, parsnips and duck fat roasties, or preserved lemon fishcake, saffron yogurt and dukkah. Christmas menu, £35/£42. churchstreettavern.co.uk Yuzu @ Brew York, York Brew York’s vast brewery tap is a veritable beer-vana. Resident kitchen Yuzu is a further draw with its on-point rice bowls and Korean fried chicken. Groups of 10+ can book ahead and go à la carte or opt for a festive sharing menu (£15pp, optional £5 beer flight) featuring pigs-in-blanket bao, turkey and stuffing gyoza and a mince pie bao-nut – yes, a bao-doughnut fusion! Mains from £9.50. yuzustreetfood.com The White Horse, Churton, Cheshire Gary Usher’s debut pub is a polished, clubbable space, equally suitable for a gathering of old friends, a huddle of young couples or a multi-gen family meet-up. Chef Josh Robbins’ set menu (groups of eight+) marries creative meat-free mains, such as roast cauliflower with sumac butter bean mash and a green chilli and salted lemon dressing, with sharply executed classics like chicken liver pâté, crème brûlée and pork and apricot-stuffed turkey. Festive menu, £32/£42. thewhitehorsechurton.co.uk Madre, Manchester and Liverpool Liverpool gets the soaring seven-metre-tall Christmas tree, Manchester has the slick, nightclub-adjacent styling. Both Madres share a bustling, vivacious energy perfect for a crowd. The festive sharing menu (groups six+) showcases various starters and tacos, including the stand-out birria beef shin version, with its sensational dipping broth. Christmas taco fillings include adobo-marinated turkey and cranberry, and roast brussels sprouts, peanut miso and salsa negra. Festive menu, £35/£40. thisismadre.co.uk The Tivoli, Cambridge With its street food (Levels’ 14-inch square pizzas, Steak & Honor’s renowned burgers), covered roof terrace and indoor games – including neon-lit crazy golf course, Electric Greens – this four-floor former cinema has it all. Eat in the Assembly Hall or book group packages that add in activities. A festive feasting menu is offered (£25pp, groups 30+) for those who, understandably, can’t live without pigs-in-blankets. Mains from £9.50. thetivoli.co.uk Picture House Social, Sheffield Occupying a former 1920s ballroom, this basement bar-kitchen rolls until 3am at weekends. Book a booth (12 seated) and explore its menu of Neapolitan-style pizzas, topped with classics like ’nduja and fennel sausage, and innovative combos such as BBQ lamb, red onion, pickles and mustard mayo. Not that the thrills here are purely pizza-based. The venue also boasts a mini-cinema/karaoke space and games rooms (table tennis, table football, shuffleboard shack), various aspects of which you can book for private groups or drop into ad hoc. Pizza from £8. picture-house-social.co.uk House of Fu, Leeds With its frozen yuzu margaritas and upper-floor karaoke rooms, HoF has your party needs covered. Groups of up to 10 can eat from the East Asian-inspired main menu – think shiitake and kale gyoza, or spicy pork and chicken tantanmen ramen – with larger parties offered various set menus, from £22.50. A new Fu in Manchester has its own feasting menus (from £40), including dishes such as sea bream carpaccio and Szechuan lamb shoulder. Mains from £13. hellohouseoffu.com Exhibition, Manchester Not only does Exhibition unite three of the north’s finest talents (southern Italian pasta kitchen, Sud; Basque-inspired aces, Baratxuri; and Scandi-influenced Osma), in one venue, across one menu. But after dinner, the bar in this chic, open-plan space ramps up with DJs and ace cocktails until late at weekends. A sharing menu of dishes from the three kitchens is available for parties of eight+ (£49, vegan six-course, £40). Larger plates from around £10. exhibitionmcr.co.uk Thor’s Tipi, York This Parliament Street pop-up aims to provide a rolling party through December for bar hoppers, exhausted shoppers, friends and families. Expect DJs spinning Christmas and chart classics, plus eclectic live music on Sundays. York’s East Asian street food specialist, Yuzu, will serve karaage fried chicken (a popular festive food in Japan), katsu dishes and knock-out bao, while the bar delivers frozen slushy cocktails, such as the Frosty (salted caramel vodka, hazelnut liqueur and chocolate milk). In the Principal Hotel gardens, a second Thor’s will operate as an alpine dining hall for groups, with Yuzu serving sharing platters of gyoza, loaded duck fries and miso caramel wings on converted snowboards (£21pp). thorstipi.com Albert’s Schloss, Birmingham This Bavarian beer hall, reimagined for modern Britain, has been a runaway hit in Manchester. Now it’s bringing its unpasteurised, tank-fresh Pilsner Urquell, homemade schnapps, live music and DJs to a new 500-capacity Birmingham venue. Expect crowds to flock this festive season for plates of chicken schnitzel, wild mushroom spätzle or schweinshaxe – roast pork knuckle with red cabbage. Elsewhere, the menu includes enduring classics (think coquilles St Jacques, steaks and burgers) and a Christmas menu is available, too (£40pp). albertsschloss.co.uk Bundobust, Leeds, Manchester and Liverpool The beer-hall-style layouts of Bundobust make it perfect for larger parties, allowing everybody to sit together on the communal benches. The serving style is also ideal, with small dishes of Indian street food designed for sharing. Go for the Bundo Combo, which includes every dish on the menu – including bhel puri, bundo chaat and massala dosa – for £82.50 and feeds six to eight. Everything is vegetarian, with more than half of the menu vegan, and there are plenty of gluten-free options, too. With 16 beers on tap and an extensive range of beers in the fridge, cocktails and mocktails, there’s something for everybody. bundobust.com Bambalan, Bristol With a roof terrace overlooking the city centre, Bambalan has become a go-to venue for Bristolians looking to host a large party. There is space for up to 250 guests indoors but the capacity extends to around 400 when using the three outdoor terrace spaces, which also include a DJ booth and ping pong tables. Food-wise, expect punchy Middle Eastern-inspired flavours, including imam bayildi (charcoal-roasted aubergine with spiced tomato sauce, feta, tahini, rice pilaf and fattoush). bambalan.co.uk Honeycomb & Co, Edinburgh Since opening in May 2017, Honeycomb & Co has built a reputation as relaxed neighbourhood spot with cracking food. The restaurant is available for private hire every day from 7pm, whether it’s for cocktail parties or seated dinners. The restaurant has a flexible layout which allows larger groups of up to 42 people to be seated, or 60 standing. A typical three-course dinner menu begins with Edinburgh Gin-cured salmon, pickled cucumber, whipped horseradish and preserved lemon cream, followed by heather-honey-and-ginger-spiced slow-roasted pork belly with pickled cauliflower, pak choi, roasted squash and miso gravy. To finish, there’s fig and pear ‘mess’ – roasted figs, poached pears and honey cream with brown sugar meringue and pistachio brittle. honeycombandco.com Hare & Hounds, Aberthin, Vale of Glamorgan Run by ex-St John chef Tom Watts-Jones and his wife, Sarah, this picturesque Welsh village pub has an 18-seat private dining room and often hosts large parties and wedding receptions. Tom and his chefs can write a three-course à la carte menu in advance or tables can request sharing dishes, such as braised lamb shoulder or steak and ale pie to have along the centre of the large table. For very large parties, the team can put a marquee in the garden and serve buffets of cold meats, fish and salads, host a BBQ or a roast suckling pig. hareandhoundsaberthin.com Freemasons, Wiswell, Lancashire Award-winning Ribble Valley pub Freemasons has recently launched its “Mr Smith’s” chef’s table for private parties. With seating for six to 12 people, the space can be tailored to suit the party – whether you want to watch sport on the big screen, put on your own music playlist or just sit comfortably with some great food. You can choose from a variety of menus, such as Sunday lunch or a bespoke tasting menu with wine flight: you can even book it for a breakfast. The rest of the pub also has a number of other private dining areas. Don’t expect a compromise on the food though – with this flexibility this is one of the best gastropubs in the country, with an impressive menu with the likes of slow-cooked shoulder and kofta of Herdwick lamb with aubergine and miso purée, and rice pudding with poached English bilberries. freemasonsatwiswell.com Bar Esca, Nottingham For larger events of up to 100, Nottingham’s Bar Esca has Cellar 9, a private-hire space with its own bar. Designed around Barcelona’s backstreet bars, the atmospheric, low-lit cellar features Picasso-style graffiti on the back wall and often has live music. Food is the ultimate drinking fodder – think chorizo hot dogs, halloumi fritters, Catalan-style flatbreads, croquettes and chicken fillet skewers with a roasted sesame dip. Work your way through the bar, or stick to the seven types of made-to-order sangria. There’s also a full vegan or vegetarian party menu on offer, too. barescatapas.co.uk/baresca The Hut, Colwell Bay, Isle of Wight A beachside restaurant with stunning views across the bay and the Solent, The Hut offers private dining on the 26-cover Top Deck. Whether guests arrive by road or boat, they are protected from the elements by heaters and a retractable roof. A typical meal might include fish soup, smoked haddock fish cake with spinach and beurre blanc, or grilled chicken and fries. thehutcolwell.co.uk Crafthouse, Leeds With its stunning rooftop views across Leeds and excellent food, Crafthouse is one of the city’s undisputed hot spots and tailor-made for large parties with its open-plan restaurant, interconnected bar and terrace. It also has a 20-seat private dining room with glazed walls on two sides enabling diners to enjoy those panoramic views, and the terrace can be used for private BBQs with bespoke menus created by the chefs. Choose from the modern British menu, with the likes of braised pork cheeks with celeriac and pickled apple, and pigeon with puy lentils and bourginon sauce up for grabs in recent months. crafthouse-restaurant.com Mowgli, Birmingham The Birmingham branch of this fast-growing Indian street-food chain has a 14-seat private dining room in the middle of the restaurant. If there’s a big gang of you, ask for the sharing menu (at £19.50 a head), which provides a spread of dishes from across the menu including the signature yogurt chat bombs, fenugreek fries and Himalayan cheese toast, followed by a tiffin roulette which gives a taste of three different curries served with rice. mowglistreetfood.com Wild Artichokes, Kingsbridge, Devon A small industrial space might not scream party venue but Wild Artichokes, from chef and food writer Jane Baxter (who trained under Joyce Molyneux, has worked at River Café, and set up the Riverford Field Kitchen) and event organiser Samantha Miller, knows how to have a good time. Its unusual location offers up a unique dining experience – four big tables with benches, food to share and a view of the open-plan kitchen. The venue can seat 32 comfortably or up to 40 cosily. Jane and her team create a set sharing menu each night, with a selection of fish, veggie and meat antipasti to start, then usually one or two cuts of meat, lots of seasonal vegetable dishes and traditional puddings to share. Sam says: “This way, there’s no need to worry about sending menus around for guests to make choices – you just turn up on the night and eat.” The venue isn’t licensed for alcohol but guests can bring wine, with a corkage fee of £5 per bottle. wildartichokes.co.uk The Fox & Hounds, Hunsdon, Hertfordshire James and Bianca Rix’s village pub has a huge dining room, garden and terrace, all of which can be used for parties. The light, high-ceilinged dining room can seat up to 45 for a sit-down meal over three long tables, and the kitchen can also cater for canapé parties and buffets. The whole pub can also be hired out for larger parties such as weddings and special birthdays, catering for up to 100 guests. Head chef James works closely with customers to develop a bespoke menu according to individual preferences, occasions and the season. This might mean set menus, à la carte options and sharing dishes for tables, along with specials such as seafood platters and large joints of meat cooked in the Josper charcoal oven. foxandhounds-hunsdon.co.uk Scallop Shell, Bath This upmarket, family-friendly fish restaurant in central Bath can accommodate up to 40 people in its upstairs restaurant space and serves a special menu for large groups. Start with Elberry Bay mussels, shallots, garlic and parsley before moving on to cod loin, chips, mushy peas and tartare sauce, or English smoked salmon fishcakes. Make sure you leave room for the classic sherry trifle (or old-fashioned steamed plum pudding with brandy custard, if it’s near Christmas). thescallopshell.co.uk Heathcock. Cardiff This gastropub has converted the old skittles alley into a 30-seat private dining room available for party hire. Heathcock also offers a corporate package on weekday lunches where work groups/ meetings can have the private dining room for a half day/full day, along with a two- or three-course lunch featuring its robust, modern British pub grub – steak and ale pie for two to share, braised duck leg pappardelle, or hanger steak with pommes anna. Far more interesting than a pile of sad-looking sandwiches in the office boardroom. heathcockcardiff.com The Whippet & Pickle, Holmfirth A busy independent restaurant in the heart of West Yorkshire, The Whippet & Pickle is a popular party venue thanks to its private dining room and 20-seat cinema. Large groups with something to celebrate tend to have a restaurant meal followed by their choice of film. The restaurant even provides popcorn and lets you take your wine in. Go for Korean duck tacos with kimchi slaw and sesame mayo for starters, followed by chipotle and maple-glazed pork belly, with smoked corn and pepper salsa, and mac ’n’ cheese. thewhippetandpickle.com Harry’s, Exeter Established in 1993, Exeter veteran Harry’s has hosted many parties over the years and large groups can either host a table in the main restaurant or take over the private dining/function room. Depending on the party size, Harry’s offers an à la carte choice or a special parties and events menu that will appeal to crowds – from steaks, burgers and chillies to Devon crab linguine, and salmon and watercress fishcakes. You can even work with the team on a bespoke menu, including sharing plates and wine flights. harrysrestaurants.co.uk The Sheppey, near Glastonbury This unusually cool rural pub delivers great food (beer-battered fish and chips, and chicory and smoked Wedmore cheese tart) and cracking music events. Every Thursday and Friday in December, the early tables will be cleared to create a dance floor for DJ Lath’s Soul Shack. thesheppey.co.uk Dockyard Social, Glasgow A West End street food event where DJs and food traders – such as Neapolitan-style Pizza B Goode, Yalla (don’t miss the whole roasted cauli) and Thai kitchen Noi’s – keep things bubbling. dockyardsocial.com Oli’s Thai, Oxford Ladd Thurston’s exceptional Thai cooking means tiny Oli’s is often fully booked. But it does hold five counter seats for walk-ins. Arrive early or try sister tapas venue, Arbequina (arbequina.co.uk). olisthai.com Angela’s of Margate, Kent Due to its size (the largest table seats eight), this seafood restaurant avoids the Christmas party rush. Nods to the season (mulled white wine, for example) accompany classy plates of, say, lemon sole with green sauce. angelasofmargate.com Nook, Cardiff A cosy Canton spin-off of Dusty’s Pizza, where you can enjoy seasonal small plates (deep-fried camembert with fig mostarda and sirloin with walnut romesco) and natty wines. nookcardiff.co.uk The Dining Room, Abersoch Chef Si Toft’s 22-cover restaurant acknowledges Christmas (with seasonal cocktails and a set menu for groups) but generally sticks to what the regulars love: plates of, for instance, ox cheek, black kale, pickled carrot and mushroom ketchup. thediningroomabersoch.co.uk Erst, Manchester The odd Mariah Carey track aside, it’s business as usual in this minimalist Ancoats space. Expect stellar small plates (those fried potatoes, that yeast sauce!) and exciting natural wines. erst-mcr.co.uk The Sun Inn, Dedham, Essex Instead of turkey and other festive clichés, this 16th-century coaching inn offers larger groups sharing feasts of, for example, luxury fish pie or chateaubriand. thesuninndedham.com Röski, Liverpool Discerning office parties visit Röski but Anton Piotrowski’s restaurant retains a refined and relaxed air as he weaves technically accomplished magic with plates of quail kiev and caviar or red cabbage ‘bolognese’. roskirestaurant.com Belgrave Music Hall, Leeds As its name suggests, Belgrave is primarily a loud, lively late-night bar and gig space, but food has always been at the heart of this hip, multi-storey operation. Its monthly street-food festival has launched celebrated Yorkshire names such as Bundobust and Harrogate’s Stuzzi, and Belgrave’s main bar is the permanent home of two of Leeds’ hottest street-food slingers: Patty Smith’s burgers and Dough Boys pizza. belgravemusichall.com Ernest, Newcastle Just outside the city centre, hidden among the artists’ workshops, galleries and creative spaces that are slowly transforming industrial Ouseburn, Ernest is a friendly, boho café-bar where affordable, locally-sourced food gives way, after 9pm, to boozy nights of comedy, anarchic ‘disco ping pong’ and dance-music. Most of that noisier action is kept in a back room, leaving diners and drinkers free to kick back in the quirkily decorated café, with its mirror balls and impressive collection of Star Wars figures. While it uses vegetables from Byker Community Farm and meats from traditional Northumbrian butchers, chef Richard Phillipson’s menu is global in its outlook. weareernest.com Words by Mark Taylor and Tony Naylor Photographs by Jerome Galland, Lateef Okunnu, Joann Pai, Bacon on the Beech, Paolo Ferla
From wood-fired feasts to Michelin-starred spreads, raise your gravy jugs to Britain’s best roast dinners
Looking for the best Sunday roasts? Want to know where to get the best yorkshire puddings? We’ve found the UK’s best restaurants and pubs for Sunday lunch. Want to extend your weekend and stay over? Check out our favourite gastro pubs with rooms in the UK and if you want to pull out all the stops, find out the UK's best showstopping restaurants to impress. For a more casual affair, find out our favourite informal dining spots. Want to try making your own? Follow our step-by-step guides for the crunchiest pork crackling, fluffiest roasties, towering yorkies and impressive meat-free roasts. Listen to the olive podcast where Janine Ratcliffe chats to olive’s Senior Food Editor Anna Glover about the iconic British Sunday Lunch, sharing tips and tricks to creating all of the elements for a perfect roast dinner. View oEmbed on the source website Sunday roasts in London… Fallow, St James's Jack Croft and Will Murray’s sustainable-focused restaurant makes for a lively, sophisticated Sunday lunch spot. There’s a buzz from groups catching up on tables beneath suspended planters of dried flowers, and chefs slicing, sizzling and charring ingredients in the large open kitchen. Tart Yorkshire rhubarb, sweet vanilla, tangy yogurt and gin combine in a perfect emulation of rhubarb and custard in cocktail form, while frozen margaritas make the perfect summer pairing to the iconic kombu-seasoned corn ribs or creamy caramelised cauliflower croquetas topped with crisp cauli leaves, English pecorino and black garlic mayo. Chefs butcher meat on site and use every cut available, so the Sunday roast offering rotates depending on what’s on offer that week; this might be pig’s head or slow-cooked venison shoulder, and there’s always perfectly pink dairy cow rump and fillet. All are served on a plate generously laden with golden roast potatoes, glazed carrots, red cabbage and seasonal greens, with a fluffy Yorkshire pudding to boot. Ingredients otherwise destined for waste are used to elevate the roast, with pickled beetroot offcuts taking new life in a purée for the venison while charred leek tops are blitzed into a mayo. This ethos continues through to desserts, which are worth squeezing in, with surplus whey transformed into the silkiest caramelised tart and homegrown golden ignoki mushrooms to top chocolate mousse and in a mushroom caramel. fallowrestaurant.com The Pig’s Ear, Chelsea Nestled on Old Church Street, The Pig’s Ear has been a local spot since 1870 and once tucked away inside you could be forgiven for thinking you’re in a country pub whereas you’re just a short walk from the smart streets of Sloane Square. It’s the restaurateur Gladwin Brother’s first pub venture, and they have created a menu that focuses on all of the good stuff. Standout starters include the freshest Jersey oysters served with apple shallot vinaigrette, their famous mushroom Marmite éclairs and devilled violet quail eggs with the crispiest pork crackling. The main course is served with seasonal vegetables from the Gladwin Brother’s farm, towering Yorkshire puddings and perfectly crisp and fluffy roast potatoes. You can choose from Sussex beef sirloin, Tamworth pork belly or whole chicken with morels and pancetta. Complement your meal with Sussex ales or wines from the Gladwins’ Nutbourne vineyard, thoughtfully paired throughout a carefully crafted menu. The chandelier-lit bar is home to roaring fires, board games, cosy seating and plenty of good people watching opportunities. pigsearpub.com Blacklock, Soho “Roasts almost as good as your mum’s” is the modest tagline at contemporary chophouse Blacklock, where a starter of pig’s head on toast with gravy might be followed by 55-day-aged beef rump, Cornish leg of lamb or Middle White pork loin cooked over coals with sides of swede and lardo or charred winter greens and chestnuts. All roasts are served with yorkshire puddings, duck-fat roast potatoes, a selection of seasonal vegetables and Blacklock gravy. If there’s a group of you (eight to 10), order the ‘All In’ where everything’s piled onto a platter for the ultimate Sunday banquet. Either way, make sure you book well in advance as reservations for Sunday lunch tend to fill up two months beforehand. theblacklock.com Harwood Arms, Fulham Harwood Arms head chef Sally Abé says it’s the attention to detail at every stage that makes the Sunday menu at this Michelin-starred pub so special. “We carefully source the best beef from Cumbria, we use the best [Agria] potatoes for the crispiest roasties, really flavoursome carrots and a rich red wine gravy. The portions are generous and served sharing-style for everyone to dig in, and the relaxed dining room makes guests feel at home, which adds to the enjoyment of it all.” Unusual cuts can also turn up on the Sunday menu at the Harwood Arms so expect to see the likes of braised jowl of Tamworth pork with crushed turnip, roast apple and mustard, alongside the more traditional roast sirloin of 45-day-aged Shorthorn beef with yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, cauliflower cheese croquettes, horseradish cream, root vegetables, bone marrow gravy and greens. harwoodarms.com The Camberwell Arms, Camberwell A past winner of The Guardian’s 50 Best Sunday Lunches and the Observer Food Monthly Awards, Sunday lunch at The Camberwell Arms is a celebration of family-style eating with sharing main courses being the focal point. Everything is made in-house, including the hot mint sauce with the spring lamb, garlic-braised potatoes, peas and spring onions, and the béarnaise accompanying the dry-aged Hereford onglet, roast potatoes and watercress. As befits a kitchen run by a team that can trace its roots back to influential gastropubs such as The Eagle in Farringdon and the Anchor & Hope in Waterloo, head chef Michael Davies always serves family-size sharing dishes, whether it’s slow-roast salt marsh lamb with dauphinoise potatoes large enough for five people, or a whole spit roast herb-fed chicken with roast potatoes, salad and wholegrain mayonnaise for four. thecamberwellarms.co.uk The Brown Dog, Barnes The Brown Dog is an independently owned pub tucked away in the leafy backstreets of affluent Barnes. The interior is cosy yet chic, with rustic wooden tables, candles in glass bottles and traditional Victorian fireplaces, the atmosphere is warm and family friendly and it’s clear to see the pub is a hit with the locals. The menu and cooking here is excellent, starters include Wye Valley asparagus with Scottish morels, poached egg and aged Parmesan and grilled Cornish mackerel with cucumber and horseradish. The main event is just as good, Sunday lunch is served with dripping roasties, seasonal vegetables and Yorkshire pudding with a rich ale gravy, both the 31 day aged rump of Surrey beef and aged Welsh lamb rump were mouth-wateringly good. Make sure you book well in advance; the pub is relatively small and rightfully very popular. thebrowndog.co.uk The Guinea Grill, Mayfair “Sunday lunch is a different dining occasion to any other – it’s convivial and there is less pressure on time,” says charismatic landlord Oisín Rogers of The Guinea Grill in Mayfair’s upmarket Bruton Place. “It’s very easy to make a bad Sunday roast. It’s not that difficult to produce a good one but a brilliant one needs real skill and a huge amount of thought about how to deliver each component on time and in perfect condition.” This means “big and well seasoned” yorkshires served straight from the oven, potatoes seasoned with ground rosemary and thyme, and gravy made from the stock and roasting juices of the meat. Must-order Sunday options include a chateaubriand for two with duck-fat roast potatoes, yorkshire pudding, honey-glazed carrots, baby parsnips and kale. “We are generous with gravy, roasties and veg. We don’t charge for seconds. Where people order steaks from the grill we serve it family-style, sliced for the table with all the Sunday trimmings. For the roast beef we use the rumps of the same brilliant grass-fed, dry-aged quarters that we use for our côte de boeuf, sirloin and T-bone. We sell racks of Welsh mountain lamb and free-range Blythburgh pork.” Although The Guinea Grill is best known for its meat, Oisín admits that “our chef Nathan’s walnut, truffle and blue cheese gratin has had us many high fives on Sundays”. theguinea.co.uk The Laundry, Brixton Bottomless gravy, truffle-spiked cauliflower gratin, honey-mustard bread sauce – all these decadent details will become new favourites at this restored Edwardian bistro in the heart of Brixton. Whet your whistle with the signature cocktail – a bracing cucumber margarita on the rocks – made for luscious pre-roast sipping out on the bistro's Parisian-style terrace, fit with tartan blankets and heaters for chillier days. Additions to the roast menu for the autumn/winter season – slow-reared spatchcock chicken for two, amped up with honey-mustard bread sauce, and a vegan leek and mushroom wellington – sit alongside Sunday mainstays: rolled roast pork belly with apple sauce, and 28-day aged roast Hereford sirloin with creamed horseradish and Yorkshire puds. The bountiful selection of trimmings – roast potatoes, seasonal squash, roast sweet potato, minted peas and bottomless gravy – are piled high on plates, straying from the carefully positioned approach you often find in restaurants in lieu of a relaxed, rustic feel. Add-ons are enticing, and hard to refrain from, namely the aforementioned cauliflower cheese gratin – golden, crispy and pepped with heady truffle and sage. Owner Mel Brown fills wooden shelves with imported new- and old-world wines from independent brands, too. thelaundrybrixton.com Sucre, Soho Big flavours, big space, big drama (huge chandeliers, moody lighting, the occasional shooting flame from the parrilla) combine to create an alternative to British Sunday lunch. Argentine legend Fernando Trocca’s ‘fire dining’ roast kicks off with sharing starters of chimichurri-soaked chorizo, roasted cauliflower with tahini and pesto, and sweet corn ribs, tangy with lime and Tajín (Mexican salt). Beef entrana is served rare with sweet potato and broccoli, while other options are sea bass and chicken – hearty stuff designed for big appetites. Crème caramel with dulce de leche and whipped cream will reward anyone who makes it to the end. sucrerestaurant.com Best Sunday roasts across the UK… Boy's Hall, Ashford Only an hour's train ride from London, Boys Hall’s soaring oak-beamed dining room – the latest edition to the Grade II listed hall – puts local Kentish produce at the forefront. When we visited in the summer, the Sunday lunch menu was divided into sharing platters: Longcroft & Old BBQ roasted sirloin beef and chimichurri; BBQ roasted corn-fed whole chicken; spiced lentil and spinach wellington, nettles, chestnut and beetroot. Sides celebrated the season’s bounty, from charred corn to the caesar Romaine leaves, however, the option for full-on comfort is still there, namely the beef dripping crispy Ratte potatoes. Designed for feasting on the garden-view terrace, Sunday lunch has rarely felt so elegant. boys-hall.com Brassica, Beaminster, Dorset Chef Cass Titcombe used to run London’s Canteen, an influential place famous for its roasts, and he continues this tradition at his Dorset restaurant. On Sundays, Cass serves a full à la carte menu alongside a roast option that alternates between sharing platters of local hogget, pork, Devon Ruby beef and occasionally venison, all with duck-fat-roasted potatoes and organic vegetables from a local farm. Kids can order half portions so the whole family can tuck in as they would at home. brassicarestaurant.co.uk Alberta’s at the Windmill Walk one street up from Brighton’s busy Western Road to find this cosy yet cool back street boozer where there’s local craft ale on tap, tunes on vinyl and a sun-trap pavement-side terrace. On a Sunday, acclaimed local chef Ali Munro puts a southern American spin on a British roast by deep frying whole chickens and serving them with all the Sunday roast trimmings. During the week, order the chicken schnitt sando served in a homemade Japanese sub roll and the huge, hot and crispy buttermilk fried chicken wings. thewindmillbrighton.com The Pheasant, Shefford Woodlands, Berkshire As befits a rural pub a gentle canter from Lambourn in the so-called ‘Valley of the Racehorse’, The Pheasant has a strong racing theme and is frequented by riders and trainers alike. With a pint of Pheasant Ale, grab a table by the log fire and tuck into venison shepherd’s pie with piped whipped mash, parsnips and honey-roasted carrots; or roast pork with super-crisp skin, yorkshire pud, roast potatoes and a side of creamy cauliflower cheese. Leave a hole for the melt-in-the-mouth sharing tarte tatin served hot from oven and accompanied by two bowls of ice cream. thepheasant-inn.co.uk The Four Seasons, Hampshire Sunday lunch is served as a buffet affair at the Four Seasons Hampshire, and it's the perfect place to celebrate a special occasion with family or friends. The elegant dining room overlooks the rolling hills of the Hampshire countryside and the staff are warm and attentive. All of the food is as beautifully presented as it is plentiful, appetisers include oaky smoked salmon with capers and citrus-dill creme fraiche, delicately-sliced cured venison and asparagus and green bean salad with watercress, pine nuts and buttermilk dressing. Main courses include roasted dry-aged rib-eye roll, roasted whole chicken with lemon and rosemary and salt-crust baked stone bass to name but a few, pair with herb-roasted potato, honey-roasted root vegetables, and the fluffiest Yorkshire pudding. The buffet Sunday lunch costs £72 per adult. FourSeasonsHampshire.com _______________________________________________________________________________________ Cook House, Newcastle Since Anna Hedworth relocated the brilliant Cook House from its original shipping container to its much larger bricks-and-mortar venue, the extra space has allowed her to pull out all the stops for Sunday lunch. Creative dishes to be shared by the whole table include whole roast chicken stuffed with crème fraîche and lovage, or slow-roast lamb shoulder in a Moorish spice marinade. Rather than standard vegetable sides, Anna serves up salsa verde, giant couscous, pickled fennel and orange salad, aïoli and sweet cumin yogurt. Anna says: “I love seeing whole families sharing a chicken with someone standing up to carve.” cookhouse.org Asador 44, Cardiff “The Spanish do family eating as well as any place on Earth, so we wanted to replicate that, with added Welsh warmth of hospitality and lots of wine,” says Owen Morgan, co-owner of Asador 44 in the heart of Cardiff. One of the Sunday highlights at this Spanish grill restaurant is the 60-day, dry-aged, coal-roast rump of Hereford beef with roast potatoes, manteca yorkshire pudding (made using the spiced fat from ibérico ham, smoked morcilla and pancetta), charred purple-sprouting broccoli, and rioja and bone marrow gravy. For the veggies, there’s grilled cauliflower, jerusalem artichoke purée, capers and raisins. Ribs of beef on the bone, whole suckling pigs and legs of milk-fed Castilian lamb are also available to share. asador44.co.uk Hawksmoor, Edinburgh Bottomless jugs of thick, varnish-like bone marrow gravy, huge fluffy yorkies and a molassey sticky toffee pudding served with clotted cream – that’s what Sunday roast dreams are made of, and probably why this Scottish outpost serves up to 180 of them every week. Founders Will Beckett and Huw Gott say Sunday roasts are really about two things: memories and produce. “We have so many memories of meals with people we love dating right back to our childhood, and Sunday roasts were always a special occasion at our homes. A really great roast needs really great produce and Scotland is probably the best place in the world for that. One of our happiest times was travelling around the country meeting passionate farmers and eating amazingly well – the Hawksmoor Edinburgh Sunday roast is the result!” Also in London and Manchester. thehawksmoor.com The Woodsman, Stratford-upon-Avon From the open kitchen in the centre of this hotel restaurant, Mike Robinson and his chefs serve traditional Sunday roasts such as wood-fired bantam chicken with lemon, garlic and glazed carrots, or dry-aged Hereford beef picanha (a rump cap) for two cooked over local charcoal. The menu also includes plenty of wild game from the Midlands and Cotswolds, including the signature dish of braised, glazed shoulder of wild Gloucestershire roe deer with ‘dirty mash’ (pomme mousseline made with 50% butter and cream, and 50% potato, with shredded deer shoulder, herbs, crispy crumbs, venison gravy and Wiltshire truffle) for two. Mike says: “We focus on sharing dishes rather than a carvery-style lunch and this makes for precise and consistent cooking. Our in-house butchery means we use carcasses nose to tail, and our own deer larder in the Cotswolds means that all the venison served is harvested and prepared by us.” thewoodsmanrestaurant.com The Star Inn, Harome, North Yorkshire After cooking professionally for more than 30 years, Andrew Pern knows a thing or two about creating the perfect ambience for a proper Sunday lunch. A 14th-century pub-with-rooms in the chocolate box North Yorkshire Moors village of Harome, The Star focusses on using hyper-local produce, much of it grown in Andrew’s abundant kitchen garden. “Sunday lunch at The Star has become very much a place to celebrate all things ‘family’,” says Andrew. “Having been voted Best Sunday Lunch in the World by Lonely Planet, we have a lot to live up to, but with our open fires, low beams, wonky walls and thatched roof, The Star certainly sets the scene.” Of course, the Michelin-starred food helps, too, and Sunday menus include local game when it’s in season and a Yorkshire Pudding Royale which is stuffed with black truffle shavings and foie gras, and served with aged madeira gravy. thestaratharome.co.uk Red Lion Freehouse, East Chisenbury, Wiltshire A thatched pub tucked away in a remote part of Wiltshire, The Red Lion has been run by husband-and-wife chefs Guy and Brittany Manning for the past 11 years. The couple previously enjoyed a stellar career in the kitchens of notable restaurants both sides of the Atlantic – Guy worked at Chez Bruce in London and then at Thomas Keller’s three-Michelin-starred Per Se restaurant in New York, where he met pastry chef Brittany. Though it has its own Michelin star, the Red Lion is still very much a village pub where locals can pop in for a pint of Wiltshire-brewed beer from Three Daggers Brewery. A full menu runs alongside the Sunday roasts so expect roast Cornish turbot sitting alongside rump of Wiltshire beef with roast potatoes cooked in roast chicken and beef fat, roast veal chop and truffled mash or, if you’re lucky, slow-cooked pork from the pub’s own Saddleback pigs. redlionfreehouse.com Castle Farm, Midford, Bath A converted barn on a farm a short drive from central Bath, Pravin and Leah Nayar have certainly created something special at Castle Farm. On Sunday, it’s all about sharing platters down the middle of long tables so you can taste all the meat (42-day-aged rump of beef from local farmer Robin Pitkin, whole Castlemead chicken and roasted loin of Berkshire pork) with vegetables from the garden outside and “perfect” golden roasties. “You only have to look at his Instagram highlights to see he is literally obsessed about his roast potatoes,” says Leah of her husband’s meticulous attention to detail. Changing his potato of choice depending on the season, chef gives his spuds a long parboil, a proper drain and “a good shake so you get all the crispy bits”, before cooking in local Fussels rapeseed oil with herbs and garlic for the ultimate colour and texture. Leave room for classic desserts such as seasonal fruit crumble, and bread and butter pudding. castlefarmmidford.co.uk The White Horse, Haselbury Plucknett, Somerset With dried hops dangling from the high ceiling beams, sumptuous leather armchairs and Instagram-friendly pooches stretched out in front of the fireplaces, this 17th-century inn is very much the hub of the tiny (population of around 750) Somerset village of Haselbury Plucknett every Sunday. The welcome from owner Rebecca Robinson is as warm as the two crackling fires in the bar, while chef husband Richard (formerly at London’s Orrery and Prism at Harvey Nichols) concentrates on roasts so impressive that the pub was runner-up in the 2018 Observer Food Monthly Awards for Best Sunday Lunch. As well as three roasts, the pub serves a Sunday sharing board, which can feature roast chicken, nine-hour slow-cooked pork belly and roast 40-day, dry-aged beef with yorkshires, duck-fat roast potatoes and BBQ seasonal veg. thewhitehorsehaselbury.co.uk Words by Mark Taylor and Alex Crossley Photographs by Gareth Williams, Nigel John, Tim Martin, Owen Mathias, Jess Carter, David Griffen
The independent coffee scene is booming – let us introduce you to those leading the roasting revolution, from the Caravan coffee roasters to Assembly coffee in Brixton
Looking for the best coffee roasters? Coffee experts from the UK's best coffee roasters give us the lowdown on the independent coffee scene in the UK, from Caravan coffee roasters to the man behind The London Coffee Festival. If you want to try out some new coffees to roast each month, read about the best coffee subscriptions. Next, check out the best coffee beans, best moka pots and best coffee grinders to buy from our expert coffee contributor, Celeste Wong. Colonna Coffee, Wiltshire Highly regarded Colonna Coffee in Wiltshire is a roastery that has also devised its own compostable coffee capsules (there’s a coffee shop – Colonna & Small’s – in Bath, too). Colonna Coffee argues there’s plenty of science involved in creating the perfect cup. The roast is essentially a series of chemical reactions, with roasters altering the machinery to manipulate these reactions to accentuate the flavours they want to show in the bean and minimise those they don’t. The processing that the beans undergo can, therefore, produce a myriad of flavours in the final cup. Try it yourself: Try the Gigesa Grade 1 Washed, an Ethiopian coffee with promise of peachy sweetness, hints of melon and bergamot, and even black tea. colonnacoffee.com Hard Lines Coffee, Cardiff Known for its bright and playful branding, Cardiff-based roastery Hard Lines Coffee wants to keep the coffee scene looking fresh, fun and not too serious. Not only do bags of whole-bean and ground coffee look appealing, but it also sources sustainably, aiming to build long lasting relationships at origin. Staying clear of the sometimes-pretentious perception of speciality coffee, Hard Lines has a range of no-nonsense guides covering a wide net of brewing methods for curious coffee-drinkers, including how to Aeropress and how to make the perfect espresso martini. You can also subscribe to a monthly coffee club subscription, starting at £10 per month. hard-lines.co.uk Perky Blenders, East London Perky Blenders started operating as a small coffee cart outside St James’ Street station, but it’s now considered to be a staple of London’s bustling speciality coffee scene. The roaster was founded in 2015 by brothers Tom and Adam Cozens, along with Adam’s wife Victoria, with a shared aim of running a responsible, friendly and accessible to all roaster. Perky Blenders now runs four shops in the capital and has roasted coffee stocked at over 50 stores in the UK, with a booming subscription service to keep coffee-lovers caffeinated at home. This roaster is particularly keen to change the industry’s perception of being exclusive and snobbish, offering their advice to both coffee aficionados and curious beginners. Try it yourself: Perky Blender’s current coffee of the month baba budan, which you can purchase as a one-off or as a subscription, comes from India and boasts roasted nuts, chocolate, and red apple tasting notes. Alternatively, take your pick from their range of coffees including forest blend, single origin, acacia blend and sow blend. perkyblenders.com Hasbean, Stafford Hasbean prides itself on sourcing speciality coffee from around the world, supplying what it finds to coffee shops and coffee-drinkers through subscriptions on a constantly changing and seasonal schedule. Traveling the world in search of the best coffee, Hasbean hopes to share those flavours and make what it deems as remarkable coffee become more available and sustainable. Hasbean roasts coffee to order from its own roastery just outside the county town of Stafford, which is then delivered across the UK along with coffee brewing equipment and accessories. Hasbean's extensive range of subscriptions, where subscribers receive freshly roasted coffee on a weekly, fortnightly or monthly basis, spans whole beans, ground or green, with flavours changing seasonally and expertly blended into four unique flavour profiles. Try it yourself: A recent new coffee is the Yemen Sanani-Mahwiti Natural, a natural coffee from Yemen with nutmeg, brown sugar, cooked plum, prune and cinnamon tasting notes. hasbean.co.uk We Are Here, Margate Margate-based We Are Here likes to keep coffee uncomplicated. Instead of confusing customers with over-complicated coffee jargon, this roastery sells just three coffees, designed to be for three different ways coffee is enjoyed. You won’t find many details on the bags, other than a few descriptive ideas of how you like your coffee, whether that’s laid back, juicy or strong. This is not to say We Are Here ignores the importance of origin, how coffee is processed or who farmed it - they provide all those details here. It’s also worth noting that all coffee beans are specialty grade – the highest quality level of coffee available, and sustainably sourced. Coffee bags are split into ‘This one’, from Brazil and Peru, ‘That one’ from Brazil and ‘The other one’ from Guatemala, with each bag based on how you make the brew and if you take milk. By focusing on the primary reason for drinking coffee that is taste, We Are Here is eager to let customers be guided by their own personal preference. weareherecoffee.com Unorthodox Roasters, Scotland In 2015, Unorthodox Roasters founders Chris Bode and Neil Buchan spent over 10 months in major coffee producing countries in South and Central America. After spending time in Brazil, the pair were totally hooked on the process of coffee roasting and became only more interested as they travelled through Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Peru. All of this led them to opening their own coffee roastery when they returned to their homeland of Scotland. All coffees are single origin and sourced from plantations around the world – many of which they have personally visited – with CO2 neutral bags filled with beans from countries such as Myanmar, Nicaragua and Papua New Guinea. Try it yourself: For something a little different go for a bag of ‘Clockwork Ninja’, a Colombian coffee boasting soft fruity characters and a palpable toffee kick. unorthodoxroasters.co.uk Girls Who Grind Coffee, Wiltshire Wiltshire-based Girls Who Grind Coffee is an all-female, small-batch coffee roastery founded by Fi O'Brien and Casey LaLonde. After discussing their love of coffee and experiences within the industry, both felt that when it came to equality, there was a lot of room for improvement. In short, they decided to make the change they wanted to see themselves. GWGC focuses solely on sourcing speciality coffee from women producers, seeking out coffees that are creating positive change through the empowerment of women. GWGC roasts all coffee in small batches, using roasting technology which tracks all roasts so they can analyse quality as well as maintain consistency. To support coffee producers who struggle to make a living wage from its products, GWGC created its own initiative which puts 10% of the sale price of all its retail bags of roasted coffees back into the pockets of its producers. The roastery also sells stylish brew equipment, tees, mugs and more, all of which would make brilliant gifts for coffee-lovers. girlswhogrindcoffee.com Old Spike Coffee Roasters, Peckham Set up in 2015 in a small café in Peckham, Old Spike Roastery has a simple vision: to use coffee as a vehicle for change. The UK’s first social enterprise-cum-speciality coffee roastery, Old Spike, trains and employs homeless people across the business, whether they work in the café, assist in coffee production or deliver the coffee to wholesale customers. In terms of finding the right coffee, Old Spike sources speciality grade green coffee based on the principles of direct trade, quality and seasonality. The brand also works with producers that consistently supply the highest scoring coffees, as higher quality means a better price for the farmer (often 4-5 times higher than the Fairtrade minimum). Discover blends from China, Peru and Rwanda with flavour notes such as lemongrass, jasmine and dulce de leche. What’s more, 65% of Old Spike’s profits directly supports people experiencing homelessness, so you know that every bag of coffee purchased goes some way to ending homelessness in the UK. oldspikeroastery.com Easy José Coffee Roasters, Shepton Mallet Traceable, transparent, and ethical: these are the three pillars which lie at the core of Easy José’s business. This Shepton Mallet-based speciality coffee roaster is hailed for its ethical and sustainability sourcing model, one which works year after year with the same communities to maintain a long-term partnership. Easy José aims to source only the higher quality products in an honest and fair manner, continually taking steps to have a positive impact on the communities involved. For example, Easy José’s direct partnership with the indigenous Mayni Community in Peru allows the brand to help those people grow specialty coffee while protecting Rainforest biodiversity. Its investment in and support for the many communities in the area guarantees that it’s the only roaster able to buy these coffees, promising customers world exclusive coffee. Try it yourself: Try the Mayni Community’s Coffee for its chocolate, almond and honey notes, which you can buy for a range of grinds including cafetière, AeroPress and drip filter. easyjosecoffee.co.uk Ancoats Coffee Co, Manchester Housed in a former cotton mill, Ancoats Coffee Co has quickly established itself as one of the go-to places for coffee in the north-west. Owner Jamie Boland first experienced great coffee when he was sleeping on a friend’s sofa in Melbourne, where he found work as a barista. When he returned to Manchester, he decided to bring some of the Australian coffee culture back to the city by setting up his own business. Try it yourself: Set against the bare brick walls and iron pillars of the Royal Mills, try the appropriately named Warehouse City seasonal espresso roasted in small batches in the café itself. ancoats-coffee.co.uk Dear Green, Glasgow Glasgow roastery Dear Green runs training sessions for barista skills and sensory skills, as well as roasting exceptional coffee. Lisa Lawson (below) of Dear Green says bringing education to baristas not only adds value to its offering but also ensures that the product is executed with the same commitment to flavour, care and attention as the growers on the farms supplying the beans. As well as being a Living Wage employer, Dear Green has an ethical approach when it comes to coffee. Lawson believes it's important to have the same values throughout the supply chain: buying in some of the poorest countries in the world brings its own moral challenge. Dear Green buys coffee with a conscience, working with trusted importers who go to the farms, instead of being driven by their bottom line, which encourages purchasing non-traceable, low-quality coffee. Try it yourself: Although the house blend Goosedubbs is Dear Green’s biggest-selling product, lots of customers buy a subscription and wait for the weekly recommendation to arrive at their door. A recent favourite was the Kenyan Jokambu AB – sourced following a staff trip there this year. deargreencoffee.com Caravan Coffee Roasters, London Providing quality coffee is a key aspect to running Caravan Coffee Roasters. For Freda Yuan, head of quality control, a normal working day might see her drinking up to 40 cups, tasting the production roasts from the previous day to confirm the quality is up to standard and consistently maintained. Yuan is also a licensed Q grader – grading coffee based on its attributes like flavour, aroma, mouth-feel and acidity – which is the highest certification in the coffee industry (you need to pass 22 sensory exams in three days to prove you’re good enough). Try it yourself: Enjoy cups of Guatemalan Christian Rasch (with its “apricot, tangerine and white chocolate” notes) as roasted by Freda and her team at one of the Caravan restaurants in King’s Cross, Bankside or Exmouth Market. Don’t forget to order a slice of chocolate stout cake with chocolate caramel and burnt coffee cream while you’re at it. caravancoffeeroasters.co.uk Full Court Press, Bristol Outside of London, Bristol has one of the most flourishing coffee scenes in the UK, with a number of high-end coffee shops and roasteries. Central to the city’s scene is Mat North, who runs his own excellent coffee shop Full Court Press, where the choice of filter and espresso-based coffees changes every few days. One week it might be Ethiopian and Kenyan coffees, another week they may be from Yemen and Sumatra. North says that speciality coffee stores do what the chains do, however the quality of raw ingredient, the service and other factors are of a higher quality. For example, Full Court Press offers traceable coffees of high quality and pay good money for them, not unlike a good burger restaurant choosing high-quality beef. Having started his coffee career as a barista at Caffè Nero, North has worked both ends of the coffee industry, an experience that has helped him run his own place. In the heart of Bristol’s old banking district and law courts, North's tiny two-floor coffee shop offers two espresso coffees and two filters by a team of highly skilled baristas. fcpcoffee.com Assembly Coffee, Brixton Launched by Nick Mabey, a certified Q grader – the coffee world’s equivalent of being a qualified wine sommelier – and Michael Cleland at the London Coffee Festival in 2015, Brixton-based Assembly works closely with many of the UK’s best coffee shops, supplying delicious coffees such as Santa Theresa (from Panama) with its promised notes of rum and raisin and bourbon, Manuka honey and tropical fruits. For Mabey, it takes more than perfectly roasted beans to make a great cup of coffee. Mabey believes the people behind making or serving the coffee can enhance the experience, outside of the seemingly endless variations possible in flavour and profiles of the raw materials. assemblycoffee.co.uk Bean Shot Coffee, Somerset Tucked away on an industrial estate in the pretty Somerset town of Bruton, you’ll find Bean Shot Coffee’s roastery, barista school and coffee bar. Launched in 2013 by Australian Nick Law, Bean Shot Coffee produces speciality, ‘micro lot’ coffee, most of it sourced ‘direct trade’ from farmers. It roasts the highest-quality single-origin coffees and releases new coffees each month, with previous offerings from farms in Java, Honduras and Costa Rica. Since opening, Bean Shot Coffee has grown to supply outlets across the UK, the Middle East and Spain, as well as its own coffee shop in Sherbourne. Focussing on just coffee, coffee equipment and method, it was a brave move to open in the Dorset town, but Law says the reaction has been “superb”. beanshot.co.uk London Coffee London’s expanding coffee scene has been captured in a new book featuring the stories of the people and the places that created it. Written by Lani Kingston, author of the bestseller How to Make Coffee, and with stunning photography from Canadian lensman David Post, it takes the reader on a fascinating journey around the capital’s roasteries and coffee houses. From contemporary Scandinavian- style coffee houses to timeless Italian cafés passed down through the generations, the book looks at the city’s long love affair with the black stuff (£20, Hoxton Mini Press). Words | Mark Taylor Photography | GU Photography, Gavin Smart, Brian Sweene, Zsuzsa Zicho, Tom Sparey, Charlie Mckay If you want to spruce up your coffee knowledge, sign up to one of the UK's best barista courses and bag some barista skills.
Upskill from the comfort of your own home with the help of a virtual cookery school
Looking for the best online cooking course? Want to learn new cooking skills online from home? Try these expert-led options. Massimo Bottura – online Italian cooking course Italian chef Massimo Bottura’s daily #kitchenquarantine cookery demos and Q&A sessions on Instagram proved particularly popular during the global lockdown. The English-speaking 7pm livestreams from the kitchen of his family home regularly attracted more than 200,000 views for recipes such as tiramisu, ragu and even a decidedly non-Italian veggie-packed Thai curry. The chef-patron of three-Michelinstarred Osteria Francescana restaurant in Modena, has a series of Modern Italian sessions on MasterClass, which also features courses from renowned chefs Thomas Keller and Alice Waters, and pastry chef Dominique Ansel. Pay £85 for 12 lessons (including a downloadable class cookbook), or you can buy two site passes for £170, which gives you access to all chefs, and learn anything from simple pesto and pasta making, to risotto and zero-waste broth making good use of leftovers such as potato peelings and onion skins. masterclass.com Leiths – online cooking techniques course Since it was founded by Prue Leith back in 1975, Leiths has been a benchmark of cooking education, with famous alumni including celebrated food writer Diana Henry and Saturday Kitchen presenter Matt Tebbutt. With course fees for its renowned International Diploma in Food and Wine around the £20,000 mark, Leiths might not be in the budget of most home cooks but its online courses are far more affordable. The 24-week Essential Cooking Certificate costs £1,495. The course involves three hours per week of cooking as you follow step-by-step videos and upload photos of your work for feedback from your Leiths teacher. There’s also a six-week course for teens, costing £195, teaching knife skills, kitchen hygiene and family friendly dishes. For those who want to try out before committing, there’s a taster workshop available to download for just £9.99. leiths.com Slow Life Good Life – online food skills course Launched in April and inspired by recent events and the uncertain times ahead, Slow Life Good Life is an online community of South West-based chefs, gardeners, experts and producers, including Gill Meller, Naomi Devlin and goat meat producer James Whetlor of Cabrito. Whether it’s sitting (albeit virtually) at Gill’s kitchen table while he demonstrates how to make pasta at home; learning how to choose thrifty meat cuts with River Cottage’s Steven Lamb; or watching former Borough Market demo chef Luke McKay create a budget-friendly storecupboard feast, there is a vast range of skills and expert advice available for just over £5 a month. Even better is the fact that all proceeds go towards feeding families and supporting small rural businesses affected by current events. slowlifegoodlife.com Delia online – online home cooking course “My ambition and dream is that anyone who wants to learn to cook can.” So says British cookery doyenne Delia Smith, who launched her online school in 2013. Access to recipes and videos is free, and step-by-step instructions are clear and precise, as is the trademark Delia style. The course is split into five ‘terms’ – bakes, eggs, pastry, bread, rice and pasta – as well as techniques and basics. Whether it’s the perfect coffee and walnut sponge cake, lasagne al forno or how to make a vinaigrette dressing, the recipes are aimed at home cooks of all levels. deliaonline.com Martha De Lacey – online baking course Journalist turned private caterer, baker and chef Martha de Lacey has built up a loyal following for her east London supperclubs, and sourdough and fermentation workshops, but since Covid-19 she has gained an even wider audience for her online classes. Martha’s #TheMuffKitchen Instagram subscription e-course is updated daily with recipes, videos and tutorials. Martha shares her recipes for sourdough, as well as as well as starter crackers, ‘trash’ crumpets and waffles. To sign up, purchase a one-off joining fee (£60) via her website and then choose a subscription option – £5 or £10 a month, depending on how much you can afford. marthadelacey.com Learning With Experts – online expert skills courses Learning with Experts features a number of high-quality courses covering a wide range of subjects but when it comes to food there’s the likes of Paul A Young teaching the art of chocolate making, and foraging with Miles Irving. Look out for BBC Good Food’s Cassie Best’s essential skills for home cooks course (£109) to nail basic knife skills, cooking and preparing fish and seafood, making curries and dahls, and baking. Trained at Leiths School of Food and Wine, and now a senior food editor, Cassie brings years of experience to the course and participants have access to personal feedback, group chat with fellow classmates, and receive a certificate at the end of it. learningwithexperts.com London Art College – online food art course If drawing food appeals as much as cooking it, try one of the London Art College’s online diploma courses. The Botanical Coloured Pencil Art Course teaches you about the anatomy of plants as well as looking at tonal drawing and pen and ink skills when drawing plants, flowers and fruits. The course (£306) is a written one which students work through, and assignments are uploaded or posted to the college and the tutor provides feedback and advice. londonartcollege.co.uk Lorna Wing – online cookery course for teenagers The lockdown may have curtailed school and college terms for students heading off to uni in the autumn but that doesn’t mean they can’t learn vital cookery skills at home over the summer. Food consultant and caterer Lorna Wing’s online courses are principally aimed at tech-savvy teenagers and students, who send photos of their creations and then get personalised feedback from Lorna via WhatsApp. The courses also encourage students to cook with their friends by signing up for the courses together and using FaceTime, Zoom or Houseparty to make their learning more interactive. Duke of Edinburgh’s Award students can also use Lorna’s DofE-approved Introductory and Intermediate Courses to gain their Bronze, Silver or Gold Awards. The cost for one student is £150 or £125 each for two students booking together. For every teen who signs up during the coronavirus crisis, Lorna will make donations to charities Mind, Wandsworth Foodbank and The Silver Line. lornawingcookery.co.uk
Salted caramel and prosecco are out, seacuterie, crackling and faux fish are in. Consider this your official guide to eating and drinking in the coming year
Looking for new restaurants and the latest foodie trends? Here are our top picks for food trends for 2020… Seacuterie This is a new word to familiarise yourself with as aged and cured fish is going to be big this year. Japanese sushi chefs have long used curing techniques to enhance texture and flavour in fish and seafood but we’ll see much more of it in restaurants. One of the trailblazers is Australian ‘gill-to-fin’ chef Josh Niland, whose best-selling The Whole Fish Cookbook embraces the hanging, dry-aging and curing of fish – hear more from Josh on episode 174 of the olive magazine podcast here. He’s not the only one. In London, Tom Brown is serving bresaolas and salamis of monkfish, salmon and cuttlefish at Cornerstone, and Portuguese chef Leandro Carreira is using a bespoke fish ageing cabinet at Chelsea seafood bar and fishmonger The Sea, The Sea. Carreira uses a range of fish for ageing, from gilthead bream to Cornish garfish and ages different fish for different periods of time. He says: “We have found that fish with a high content of oils and round fish have the best results. Depending on the species and size, we hang fish for four to 12 days. Sourcing high-quality fish is the key to achieving firmer flesh, meatier texture and long-lasting flavour with extended umami notes.” As well improving texture and flavour, ageing fish means you can extend its life, which also ticks the box for reducing food waste. Posh sarnies The days of dry, drab sarnies curling at the edges are over thanks to a swell of premium sandwich joints opening around the UK. From Tou (of ‘egg mayo and katsu sando’ fame) in London to Pinkmans Bakery in Bristol (which served its savoury buns at the Best of British Fair 2019 in Japan, where it represented the UK), posh sandwiches packed with high-quality ingredients are all the rage. At Sons + Daughters in London’s Coal Drops Yard, the bestseller is chicken but it’s not any old chicken sarnie. “It’s made with beautiful Swaledale chicken, crispy skin, soy-cured parmesan, garlic oil, green sauce, miso mayonnaise, Gem lettuce and wasabi cress… it’s pretty epic,” says owner James Ramsden. Run by Natasha Ferguson and Matt Belcher, Alby’s in Leith prides itself on “big hot sandwiches” such as the braised Highland beef short rib cooked in gravy, horseradish mayo, red sauerkraut, parsnip crisps and rocket; and the calamari, squid-ink aïoli, fried capers and Iceberg sandwich. And lest we forget the sandwich king, Max Halley, of Max’s Sandwich Shop in London’s Crouch End – who reignited our love for the finger food with his egg, ham and chip sarnie, made with slow-cooked ham hock, fried egg, piccalilli, shoestring fries and malt vinegar mayo. Recreate his masterpieces at home with his book Max’s Sandwich Book: The Ultimate Guide to Creating Perfection Between Two Slices of Bread, or click here for exclusive recipes from Max (including a Boxing Day sandwich that is good anytime of the year) and podcast episode 100 to hear from the man himself. Reducing packaging The campaign to reduce plastic packaging has gathered momentum since the BBC’s Blue Planet II two years ago and, whether it’s carrying around a reusable water bottle or buying paper or metal straws, lots of us are doing our bit and more than 50% of consumers have reduced the amount of disposable plastic they use. One trend is the rise of low-waste stores that encourage us to BYOC (‘bring your own container’) and use refill stations to cut out single-use plastic. Waitrose & Partners successfully trialled its Unpacked refill section at its Oxford Botley Road store and it has expanded to four other branches. The Unpacked aisle features refill stations for dry goods, frozen fruit, beer and wine. Waitrose & Partners has pledged that, by 2023, all own-label packaging will be widely recycled, reusable or home-compostable. It has already introduced the world’s first compostable, fibre-based ready-meal tray and it is removing the plastic wrapping from multi-packed baked beans, tinned tomatoes and sweetcorn, which it says will save 18 tonnes of plastic annually. Clean Kilo in Birmingham brands itself as a zero-waste, plastic-free supermarket with the motto “weigh, fill, reweigh, pay”, and frozen food specialist Field Fare, which supplies 400 farm shops, garden centres, butchers and delis, has a range of 80-odd ‘loose-serve’ items, including fruit, vegetables and patisserie products, which continues to expand year on year. Cooking with hay No longer just for horses or the rabbit hutch, hay is now being regularly used as an economical and delicious ingredient by innovative chefs across the UK. “Hay has a wonderful, toasted caramel and vanilla flavour, and when paired with chocolate tastes like Maltesers,” says Imogen Davis, the co-founder of Native, a modern British restaurant in Borough Market where a hay panna cotta appears on the menu. Richard Craven, at The Royal Oak at Whatcote in the Cotswolds, uses hay in a number of ways, from a hay-infused custard with strawberries macerated in elderflower, to using it to smoke rare-breed Cotswold hogget. And at Rothay Manor in the Lake District, Dan McGeorge bakes leeks in hay for an English rose veal dish, and as an ingredient in an ice cream. He says: “Cooking with hay is actually a centuries-old European technique and a century ago most rural homes used hay box cookers because they were efficient and above all a low-cost kitchen tool. Hay works because it brings earthy and grassy notes to a dish, regardless of whether it’s sweet or savoury. It can bring out the sweetness in pears while complementing their natural flavour, and it can also enhance the flavour of a range of meats and vegetables, adding subtly of flavour to a dish.” Look out for it on a menu near you. Mental health matters Not so much a trend but more a fundamental shift in thinking that we at olive wholeheartedly endorse – here’s hoping 2020 will see more professional kitchens adopting better practices when it comes to looking after the physical and mental well-being of their staff. There has already been a move by a number of high-profile restaurants to reduce hours and restaurant opening days to improve the work/life balance for chefs. Sat Bains introduced a four-day week at his eponymous restaurant a few years ago, and other top establishments have done the same, including Paul Kitching’s 21212 restaurant in Edinburgh, which opens Wednesday to Saturday. Reducing hours can mean the owners taking a financial hit but it can mean three full days off for the chefs, more quality time with their families and it improves morale, which is better for staff retention. It’s not just about improving the hours – olive Chef Awards winner Tommy Banks has four-day working patterns, family-friendly hours for older and more experienced staff, and weekly check-ins regarding anxiety and diet to make sure his team are okay. Pilot Light was founded by chef Andrew Clarke of St Leonards restaurant in Shoreditch (listen to episode 164 of the podcast here for more from Andrew) after being brutally honest on social media about his own depression and addiction. The campaign helps individuals in crisis and works with restaurants, hotels and suppliers to raise mental-health awareness, and with bespoke training packages, free of charge. One of the long-established charities for the industry is Hospitality Action, which has observed an upward trend in mental-health-related referrals, according to its marketing director, Jeremy Gibson. “In 2019 we saw a 19% increase in cases relating to a mental-health problem but over the past couple of years we have noticed that more hospitality workers, including chefs, have felt able to open up about a mental-health problem and discuss it with their boss.” Jeremy says Hospitality Action is spearheading an industry-wide campaign to break the taboo that still surrounds talking about one’s mental health, particularly in men. It has launched a website with factsheets and videos to give employers the confidence to be receptive to calls for help and to help signpost them to professionals who can help. The latest platform for chefs and others in the industry is Hospitality Speaks, which was launched at the end of 2019 by journalist Victoria Stewart. The not-for-profit website features anonymous stories of toxic behaviour in the hospitality industry, interviews with ‘people pioneers’ about how they create supportive working cultures and a support page listing organisations, networks and helplines that people can access for advice. Victoria says: “It’s really important that people understand the range of these troubling experiences but the real beauty of this initiative is in the powerful and positive stories of progress, of an urgent desire to shake up an age-old industry that has got stuck in its ways. I hope it becomes a catalyst for positive change within the hospitality industry.” Premium functional soft drinks So-called ‘functional’ soft drinks continue to rise in popularity. Okay, they may be a bit more expensive than mainstream energy drinks but people are happy to pay that little bit extra when they contain high-quality and specialist ingredients such as CBD. More importantly, they taste good, too. Look out for brands such as Equinox Organic Kombucha Pink Grapefruit & Guava, and Good Hemp’s new CBD Barista Seed Milk. Salted honey is the new salted caramel We wouldn’t want to deprive you of salted caramel in all of its glorious forms but 2020 may see it usurped by salted honey. Nigella makes a fantastic salted honey pie, as does influential American food writer David Lebovitz, and regular olive contributor Edd Kimber loves the stuff (try his tahini shortbread cookies with salted honey ganache). Make your own (click here for more salted honey recipes) or hunt down brands such as Bees Knees, which makes bottles of wildflower honey infused with sea salt. Immersive foodie breaks In 2020 it will be all about food trips that are more in-depth and hands-dirtying than traditional cooking holidays. If you’re a fan of adventures, start researching producer-related trips where you learn cooking, kitchen gardening or artisanal skills, perhaps in a remote cabin that offers unique add-ons for hands-on foodies. Juniper-free botanical spirits The gin bubble hasn’t quite burst but the more innovative distillers will be looking beyond juniper-flavoured spirits this year. Ketel One has already set the pace with its juniper-free Botanical brand, a spirit distilled with botanicals and infused with natural fruit essences such as peach and orange blossom, and grapefruit and rose. Tapping into the lower-alcohol trend, the Botanical range is also bottled at 30% ABV. Similarly, Edinburgh distillers collective Sweetdram has produced its own version of an old French liqueur. At 34% ABV, it features notes of caraway, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, coriander, green anise, lemon, liquorice, sweet and bitter orange, nutmeg, star anise and vanilla. It says it tastes like “caraway butter on cardamom buns with a tall glass of tropical diluting juice” and we’re not arguing with that. New to the market is a non-alcoholic botanical spirit inspired by plants native to the Cornish coastline: Pentire is made in Port Isaac by former surf instructor Alistair Frost who says he wanted to “bottle the coastal experience”. Pentire includes a blend of ingredients such as rock samphire, sea purslane, sage and sea rosemary. It’s already on the drinks lists of Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, Prawn on the Lawn, and Paul Ainsworth at Number 6. The rise of Sri Lankan food When it opened three years ago, Hoppers in Soho kick-started a new wave of contemporary Sri Lankan restaurants in the UK. The Coconut Tree mini chain of street-food restaurants is already expanding rapidly with sites in Cheltenham, Oxford, Cardiff, Bournemouth and two in Bristol. Kolamba in Soho’s Kingly Street is also making an impression with its tantalising combination of Sinhalese, Tamil, Moor, Dutch and Malay dishes, including sambals, string hoppers, patties and pineapple curry (see page 73 for recipes to try at home). And we predict more to come in 2020, starting with Paradise, a new Soho restaurant from Dom Fernando. Chef Charith Priyadarshana uses seasonal British produce and Sri Lankan ingredients in dishes such as mutton rolls with fermented chilli sauce and slow-roasted pork cheek with tamarind and Sri Lankan stout. Vegetable and fruit ketchups Tomato ketchup simply doesn’t cut the mustard these days. At Bath’s Landrace Bakery, the team makes seasonal fruit ketchups depending on what arrives in the kitchen, often from local growers who have surplus produce from their allotments and smallholdings – try quince ketchup in a bacon and egg milk bun. Gareth Ward (who bagged himself an olive Chef Awards gong last month) serves shiitake ketchup with slow-cooked Japanese wagyu beef ribs at his Michelin-starred restaurant, Ynyshir, in Wales. And it’s not just restaurants keeping up with this condiment trend. Award-winning online heritage-breed butchers Farmison & Co in North Yorkshire has launched a spiced cranberry ketchup which goes brilliantly with cold roast or cured meats, and Tom Kerridge’s online shop has also launched a range of bottled ketchups including black garlic, chipotle barbecue and (our fave) gherkin. Root to shoot In much the same way Fergus Henderson championed ‘nose-to-tail’ cooking that used the whole animal, a growing army of chefs are now looking at ‘root-to-shoot’ dishes that utilise every part of fruits, vegetables and herbs. Chef Tom Hunt, whose debut cookery book, The Natural Cook: Eating the Seasons from Root to Fruit, came out in 2014, releases his follow up this March, Eating for Pleasure, People & Planet, which will focus on shopping and cooking sustainably, while eating healthier, better-tasting food at no extra cost (to your wallet or the environment). The chef, who co-founded low-waste restaurant, Poco, also recently announced that it will only serve high-welfare, zero-carbon meat (such as offal, waste cuts, culled wild animals including squirrel, crayfish and muntjac deer). Down the road in Bristol, chef Mark Chapman has adopted a similar philosophy at Masa + Mezcal, where the plant-based menu is packed with dishes made from the likes of vegetable skins, leaves and tips that might normally go in the bin. These include potato peelings (blanched and deep-fried to make crisps on the fish dishes or tostada fillings), coriander (the leaves are chopped and used in crudo dishes and sauces, the stalks are used alongside the leaves to make dressings) and hibiscus (they hydrate dried petals to make a dressing and dry the rehydrated hibiscus leaves which are fried into crisps for a cabbage salad). At Haar in St Andrews, Dean Banks runs a zero-waste kitchen where examples of ‘root to shoot’ range from oils made from the tops of spring onions to cabbage trimmings used to make kimchi. Homemade aperitifs From the salted grapefruit soda served at London’s Bubala to the plum, tonka and fig leaf old fashioned on the drinks list at The Ethicurean in Somerset, homemade aperitifs are certainly on the rise across the UK. Northumberland restaurant Hjem has a juice menu curated by chef Alex Nietosvuori and sommelier Anna Frost. They work together to develop an offering that reflects the seasons and the produce available locally – the juices are made predominantly with produce foraged or grown around the restaurant. Juices currently on the menu include autumn squash, chanterelle tea and rye butter, and apple and hay. At The Black Swan in Oldstead, James Banks has created a range of seasonal libations, including pink gooseberry tonic, raspberry shrub and a rhubarb and woodruff infusion. He has even created a lemonade flavoured with Douglas fir. “We wanted to find a way of using local produce to re-create those amazing citrus flavours we all know and love. Young springtime shoots from the Douglas fir tree give an amazing zingy grapefruit flavour and leaves from our lemon verbena add an intense sherbet hit. Acidity is added in the form of Bramley apple juice.” Holiday hot spots Want to discover the next foodie hot spot on your travels this year? Head to eastern Europe and the Caucasus, which we predict will see a surge of interest in 2020, especially Romania, Ukraine and Georgia, thanks to the popularity of social-media-friendly food writers including Irina Georgescu (her cookbook Carpathia: Food From the Heart of Romania is out in March 2020) and Ukrainian chef Olia Hercules. If you care as much about the post-rave munchies as the music, then Ibiza is where it’s (still) at. Head to Casa Maca for celebrity-spotting dinners featuring spicy sobrasada, alongside flame-grilled meat and veg; and Es Boldadó for clams bathed in local white wine. Affordable flights to Latvian capital Riga will enhance its reputation as an up-and-coming foodie destination, too, while Bali resorts Ubud and Seminyak are gaining in popularity for their culture and food as much as their natural beauty. Waste not, want not With 40% of British-grown fruit and veg discarded before it even reaches the shelves because it’s deemed too ugly, or the wrong shape or size, more chefs and home cooks are using produce which might otherwise have gone to waste. Ethically savvy organisations such as Waste Knot, Food Chain and Feast Fairly are coming to the fore, delivering imperfect or hard-to-sell produce to the restaurant industry and the public alike. Church Road restaurant in Barnes, London, works closely with these companies, and others including Nature’s Choice, FloGro Fresh, Lake District Farmers, Flying Fish and Wild Room, who supply ethically sourced and grown produce from fruit and veg to fish, shellfish and meat. Church Road’s Little Sprouts menu is a celebration of seasonal, produce that might be imperfect looking but packed with flavour. Co-proprietor and chef Phil Howard says: “We’re determined to show consideration to the welfare of the world and the animals that we share it with. After more than three decades in the industry, I see more changes today than ever before. Now we have a chance to make a real difference to the planet and working with companies like Jess Latchford’s Waste Knot helps us achieve a much lower carbon footprint and higher awareness of the direction in which we should be going.” At Spring in Lancaster Place, Skye Gyngell’s pre-theatre Scratch menu creates dishes made from ‘waste’ such as beetroot tops and potato skins, left-over cheese and day-old bread. At Nottingham’s Small Food Bakery, baker Kim Bell goes above and beyond when it comes to using everything that arrives in the kitchen, including making molasses out of apples instead of sugar and even using dried pot marigold petals to supplement pricey home-grown saffron. Check out ‘rescue’ fruit/veg box schemes near you, including Wonky Veg Boxes, Oddbox, Riverford and Morrisons stores. Crackling snacks For decades dominated by knubbly bits of fatty pork skin of indeterminate provenance, crackling is enjoying a makeover that elevates it way beyond its pub-snack status. Wilding’s is a Wiltshire-based company run by former chef Adam Wilding and his partner, Polly. These bags of gourmet crackling include peking duck flavour, smoked sea salt and kampot pepper, and habanero chilli and lemongrass. As well as being deliciously moreish, these high-protein snacks are gluten-free. Seasoned with natural flavours, they are ideal for people who follow low-carb and high-fat keto and paleo diets. Also from Wiltshire is Little Bobby Jebb’s Original Chicken Crackling made using Grade-A/Red Tractor British chicken skins. Sold as a snack, it is also appearing on restaurant menus. Michelin-star chef Simon Hulstone of The Elephant restaurant in Torquay has created various dishes with the chicken crackling, including roasted Crediton chicken breast, crushed chicken crackling and pine nuts, with wild mushrooms and lemon and thyme. And if you still crave a crackling pub snack, the chicken skin with hot sauce and blue cheese served at Loyal Tavern in Bermondsey, London, is hard to beat. Prosecco loses its fizz Prosecco still has its fans but more discerning drinkers are looking to alternative sparkling wines. These include crémant (French sparklers made outside the sacred Champagne region) and even proper champers itself thanks to the number of great bargains on the supermarket shelves. Closer to home, sales of English sparklers are on the increase as the likes of Coates & Seely in Hampshire and Sussex vineyard Nyetimber prove UK producers can match anything from the other side of the Channel. No/low-alcohol drinks Most of us start the new year with promises of reducing our alcohol intake but there is now an all-year-round trend of cutting down, if not giving up completely. Drinks expert Fiona Beckett’s new book, How to Drink Without Drinking, is an invaluable guide to making booze-free drinking delicious. According to Whole Foods Market, botanical-infused ‘faux spirits’ and hops-infused sparkling waters are the way to go, with examples including Detroit’s Käter Wingman electrolyte-infused sparkling lime water and Run Wild’s non-alcoholic ‘session’ IPA made with a blend of five hops. Alternatively, you could visit one of the Hawksmoor restaurants in London, Manchester and Edinburgh to try its first new cocktail list for a decade. Created by Liam Davy, Nick Strangeway and the Hawksmoor bartenders, there’s an increased range of non-alcoholic drinks, including Mother Mule made with Mother Root, a ginger drinking vinegar made in south London. Conscious travel We can’t be the only ones with an increased appetite for more sustainable travel – think foodie city breaks taken by train rather than plane. olive’s travel editor, Rhiannon Batten, reckons we should all be more conscious when choosing where to travel: “Think about trips that are socially responsible as well as environmentally, so staying in small, independently owned guesthouses and learning to cook heritage recipes with ‘pasta grannies’. It’s about getting off the beaten track, rather than swamping places that are suffering from over-tourism, and eating at small neighbourhood restaurants that use local ingredients and regional recipes, as well as wine bars that focus on local natural wines.” Click here for loads of inspirational ideas. Faux fish When he turned vegan, chef Gaz Oakley, aka Avant Garde Vegan, missed fish and chips so much that he recreated it using tofu (for the fish element) and nori (for the skin). Since then, faux fish has become something of a trend, appearing anywhere from gastropubs to supermarket aisles. Sutton and Sons, a vegan chip shop with three sites in London, makes faux fish and chips using banana blossom that’s been marinated in seaweed and samphire before being deep-fried in batter. Bristol-based Cosy Club chain won Best Vegan Fish at the PETA Vegan Food Awards for its crispy battered tofu with minted mushy garden peas and creamy tartare sauce. Linda McCartney’s vegetarian scampi bites (made from rehydrated textured soya and wheat protein) are a regular feature in supermarket chill cabinets, as are Vivera’s Plant Fish Fillet. Willem Van Weede of Vivera says: “People are waking up to the fact that eating less meat is better for the planet and that goes for fish, too. Overfishing is a serious environmental concern and we’re continuing our commitment to providing consumers with high-quality, great-tasting, plant-based alternatives.” From this month, Sainsbury’s is also launching its own Fishless Fingers. Words by Mark Taylor Photographs by Lizzie Mayson, Dominika Kubalova, Polly A Baldwin, Getty Images, Andrew Hayes Watkins
We reveal the talented winners making a difference to the way we eat, across the UK
Returning for their second year, the olive Chef Awards are all about celebrating your local food heroes. Back in the summer, you voted in your droves for those chefs having a positive impact on the food you eat, the communities you live in, and even (in the case of the sustainable star) the planet as a whole. We whittled those down to a sterling shortlist of 30, all of who deserve a massive pat on the back. Support them with your business (they’re worth it, trust us) and enjoy plenty of their recipes, restaurant reviews, podcasts, interviews and more. Our esteemed judges – Samyukta Nair, Zoe Adjonyoh, Mark Taylor and editor Laura Rowe – have spent the past couple of months travelling the country, meeting these great chefs, tasting their food and learning their stories. These are the winners they selected… Best baker Winner: Aidan Monks, Lovingly Artisan, Kendal, Cumbria “Bread with northern soul” is the fitting tagline for Lovingly Artisan, an eight-year-old business occupying a converted barn at Kendal in the heart of the Lake District. This community bakery is run by Aidan Monks, who has been baking sourdough for 30 years and specialises in naturally leavened sourdough made from stone-ground heritage grains from Gilchesters Organics located two miles north of Hadrian’s Wall. All breads are fermented for at least 24 hours and award-winning flavours include cheese and chilli, and Kalamata olive. What started with a domestic oven and small mixer at home has grown into a thriving business, and Lovingly Artisan supplies high-profile restaurants such as Moor Hall and The Forest Side, as well as selling over the counter in Kendal and at markets in Altrincham. Aidan says the growing awareness of sourdough’s health benefits has helped the business’s growth – heritage grains contain twice as many vitamins and minerals as modern varieties. One of the most popular sourdoughs is made using emmer grains and kombucha, the acidity of which aids the quality of the dough and the additional nutrients and minerals. He says: “Heritage grains bring taste and flavour, and the flour is never the same because it’s milled on the farm, so weather affects it and water percentage varies. We have to change everyday to react to the flour, so maintaining a consistent product is the skill. You never know until it comes out of the oven but that’s what makes it so engaging and why we are constantly chasing perfection.” lovinglyartisan.com Head judge Laura Rowe says: The strength of this category, standalone for the first time this year, was staggering but it was Aidan’s experience and knack for flavours – from an umami-bomb of cheese and Marmite, to a sweet spiced apple – that really shone for us. Aidan’s also just announced new full-day Sunday sourdough workshops for 2020 in Kendal and Altrincham, for just £95 (plus VAT). Best pastry chef Winner: Mark Perkins, Rosewood, London WC1 With a painter for a father and a mother into the crafts, it was probably inevitable that pastry chef Mark Perkins would one day combine his skills with the art world. His award-winning contemporary afternoon teas served in the elegant Mirror Room at London’s stylish Rosewood hotel are currently being inspired by the work of acclaimed British sculptor Sir Antony Gormley, most famous for his Angel of the North sculpture in Gateshead. Three months in the planning, chef’s latest art-inspired menus are a collaboration with the Royal Academy and the Tate. As well as exquisite scones topped with Cornish clotted cream, homemade jams and lemon curd, there are creative sandwiches such as coronation chicken on turmeric bread with a Sri Lankan twist to reflect Gormley’s Buddhist learnings. The Gormley-inspired afternoon tea menu features Mark’s own colourful drawings based on what he’s made and he also works closely with a photographer to see how best the food is presented. His intricate and playful pastries include Body and Fruit (ceylon tea chocolate mousse, mandarin jelly, praline crémeux, hazelnut financier and a chocolate coating) and the Full Bowl (chocolate sponge, cherry compote, whipped white chocolate and vanilla cream, sprayed chocolate), all presented on specially designed stands with equal attention to detail. rosewoodhotels.com/en/london Head judge Laura Rowe says: In another new standalone category, it was Mark’s playful tribute to some of the world’s greatest artists (previous menus have been inspired by Banksy, Rodin and Van Gogh) that impressed us most: cooking and culture colliding in a beautiful afternoon tea experience that London can be proud of. Veggie pioneer Joint winner: Henrietta Inman, Stoney Street, London SE1 After her successful residency at Yardarm in Leyton earlier this year, pastry chef and gardener Henrietta Inman has taken her vegetable-focussed food to Stoney Street, the second opening from 26 Grains owner Alex Hely-Hutchinson. Henrietta’s love of seasonal fruits and vegetables, wholefoods and natural ingredients was shaped by a childhood spent in the idyllic Suffolk countryside, where she now lives and grows her own produce. Trained at The Lanesborough hotel in London, Henrietta went on to work in a number of notable kitchens for five years before starting her own catering and teaching business. Her cooking is centred around the basic principles of soft, crunchy, acidic and creamy – a mantra that crops up in every dish, whether it’s Aztec broccoli, whipped ricotta, smoked and popped quinoa, black chilli and salsa verde; or apple and carrot cake using five different apple varieties and served with quince custard flavoured with hyssop. For Henrietta, colour, vibrancy and freshness have equal importance, and that’s why they steer the menu. Her focus is on food that’s “alive and living”, and she goes out of her way to innovate and push the boundaries in terms of offering vegetarian dishes with a deep sense of textures. With two baking books already published and all eyes on new launch Stoney Street, Henrietta says her ultimate dream is still to have a restaurant with a garden and an education centre. Henrietta Iman Head judge Laura Rowe says: Henrietta had been quietly excelling from her small kitchen in Leyton when she got nominated and she seriously impressed on our visit, where she cooked a sneak peak of her Stoney Street menu from her family home. Not only do her veggie-centric plates look beautiful but they taste great, too, and she’s a major champion of UK farmers and producers. Joint winner: Bindu Patel, Sanctua, Leicester After years of studying law and farming, Leicester-born Bindu Patel then swapped lecture theatres for professional kitchens, gaining experience at Gymkhana and Trishna in London. In April 2019, Bindu realised her dream of opening her own low-waste, sustainable vegan restaurant when she launched Sanctua back in her home city. With its plant-based menu, the fusion food at Sanctua has a global influence that reflects Bindu’s background (Bindu has a Kenyan coffee farmer father and Malaysian mother) and also the multicultural city of Leicester. Asian in style, the seasonal dishes might fuse with Italian or Spanish. Typical dishes on the fortnightly changing menu includes an amuse-bouche of bonfire-smoked toffee apple chilli and rosemary cheesecake with an oat, hazelnut crumb, and a main course of vegetable, chickpea and coconut Bombay potato hotpot served with garlic butter naan and tarka green beans. Although a vegan herself, she didn’t open her restaurant specifically aimed at vegans, just people who appreciate really good food. “I wanted to show that vegan food can be really exciting and adventurous without compromise,” says Bindu, who proves you can achieve incredible textures and flavours from humble vegetables and herbs. sanctua.co.uk Head judge Laura Rowe says: We really couldn’t believe Bindu’s dishes didn’t contain ghee and meaty stocks. She really understands how to deliver flavour – through rounded, well-balanced spicing – as well as texture, whether that be a crisp onion bhaji on top of a velvety, fiery, tangy tomato rasam soup, or an oaty crumble on a smooth quenelle of ‘cheese’ cake. Leicester is lucky to have her back. Community champion Winner: Rachel Stonehouse, Luminary Bakery, London N16 Founded by Alice Williams, Luminary Bakery is a social enterprise bakery based in east London which provides opportunities for disadvantaged women to learn new skills to find employment in the food industry. Head baker and trainer Rachel Stonehouse started working for Luminary five years ago. She was only 18 when she gave up a place at university to do an unpaid internship at the bakery, raising enough money from friends to live in London for a year to work in the bakery for free. It was Rachel’s passion for social justice, particularly for women in poverty, combined with a love of baking that inspired her to get involved with Luminary, which has made a huge difference to the women who have graduated. Luminary runs six-month employability training schemes for women who have experienced an array of different issues, often homelessness, domestic violence, working in the sex trade or prison. Many of the women arrive with low skills and confidence but they are happy to find a safe and supportive environment. Luminary places emphasis on being a supportive and caring community, breaking down barriers and simultaneously building each other up. The courses teach a range of baking techniques and transferable skills. Some of the women have never baked before, so they start with basic skills such as making brownies and cookies, and then move on to layer cakes, bread, pastry and desserts. By the end, they are making advanced pastries such as éclairs. At the end of the six months there is a graduation ceremony for the women and their friends and family, and they get the Level 2 Food Hygiene qualification. Each graduate is assigned a Progression Support Worker and a mentor to help them with the next stage of their journey into work, and also to help them become independent. Sixty-six women have already graduated – some of them have gone on to work in well-known restaurants and bakeries, and some have set up businesses of their own. Luminary has just opened a second site in Camden, so there will be twice the number of graduates next year, as well as a cookbook, proceeds from which will go back into the business. As well as serving a range of delicious cakes in their bakery café, this is a business that has made a huge social impact on the lives of the women as well as the community at large. Rachel says: “In cohesion with the training, holistic support and opportunities we provide, Luminary gives some of London’s most disadvantaged women a community to be a part of. One woman, six weeks into the course, said that we were like her family.” luminarybakery.com Head judge Laura Rowe says: What stood out most about Rachel was her commitment to others, above herself, from such a young age. This is a woman in food that is feeding bodies and souls with her delicious bakes. Best street-food chef Winner: Robert Radoni, The Gorilla Kitchen, Brighton, Worthing & Steyning Robert Radoni spent three decades as a chef in high-profile hotels and restaurants across Europe and in London. Born to French-Italian parents, he grew up around food and started cooking in Calabria at just 14 years old. When Robert saw some of the terrible versions of pizza being made around the UK, he was inspired to start his own street-food business (even if his first two wives didn’t agree). It was his current partner, Fiona Heselgrave, who encouraged him to follow his dream. Fiona had experience of trading on markets and they converted a shipping container on wheels into a kitchen with a wood-fired pizza oven. The Gorilla Kitchen moves between three Sussex sites from Wednesday through to Sunday. The busiest pitch is on the south side of Brighton’s London Road railway station, where Robert knows most of his customers by name – and their preferred pizzas – and some of them even bring him back specialist ingredients such as charcuterie when they travel to France and Italy. Passionate about high-quality produce, Robert has been known to bring back truffles in his suitcase when he returns from Italy. With their four-day sourdough bases, tomatoes grown close to Vesuvius and wild oregano from Calabria, these are artisanal pizzas that wouldn’t look out of place in a high-end restaurant, and popular choices include Leanne, a white pizza topped with garlic, oregano, mozzarella, sliced fresh mushrooms, courgettes, Sicilian sun-blushed cherry tomatoes and torn ventricina salami. So busy is this pizzeria on wheels that Robert is now training two young chefs to help move the business forward. thegorillakitchen.com Head judge Laura Rowe says: Robert is bringing a little bit of Neopolitan sunshine to the south coast and, understandably, had so many nominations from his army of fans. He’s not the first and he won’t be the last pizza van, but how many do you know curing their own meats, pickling their own pickles and serving organic wine alongside each slice? Small but mighty Winner: Rajiv KC, Rajiv's Kitchen, London The concise biography on Rajiv KC’s Twitter account modestly says “project manager by day, chef on weekends”, which is something of an understatement considering how much this self-taught chef has achieved since starting supper clubs from his home in Bethnal Green. The supper clubs were started out of necessity when Rajiv was having treatment for cancer five years ago. His sick pay wasn’t enough to cover his outgoings so he started the supper clubs. The first one attracted just two people but word spread about his delicious regional Nepalese food and he was soon hosting regular nights and residencies. The supper clubs are intimate and run by Rajiv, his wife (who he met when she attended one of his dinners) and his cousin. Accompanied by Nepalese wine and whisky, dishes on his menus include Nepalese momo dumplings, perilla-seed-infused roasted aubergine with Nepalese salsa, garlic yogurt and pomegranate, and lamb ribs marinated in Nepalese rum, herbs and spices with green chutney, hemp-seed sauce and garlic yogurt. So far this year, the themed events have included a pop-up vegan supper club and a Nepalese vegan swing night, both in aid of a homeless charity. For Rajiv, it’s also about giving something back to the local community, and in his spare time he is also a private tutor for children with disabilities. rajivskitchenlondon.com Head judge Laura Rowe says: Rajiv is cooking food from his heart and his home – and he’s single-handedly bringing Nepalese food into the spotlight, for which we’re very grateful. Sustainable star Winner: Tommy Banks, York Tommy Banks jokes that his committed approach to sustainability simply stems from being a “tight Yorkshireman” and any frugality comes from growing up in a farming family. But his methods go well beyond saving money at his Michelin-starred and internationally acclaimed restaurant-with-rooms The Black Swan at Oldstead and York small-plates restaurant, Roots. The majority of produce used in both kitchens is as local as the Black Swan’s garden and family farm itself, the rest is from small local suppliers – often the fruit and veg no-one else wants, such as 80kg of unripe strawberries. But it’s the way the produce is utilised that makes Tommy a true sustainability star – from using one Hispi cabbage to feed 16 people (the outside leaves are used as wraps at the Black Swan, while the hearts are roasted at Roots), to the waste whey, from homemade cheese using raw milk, which is used four times, across two savoury dishes, in ice cream, and caramelised and grated on top of carrots. “There’s no reject produce and everything gets used rather than it just ending up in the compost,” says Banks, who employs three full-time chefs just to preserve produce (there’s enough dried, fermented and pickled stuff to fill a shipping container). Any surplus pickles, jams and pickles are now sold at farmers’ markets, and plenty more is infused in alcohol, like a peppery nasturtium bud vodka. And it’s not just the food that’s sustainable: Tommy cares about the wellbeing and mental health of his staff enough to reduce their hours to a four-day week and offers weekly check-ins about anxiety and diet. He even provides nutritionally balanced staff meals and creates a special vitamin C-enriched drink for staff to fill up and prevent dehydration during a busy shift, rather than consume unhealthy energy drinks. He’s also mindful of his carbon footprint, using induction hobs rather than gas and, because they’re not on mains electricity at The Black Swan, the waste heat from a diesel generator is used to heat up water tanks to heat water for the restaurant’s bedrooms, as well as the polytunnel where the seedlings grow. blackswanoldstead.co.uk; rootsyork.com Head judge Laura Rowe says: Tommy Banks doesn’t need to care this much – his food is world-class and his restaurants are booked out as a result – but thinking this way is ingrained in him. Sustainability makes him and his team more creative, and the quality of what they are producing has gone up as a result. From produce, to people, to plate – Tommy truly cares about the impact he’s having. Other chefs take note! The innovator Joint winner: Nina Matsunaga, The Black Bull, Cumbria After growing up in Germany to Japanese parents, Nina Matsunaga moved to London was she was 18 to study culinary arts management and went on to do a master’s in food policy. At 21, though, the call to cook became too strong. After stints at a bakery in Germany and restaurants in London, it was a move to Manchester, where she met her husband, James Ratcliffe, when her future career really started taking shape. As well as holding down day jobs, the couple started a weekend street-food business selling pies, preserves and chocolates at local farmers’ markets. Nina would bake everything and when they appeared at game shows, they specialised in unique game and meat dishes such as pulled rabbit with chipotle mayo or braised brisket with sorrel fritters, using local produce and ingredients they foraged themselves. With a new baby, two dogs and five ferrets to look after, the couple decided to take on The Three Hares in Sedbergh. It was an instant hit, with Nina’s food winning several awards and gaining a place in The Good Food Guide. They still own the café and bakery, which is close to the Yorkshire Dales, but split their time between there and The Black Bull, across the road, where Nina creates an innovative fusion of British, European and Asian dishes such as Mansergh Hall pork trotter, cardoon and cobnuts, and chocolate and red wine cake with quince layers and blue-cheese ice cream. Nina uses hyper-local ingredients, including North Sea fish, native-breed meat and vegetables dropped off by villagers or from her own garden. The pedigree Hereford beef is from grass-fed cattle chosen by a customer who hand-selects a cow for them and finishes them on his homegrown barley. Nina makes everything from scratch, from the Danish rye bread using beer ferment to her own tofu and miso with coffee-bean waste. She pickles and preserves seasonal produce and writes her menus depending on what arrives in the kitchen that day. theblackbullsedbergh.co.uk Head judge Laura Rowe says: Nina couldn’t be more humble – saying that she’s only doing “what everyone does in the Lake District” – but she’s truly carving her own path. From jellyfish fritters with rhubarb ponzu, to cured beef powder used as seasoning for steak – this is pub cooking like you’ve never tasted it before. Joint winner: Gareth Ward, Ynyshir, Wales Gareth Ward might call the Ynyshir experience “fun dining” rather than fine dining, but nothing quite prepares you for the surprises in store when you arrive at this remote Welsh hotel. A stunning white mansion-style property in immaculate grounds close to Snowdonia, it may look like any other high-end country house hotel but then you step into the bar with its black walls, sheep fleeces, twin decks and shelves of vinyl. There can’t be many Michelin-starred restaurants with their own DJ booth in the bar. The open kitchen is split into two, with a chef’s table in each. There’s a retro Eskimo Joe’s slush machine on one counter (it’s used for the fermented raspberry granita served towards the end of the meal) and Gareth plans to get a rotating kebab grill next – he likes the idea of cooking Welsh lamb on it. The 23-course tasting menu is protein-heavy and showcases only the very best ingredients, which are predominantly local but some of the top-grade wagyu is from Japan and Scotland, as is some shellfish. Gareth only buys the very best Japanese mirin, soy and miso, and he won’t compromise on quality despite the high prices. Asian flavours permeate the majority of dishes, including Aylesbury duck leg, which is brined, roasted, deboned and crisped up with sesame seeds and soy sauce. Other menu highlights include mackerel (aged for five days in the purpose-built Himalayan salt chamber in the hotel grounds) served raw with fiery wasabi, nori, puffed wild rice, soy and furikake. A dish of barbecue wagyu, sourdough, mayo and compressed Iceberg lettuce has a more intense burger flavour than any burger you’ve ever tasted. The innovation continues through to a dessert of white chocolate mousse made with Japanese silken tofu, served with fermented black bean juice, as well as fudge made with Welsh wagyu beef fat. ynyshir.co.uk Head judge Laura Rowe says: Gareth has made the most of his fine-dining budget to really have fun and experiment with the best ingredients he can find. Our judge said this was hands-down the best meal they’d had this year (and, trust us, they eat out a lot!). Words by Mark Taylor Photographs by @murrayorr, Harriet Clare, Alan Schalle, Fjona Black, Tom Bowles, Milly Fletcher, Severien Vitts, Luke Fullalove, @john8jane, Grant Anderson Photographer, James Mason, Tim Green Photography, Philippa Langley
Get your burger fix courtesy of Britain’s finest patty purveyors, from Korean brisket burgers in the North West, to beef short rib cheeseburgers in the capital
Looking for the best burger restaurants across the UK? Want to know where to find the best gourmet burgers? Read on for our restaurant guide, or check out our burger recipes here... Best burger restaurants in London… Buster's, Brixton A stone’s throw from Brixton station is potentially the best new burger in London. You’ll find it at Buster’s, effectively a hole in the wall joint, bar a few small tables, serving up delicious wagyu beef and fried chicken burgers. The London restaurant scene is full of spots trying to claim they do ‘simple things, executed perfectly’ but Buster’s is a spot that is actually nailing it. The wagyu cheeseburger is made up of tender meat, seasoned perfectly and cooked to a juicy medium. The green peppercorn dijonaise adds a welcome acidity, and the potato roll it is all sandwiched between is soft and bouncy. The chicken burger is equally excellent, crispy, juicy and served with plenty of pickles. The IPA cheese sauce is aerated and rich, perfect for dipping lots of hot, crispy fries in. We finished off the meal with a chocolate mousse, which was light but decadent. If you’re looking for a great burger south of the river, Buster’s is where it’s at. busterslondon.co.uk Supra Burger, Queen's Park Housed as a permanent pop-up in the cosy rotisserie restaurant Cocotte, Supra does smashed burgers and it does them well. The burger menu is short and the five burgers on offer are a variation on double stacked smashed cheeseburger, to which you can add bacon or salad, or change up the sauce to make it a Supra, truffle or barbecue burger. The burgers are generously portioned but without being too big to eat. There’s attention to detail in the preparation, along with the use of high-quality ingredients, resulting in burgers that are juicy, flavourful and smashed to perfection. The fries are crisp, golden and fresh from the fryer, and a side of chicken tenders were succulent from what we guessed must have been a wet brine. As well as a choice of six sauces (the burnt chilli was our favourite), there’s a short list of desserts. We tried the Mont Blanc, which was a tall sundae of sweetened chestnut purée, vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and almonds. There’s a fair few eateries on this stretch of leafy Queen's Park and Supra is now the go-to for burgers. supra-burger.com MEATLiquor, Clapham November marks 10 years since the first MEATliquor restaurant launched. Their origins from a burger van in Peckham, to a pop-up above an abandoned pub in New Cross, couldn' be further from the latest venture — and biggest yet — in Clapham's Old Town. The huge space has two bars, a heated outdoor dining area with TVs and a large projector and photo booth inside. Everything about MEATliquor is full-on — from the graffiti-led design and the music played, to the flavours on the menu, a mix of American diner specials, all with a MEATliquor twist. Burger aficionados will point to the Dead Hippie: a French's-mustard-fried double patty with onions, cheese, lettuce and pickles all within a soft bun that soaks up the good stuff. Buffalo chicken wings are a match for any of those found in the US and the loaded fries on offer are a meal within themselves. There are a range of vegetarian and vegan options — from the Tempeh Tantrum patty to the Black Bean Chilli Dog. The drinks list is a mix of craft beers and cocktails, and that's before you hit the 'Poke For Jäger' button on your table. meatliquor.com Tucka Burger, Shoreditch Andy Gardener and Lachy Brown met at school in Australia, and both moved to London to pursue careers in accountancy and consulting. Lachy says: “We quickly realised our passion lay elsewhere, and so in July 2018 we turned to our burger truck dream.” The beef is a high-fat blend of chuck, brisket and bone marrow, which has been dry-aged for 35 days. Try the signature Tom Tucka American cheeseburger, or the vegetarian What the Tuck (beef is substituted for grilled halloumi). “Our burgers are incredibly juicy and messy,” says Lachy. tuckaburger.co.uk Hawksmoor, London This upmarket steakhouse chain also serves a mean burger – notably the £17.50 beef short rib cheeseburger with kimchi, which was launched in 2010 when the Seven Dials restaurant opened. Inspired by a trip to Seoul, it features Hawksmoor’s own kimchi, the recipe for which you can find in the Hawksmoor at Home cookbook. thehawksmoor.com Bleecker, London What started as a street-food truck by former corporate lawyer Zan Kaufman now has three sites in Bloomberg, Victoria and Old Spitalfields Market. Bleecker serves six burgers with a range of fries, including the “angry” version with hot sauce and blue cheese sauce. The patties are made with native-breed beef, and brand director Liam O’Keefe says the secret blend they’ve created helps the butcher use the whole animal. “We believe we have the best-tasting beef burger possible,” he says. bleecker.co.uk Black Bear Burger, E1 (Shoreditch) This Box Park Shoreditch operation keeps things simple with three classic burger options. Stew Down, who opened Black Bear alongside his wife Liz, says: “We don’t mess around with gimmicks – everything in our burgers is there for one reason: flavour.” Beef comes from grass-fed South West native breeds (Stew’s family are beef farmers in Devon), and the most popular burger is the Black Bear: dry-aged beef, American cheese, bacon, onion jam and garlic mayo in a super-light seeded bun. It’s the balance of flavours that sets these burgers apart – Stew says that they’re keen to avoid overpowering sauces, incorrect seasoning and unnecessary ingredients. blackbearburger.com The Wigmore, W1 (Oxford Cirus) An upmarket pub just off Regent Street and Oxford Circus, The Wigmore serves a mean cheeseburger with grilled ox tongue. It was created by head chef James Hawley, who says the idea came from enjoying ox tongue and English mustard rolls when he was a kid. The Wigmore burger also features a caramelised onion brioche bun, crispy shallots and the same melted three-cheese mix used in the pub’s signature toasties. the-wigmore.co.uk Best burger restaurants across the UK… Bunsen, Belfast Keeping it simple and using high-quality ingredients (such as Black Aberdeen Angus beef minced on site every morning, and homemade soft Amish dinner rolls) is what sets Belfast’s Bunsen apart from competitors. It’s a straightforward choice between classic hamburger or cheeseburger, the latter of which includes a special blend of comté and monterey jack. bunsen.ie Steak & Honour, Cambridge Steak & Honour (which also has mobile burger vans across Cambridge) serves three types of burger: classic, cheese and a veggie shroom. The meat patties are made with 100% hand-minced chuck beef from cattle that graze East Anglian pastures and water meadows. Nothing is added except Maldon salt as they sizzle, and Dovecote Bakery created the brioche bun recipe for them. Order a side of three-cheese mac ’n’ cheese, too, which comes sliced and grilled. steakandhonour.co.uk Patty & Bun, Brighton Eight Patty & Bun branches have opened in London and Brighton over the past seven years. It’s known for impeccable sourcing – beef from HG Walter, bespoke buns from Bread Ahead, cheese from Neal’s Yard and Kupros Dairy – and bestsellers include the Lambshank Redemption: a lamb patty with coriander and chilli, buttermilk baby courgettes, pickled aubergine, cumin aïoli and feta. pattyandbun.co.uk Hills, Brecon A mile outside the town and overlooking the Brecon Beacons, the glass-fronted Hills restaurant is a destination that attracts thousands of diners every month. Owain and Emily Hill showcase Welsh produce in their burgers, with signature options including a chips and gravy cheeseburger, sweet and sour chicken burger, and pulled pork with hoisin and soy sauce burger. Hills uses aged PGI Welsh beef from local butcher Paddy Sweeney, and cooks its burgers using the ‘smashed’ method, creating an incredible crust and flavour. Each burger comes with two 3.5oz smashed patties and a blend of monterey jack and American cheese as standard. hillsbrecon.co.uk Blas Burgerworks, St Ives, Cornwall “Not fast, just fabulous” is the motto at Blas Burgerworks, the tiny restaurant and takeaway close to St Ives harbour. Now into its 14th year, it has become something of a local institution thanks to an unwavering commitment to provenance and sourcing. Beef comes from nearby Trevaskis Farm, Cornish potatoes are used for the hand-cut chips, and all the sauces are made on the premises. Blas Burgerworks also makes a mean vegetarian organic black bean burger, and occasionally serves a special mackerel burger using fish landed in the bay around the corner. blasburgerworks.co.uk Libertine Burger, Leamington Spa Charles Harris of Libertine Burger says that the main reason his patties stand out is the quality of the meat. It’s a mix of double-ground chuck, brisket and flank from 35-day dry-aged Angus beef, supplied by renowned butcher, Aubrey Allen. Hand-smashing the patties to order on a really hot grill lends a great crust. The Warwickshire punters also love the buttermilk fried chicken burger. libertineburger.com Squeezed, Bristol He might be cooking in a tiny shipping container on Bristol’s harbourside but Squeezed founder Alex Hayes was still crowned burger chef of the year at the National Burger Awards 2019. Signatures include the Beetlejuice (double beef patty, smoked bacon, cheese, black garlic, squid-ink aïoli and gochujang ketchup) and the Reverse Cowgirl (beef patty, smoked bacon, peanut chipotle BBQ and charred scallion soured cream). Alex says: “You can taste every element, as well as the overall flavour profile.” bristolsqueezed.co.uk Fat Hippo, Newcastle, Durham and Sheffield “Get ready to sink your teeth into something juicy,” is one tagline at the Fat Hippo, which started life in Newcastle and has since added Durham, Jesmond and Sheffield branches to its empire. The idea is indulgence, messy fingers and a full belly. The Bubba Gump burger, for example, includes a double patty, cheese, popcorn shrimp, smoked bacon and pickleback slaw. fathippo.co.uk The Beefy Boys, Hereford The Beefy Boys are four childhood friends who have always loved cooking burgers at garden BBQs. They’re regular competitors at worldwide burger championships (their next challenge in October takes them to Dallas, Texas) but, following a series of pop-ups across Hereford, the crew now has a restaurant in the city. Co-founder Murf says: “The Beefy Boys are the definition of a drunken BBQ that’s got seriously out of hand... so much so that we now own a restaurant, a food truck and an events business.” Murf puts their success down to local Hereford beef (100% chuck and brisket), toasting the bun with bacon fat, butter or aged beef fat, and seasoning. “We also steam our burgers, a tip we picked up from American diners. You spray water onto the hot plate, then steam the burgers under a cloche – it heats the bun up and melts the cheese, making the whole thing come together in a cacophony of cheesy, meaty goodness.” thebeefyboys.com Free State Kitchen, Liverpool “We serve straightforward American classics,” says Kate Hughes of Liverpool’s Free State Kitchen, whose bestseller after six years of business is still the cheeseburger (served in a locally baked brioche bun). The core menu may stay the same, but Free State Kitchen likes to use its specials board to mix things up on a regular basis. Expect treats such as the Korean brisket burger, made with locally produced kimchi, bulgogi-style beef and a crispy fried egg. freestatekitchen.co.uk Slap & Pickle, Leeds James Tabor and Zoe Perret run Slap & Pickle at Assembly Underground, a street-food hub located in the basement of a Grade-II building in Leeds city centre. The burgers are made from 100% grass-fed Yorkshire beef, and showcase a signature blend of chuck, short rib and clod. James says: “We can serve every item on our menu in meaty, veggie or vegan incarnations, and we make all of it ourselves. We don’t buy ‘science-lab fake meats’, because they’re all horrible.” slapandpickle.co.uk Big Boys, Folkestone Brothers Gareth Attwell and Guy Meurice launched Big Boys in 2014, and have made it to the finals of the National Burger Awards twice since then. Chef Gareth worked in top-end restaurants for 16 years, including spells with Marcus Wareing. The burgers are made with local rare-breed beef (matured for 28 days) and French brioche buns (or even mac ’n’ cheese ‘buns’, pictured). Big Boys are well known for their specials – try the Fat Elvis for its peanut butter, raspberry jelly and bacon jam. bigboysburgers.co.uk El Perro Negro, Glasgow Nick Watkins started El Perro Negro as a kitchen takeover pop-up, but it became such a hit with Glasgow burger fans that it was a permanent restaurant by 2018 (and winner at the National Burger Awards 2019). Using beef from small local farms, specials include the Top Dog, with bone marrow and roquefort butter, bacon and black truffle mayo, and the Black Dog, which adds black pudding to the mix. Nick says: “We don’t attempt to reinvent the wheel, we just use great beef, great bread and great ingredients. Our short rib and marrow patty gives a super juicy burger, with a really intense bovine flavour. The beef should be the star of the show. Anything that goes on the patty is there to complement the beef, not drown it out.” @ElPerroNegroGLA Magu, Bath Magu founder Leon Dunnett makes his own sauces and serves fantastic smashed beef patties in bespoke buns. But his Bath diner has also gained a formidable reputation for the veggie burger with Somerset-made halloumi, roasted Mediterranean vegetables, pickled red onion and mint yogurt. magudiner.com Meat:Stack, Newcastle Following pop-ups around Newcastle, Meat:Stack found a permanent home in the city’s Grainger Market. Its American cheeseburgers are the stuff of legend, especially the Cease and Desist (made with rare-breed dry-aged beef, smoked bacon, mascarpone and black garlic honey). “We are obsessive about simplicity and clarity of flavour,” says co-founder Tom Westman. The beef is cooked on a searing hot grill, then steamed, and you should order a portion of beef dripping fries on the side. meat-stack.com Honest Burgers, across the UK With more than 30 sites across the UK, Honest Burgers has a point of difference from other chains – it’s heavily invested in its own butchery, with each restaurant making burgers from scratch. Co-founder Tom Barton says: “From day one we’ve made the majority of our menu in-house, starting with chips, relish, pickles and sauces. By having our own butchery, we now know exactly where our beef comes from. We also love working with nearby suppliers, whether it’s for a local burger (every branch of Honest has one) or a local brewery.” honestburgers.co.uk Hoof, Cardiff Sibling business to Cardiff’s Dusty Knuckle Pizza, Hoof has a permanent residency at the city’s Sticky Fingers street-food market in the Brewery Quarter. It serves a 100% Welsh beef featherblade patty with Teifi cheese, pickles, cultured cream and sweet chilli herb sauce. One of the secrets of their success, according to owner Phil Lewis, is the fact award-winning Hay-on-Wye baker Alex Gooch provides the buns. “Alex’s organic challah buns are slightly spongy and a bit crusty. They hold together perfectly and are a great marriage with our beef patties, especially when grilled with dripping.” @hoofcdf Original Patty Men, Birmingham “Our tag line is ‘Purveyors of Filth’ and we do our best to live up to that,” says Thomas Maher, director of Birmingham’s Original Patty Men. Five burgers are on the menu, including the Pineapple Express (aged longhorn beef patty, maple-coated bacon, lettuce, roquito chilli pepper, fresh tomato, cheddar and pineapple hot sauce). Thomas says: “Our suppliers list is something we’re incredibly proud of, and the majority supply Michelin-starred restaurants across the country. Our style of cooking is just a bit different to theirs!” originalpattymen.com Words by Mark Taylor Photographs by Justin D Esouza, David Griffen, Ed Sowerby
Love pizza? Then you're in luck! We've rounded up the UK's best pizzerias, whether you want wood-fired ones topped fennel sausage, or slices piled high with veggies
Read on to find out the best places to eat pizza in the UK, then read the lowdown on pizza styles and where to find them. Best places to eat pizza in London… Whether you’re after a New York-style slice or an artisanal sourdough base, London is home to some of the UK’s top pizzerias. Pizza Pilgrims feels like an American diner meets Italian pizzeria with blistered crust bases and a sloppy centre, while at Voodoo Ray’s you’ll find slices piled high with everything from salt beef, sauerkraut and emmental to artichoke hearts and green olives. Click here for London’s best pizzerias… Best places to eat pizza across the UK… Fatto a Mano, Brighton and Hove Fatto a Mano brings an authentic taste of Naples to its three restaurants (two in Brighton, one in Hove) with its soft and pillowy wood-fired pizzas. The chefs collaborate with producers in Sussex, and there are regular staff tours of Naples, which inspires ideas such as the pizza topped with fennel sausage, Neapolitan broccoli, chilli, provola, mozzarella and parmesan. fattoamanopizza.com Dough & Brew, Warwick John Martin’s restaurant has reached the finals of the National Pizza Awards three years running. Food aside, much of its appeal is down to the child-friendly approach, including a film club so kids can watch a movie via wireless headphones so the grown-ups can enjoy their meal in relative peace. The wood-fired Neapolitan sourdough pizza toppings range from mac ’n’ cheese to British pulled short-rib beef with caramelised onions, stilton and mozzarella. doughandbrew.com The Flat, Exeter Chloe Whipple and Pietro Chiereghin opened their restaurant in 2017 and specialise in “planet-friendly” vegan and vegetarian versions of northern Italian pizzas. All hand-stretched bases are gluten-free and the kitchen even uses homemade vegan ‘mozzarella’ and ‘parmesan’. Available as small (6-inch) or regular (10-inch), bestsellers include the smoked halloumi, smoked vegan mozzarella, mushrooms, red onion chutney and ground pepper, or the peppers, olives, spinach, mixed nuts and fresh chilli. theflatexeter.co.uk Bertha’s, Bristol Once an engineer for the McLaren Formula 1 team, Graham Faragher and his wife, Kate, started Bertha’s as a street-food business, serving pizzas from a converted canary-yellow Land Rover Defender before opening a bricks-and-mortar pizzeria in Bristol’s burgeoning harbourside food quarter. For Graham, it’s all about a long fermentation for the sourdough – at Bertha’s, it’s between three and five days – and seasonal South West ingredients for the toppings. The Truffle Shuffle remains a firm favourite with its creamy smoked mushroom and truffle base, mozzarella and mushrooms, as do specials like the Kimcheese – that’s wild garlic and chard kimchi with Devon Blue. “It’s all about the daft ideas,” says Graham, who has also created a number of unusual ice creams at Bertha’s including the Mint Air-Woah (aerated Valrhona dark chocolate churned through fresh mint gelato). berthas.co.uk Pi, Dublin Opened in 2018 by John Savage and Reggie White, a former auctioneer who trained at Ballymaloe Cookery School, Pi is widely regarded as serving the best wood-fired pizzas in the Irish capital. Using ‘00’ flour from Naples and fermenting the dough for 72 hours, the toppings include cheese and charcuterie from artisanal Irish producers such as Fingal Ferguson’s Gubbeen Smokehouse. Pi’s crushed tomato, fresh basil, scamorza, ’nduja, honey, parmigiano reggiano and garlic pizza was voted the best in Dublin this year. pipizzas.ie For more local recommendations, read our guide to the best restaurants in Dublin. Poco, Leeds Created by Elvi Drizi, who also runs popular Leeds restaurant Culto, Poco is a small restaurant serving Sicilian street food. In Italian, ‘poco’ means ‘a little bit’ and that is exactly what the restaurant on Kirkstall Road offers, with delicious small bites including authentically Sicilian pizza al taglio served by the slice from large rectangular trays. All the chefs come from Sicily and they only use authentic recipes and Italian produce in their cooking. The average price at Poco is around £3-4 per portion and its customer base is mostly young professionals and students. Elvi says: “Our aim is to serve affordable and authentic food to the people of Leeds. We keep our prices as low as possible to make our food affordable for our customers – that’s why most of them come to Poco at least a couple of times a week to grab their lunch or dinner.” facebook.com/pocosicilian Baked in Brick, Birmingham What started out as a hand-built wood-fired pizza oven and shed at the bottom of owner Lee Desanges’ garden went on to be a mobile pizzeria in a converted Mini competing in the European Street Food Awards. In 2018, the business upgraded to a permanent restaurant in Birmingham, with dough handmade to a specific recipe of two blends of ‘00’ flour and cooked through in an English-built wood-fired oven. “Our toppings are all about flavour and sometimes not so traditional,” says Lee, name-checking the Blanco pizza with its béchamel sauce, oak-smoked chicken, sautéed rosemary potatoes and rosemary oil, and the wood-fired squash, roasted courgette and crispy kale. bakedinbrick.co.uk Paesano Pizza, Glasgow Something of a Glasgow institution, Paesano Pizza claims to be the first to bring authentic, traditional Napoletana pizza to the city, and the original site on Miller Street now has a sibling on Great Western Road. The bases are a hybrid of yeast and sourdough, proven for over 48 hours to produce a light and thin crust on signature pizzas such as the spicy salami, tomato sugo, mozzarella and extra-virgin olive oil. paesanopizza.co.uk Scream for Pizza, Newcastle upon Tyne Scream for Pizza is the brainchild of friends Victoria Featherby and Alex Walker, who met back in 2010 while working in the entertainment department of a cruise ship company. They found common ground in a shared love of pizza and in 2014, between contracts, they decided to head to Naples to do a seven-week course in pizza making at Enzo Coccia’s celebrated La Notizia restaurant. They returned to Newcastle-upon-Tyne and served their creations from a J7 Peugeot, a former French army ambulance turned pizza truck affectionately known as Goldie. In May 2019, they finally opened their first pizzeria in the Sandyford district, although Goldie still makes regular appearances around the city. Scream for Pizza bestsellers include the crab thermidor (which reached the finals of British Street Food Awards) and a deconstructed fried tiramisu pizza. screamforpizza.com GB Pizza Co, Margate and Didsbury After running a successful Wiltshire gastropub, chef Rachel Seed and food writer Lisa Richards started the GB Pizza Co in 2012 in the back of a 1974 VW camper van, touring farmers’ markets and festivals, selling wood-fired pizzas made with British ingredients. A year later, they opened their first pizza restaurant on the seafront at Margate facing the North Sea. Using only social media to draw the locals to their new venture, more than 100 people turned up to eat their pizzas on the opening night. That evening the “Margate-rita” was born, and it’s still on the menu alongside pizzas like the Full English (yes, bacon, sausage, mushrooms, tomatoes and egg) and The Bath Pig chorizo and chilli, which has been the bestselling pizza since they opened seven years ago. The menu also features a seasonally changing Charity Pizza, with 50p from each pizza donated to the Brain Tumour Charity. It’s a cause close to their hearts as co-founder Rachel sadly died of a brain tumour last Christmas following a long illness. greatbritishpizza.com Oscar and Rosie’s, Nottingham and Leicester Oscar and Rosie’s started as a pop-up six years ago by ex-lawyer Olly Hunter but it’s now a fully-fledged restaurant in Nottingham’s historic Lace Market, with a second site in Leicester. Olly says the intention was simply to bring restaurant-grade ingredients and methods to pizza. To that end, the pizzas feature free-range and locally sourced produce, as well as sauces made from scratch and cheeses grated to order, so “they melt just right”. The pizzas come in “Famous 14-inch” size or by the metre and stand-out choices include the Cosmopolitan (grand reserve serrano ham with tinned peaches and basil leaves), Boom Chicken Wah Wah (a BBQ base with free-range chicken thigh, award-winning smoked streaky bacon, caramelised red onions and thyme roast mushrooms) and The Checkpoint (butternut squash roasted in cumin and chilli with smoked bacon and fresh sage). oscarandrosies.com Rudy’s, Manchester, Liverpool and Birmingham There are now branches of Rudy’s in Liverpool and Birmingham but it all started four years ago in Manchester’s Ancoats district, often described as ‘Little Italy’. Rudy’s has achieved countless accolades since its conception and was recently named the 10th best pizza in the world by Big Seven Travel. Following the traditions of traditional pizzaiolos from Naples, the Rudy’s chefs serve old favourites such as marinara and margherita but also daily specials and a wide range of vegan pizzas, all cooked in 60 seconds in the searing heat of the wood-fired oven. Made using San Marzano tomatoes alongside carefully sourced local ingredients, the charm of Rudy’s is its simplicity, complete with stripped back interior, open kitchen and a cool aperitivo bar. rudyspizza.co.uk All Day Brewing, Salle, Norfolk In the village of Salle, the taproom of this award-winning microbrewery run by chef and brewer Miles Anstes serves six seasonal vegan pizzas from its Fermentorium taproom every Friday and Saturday. The 72-hour slow-fermented sourdough bases are made using flour from nearby Letheringsett Watermill (Norfolk’s only flour-producing watermill) and yeasts from the brewery’s organic apple orchards, before being topped with locally grown farm produce and stone-baked in the brewery courtyard’s wood-fired pizza oven. Pizzas include the Reepham Tiger (ginger-garlic tofu, red peppers, spring onions, coriander, cheddar and spicy peanut sauce) and Spicy Salle (sriracha, chillies, vegan pepperoni and rocket). alldaybrewing.co.uk The Cornish Pizza Co, St Agnes, Cornwall Tim and Fiona Barton create award-winning thin-crust pizzas with a regional twist using stoneground organic flour and Cornish cheeses and charcuterie. The hand-stretched pizzas have names reflecting the area’s rich mining history and are cooked in a stone-based Italian oven. The dough has a fermentation of more than 36 hours and is cooked at 400C for just a couple of minutes. Tim says: “Some of our favourite pizzas are the ones featuring products from our friends at Duchy Charcuterie. The ’nduja on the Wheal Coates pizza is a fantastic chilli salami that renders down beautifully in the heat of our oven. Our special of Cornish venison bresaola cured in Cornish gin with our locally foraged wild garlic and nettle pesto is also absolutely delicious.” thecornishpizzacompany.co.uk Stile Napoletano, Chester Although he worked as a chef in London before opening Stile Napoletano in Chester Market in 2018, Giacomo Guido hails from the island of Ischia in the Bay of Naples, well known for its sourdough pizzas. Here pizzas include Neapolitan sausage, wild broccoli, mozzarella, smoked mozzarella, fresh chillies and extra-virgin olive oil. Giacomo says: “I use a blend of flours selected by myself, and my dough rises for 48 hours to offer a light and digestible pizza. I think what makes my pizza special is the authenticity, the passion and the knowledge of what I do.” stilenapoletanopizzeria.co.uk Words by Mark Taylor Photographs by Vegan Photographer UK, Emli Bendixen and Helena Dolby
Best family-friendly restaurants in the UK
From Spanish tapas bars to Korean street-food restaurants and gastropubs with huge gardens, these are the UK’s best child-friendly venues (that just happen to be great for grown-ups, too)
Looking for places to eat with kids? Here's our pick of the best family restaurants in the country... Child-friendly restaurants in London… Tredwells, WC2 (Covent Garden) As well as a Junior menu, Marcus Wareing’s restaurant offers a Culinary Kids tasting menu to encourage further exploration of food. The mini seven-course journey comes with recipe cards, so budding chefs can cook their favourite courses at home. Tredwells has also joined forces with the RSC to form an exclusive partnership with Matilda the Musical at nearby Cambridge Theatre. The bespoke, child-friendly menu (“eggstra-ordinarily awesome” omelettes with “perky peas and bravo broccoli” and “magnificent” meatballs) inspired by the Roald Dahl classic is available throughout summer until 31 August. tredwells.com The Duke of Richmond, E8 (Dalston) There was a time when children weren’t even allowed in pubs, but The Duke of Richmond takes it to the other extreme by being so baby- and child-friendly. As well as a kids’ menu (they can eat for free every Friday afternoon), high chairs and baby-change facilities for both mums and dads, it runs a Tuesday and Thursday lunch club for parents between midday and 4pm. The two-course lunch costs £15 (including a glass of wine or beer) and staff put down mats and toys for babies. Co-owner Meryl Fernandes says: “We encourage parents to bring their friends, National Childbirth Trust crews or just themselves. Being a new mum or dad can be lonely, so we really want to provide a weekly outlet for parents – somewhere to hang out and make new friends.” thedukeofrichmond.com Jinjuu, W1 (Soho) This contemporary Korean street-food restaurant on Kingly Street offers a three-course children’s menu, including beef and pork steamed dumplings, mini bibimbap bowls, and sae-woo pops (fried prawn cakes with aïoli). jinjuu.com Child-friendly restaurants across the UK… Felin Fach Griffin, Brecon, Powys The Felin Fach Griffin restaurant-with-rooms encourages children to join their parents for dinner but younger visitors who need to eat early can have high tea at 5.30pm. Served at a table near the games box, it includes fresh fish fillet with chips, and spaghetti with meatballs. All children’s meals come with a complimentary glass of local apple juice from the Aber Valley. As well as a large kitchen garden to explore, kids visiting Felin Fach Griffin are well catered for all year round, with Easter egg hunts, pumpkin carving and local competitions, including who can grow the tallest sunflower. felinfachgriffin.co.uk Mollie’s Diner, Buckland, Oxfordshire Owned by Soho House, this retro 1950s-style diner in the heart of the Cotswolds has an impressive menu for smaller folk: cod goujons, mac ’n’ cheese, and avocado and sweetcorn salad, all at £6, including crinkle-cut fries and a drink. The activity sheets are excellent, too, with a food-related word-search, dot-to-dot, and a huge colouring sheet depicting burgers, milkshakes and classic Cadillacs. Click here to read our full review of Mollie's Diner molliesmotel.com Rockfish, Exeter Mitch Tonks has five grown-up children, but he still remembers how hard it was to find good-quality, child-friendly restaurants when they were growing up. “We wanted somewhere with really good food and wines, where younger members of the family were welcomed without it feeling like a soft-play area,” says Mitch, who runs a collection of Rockfish family seafood restaurants around the south coast. “At Rockfish, we want to get everyone eating great seafood, whatever their age. So we have high chairs, of course, but also a great children’s menu.” As well as grilled local fish and retro ice-cream sundaes, Rockfish has designed Ocean Protector Packs so kids can learn about seafood and the environment while they eat. It includes a beach-clean bag, a wooden dolphin jigsaw, word-searches and a card game (it’s like a fishy version of Old Maid, and the person left holding the plastic bottle card is the loser). Diners also get a stamp every time their child eats at Rockfish, and after five tokens they get an exclusive t-shirt. Mitch even encourages kids (and their parents) to draw on the paper tablecloths: the best doodles end up on the walls and website. therockfish.co.uk Southside Scran, Edinburgh Tom Kitchin’s restaurant welcomes kids until 10pm, and serves an excellent menu for them (including mussels and fries). But it also offers half-size portions of adult dishes for those under-12s adventurous enough to try the likes of North Sea plaice wrapped in pancetta, for example. Check out more places to eat and drink in Edinburgh here southsidescran.com The Elephant, Torquay Stuffier Michelin-starred establishments might baulk at the thought of children in their restaurant but as a father of three, chef/owner Simon Hulstone positively encourages it. The Elephant is one of the few Michelin-starred restaurants with a separate kids’ menu for under-12s, at a reasonable £6.95 for main course, dessert and drink. The choices include fish of the day with vegetables and potatoes, omelettes made with eggs from a local farm, and homemade ice cream. Simon says: “I’m constantly trying to get my children to eat new foods, as well as healthier alternatives. So we’ve devised a menu to incorporate fresh, seasonal and local produce, but still with an eye on pleasing our young diners.” elephantrestaurant.co.uk The Old Manse of Blair, Pitlochry, Perthshire The Old Manse of Blair owners, Anne and Archie MacDonald, actively welcome families to their Cairngorms National Park hotel and its new restaurant, The Orangery. Head chef Jonathan Greer uses local Highlands ingredients (including venison from the local estates, Perthshire lamb and Arbroath smokies) in his new Inbetweeners menu for teenagers. Anne says: “It was created following extensive research by our 11-year-old twins, who canvassed their school friends in several surveys.” The menu includes chicken fajita pizza with free-range chicken breast; sausages from the local butcher; and estate-reared Aberdeen Angus 4oz burgers with Orkney cheddar and triple-cooked chips from the family’s own potatoes. Anne says: “We want to produce a foodie experience that is as fresh and delicious as possible, with the aim of engaging young diners with their food.” theoldmanseofblair.com Zindiya, Birmingham Zindiya is a contemporary Indian street-food restaurant run by Ajay and Shivani Kenth. Their concept was to create an immersive experience of India in a casual and fun environment. The children’s menu has been developed by the couple’s six-year-old daughter, Diya, who the restaurant is named after. The Little Zindiyans children’s menu includes Indian school lunchbox favourite, aloo paratha (flatbread filled with potatoes and served with yogurt), a fresh salad and chicken tikka wrap, and Indian-inspired fish ’n’ chips. Dessert could be Indian rice pudding, or Zindiya’s take on gol gappe (crispy chocolate balls filled with strawberries and served with vanilla ice cream), which is a common street snack in India. The beautifully designed menu, also made by Diya (who is anti-phone/tablet at the dining table), features a word-search, colouring and facts about India. zindiya.co.uk B-Block Pizza, Keynsham, Bristol In the former Cadbury’s chocolate factory between Bristol and Bath, this family-orientated pizza restaurant hosts free screenings of child-friendly films at its on-site cinema. The showings start mid-afternoon, followed by a pizza and drink deal (£15 for adults and £7.50 for children). b-blockpizza.co.uk Bar 44, Cardiff This buzzing tapas bar in central Cardiff encourages youngsters to eat well. The Ninos menu means kids can choose four, five or six plates for £4/£5/£6 per plate, with options such as patatas bravas, cured anchovies, crispy whole squid and jamón croquetas. There’s also a selection of kids’ mocktails to choose from. bar44.co.uk/cardiff Brassica, Beaminster, Dorset Louise Chidgey and Cass Titcombe’s son, Jesse, was two years old when they opened Brassica in 2014, and he has since spent a lot of time in the restaurant. It’s perhaps why Brassica is so child-friendly, down to a toy box situated under a banquette, so accessible to small children. Brassica doesn’t have a huge children’s set menu, preferring to offer any dish on the menu at half size and half price, but it does list a simple pasta dish and a piece of grilled hake with fries, as well as ice cream with salted caramel to finish. Louise says: “A lot of families opt for charcuterie and bread to start things off, as they’re popular with all ages. As are our trifles and sundaes, which can be smaller for children.” The couple stopped selling all commercially made fizzy drinks a year ago, and instead make three seasonal fruit purées which are mixed with sparkling mineral water. brassicarestaurant.co.uk Market House, Altrincham, Greater Manchester Family is big at the award-winning Altrincham Market, not least because it’s run by Nick Johnson and Jenny Thompson, who have four children of their own. Particularly popular with kids are the freshly made sourdough pizzas at Honest Crust; delicious pancakes and galettes from Fold; and the moreish handmade cakes and buns from Wolfhouse. Market House Coffee always has a great selection of soft drinks and handmade cake pops in fun designs, too. Award-winning pie maker Great North Pie Co even makes pies with smiley faces. The market itself is great for teaching little ones where their food comes from, as children can walk around the stalls and meet local producers. There are also lots of hot-food stalls, providing the opportunity to try new things, and dishes are often cooked in situ so kids can see how they’re made. The market features a different “easy peasy” recipe every week, encouraging kids (and adults) to buy the ingredients at the market, make it at home, and send in a photo of the results. With four seating areas to choose from, there’s also plenty of room for buggies and a cosy play area for kids with a selection of books and toys. altrinchammarket.co.uk <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2019/07/Doughnuts-at-Market-House-Altrincham-Greater-Manchester-d7caf82.jpg" width="4032" height="3024" alt="A piece of grey paper lined with doughnuts. One is caramel, another has white icing with raspberries, another has crushed pecan nuts and another has dark chocolate glaze" title="Doughnuts at Market House Altrincham, Greater Manchester" /> Pip’s Lopen, Somerset Occupying an 1850s railway carriage and an old double-decker bus with a marquee attached, Pip’s has communal tables where families chat over dishes created from organic food grown on the nearby farm. Outside, there are picnic benches for the summer months with a children’s mud kitchen, sandbox and plenty of grass to run around on. The children’s menu costs £6 (including a drink) and might feature a mini picnic of cheddar toastie, pork pie and “farm” slaw; or flowerpot hummus and veggie “bugs”, such as celery stick “snails”. facebook.com/PipsRailwayCarriage The Pigs, Edgefield, Norfolk Children visiting The Pigs get to pick from an extensive menu that includes smoked chicken and bacon salad, and fish fingers served with “what you want with it” (mash, chips, boiled carrots, buttered new potatoes, garden peas, sweetcorn, cucumber or baked beans). The pub-with-rooms has also created a mini version of the pub outside, including a treehouse and zip wire. If it’s raining, children can make use of the indoor play area with its Lego, Brio train track, kitchen, pool table and table football. thepigs.org.uk White Row Farm, Frome, Somerset What makes White Row unique is that it doesn’t sell its produce to other businesses. So everything in the café, including the meat, is sourced directly from the farm. Since the early 1990s, the farm has reared its own pigs and all of the eggs used come from the 350 chickens in the fields surrounding the café. White Row also has an award-winning fishmongers and fish ’n’ chip shop serving MSC-approved fish. Child-size fish ’n’ chips portions are part of the For the Kids menu, which also includes a mini ploughman’s. Little ones can run it all off in an outdoor play park, and also meet piglets, rabbits, hens and alpacas. whiterowfarm.co.uk Words by Mark Taylor Photographs by Steve Ryan, Paul Massey, Soho House, Marc Millar Photography Tony Naylor's top kid-friendly restaurants in the UK The Lord Nelson, Burton Joyce, Nottinghamshire As well as serving cracking grub (say, fish pie or rare-breed pork belly from Whipling Vale Farm with seasonal greens and apple sauce), chef John Molnar’s Moleface pubs are embedded in their communities. All four run weekly coffee ‘n’ cake mornings for new and expectant mums and the Lord Nelson, in leafy Burton Joyce, is a real boon for parents. Its sunny, south-facing garden includes a huge sandpit and an Astro-turfed five-a-side pitch for kids and, in summer, it has its own outdoor pizza kitchen and a vintage bicycle ice-cream stall. On rainy days, children are given Etch-A-Sketches to keep them happy as they await their freshly-cooked Mini Moles dishes (mains, £6). Mains from £12.50; molefacepubcompany.co.uk WIFI | High chairs | Children's menu | At-table activities | Food from 5:30pm | Dogs welcome (bar only) Calcot Manor, Tetbury, Gloucestershire Set in 220 acres, historic Calcot is an imposing pile but the atmosphere is far from stuffy. There are two play-zones with entertainment for kids of all ages and outdoor activities from football to horse-riding, which those visiting to dine can tap-into like residents (rooms from £199). Most families eat in the Gumstool Inn, enjoying dishes such as local sausage ‘n’ mash with red onion jam and crispy shallots. However, the Sunday lunch family feast served in the airy Conservatory restaurant (from £23pp) looks a winner, particularly for a special celebration. It might, for example, feature platters of langoustines and Iberico croquettes followed by roast organic beef from the Calcot estate. A separate children’s menu is served in both dining spaces (mains from £6). Gumstool mains from £12; calcotmanor.co.uk WIFI | High chairs | Children's menu | At-table activities Science Cream, Cardiff Like Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck, Science Cream uses liquid nitrogen to instantly freeze its gelato. That process produces an incredibly dense, smooth scoop that, thanks to Science Cream’s use of all-natural ingredients, also has a remarkable clarity of flavour. Kids will love the science lab look of the place, all exhaust pipes and swirling nitrogen, while adults will adore the salted caramel with homemade honeycomb. Children can also play board games that Science Cream borrows from Cardiff shop, Rules Of Play, and visiting canines are treated to free doggucinnos (frothy milk). 12-6pm, daily. From £3.95; sciencecream.co.uk WIFI | High chairs | Dogs welcome Fat Loaf, Sale, Manchester In a perfect world, every suburb would have a Fat Loaf, a casual modern restaurant which serves affordable food of surprising quality, where kids (look at the drawings that decorate the open-kitchen) are very much welcome. You regularly see the tables pushed together for big family parties here, at which the adults coo over dishes as diverse as sausage roll with pickled onion and quince chutney or an epic cheese and onion pie with buttered greens and mustard sauce. The children’s menu (mains £5) is crowned with DIY sundaes that allow the nippers to add sprinkles and jellies to local Dunham Massey Farm ice cream. Mains from £11.50; thefatloaf.co.uk WIFI | HIgh chairs | Children's menu | At-table activities | Food from 5:30pm | Dogs weclome Brandling Villa, Newcastle Live gigs! Film nights! Video game tournaments! This South Gosforth pub is a hip place with a lot going on. Not least for dogs. Pampered pets can enjoy, not just water and Pedigree treats from the bar, but their own dog meals including a pig’s ear taco (£4.95). Kids big and small will love the Brandling’s NY-style deli ‘sammidges’ and its terrific burgers made using patties from Northumberland Sausage Company. Board games such as Trivial Pursuit™ and Guess Who? provide further entertainment. If beaten by a 10-year-old, console yourself with one of the pub’s 10 crafty cask ales (pint from £3.30) Mains from £7.95; brandlingvilla.co.uk Cloud WIFI | High chairs | Children's menu | At-table activites | Food all day | Dogs welcome La Favorita, Edinburgh All kids love pizza but not every pizza restaurant will satisfy picky, foodie parents. La Favorita on Leith Walk is a slick, buzzy, family-friendly pizzeria (waiting staff are all smiles with the little ’uns, and come armed with crayons, pencils and menus to colour-in), that uses 48-hour, air-proved dough, quality Italian ingredients and a wood-fired oven to produce a cracking slice. Expect thin and pliable, nicely charred bases, whether you go for classic margherita – the tomato sauce vibrant, the mozzarella creamy – or Napoletana finished with fiery Calabrian ’nduja sausage. Sensibly, it is not used on the children’s menu (mains, £5). Pizza from £8.95; vittoriagroup.co.uk WIFI | High chairs | Children's menu | At-table activities | Food all day The Green Café, Ludlow, Shropshire In theory, chef Clive Davis’ seriously foodie daytime café (with rustic seasonal dishes such as tagliatelle, baby chard, lemon and parmesan cream; or a warm salt beef brisket bap with piccalilli), sounds like a hard-sell to kids. But Clive will happily serve his gnocchi with a simple tomato sauce for toddlers, bakes ace cakes (children love his brownies), and he keeps a collection of retro board games and old Beano comics on-site. And did we mention the location? The Green Café sits on a grassy common by a weir. Kids can run around and paddle in the River Teme. Lunch 12-2.30pm. Mains around £9; @greencafeludlow High chairs | At-table activities | Dogs welcome Porthminster Café, St Ives, Cornwall Not only is Australian chef-owner Michael Smith’s pan-Asian fish cookery on-point (Nathan Outlaw is a fan), but the café’s terrace allows parents to kick-back and relax while their kids play nearby on this beautiful Blue Flag beach (terrace open all-year, enclosed/heated on colder days). The children’s menu (mains around £5) generally features six dishes, which are often simplified, healthier versions of the adult mains, such as grilled or battered fish with chips, salad or potatoes. Discerning parents must try the crispy squid with citrus miso or Michael’s signature monkfish curry with jasmine rice and sweet chilli tamarind. Mains from £16; porthminstercafe.co.uk WIFI | High chairs | Children's menu | At-table activities The Allanton Inn, Allanton, Berwickshire As parents themselves, the Allanton’s owners William and Katrina Reynolds know that, in order for mum and dad to enjoy their meal, the kids need entertaining. Chef Craig Rushton confidently deploys seasonal Borders produce, in everything from inventive scotch eggs to dishes such as hand-dived scallops and charred leeks in a bacon-onion broth, but one of the chief attractions at this spruce country inn is how well kitted-out it is for kids. There are building games and craft kits in the dining room, outdoor toys in the enclosed beer garden and, at Easter, Katrina organises egg hunts for the children after they have tucked into homemade fish goujons or local sausages and mash (mains, £4.95). Mains from £12; allantoninn.co.uk WIFI | High chairs | Children's menu | At-table activities Words: Tony Naylor Photographs: Owen Mathias, Andrew Irwin, Chris Humphreys, Bacononthebeech.com, Kiss Photography
From rooftop terraces with city views to beachside shacks with just the sea as scenery, these are the UK's best restaurants with a view
Looking for waterfront restaurants? Want the best restaurants with a city view? Here’s our guide for the UK's best restaurants with a view, and check out the best restaurants with a view in London here… Best outdoor restaurants across the UK Hare & Hounds, Bath This stone-built, dog-friendly inn is only a mile from Bath city centre, but nevertheless the Hare & Hounds is surrounded by beautiful countryside and extensive gardens. From the terrace there are sweeping 10-mile views across the city towards Solsbury Hill, an Iron Age hill fort immortalised in song by Peter Gabriel. The garden comes into its own in the summer, with its large lawn, picnic benches and children’s play area. It all makes for a lovely spot to enjoy a pint of Somerset-brewed Butcombe ale and simple dishes such as beer-battered fish and chips, or mash and beef braised in red wine. hareandhoundsbath.com Check out more places to eat and drink in Bath here 20 Stories, Manchester In the heart of Spinningfields, the restaurant at 20 Stories lays claim to the highest rooftop terrace in Manchester and provides magnificent 360° views of the city’s vast skyline. It’s a dramatic setting to enjoy modern British dishes in, including sweet-cured bacon chop, sauerkraut and lentils, and rhubarb panna cotta and crème fraîche sorbet. 20stories.co.uk Riddle & Finns, Brighton Riddle & Finns, tucked under a Victorian arch beneath the promenade at Brighton beach, is both a seafood restaurant and champagne and oyster bar. It has one of the town’s most sought-after views – the window area overlooks the skeletal remains of the iconic West Pier. Sit on the alfresco terrace in the summer or dine upstairs and glance over the pebble beach, gazing out to sea as you feast on grilled langoustines with chilli and salsa verde, followed by fish pie or pan-roast fillet of turbot with confit potato, burnt apple, Asian pear and shiso leaf butter. riddleandfinns.co.uk Here are more places to eat in Brighton The Griffin Inn, East Sussex As Britain begins to warm-up, the two-acre garden at this rural dining-pub shines. Nicknamed ‘the Serengeti’, it enjoys sweeping views of the South Downs and, on summer weekends, includes its own BBQ kitchen and an outdoor bar where, as the sun sets, you can sip at a ‘Sussex Serengeti’ cocktail of homemade elderflower cordial, prosecco, mint and raspberries. You can also eat on the neat outdoor terrace. Expect dishes such as South Brockwell Farm asparagus, buffalo mozzarella and baby basil as well as Portland crab linguine with chilli, garlic and white wine. thegriffininn.co.uk Nancarrow Farm, Cornwall Each month this organic farm throws open its swanky barn for feast nights, cooked in the outdoor kitchen. Open fires and elemental hardwood cooking are a focus, and super-seasonal dishes – all served communally – might include oak-grilled lamb with wild garlic pesto, braised lentils, sweetheart cabbage and asparagus or a novel beef carpaccio (‘cooked dirty, on the embers’) with rosemary salt, horseradish and radishes. All the meats are reared at Nancarrow, which also has a fecund kitchen garden. nancarrowfarm.co.uk Ruin Beach Café, Isles of Scilly This happily situated café, overlooking Raven’s Porth beach, is on the privately-owned island of Tresco in the Isles of Scilly, less than 30 miles from the Cornish coast. It uses the best island produce available for its Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and the view towards St Martin’s from the sun terrace of this former smuggler’s cottage offers an equally Mediterranean-style view. A wood-fired oven produces excellent pizzas and is also used to roast top-quality Tresco beef and island-caught fish. tresco.co.uk Gara Rock, Devon The sweeping views from this clifftop restaurant at East Portlemouth are simply stunning. Local fish and meat from nearby farms – often cooked in fire pits outside during summertime – can be enjoyed against a backdrop of rugged Devon coastline. The bar is known locally as the place to relax over a Salcombe Sundowner, and the restaurant is hosting a number of foodie events this summer (including monthly barbecues). gararock.com The Inn at Whitewell, Lancashire Lancashire gem The Inn at Whitewell is a 16th-century pub perched high on the banks of the River Hodder, with spectacular views down the valley to the grouse moors beyond. The kitchen sources game from the surrounding woods and moors (the inn sits within the Forest of Bowland, a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty) and neighbouring Burholme Farm produces delicious Lonk rare-breed lamb. innatwhitewell.com Hix Oyster and Fish House, Dorset Now in its 11th year, Hix Oyster and Fish House is set within Lyme Regis’s Langmoor and Lister Gardens and overlooks the Cobb (yes, it’s still hard not to think of Meryl Streep in The French Lieutenant’s Woman) and across the bay to the Jurassic Coast. Watch the day boats returning to the harbour from floor-to-ceiling windows – including chef/owner Mark Hix’s own vessel – and order from a seasonal menu that’s essentially all about seafood, much of it from the water in front of the restaurant. hixrestaurants.co.uk Llansantffraed Court, Monmouthshire Surrounded by 20 acres of lawns and meadows carpeted in snowdrops each spring, this Grade-II mansion house (part of an ancient country seat, rebuilt in 1912), is a picture-postcard scene. Food nuts will be fascinated by the gorgeous, walled kitchen garden and glasshouse which is used mainly to grow neglected varieties of fruit and veg. Guests can inspect, sniff and taste these ingredients before sitting down in the elegant Court restaurant, where freshly-harvested veggies are paired with superb regional rare-breed meats. The big dishes here include fillet of salmon with fondant potato and celeriac as well as tenderloin and slow-cooked belly of pork with cannelloni beans and wild mushrooms. llch.co.uk The Godolphin Arms, Cornwall A short walk along the beach from Penzance, The Godolphin Arms restaurant-with-rooms overlooks the iconic St Michael’s Mount with farreaching views of the Lizard Peninsula. In the summer, the suntrap terrace is the place to sip a Cornish gin and eat excellent local fish and chips. godolphinarms.co.uk The Ethicurean, Somerset The Ethicurean in Wrington, near Bristol, is part of a working Victorian walled garden, and occupies an old glass house overlooking the beautiful Mendip Hills. It’s been refurbished recently, but the kitchen still serves ethical, sustainable and locally sourced produce, with most of the vegetables and herbs coming straight from the walled garden in front of you. theethicurean.com The Old Coastguard, Cornwall The Old Coastguard, sister hotel to nearby Gurnard’s Head, is set in the idyllic Cornish fishing village of Mousehole (pronounced ‘Mouzzal’), close to Newlyn fish market. The views from the hotel’s tropical garden, positioned as it is on rocks looking across to St Michael’s Mount, are breathtaking and, if you watch closely, you’re sure to see dolphins and seals gliding through the water as you enjoy a meal in the restaurant or on the terrace. oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk Riley’s Fish Shack, Tyne and Wear This no-bookings seafood restaurant is well worth queuing for. It’s a rusty shipping container on the rocks above the beach at Tynemouth, with a tarpaulin-covered terrace. Watch the waves over a daily-changing menu of the day’s catch cooked in the wood-fired pizza oven, and served in brown cardboard boxes with wooden cutlery. Seafood at its simplest and with one of the best views in the North East. rileysfishshack.com Panoramic 34, Liverpool With panoramic views of the city and beyond, including the iconic River Mersey and landmarks such as Royal Albert Dock and the Three Graces, Panoramic 34 (on the 34th floor of West Tower, 300ft above sea level) certainly lives up to its name. The food is as highly rated as the restaurant’s lofty location. Try the 48-hour, slow-cooked beef short rib with puffed wild rice, aubergine ketchup and chervil powder. panoramic34.com The Leaping Hare, Suffolk As well as its 12,000 vines, the Wyken Vineyard estate is home to wild flower meadows and a beautiful formal garden, which includes a dedicated rose garden patrolled by strutting peacocks (entrance £5). Guests can explore all of this before dinner in the Leaping Hare, a converted 14th-century barn which makes exemplary use of local ingredients, a significant number of which are grown or foraged on-site. As well as producing wines such as dry, white bacchus (all available by-the-glass), Wyken grows its own asparagus. It will be served with roast rump of Suffolk lamb and spring onion hash. Follow that with toasted pine nut and honey tart with basil sorbet. wykenvineyards.co.uk Old Downton Lodge, Herefordshire Not only are they found down narrow lanes deep in jaw-dropping countryside, but the buildings of Old Downton sit around a courtyard garden of herbs, tulips and daffodils – in riot in spring. These farm buildings may be steeped in history – for instance, the dining room’s peculiar triangular windows were air vents in what was a Norman grain store – but chef Karl Martin uses the natural bounty on his doorstep in a coolly contemporary way. olddowntonlodge.com The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage, Edinburgh When it opened in November 2018, The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage was one of Edinburgh’s most anticipated restaurant openings for a long time. It’s the first ever restaurant on Calton Hill, and one that provides diners breathtaking views across the Firth of Forth and the city skyline. It’s built on a cantilever (The Lookout is partially suspended over Calton Hill’s north-west slope) and the restaurant is the third Edinburgh venture from chef director Dale Mailley, who also has The Gardener’s Cottage and Leith bakery Quay Commons. The menu features inventive seasonal dishes including cured sea trout with scurvy grass, and malted rabbit and hare yakitori. thelookoutedinburgh.co Click here for more places to eat and drink in Edinburgh Angelica, Leeds On the sixth floor of the Trinity Leeds shopping centre, Angelica has a wraparound planted terrace and panoramic city views. Seats on the terrace are highly prized when the weather allows – it’s the ideal place to relax with a cocktail and a sharing board or plate of fruits de mer. angelica-restaurant.com The Hidden Hut, Cornwall The Hidden Hut, sat on a coastal path above beautiful Porthcurnick Beach on the Roseland Peninsula of west Cornwall, is owned by the National Trust but run by chef Simon Stallard and Jemma Glass. The outdoor kitchen resembles an army field kitchen and the menu changes daily, with freshly baked pasties and good coffee and cake available before the lunch menu is chalked on the board. On a typical midsummer day, up to 2,000 customers are fed, many of them taking their food to the beach for those sea views. hiddenhut.co.uk Coast, Pembrokeshire Coast is perched on the shoreline at Saundersfoot, just metres away from the sands of Coppet Hall beach. The sea views are matched by head chef Tom Hine’s innovative seafood dishes, including the likes of cod, caramelised cauliflower and shellfish bisque. coastsaundersfoot.co.uk River Exe Café, Devon A custom-built floating restaurant surrounded by water, and only accessible by water taxi, the River Exe Café sits in the middle of the Exe Estuary in east Devon. Watch the colourful Devon sunset over food prepared by head chef Chris Dayer, and eat fresh fish from the estuary itself as you hear the water lapping around you. riverexecafe.com Crab House Café, Dorset On the water’s edge where Weymouth meets Portland Bill, the Crab House Café is essentially a weather-beaten shack attached to an oyster farm. The oysters and local crabs take star billing on the menu, which can change twice a day depending on what’s landed by day boats working out of Poole, Weymouth or Brixham. The view from the restaurant and tables on the shingle outside looks across Chesil Beach to some of the fishing boats supplying the kitchen. crabhousecafe.co.uk The Cherwell Boathouse, Oxford There can’t be many restaurants with their own punt station... but the clue here is in the name: The Cherwell Boathouse occupies half of a working Victorian boathouse, right on the River Cherwell. There are 80 punts available during the season, weather permitting, but if you just want to relax, then grab a table on the terrace and watch the punts and wildlife while making the most of an award-winning wine list. cherwellboathouse.co.uk The Wellington Arms, Hampshire If you have ever dreamed of moving to the country, raising chickens and living a life of bucolic simplicity, the Wellington Arms will leave you green-fingered with envy. This smart pub’s pretty gardens are a model of self-sufficiency. Its polytunnel, raised beds and rhubarb patch yield numerous ingredients from jerusalem artichokes to plums, and, naturally, the Welly keeps its own chickens and lambs. The kitchen makes sharp, modish use of this produce. Try roast fillet of Brixham cod with a preserved lemon and olive crust followed by jelly of their elderflower cordial with rhubarb ripple ice cream. Weather permitting, eat outside on the top lawn. thewellingtonarms.com Beach House, Gower Peninsula Whether your table is inside or on the terrace, the coastal views at this beachside gaff, towards the famous Welsh landmark Three Cliffs Bay, are breathtaking. Native Welshman head chef Hywel Griffith is passionate about local produce from the Gower coast, and that’s reflected in his menu, which often includes lobster caught from the sea directly in front of the restaurant. beachhouseoxwich.co.uk 1539 Restaurant & Bar, Chester 1539 Restaurant & Bar (named after the year racing first began in Chester) provides an unbeatable view of the world’s oldest racecourse. On race days, the glass-fronted restaurant offers a spectacular vantage point of the final furlong. restaurant1539.co.uk The Beach Hut / Watchful Mary, Cornwall The Beach Hut, part of Watergate Bay hotel, is still one of the most popular beach hangouts on Cornwall’s north coast. Walk right off the beach and grab a table on deck or inside next to the large sea-facing windows, and enjoy global seafood dishes, steaks and burgers as you watch the waves or catch those golden sunsets Cornwall is famed for. Next to The Beach Hut, on a sea wall, you will also find the recently opened Watchful Mary bar with its unbroken views out to the horizon. The name is inspired by the sunset’s rare ‘green flash’ – a ray of green light that, if conditions are right, can apparently be glimpsed as the sun dips below the horizon. The bar serves small plates, craft beers and classic cocktails with a twist. watergatebay.co.uk; watchful.co.uk The Sportsman, Kent Okay, so you can’t actually see the sea, which lies behind a seawall, but the view over the sheep-dotted marshes towards the beach huts makes a meal eaten in the conservatory a memorable occasion at The Sportsman. Located on the Thames estuary, the back of this award-winning foodie pub looks over the kitchen garden and towards The Sportsman’s new purpose-built log cabin accommodation. thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk Parker’s Tavern, Cambridge Part of University Arms hotel in Cambridge, Parker’s Tavern is the latest venture by chef Tristan Welch, who has created a seasonal menu underpinned by Cambridge and East Anglian producers. From the restaurant (or from one of the chic rooms, if you’ve made the right decision to stay over), marvel at the view of Parker’s Piece – one of the university city’s loveliest open spaces. parkerstavern.com Here are more places to eat and drink in Cambridge Lord Crewe Arms, Northumberland Set in the picture-postcard village of Blanchland, on the Northumberland and Durham borders, the 18th-century Lord Crewe Arms occupies an idyllic and timeless spot next to an ancient church and opposite the village square. Close to Hadrian’s Wall, parts of the building can be traced back to the 12th century and in summer you can enjoy lunch on the lawn of the walled garden that produces 95% of the menu’s produce. Dishes include local duck breast with summer vegetable salad and ‘rough cut’ pasta with a ‘low and slow’ ragu of Durham rare-breed pork. lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk Träkol, Gateshead Träkol is basically a series of interconnecting shipping containers on the quayside under the iconic Tyne Bridge, and as such has one of the most unique views of Newcastle across the river. An open kitchen with an open fire makes dinner here all the more special, with nose-totail dishes including grilled pork jowl and XO slaw, followed by a sharing dish of ash crust salt-baked sea bass, grilled Jersey Royals and asparagus. bytheriverbrew.co/trakol The Black Swan, North Yorkshire The restaurant at The Black Swan at Oldstead overlooks a two-acre garden that supplies much of the raw materials used in the kitchen. Tommy Banks and his family have farmed the land of Oldstead for decades and they took on the village pub in 2016 with the main intention of using their land to grow produce for the menu. The pub is also close to Sutton Bank, which has one of the finest views in England across to the Kilburn White Horse. blackswanoldstead.co.uk Words by Mark Taylor and Tony Naylor Photographs by Matt Austin, Mike Searle, Paul Massey, Nigel John, Ed Schofield, Owen Howells, Girl Behind The Lens, Luke Hayes
Wine bars are back, and this time the emphasis is on accessibility, sharing expertise, impeccably sourced bottles and well-matched food. Here are the UK’s best...
Looking for wine bars in London? Want to find the best wine shops in the UK? A new wave of hip, ultra-casual wine bars are transforming how we drink and eat. Heres our pick of the UK bars going big on exciting new wines and high quality rustic food that are set to overtake the modern British gastropub. After, check out best cocktail bars in London, the Worlds Best Bars and our favourite listening bars in London. Looking for an English vineyard break? Check out our favourite vineyards in the UK for tours, tastings and overnight stays among the vines Best wine bars in London… Top Cuvée, Highbury This friendly, understated neighbourhood wine bar and restaurant on Blackstock Road is a relaxed affair but there’s some serious drinks talent behind it, from owner Brodie Meah (ex-Heston Blumenthal drinks expert) to business partners Max and Noel Venning, owners of acclaimed cocktail bar Three Sheets in Dalston. Their wine list changes regularly but focusses on interesting low-intervention bottles, with mostly light reds and textured whites on offer. The menu lists only a few options by the glass but this is deceptive – staff are happy to let you try most wines, depending on what’s open. Winners on our visit included Lucy M 3 Colours Red: a juicy, gluggable red made, unusually, with pinot noir and two white wine grapes – pinot gris and sauvignon blanc. Another hit, Podere Pradarolo Vej 210, was a lovely malvasia with bold stone fruit notes. They also have a cocktail list courtesy of Three Sheets, featuring an elegantly tropical take on a G&T as well as a deliciously tannic margarita made with an orange wine reduction. Drinks are accompanied by an affordable, seasonal small-plates menu – try the likes of beef dripping potatoes with aïoli, charred leeks and smoked cream, and Blythburgh pork chop with burnt apple purée. topcuvee.com Passione Vino, Shoreditch Wine importers Luca Dusi and Federico Bruschetta have run this Shoreditch shop since 2013, supplying Italian wines from 75 different producers to top restaurants including Hélène Darroze at The Connaught and The River Café. Behind the shop itself is a ‘secret bar’ which also spills downstairs to the basement with small tables which can be booked. There’s no wine list or menu as customers are encouraged to discuss their tastes so the team can recommend something just a little out of their comfort zone. passionevino.co.uk Noble Rot, Holborn Noble Rot is unique in that it started out as a cult wine and food magazine, which then grew into a wine bar and restaurant in Lamb’s Conduit Street. Since it opened three years ago, it has won numerous awards (earlier this year it was the only UK winner in the World Restaurant Awards) for its wine but also its food, which is overseen by head chef Paul Weaver and consultant chef Stephen Harris (of the acclaimed Sportsman in Whitstable) who backed owners Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew. The self-styled ‘Franglaise’ menu includes beef bourguignon with kale and mash; and braised turbot with fennel and saffron velouté, which can be matched with wines ranging in price from a £22 bottle of Portuguese vinho verde to a 1990 bottle of red burgundy at £4,500. noblerot.co.uk Elliot’s, Borough Market Since opening in 2011 in the buzzing surroundings of Borough Market, Elliot’s has focussed on working with small-scale producers for both its drinks and produce, much of it sourced from the market itself. The bar adopted an all-natural or low-intervention wine list early on and has worked with Master of Wine Isabelle Legeron on its wine list. All the wine producers share the same mindful approach to wine-making as chef-owner Brett Redman does to cooking simple dishes such as grilled sweet and sour squash with chicory and Tunworth cheese, or cauliflower caponata and flaked almonds. Elliot’s also makes its own soft drinks and seasonal infused spirits. elliotscafe.com The 10 Cases, Covent Garden The name stems from the fact that this buzzy little Covent Garden bar and bistro only ever buys 10 cases of the wines on the concise list in a quest to offer customers new experiences each time they visit. It was opened in 2011 by Ian Campbell and Will Palmer, who were bored of overpriced wine lists that never changed. Will says: “I think part of the success of 10 Cases is the constantly changing wine list and having more than 300 wines with very small cash mark-ups and small corkage charges. I think the ability to be able to drink really good and interesting wine in an unpretentious setting strikes a chord with many people.” 10cases.co.uk <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2018/10/Interiors-at-The-10-Cases-London-0f6afdd.jpg" width="3976" height="2652" alt="A restaurant has white walls with wine bottles painted onto them. There is a distressed wooden bar with blue leather high stools dotted around it. The bar is laid with napkins, cutlery and wine glasses" title="Interiors at The 10 Cases Wine Bar, Covent Garden" /> Vermuteria, King's Cross Vermuteria opened at Coal Drops Yard, King’s Cross, in October 2018 and it’s the first café and bar created by chef Anthony Demetre and designer Michael Sodeau. As well as charcuterie and dishes combining European and British influences (think rabbit in mustard sauce, potato and kale; Galician octopus and chickpeas; or venison ragu and gnocchi), there are more than 70 vermouths on the list. The vermouth takes centre stage in the form of simple aperitifs and a base for cocktails such as the sbagliato (Cinzano Rosso, Campari and prosecco). vermuteria.cc Terroirs, East Dulwich A veteran of London’s wine bar ‘new wave’, the original Terroirs opened close to Trafalgar Square in 2008 and it has since been joined by a second restaurant in East Dulwich. Both sites offer the same range of natural wines, including amber (or ‘skin-macerated’ whites) and ‘oxidative’ wines – exposed to oxygen during the wine-making process to enhance their flavours. The wines are global but the food is more European: expect duck confit, quince, ginger and pangrattato, perhaps followed by halibut, kohlrabi, mussels and seaweed butter. terroirswinebar.com Quality Wines, Clerkenwell Part of the neighbouring Quality Chop House restaurant, Quality Wines is run by wine expert Gus Gluck and chef Nick Bramham. By day a deli and wine shop, it morphs into Quality Wines from 4pm with 20 seats, a vintage record player and Nick cooking delicious dishes such as slow-braised squid and Roman-style braised globe artichokes. There are around 200 bins at any one time and, since it opened in June 2018, almost 2,000 different wines have graced the shelves. Gus says: “We try to keep things interesting and ever-changing, with around 18 wines by the glass. Many of our customers end up talking to each other and sharing wine – that is a particular source of pride.” qualitywinesfarringdon.com P Franco, Clapton P Franco opened on the site of a former Chinese takeaway in Clapton in 2014. Owners Liam Kelleher and James Noble are also directors of Noble Fine Liquor, a company which has retail-only shop on Broadway Market. Initially, P Franco was a simple takeaway shop that offered a small selection of hams and cheeses, although you could have a few glasses of wine while selecting a bottle. The venue always had a lot of chefs and wine people visit, and over time it grew with resident chefs cooking down one end of the table, and there are no reservations, with walk-ins only. Anyone who cooks at P Franco has only two induction hobs to work with and they do six-month residencies with the seasonal menu changing daily. Recent residencies have included George Tomlin of The Clove Club and ex-Rochelle Canteen chef Anna Tobias. pfranco.co.uk Le Bar a Vin, Blackheath Parisian Jean-Philippe Tessier has created his own corner of France in this Blackheath wine bar, where cheese and meat platters are served alongside Gallic classics such as quiche lorraine, chicken chasseur and duck leg confit. What was once a neighbourhood Indian restaurant has been given the full French makeover, right down to the vintage belle époque posters. Jean-Philippe runs his intimate, minimalist and relaxed bar almost single-handedly and is always willing to share his wine knowledge, whether it’s about his beloved natural and biodynamic wines or which French cheeses work best with them. lebaravin.co.uk The Winemakers Club, Holborn A shop and wine bar in the Victorian arches beneath the Holborn Viaduct, the site of this bar was a wine cellar for more than 150 years, including a spell as the Oddbins’ fine wine store. The bar offers wines from small organic and biodynamic producers from around the world, all them working with the same philosophy of focussing on the region and the grape varietal, and not using chemicals. The short weekly-changing seasonal menu includes root vegetables with farro and yogurt, and pigeon, bread sauce and hazelnuts. thewinemakersclub.co.uk Sager + Wilde, Hackney With its many wines by-the-glass, its adventurousness (bottles from the Balkans and beyond), and its legendary cheese toasties, this East End venue was the first of the Capital’s new-wave wine bars, and it's still one of our favourites. sagerandwilde.com Read our full review of Sager + Wilde here... Best wine bars across the UK… Pompette, Oxford A stylish, European wine bar and restaurant – named after the French word for tipsy – from husband-and-wife team Pascal and Laura Wiedemann. Head chef Pascal helped open acclaimed new-wave London wine bar Terroirs (he also put in a stint at Racine and ran the kitchen at Six Portland Road) so the wine list is predictably interesting, a collection of Pascal and Laura’s favourite regions, styles and producers, with natural and low-intervention wines, as well as more classic ones. There’s an emphasis on France, but the menu still covers a lot of geography, from English fizz to Spanish manzanilla sherry and Georgian orange wine. The food at Pompette is gloriously French, with an emphasis on the hearty cuisine of Alsace, where Pascal’s family is from. The bar menu is simple but refined and indulgent (chips with rouille, anyone?). Corkage, Bath When Marty Grant and Richard Knighting opened the first Corkage bar at the back of a small pop-up wine shop in Bath back in 2015, their philosophy was simply to make great wine and food accessible to all in a fun, unstuffy atmosphere. Such is its popularity that there are now two permanent branches in Bath and plans for more in other cities. There is no printed menu, with all seasonal small plates listed on little blackboards read to customers at the table. And there’s no wine list, so well-informed staff can offer suggestions to match the food. corkagebath.com Bodega, Christchurch, Dorset Megan Spink and Andy Fielden’s wine bar, deli and shop has picked up countless accolades including two in the Observer Food Monthly Awards. The pair pride themselves on searching high and low for products from the very best artisans and producers. The wine menu and cheese/cured meat selections change regularly and there are weekly events including wine tastings, cocktail masterclasses and cheese and wine pairing nights. bodega-bars.co.uk The Lygon Arms, Broadway, Worcestershire This famous 17th-century Cotswolds coaching inn now has its own separate wine bar specialising in Italian and European wines by the glass, carafe and bottle. A selection of antipasti and light bites, as well as pasta, pizzas and paninis with wine-friendly fillings such as butternut squash, blue cheese and walnuts. And if you are particularly partial to one of the wines you taste, they are all available to buy in the hotel’s boutique. lygonarmshotel.co.uk Salut, Manchester “Salut aims to be the place where you want to break bread and drink wine with your pals,” says Sara Saunby, co-founder of Salut Wines, which she opened with husband Jon in 2014. With the help of an Italian Enomatic wine preservation and serving system, Salut offers around 60 wines by the glass as well as a large range of craft beers and spirits. salut.co.uk Scarlet Wines & the Vineyard Table, nr. St Ives, Cornwall “When we started, English wine was very specialist and a bit of a joke. People take it seriously now,” says Jon Keast, whose cute combined deli, bar, wine shop and restaurant is a great exponent of Cornish wines. It’s only just warm enough in Britain to grow grapes, which makes it climatically suitable for “light, aromatic, crisp white wines”, and sparkling wines that utilise the acidity of almost under-ripe grapes. Scarlet carries a global wine selection, including 10 by-the-glass, but you’ll find regional wines from Knightor or Polgoon on its shelves. Jon particularly rates Camel Valley’s sparkling rosé (pinot noir rosé brut) and Trevibban Mill’s white merope. The latter is great with the kind of sun-kissed Mediterranean seafood that appears on the Vineyard Table menu. It includes small plates (crispy squid with tomato and pepper salsa), creative flatbreads (pork and pomegranate molasses kofta) and sharing deli platters. scarlet-wines.co.uk Loki Wine, Birmingham A wine merchant and bar with its own tasting rooms, Loki has two sites in Birmingham and more than 800 wines on its list. Customers can enjoy any of these bottles on site for a nominal £7 drink-in corkage charge and Loki’s wine dispensing machines enable the bars to serve tasters of some 70 wines, which tend to be exciting new discoveries such as bottles from Japan, China and Israel, alongside classic wines from the New and Old Worlds. As well as charcuterie and cheese, sandwiches and scotch eggs, Loki also works regularly with street-food businesses to provide guest pop-ups. lokiwine.co.uk Carruthers & Kent, Newcastle-upon-Tyne Located in the Gosforth district, Carruthers & Kent is wine bar, shop and deli all rolled into one, with a tasting room where owners Claire Carruthers and Mo O’Toole host events with visiting winemakers. Carruthers & Kent serves 16 wines by the glass and any bottle off the shelves can be enjoyed for just a £5 corkage fee. There are also wine flights, a range of additional fine wines, boards of cheese and charcuterie, and homemade pies and parfaits. carruthersandkent.com Friends of Ham, Ilkley At its buzzy, informal West Yorkshire venues, Friends of Ham pushes artisan food in all its forms, from charcuterie and craft beer to small plates of raclette, boquerones or bath chaps. The European wine list at its Ilkley bar, deli and restaurant includes 25 by-the-glass with newly popular styles such as the orange wine, Baglio Bianco Catarratto, or a Melaric’s Petillant Naturel Rosé. “Pet-Nats” are sparkling wines bottled halfway through fermentation; “a great alternative to prosecco,” says owner Anthony Kitching. friendsofham.co.uk Vine, Oxford A wine shop, café and bar on vibrant Cowley Road, Vine specialises in artisan, unusual and organic wines served with cheese and charcuterie boards in a bar with a distinctive tin roof and bare brick walls. The regularly changing wine list offers a range of up to 20 wines by the glass, focussing on small producers, natural and biodynamic wines, and sustainable wine-making. It also includes vegan-friendly wine options, and the menu offers a selection of gluten-free dishes with its Spanish-, Italian- and French-inspired small plates. Vine also has a growing retail section of more than 70 wines to take away (or you can enjoy them in the bar for a small corkage fee). vineoxford.co.uk Smith & Gertrude, Edinburgh Launched in 2015 by Amy and Duncan Findlater, Edinburgh’s Smith & Gertrude was inspired by the couple’s time living and working in Melbourne, San Francisco, New York and Italy. Wines (more than 20 by the glass) and cheese are the focus but music and books come a close second with an ever-expanding and eclectic vinyl collection (team members buy one new record a week so it’s as democratic as possible) and a monthly wine and book club in collaboration with local bookshop Golden Hare Books. smithandgertrude.com Porta, Manchester Founded by brothers Ben and Joe Wright, there are now three Porta wine and tapas bars spread across the north-west, the latest of which opened in Salford at the end of 2018. The Iberian-influenced tapas – staples of jamón, croquetas and patatas bravas but also slow-roasted ox cheek, pickled walnuts and purple sprouting broccoli with romesco sauce – is complemented by a carefully curated selection of Spanish wines, cava, beer, sherries and vermouth. portatapas.co.uk Plateau, Brighton “It’s so fresh and vivid that once you’ve tasted natural wine there is no step back,” insists Thierry Pluquet, co-founder of Brighton’s evangelistic bar-restaurant, Plateau. Around 99% of its 100+ wines are natural; that is, wines made with almost no chemical or technological intervention. The natural wine movement, which began in Beaujolais in the ʼ70s, has recently swept the major French cities and is now making serious inroads in the UK. To its supporters, natural wine is a rediscovery of the true flavour of various wine styles without the dulling effects of stabilisers and preservatives such as sulphites. Chef Dan Cropper’s Plateau menu is suitably full of vibrant flavours. It takes-in bar nibbles, charcuterie and plates of cured salmon with oyster, fennel and blood orange or onglet with jerusalem artichoke. Thierry recommends easy-drinking wines from the Ardèche as an entry-point (try the Domaine les Deux Terres’ Grenache Vin Nu). Critics claim that natural wines (17 by-the-glass) don’t age well and, lacking preservatives, develop “off” flavours, but Thierry insists that problem is being resolved: “Makers are producing more stable wines, but still experimenting.” plateaubrighton.co.uk Ox Cave, Belfast Next door to Belfast’s Ox restaurant, Cave is a wine bar where you can enjoy light bites such as pickled Irish herring on toasted sourdough, or plates of carefully sourced charcuterie and cheese accompanied by high-quality wines from all over the world. It’s owned by Belfast-born chef Stephen Toman and French sommelier Alain Kerloc’h, who met while working in a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris. To encourage customers to experience new wines, you can try any by the glass and there are monthly wine tastings. oxbelfast.com Wright’s Wines, Cardiff An offshoot of the brilliant family-run Wright’s Food Emporium at Llanarthney on the edge of the Brecon Beacons, this wine bar in Cardiff’s Victorian-built Castle Arcade is certainly compact but it goes big on natural wines from small growers, served by the glass and bottle. With so little space, the food menu is understandably concise but includes coppa and piccalilli, and a welsh rarebit and leek sandwich. Visit on Sundays when it sells any bottle at ‘shelf price’ with no corkage if you drink it on the premises, which essentially means a saving of more than a third. wrightsfood.co.uk Cave du Cochon, York Cave du Cochon is owned by Victoria and Josh Overington, who also run the restaurant Le Cochon Aveugle nearby. This wine bar and bistro serves small plates, farmhouse cheeses and charcuterie from across Britain and France, with the 200 wines on the list sourced from the smaller grower-producers, most of whom use low-intervention methods. Sommelier Victoria says: “We like our wines to be a true expression of their terroir, to tell the story of what happened with each vintage. They don’t have to be specifically natural or organic, we just choose delicious wines.” caveducochon.uk Le Pinardier, Deal, Kent This sister venue to the Frog & Scot restaurant serves predominantly French organic or natural wines (10 or more by-the-glass), charcuterie and cheeses. @Le_Pinardier Buyers’ Club, Liverpool This bar, restaurant and music venue carries organic wines from as far afield as Serbia and Oregon, many natural or biodynamic. 14 by-the-glass, served with chef Dan Heffy’s creative bar menu (eg. aubergine tempura with molasses syrup). buyers-club.co.uk Beckford Bottle Shop, Bath What started as a modest shop in the Wiltshire village of Tisbury has recently grown into a flagship bar, restaurant and wine shop in Bath, which has already received rave reviews. Beckford Bottle Shop serves inventive small plates, British charcuterie and cheeses, and an enormous range of wines. This is a place where locals pop in for an informal lunch but in the evenings there are regular wine talks, wine and food courses, and private dining. All the wine shop’s bottles can be opened to enjoy with a meal in the restaurant for a simple corkage charge, which gives customers reasonable prices and a wide variety. beckfordbottleshop.com Joe’s Bar, Dartmouth On the quayside, Joe’s is a standalone bar but also an integral part of The Seahorse restaurant run for the past 10 years by chefs Mitch Tonks and Mat Prowse. This intimate, wood-panelled bar has been likened to Harry’s in Venice and it’s used by diners before and after dinner at The Seahorse, and by locals dropping in for a drink. As well as a superb range of wines (many by the glass and half-bottle), vermouths and spirits, it serves Italian salamis and cheeses, and small plates and cicchetti from The Seahorse’s kitchen. seahorserestaurant.co.uk Maul’s, Salisbury Andy Maul and his wife, Ellen, launched their eponymous wine bar on Fish Row at the end of 2017, although it wasn’t the easiest of beginnings given that the street was closed off for several months during the Novichok poisonings investigations. Business has certainly picked up since and you have to book a table most evenings, when around 30 wines by the glass are served alongside sharing slates of artisan cheeses and cured meats. maulswinebar.com The Wine Store, Charlestown, Cornwall Slap-bang in the quaint fishing village where they film much of the TV series Poldark, The Wine Store opened at the end of 2018. Adjacent to The Longstore restaurant, this new tasting lounge and shop is run by the Pollocks Pub Co and offers a wide selection of wines by small artisan producers, and resident sommelier Gina Barr is often on hand for advice on the wines and host regular tastings and events. facebook.com/thewinestorecharlestown <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2018/10/Clinking-Wine-Glasses-Outside-The-Wine-Store-Charlestown-Cornwall-577ec70.jpg" width="6000" height="4000" alt="Two people are holding glasses. One is a glass of red and the other is a glass of white. The glasses are about to touch in the image and in the background is a glass door with 'The Wine Store' etched onto it" title="Clinking Glasses Outside The Wine Store Charlestown, Cornwall" /> The Bishop’s Cave, Bishop's Stortford “I think what people enjoy about our bar is the simplicity,” muses Dan Leak, who owns The Bishop’s Cave in Hertfordshire with dad Steve. “We specialise in wine, craft beer and cheese, and we try to do them all well. We keep it relaxed, informal and sociable.” Every item is hand-picked and tested, and as well as a fantastic range of wines, the food is simple, with antipasti and cheese/charcuterie boards alongside pork pies or scotch eggs with piccalilli. thebishopscavestortford.co.uk Barrique, Lytham, Lancashire Paradise for the curious, this buzzing wine shop, deli and bar offers 24 wines in measures from 25ml. Graze on salads and charcuterie. barriquelytham.com David Brown’s Deli and Wine Bar, Whitstable A small but perfectly formed wine bar with just one table; book it to enjoy a lunch of small sharing plates such as antipasti, chicken liver parfait and locally caught fish. Swing by on a Friday night in the summer and people will be spilling out onto the street. davidbrowndeli.co.uk Words by Mark Taylor, Tony Naylor and Hannah Guinness Photographs by Sam Ashton, John Carey, Tom Parker Bowles and Whitney Hocking
Whether inland or on the coast, the UK has plenty of seafood restaurants that make the most of fresh-from-the-water produce. Here's where to get the best seafood platters, seaside lobster rolls and crab pies
Our expert guide to the best seafood restaurants in the UK. Here you will find everything from locally sourced fish, lobsters and oysters, to crab pasties and seafood pie. Best seafood restaurants in London Kerridge’s Fish and Chips at Harrods, Knightsbridge Pull up a stool and have a glass of wine and some snacks or book for a full three courses. Chef Tom Kerridge’s new restaurant in the lively, Art-Deco-inspired dining hall of the food-focussed Knightsbridge department store is high-end casual, with a menu centred on the best British seafood. Around the counter watch chefs prepare deep fried Cornish brill, line-caught squid and hand-dived scallops — all served on retro blue-and white china — with chips, tartare sauce and pease pudding. If you’re feeling flush choose native lobster or Dover sole, served whole, with herbed butter. There’s a cheeky nod to chip-shop classics in cockle popcorn and malted beer vinegar and pickled onions, eggs and dill pickles as well as triple cooked chips with toppings ranging from curry sauce to lobster thermidor. There are two desserts to choose from; flourless chocolate cake or a seasonal syllabub. Lush, as Tom would say. harrods.com/kerridges The Seafood Bar, Soho Already a raging success in the Netherlands because of its commitment to serving quality, sustainably sourced seafood at a reasonable price, this is the first international branch to open in London on Dean Street, Soho. The restaurant occupies the ground floor of a Georgian townhouse and the grand dimensions, pale wood and white interior and high ceilings give the space a luxurious but airy feel. The menu is comprehensive with several different sections covering hot and cold starters, crustaceans, oysters, fruit de mer platters, mussels, mixed seafood grills, caviar and even fish and chips. We almost go for the full bells-and-whistles giant double-decker fruit de mer platter that every table seems to be ordering, but our waiter after a hunger check-in advises a smaller platter, plus a couple of hot starters, which are both winners; sweet, juicy clams in a delicate wine and garlic sauce, and plump creamy, gratinated scallops in the shell. Our fruit de mer platter is a shellfish-lover's dream with some more unusual offerings such as razor clams, periwinkles and whole brown shrimp alongside mussels, cockles, clams, prawns, crab, seaweed salad and oysters. Everything is served simply on ice with lemon and mayo allowing the freshness and quality of the seafood to shine through — a perfect pairing with a crisp glass of Grüner Veltliner. theseafoodbar.com Bar Flounder, Hackney Broadway Market fishmonger Fin and Flounder — supplier to top London restaurants such as Bright, Brat and Rochelle Canteen — has opened a seafood stall in Netil Market. Bar Flounder uses the shop's stellar British sustainable fish and seafood to create a moreish street-food menu, from scallop and bacon butties to lobster rolls, all expertly cooked by Ruby, daughter of Fin and Flounder owner Brendan O'Sullivan. Sit at the counter and start with fritto misto — generous chunks of prawn and fish in a crisp, light, herb-flecked batter — and turbot tenders with a zingy buffalo hot sauce. Both impress, but the must-order is the moreish prawn burger, a chunky, juicy, bouncy patty served with melty cheese, chipotle mayo and pickles in a squishy brioche bun. Ordering another to eat straight after finishing the first would be entirely understandable. Sides of chips and deep-fried pickles complete the line-up (there's also a brunch menu featuring the likes of crab hash browns and lobster muffins), as well as a fun drinks offering of spritzy txakoli wine, pale ale and vermouth slushies with agave, Cointreau and soda. instagram.com/barflounder Parsons, Covent Garden With its Victorian-style white tiles and high marble-counter tables, Parsons has the feel of a traditional, old-school fish restaurant that’s been there for decades, not one that only opened in Covent Garden at the end of 2017. Sibling to The 10 Cases across the road on Endell Street, Parsons is informal enough to drop in for a half-dozen oysters and a glass of fizz, or settle down for a full-on feast of sea trout tartare with bloody mary jelly; octopus with duck-fat potatoes, paprika and parsley oil; or a hearty bowl of clam chowder packed with smoked bacon, shellfish, potatoes and cream. parsonslondon.co.uk Parsons is informal enough to drop in for a half-dozen oysters and a glass of fizz. Prawn on The Lawn, Islington Like its Cornish sibling in Padstow, Prawn on the Lawn in Islington is a fishmonger and restaurant all rolled into one. Rick Toogood and his wife Katie launched the restaurant in 2013, and since then it has expanded from its early roots as a seafood bar to a 35-seat restaurant and separate private dining room. The couple moved to Padstow two years later to open a second site and now split their time between the two restaurants. Fish and shellfish arrive daily from fish markets and day boats in Devon and Cornwall, ensuring the freshest produce ends up on ever-changing menus. Dishes might include Porthilly mussels, clams and manzanilla; ray wing with olives, chilli and agridulce; or a whole Padstow lobster with lime and coriander butter. The restaurant also runs seasonal oyster happy hours daily from 4.30pm to 6.30pm, during which time freshly shucked Porthilly oysters are served as they are or deep-fried with garlic crème fraîche. prawnonthelawn.com Prawn on the Lawn in Islington is a fishmonger and restaurant all rolled into one Bentley’s, Mayfair Discreetly located in the pedestrianised Mayfair street between Regent Street and Piccadilly, Bentley’s opened in 1916 and for the past 14 years it has been run with great success by chef Richard Corrigan. A fine-dining restaurant with a buzzy ground-floor oyster bar where you can sit at the marble counter and watch staff expertly shuck a vast range of seasonal native oysters, Bentley’s runs monthly oyster masterclasses where you can learn how to prepare your own, sample different varieties and sip a glass or two of wine. You even get your own shucking knife and recipe cards to take home. bentleys.org Sit at the marble counter and watch staff expertly shuck a vast range of native oysters at Bentley's Scott’s, Mayfair Celebrity haunt Scott’s has been a resident of Mount Street since 1967 but it actually dates back to 1851 when it was opened as an oyster warehouse, making it one of London’s five oldest restaurants. This Mayfair establishment has welcomed the great and the good for decades, and it’s where James Bond creator Ian Fleming is said to have discovered his ‘shaken not stirred’ dry martini. Since 2005, Scott’s has been owned by Richard Caring, who has retained the restaurant’s character, right down to the bowler-hatted doormen. Eat in either the oyster and champagne bar or the stylish dining room, where blackened miso salmon and goujons of Cornish sole and tartare sauce are among the signature dishes. scotts-restaurant.com Eat in either the oyster and champagne bar or the stylish dining room at Scott's. J Sheekey, Covent Garden Dating from 1896, J Sheekey is located in the heart of West End theatreland so it comes as no surprise that the walls are adorned with portraits of celebrity clientele in the four interconnecting dining rooms. Both the restaurant and its adjacent oyster bar serve an impressive choice of oysters and crustaceans, but the famous Sheekey’s fish pie, and monkfish and tiger prawn tikka masala remain firm favourites with the regulars. j-sheekey.co.uk Sheekey’s fish pie, and monkfish and tiger prawn tikka masala remain firm favourites with the regulars. Best seafood restaurants in the UK Sargasso, Margate Sargasso, recently re-opened on Margate Harbour, is a new collaboration from Ed Wilson and Josie Stead of London favourite Brawn, in partnership with Sargasso founder and owner Matthew Herbert. The kitchen is headed up by Marcelo Rodrigues (formerly of Brawn and Rubedo) and the concise menu takes inspiration from European coastal cooking, with a focus on seafood and seasonal veg. It’s made up of snacks, plus small and large plates, such as salt cod and Friggitelli peppers; sea bass, coco beans and spinach; and tomatoes, Ligurian basil and Tropea onions. The mostly French and Italian wine list (including five orange wines) starts at £5 a glass. Music is a key feature, too, with Sargasso Sundays seeing guest DJs playing from the afternoon into the evening. sargasso.bar Sur-Mer, Aldeburgh Part of restaurateur George Pell’s new venture, The Suffolk, this new restaurant spotlights sustainable fish and seafood from the county’s coast in dishes such as lobster bisque with crab toast, BBQ monkfish tail with samphire butter and whole day-boat fish cooked over coals. Look out for smoked fish from traditional smokehouse Pinneys of Orford down the road. the-suffolk.co.uk The Scallop Shell, Bath Garry Rosser opened The Scallop Shell in 2015, and since then it has scooped numerous awards for its fish and chips, and simple seafood dishes. It may be in central Bath but there is a distinctly beachy feel to the place, with a seaside palette, rope decorations and distressed wood panels. Informal and bustling, there’s an open, blue-tiled kitchen and a clawfoot bath filled with crushed ice and that day’s fish and seafood. The sourcing is impeccable, whether it’s Weymouth Bay crab and Elberry Cove mussels, or Brixham hake and Dartmouth clams. The menu even names the farms supplying the potatoes for the chips. Those in the know ask for the lavish shellfish plate piled high with Dorset crab, prawns, langoustines, mussels, clams, oysters and razor clams. Click here to read our foodie guide to Bath thescallopshell.co.uk The Fish House, Newquay When chef Paul Harwood lived in London, he used to drive to Cornwall in his old VW Beetle to indulge his passion for surfing at Newquay, so he didn’t think twice when he had the chance to open his own restaurant close to the surf school at Fistral Beach. On the north coast of Cornwall, this relaxed beachside restaurant sources much of its fish and shellfish from day boats working out of nearby Newquay harbour. Paul worked for Rick Stein for 14 years so he knows all about keeping things simple on the plate and letting the best produce shine. Typical dishes at The Fish House (which has already attracted the attention of Gordon Ramsay, who has a home nearby) include roasted half-shell scallops with serrano ham, red pepper, smoked paprika and panko crumb; and Sri Lankan prawn curry with dal and coconut sambal. thefishhousefistral.com Angela’s, Margate There has been a seafood restaurant called Angela’s on The Parade at Margate seafront for the past 60 years, but Lee Coad and his wife, Charlotte Forsdike, only became custodians of this local institution in 2017. It marks quite a career change for Lee, who used to be the art director of the Financial Times, but the couple have embraced their new lives as Kentish restaurateurs and, with the help of chef Rob Cooper, have attracted glowing reviews in their first year. Two small dining rooms separated by a central kitchen, Angela’s is as no-frills as the menu, which prides itself on simplicity and minimal waste (even the tabletops have been fashioned out of recycled plastic bags). Plump Whitstable rock oysters, mussels with cider and garlic, whole roasted plaice and thornback ray with brown butter are just some of the reasons why Angela’s is still in rude health after more than half a century. Find more places to eat in Margate here angelasofmargate.com Clam & Cork, Doncaster Open only at lunchtimes, this small seafood and champagne restaurant in the heart of Doncaster Market was launched in 2018 by chef Michael Price, who’s well known locally for his popular supper clubs. Clam & Cork hit the ground running when it received a rave review from Jay Rayner within months of opening, and tables are now in huge demand. Working closely with the market’s long-serving shellfish retailer, Michael Berry, the menu is written around what arrives on the day. A typical lunch might include natural-smoked haddock, salmon and leek chowder or seared scallops with anchovy, mint, coriander and lime dressing, followed by crispy monkfish burger and hand-cut chips, or sea bass and white crab salad with brown crab mayonnaise. doncastermarket.com/trader/clam-and-cork Pysgoty, Aberystwyth Slap-bang on the harbour front at Aberystwyth, with sweeping views of Cardigan Bay, Pysgoty is owned by husband-and-wife team Craig and Rhiannon Edwards, who also run Jonah’s, the town’s only independent fishmonger. That means the kitchen never needs to worry about having a constant supply of local fish and shellfish, and although the menu takes a global influence with dishes such as tandoori monkfish medallions or moules marinières, chef Pawel Banaszynski flies the Welsh flag with roast cod, chorizo and laverbread risotto; and Cardigan Bay lobster with herb butter and chunky chips. pysgoty.co.uk Gower Seafood Hut, The Mumbles A converted horsebox trailer located on The Mumbles promenade, the Gower Seafood Hut was a runner-up in the Observer Food Monthly’s best cheap eats category thanks to pocket-friendly street-food snacks like cockle popcorn with laverbread mayonnaise. It’s owned by Sarah Kift and Chris Price, who look to their Mediterranean holidays for inspiration – think Italian-style fritto misto of sardines, squid, whitebait, samphire and capers – but always using locally sourced fish from Swansea Bay and around the Gower coast. Look out for weekend specials such as Never Mind the Scallops: queen scallops rolled in breadcrumbs and served with retro red cocktail sauce and a wedge of lemon. Hot seafood by the sea doesn’t get much better. facebook.com/gowerseafoodhut The Little Fish Market, Hove With just 20 covers, one-man-band chef Duncan Ray’s diminutive restaurant certainly lives up to its name. But, what it lacks in space, it more than makes up for in quality, which should come as no surprise considering the fact that Duncan’s CV includes a stint at The Fat Duck and time spent working under Marco Pierre White and John Burton-Race. Cooking single-handedly, with one person (the charming Rob Smith) working front of house, this might sound like a modest operation but the £69 no-choice five-course tasting menu displays plenty of ambition and talent, with dishes such as monkfish, mussel curry and apple followed by Gigha halibut, celeriac, seaweed potato and hispi cabbage. thelittlefishmarket.co.uk Crabshakk, Glasgow Now in its 10th year, Crabshakk may be in landlocked Finnieston, part of Glasgow’s West End, but it serves some of the finest Scottish seafood. Grab a table next to grainy black-and-white photos of weather-beaten fishermen, and dig into platters of fruits de mer. The oysters, langoustines, lobsters, crabs, mussels and scallops are at the core of the menu but the shellfish chowder, bisque and tempura squid with soy and coriander dipping sauce are among the big sellers. crabshakk.com Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, Port Isaac He may have restaurants in London and Dubai, but the Cornish fishing village of Port Isaac is still the home of Nathan Outlaw’s flagship site. Awarded top spot in The Good Food Guide 2018 and 2019, this two-Michelin-star outfit serves a six-course seafood tasting menu, with standout dishes including salt cod, oxtail, sweetcorn and chilli; and turbot with squid, cep and hazelnut butter. nathan-outlaw.com The Seahorse, Dartmouth Chefs Mitch Tonks and Mat Prowse opened The Seahorse on the quayside at Dartmouth in 2008 and it quickly established itself as one of the UK’s go-to seafood restaurants. Having celebrated its 10th birthday last year, it refuses to stand still and head chef Jake Bridgwood is now developing the menu with more seafood pasta and risotto dishes inspired by travels to Italy, Portugal and Spain, as well as Venetian-style bar food in lively Joe’s Bar, next door. seahorserestaurant.co.uk Wheelers Oyster Bar, Whitstable Opened in 1856 by fisherman Richard Wheeler and his wife Mary-Ann, this legendary oyster bar has been run since the 70s by Delia Fitt, whose parents had it before her. The tiny restaurant recently underwent a refurbishment that more than doubled its covers to 40 diners per sitting. Head chef Mark Stubbs has been in the kitchen for the past 22 years and, as well as Whitstable native and rock oysters, he also serves a menu of innovative seafood dishes. wheelersoysterbar.com The Seafood Restaurant, Padstow When Rick Stein opened The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow back in 1975, he couldn’t have possibly imagined it would still be fully booked in 2019 and part of what has become a restaurant empire and global brand. Stein may no longer be behind the stoves but his long-serving head chef Stephane Delourme still recreates classic dishes such as bouillabaisse of turbot, cod, sea bass, mussels and langoustines, or roast tronçon of wild turbot with hollandaise for those lucky enough to get a table. rickstein.com Fresh from the sea, Port Isaac Fisherman Calum Greenhalgh catches the shellfish, which he carries 100 metres from his boat, Mary D, to the café where his wife Tracey cooks it for lunch. At the top of the hill overlooking the harbour at Port Isaac, the aptly named Fresh From The Sea opened in 2010 and now attracts customers from as far afield as Australia and Canada. “We first opened thinking Tracey and I could run the place between us but now most days in the summer there are four members of staff on and an extra two people just to hand-pick the crab." Served on locally baked bread, perhaps accompanied by a glass of Padstow Brewery beer or Cornish Camel Valley wine, the crab sandwich (which local Michelin-starred chef Nathan Outlaw claims to be the best he has ever tasted) and the lobster salad are safe bets. Other options include Porthilly oysters, homemade smoked mackerel pâté and toast, or a simple Davidstow cheddar cheese and chutney sandwich. freshfromthesea.co.uk Dungeness Snack Shack, Dungeness Right on the shingle beach at Dungeness, the Snack Shack is next to the Fish Hut, where the daily catch is sold. The view from the shack is across the beach and of the boats that supply both businesses daily. The Shack opened in spring 2013 under Kelly Smith who was just returning to her job with Kent Police following maternity leave. Using her savings, she bought a catering trailer and set up at the weekends selling hot fish rolls. Four years on and the menu at the Snack Shack has expanded, but it’s still driven by whatever the boats bring in – crab flatbreads and lobster rolls at this time of year. When they don’t have native lobsters, the £3.50 fisherman rolls (two fillets of that day’s catch cooked on the grill and served hot in a bun) and lemon sole flatbreads with chilli and lime, with beers from Romney Marsh Brewery, are always popular. dungenesssnackshack.net Billy Winters, Weymouth Run by oyster farmer Nigel Bloxham, who also owns the Crab House Café at nearby Wyke Regis, Billy Winters comprises three converted shipping containers on the beach overlooking the white cliffs of Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door. With chefs Tom Kerridge and Mark Hix among its many fans, Billy Winters is open all day throughout the year (except January), come rain or shine. There are breakfasts of Dorset-made chorizo hash, and lunches of wood-fired sourdough pizzas, crisp mackerel baps and the best-selling vegetarian beetroot burger with chilli, tomato and ginger ketchup. Foraged ingredients from the local beaches also make an appearance – the Salty Fingers margarita cocktail contains sea blite (an evergreen shrub) from the shore outside. All the meat and fish is from Dorset and if the kitchen has to look further for ingredients then it’s from within the West Country, including rope-grown mussels from Fowey in Cornwall. Ferry Bridge Boatyard, Portland Road, Weymouth. Lobster Shack, North Berwick The Lobster Shack is situated on the quayside at North Berwick, overlooking the boats in the harbour. Open between April and October, virtually everything on the menu is sourced locally, whether it’s lobsters and crabs caught by fisherman Jack Dale in the Firth of Forth, fish from Musselburgh, smoked salmon from the Belhaven Smokehouse or fruit and vegetables from nearby farms. Although grilled lobster is the main draw of this waterfront shack (the clue’s in the title), the fish and chips are the stuff of local legend, as is the crab and prawn cocktail, the mussels marinière and the seafood scotch egg. A chilled glass of locally made Mutley’s lemonade or a bottle of Intergalactic – dry-hop lager from Belhaven Brewery in nearby Dunbar – goes down rather nicely, too. lobstershack.co.uk The Crab Shed, Isle of Wight Amanda Wheeler and her husband Jim started out selling crab pasties in 2002 as a way of diversifying from the family fishing business. Jim and his brother Mark are from a long line of local shellfishermen that dates back to the 15th century. Open seasonally from April to October, the Crab Shed occupies a spot in Steephill Cove, one mile south of Ventnor. It overlooks the beach with bench-style seating, where you can enjoy those honed pasties, fresh mackerel ciabattas and crab burgers from a short menu featuring seafood caught by the owners themselves. steephillcove-isleofwight.co.uk The Hidden Hut, Porthcurnick Beach, Cornwall On a National Trust-owned coastal path perched above the dunes of Porthcurnick beach, The Hidden Hut can be reached only by foot. The seating is outside, but that doesn’t stop thousands of people flocking here each summer. There’s a small menu chalked up daily – sometimes twice a day during busy periods – and on a typical lunchtime, there’s usually a soup and a curry on the outdoor stove, local fish or meat cooked over wood on the charcoal grill and served with salad and flatbread; and freshly baked pasties and sausage rolls. Look out for St Mawes smoked haddock chowder, pasties (naturally), and regular feast nights, which can draw hundreds, some of whom camp overnight nearby. “We are very lucky to have such great produce on our doorstep and it’s not just the seafood either – the beef and lamb are reared in the fields behind us and the heritage vegetables are grown in an allotment just up the road,” says chef co-owner Simon Stallard. “Thinking about it, if it’s not actually from the sea, most of the produce has a sea view!” hiddenhut.co.uk The Company Shed, West Mersea, Essex Separated from the River Blackwater by a boat yard, the Company Shed was opened 30 years ago by Heather Haward, who started by selling shrimp, crab and oysters through the window. It progressed to having counters inside selling fish and shellfish to take away, then one table so people could eat there. Now run by Heather’s daughter Caroline, there are more tables and a proper menu, but it remains a no-frills place with dishes such as mussels steamed with onion, garlic and cider, and fried spicy crabcakes with sweet chilli dip. If you’re hungry after your meal, you can, of course, still grab fresh local fish, oysters, lobsters and whelks to take home. thecompanyshed.co Crab Shack, Bryher, Isles of Scilly Just 10 yards from the beach, the majority of visitors to The Crab Shack arrive by boat from the neighbouring islands of Tresco and St Mary’s. Since 2014, this seasonal venue (it opens Tuesday to Thursday evenings between May and September) has showcased fresh Isles of Scilly shellfish and has just three dishes on the menu – Bryher crab (medium, large or ‘monster’ size), mussels and scallops – served informally in Portuguese cataplanas. hellbay.co.uk The Boathouse, Isle of Gigha The Boathouse restaurant on the Isle of Gigha is set in one of the most stunning locations off the West coast of Scotland. Slap-bang on the beach, it was taken over at the end of 2016 by former customer James Clark and his family, who relocated to the island from Glasgow. The family’s links to the area was their nearby caravan that had made The Boathouse their weekend sanctuary. The menu showcases the abundant local seafood including halibut, lobster and oysters; local fishermen land the seafood in the morning and it’s on the menu by the same evening. boathouseongigha.com Words by Mark Taylor Photographs by Kelly Smith, Lara Jane Thorpe, VisitScotland, Amanda Wheeler, Sally Mitchell, Red Air Drones, Rachel Palmer, Warren Draper, Carol Ann Peacock, Kate Whitaker, Ed Ovenden, Paul Winch-Furness, Jean Cazals, Justin De Souza
From pastry masterclasses in London to seasonal fermentation workshops in Devon, these are the best cookery schools to visit across the country
Looking for cooking schools in the UK? Want to master pastry work? Check out our expert guide to the best cooking classes and cooking schools across the UK. Thyme, Gloucestershire – best plot to plate cookery school Set on the Oxfordshire and Gloucestershire border, the Thyme cookery school makes the most of the fact it’s part of a 150-acre working farm surrounded by meadows. Classes often start in the kitchen garden, showing guests how the produce is grown before harvesting for their menu, and cooking under the guidance of the Thyme chefs. The Instinctive Cook is Thyme’s flagship course, exploring seasonal flavour combinations. Whether it’s for a dinner party, baking bread or learning how to make cocktails, shrubs, cordials and syrups with herbs and seasonal fruits, these relaxed, hands-on courses often feature tastings and a lunch. You can also extend your visit with stay in the luxury grounds and dine at the newly opened Ox Barn on site , or The Swan pub across the road, which is all owned by the same family. thyme.co.uk Pie Room, London – best pastry school For an intimate lesson in pies and pastry work from one of the world’s leading experts, look no further than olive Chef Awards winner Calum Franklin. Now offering two-and-a-half-hour hands-on masterclasses from his ornate ‘pie room’ at Holborn Dining Room, Calum shows between two and eight guests how to make the perfect pork pie, followed by a G&T in the neighbouring Gin Bar, and a candlelit three-course dinner. The £250 price tag also includes an apron and the recipes to take home, and, of course, the pies themselves. holborndiningroom.com Exeter Cookery School – best cookery school with a view Occupying a stunning location on the Devon city’s historic quayside, Exeter Cookery School prides itself on running “fun and friendly” cookery courses. Owners Jim and Lucy Fisher ran a cookery school in France for 15 years before returning to the UK to open in Exeter in 2016. In the two years since they opened in a converted 1830s warehouse, this dynamic couple have gained a reputation for running one of the most respected cookery schools in the South West. Former MasterChef semi-finalist Jim worked alongside Rick Stein in Padstow and Alastair Little in Notting Hill before turning his hand to teaching. Overlooking the canal basin next to a canoe centre, the school is perfectly placed in an area that’s fast becoming Exeter’s food and activity hub. Each course is packed with cheffy tips, tricks and techniques honed by Jim in busy restaurant kitchens but adapted to use in the home, and designed to make cooking for family and friends easy and stress-free. New courses for 2019 include Indian cookery with guest chef Nila Ross-Patel (click here for the best Indian cookery courses across the UK), cheese-making courses with Louise Talbot, and a butchery masterclass with Peter Greig of Pipers Farm. exetercookeryschool.co.uk Kaleyard, Glasgow – best community service cookery school Founded by author and cookery teacher Sumayya Usmani, Kaleyard (meaning ‘kitchen garden’) is Glasgow’s first non-profit social enterprise school for cooks and its mission statement is to “unite people through cooking, eating and sharing food together”. Sumayya says she believes anybody can make affordable, seasonal and healthy food from scratch by grasping the basics of cooking, and she is a firm believer in giving people the confidence to cook. Using profits from its masterclasses and pop-up events, Kaleyard offers free or subsidised cookery classes to different community groups and schools across Glasgow. Helped by volunteers and supporters, Sumayya’s classes range from Scottish cookery and baking, to food photography and writing, and forthcoming subjects include South Indian cook and dine; summer fermentations and gut health; and knife skills and basic no-waste cookery. kaleyard.org Make the most of your time in Glasgow with our food and drink guide here... Leeds Cookery School – best cookery school with a conscience Based in an old fire station just outside the city centre, Leeds Cookery School calls itself a cookery school with a conscience. All the profit it makes goes back to help local charity Zest, which offers support and opportunities to disadvantaged local people, addressing health inequalities and social isolation through activities which improve physical, mental, social and emotional wellbeing. There are more than 30 classes on offer, all taught by trained chefs such as cookery school manager Simon Chappelow, who has worked at many top restaurants across Yorkshire. The lessons range from hour-long classes to whole-day courses and include patisserie, chocolate-making, pie-baking and fish and seafood preparation. There’s also a junior cookery course (for children aged 12 and over) that includes how to make bread, pizza, risotto, curry and different types of pastry. leedscookeryschool.org.uk More places to eat and drink in Leeds here... The Grand, York – best state-of-the-art cookery school Part of a £15 million expansion and refurbishment at The Grand in York, this new cookery school is aimed at home cooks of all abilities but there’s also academy classes for those looking to advance their skills. A stunning open-plan design includes bi-folding doors and glass panelling connecting the spaces which are flooded with natural light. The school has 16 workstations, each equipped with a top-of-the-range induction hob, electric oven and premium cookery equipment. Sessions range from £65 for a half day to full-day courses from £145. Guests will learn how to prepare dishes focussed on fresh local produce. The purpose-built space offers an adjoining meeting area as well as a separate screening room for lectures and talks, with an external courtyard complete with herb garden and seating area. And it’s not just adults who are welcome – children have the opportunity to get involved with bespoke classes during the school holidays. thegrandyork.co.uk Here are our favourite places to eat and drink in York to make a really foodie weekend out of it. WSET School, across the country – best drinks school Though known in the drinks industry for its specialist qualifications in wine, spirits and sake, the Wine & Spirit Education Trust also offers courses to suit a novice looking to deepen their knowledge. Its Level 1 Award in Spirits is an accessible one-day course where students explore the basics of spirit production, the main categories and styles – from brandy to tequila – and how different factors, such as distillation methods or barrel ageing, can affect flavour. The content does get a little technical at times but this is balanced by an accessible teaching style, plenty of recapping throughout and the chance to sample lots of different spirits. The latter is one of the most rewarding aspects of the course, as students are guided through tutored tastings that show them how to describe and appreciate each spirit, from aroma and intensity to palate and finish. The day finishes with an exam of multiple-choice questions, and passing gives a qualification that makes a great launch pad for higher WSET awards. The Level 1 Award in Spirits is available across the country (visit the website for a list of approved programme providers). Prices vary but a course at the flagship WSET School London costs £175. It also offers a version of the course that takes in private tours of two London gin distilleries, split over two dates (27 April & 4 May; £185). wsetglobal.com River Cottage The 17th-century whitewashed farmhouse on the Devon/Dorset border that was first brought to foodie attention by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (it’s at the heart of his River Cottage HQ) has long been a place of pilgrimage for those wanting to learn how to bake sourdough, cure and smoke pork, cook over fire or preserve hedgerow finds. The quintessential countryside experience begins at the tractor stop at the top of the farm. Guests wait beside a wood-burning fire with a mulled cider to be picked up in a trailer for the bumpy journey down to a collection of farm buildings strung with fairy lights. In the past, however, the site was only open to visitors during the day. Now, the farmhouse has been cosily kitted out and opened up to overnight guests, too, so make a weekend of your visit and stay in the main farmhouse. rivercottage.net Best classic cookery schools The esteemed cookery schools that have been at the top of their game for years... Demuths, Bath Open since 2001, Demuths in Bath is run by Rachel Demuth, one of the UK’s leading plant-focussed chefs. Classes aren’t just for vegetarians and vegans – there’s an extensive range of courses and Rachel says “anything fermented” is in high demand at the moment, especially how to make your own fermented vegan cheese, as well as classes on Ethiopian and Korean cuisine. Click here for the best vegetarian and vegan cookery courses across the UK. demuths.co.uk Leiths School of Food and Wine, London Since Leiths was founded by Prue Leith and Caroline Waldegrave in 1975, it has become a respected leader in culinary training and continues to move with the latest food trends, tapping into a broad range of cooking styles, including home smoking and preserving. And for those home cooks unable to travel to London, there’s even an online course for Leiths’ Essential Cooking Certificate so you can learn through your smartphone or tablet. leiths.com Raymond Blanc Cookery School, Oxfordshire With its two Michelin stars, the Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire remains one of the UK’s best-known restaurants and hotels but its Raymond Blanc Cookery School is now a destination in its own right. Overseen by head tutor Mark Peregrine (who worked with Blanc to win the first Michelin star more than 30 years ago), the school offers a wide range of courses, from half-day introductions to residential programmes, including dinner party masterclasses and children’s cookery courses. New for 2019 is a full-day vegan course, launching in March, which will teach guests how to create healthy, nutritionally balanced vegan meals. raymondblanc.com The School of Artisan Food, Nottinghamshire For those looking to transform from keen foodie to pro, Nottinghamshire’s School of Artisan Food covers all aspects of artisan food production – covering short courses (from cheese-making and curing, to brewing and butchering) through to full-time diplomas (such as the six-month advanced diploma in artisan baking). As a registered charity, the school, which turns 10 this year, also offers bursaries. schoolofartisanfood.org The Bertinet Kitchen, Bath The Bath cookery school run by French baker and chef Richard Bertinet has become the go-to place to learn about bread and patisserie. To mark the publication of his new book, Crumb, Bertinet will run five-day baking courses. The spring schedule at the school also includes a polenta masterclass and how to make a showstopping layer cake. thebertinetkitchen.com Ashburton Cookery School, Devon Now into its 27th year, the Ashburton Cookery School on the edge of the Dartmoor National Park in Devon is one of the most established in the country and its team of tutors include several chefs who previously worked in some of the South West’s top eateries, including Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant in Cornwall and The Horn of Plenty in Devon. Whether it’s a half-day sushi course or a 10-day course for aspiring yacht chefs, there is something for all abilities. The cookery school even has rooms for those who want to stay overnight. ashburtoncookeryschool.co.uk More travel inspiration... 12 small towns across the UK every foodie should visit The UK's best pubs with rooms UK boutique hotels for food lovers 10 exciting UK city breaks for food lovers Best restaurants with rooms UK spa hotels for food lovers Best romantic UK hotels Best seaside staycations Best country hotels
Avocados are out and zhoug is in. Consider this your essential ABC of the year’s hottest food and drink trends
Looking for new restaurants and the latest foodie trends? Here are our top picks for food trends for 2019... Filipino restaurants Could 2019 see more Filipino restaurants opening in the UK? After the success of Kinilaw and Buko in Hoxton (where dishes include salted duck egg, heirloom tomato, mustard leaf and grated cured yolk; and hand-dived scallop, cucumber, radish, lime and fermented roe), the Filipino fast-food chain Jollibee opened in Earl’s Court, serving dishes such as the signature fried chicken with its side of spaghetti, tomato sauce topped with hotdog slices and ground beef. Described as a cross between McDonald’s and KFC, Jollibee has 1,300 branches worldwide and the chain plans to open a further 25 stores in the UK over the next five years. The rise of veganism and flexitarians It’s official. Meat-free foods are in the mainstream now, with a report from market research firm Mintel claiming that 56% of UK adults have eaten vegetarian food and 34% of Brits have either limited or reduced their meat intake in the past year. Supermarkets such as Waitrose (the first in the UK to add a dedicated vegan section in 125 stores nationwide) and Iceland have embraced the rise of veganism and now you can buy anything from ‘fish-less’ fish fingers made with tofu and seaweed to a beetroot wellington. To highlight this shift from minority interest to mainstream, the latest edition of The Good Food Guide now highlights restaurants with specifically vegan menus. Check out our best vegan recipes here. An increasing number of people are also identifying as ‘flexitarian’ (only eating meat and fish occasionally), opting for a plant-focussed diet when cooking at home or eating out. Rosa’s Thai Cafe chain has been a trailblazer in bringing more choice to flexitarian diners, and owner Saiphin Moore says the past year has seen more customers asking for meatless dishes. She says: “Offering vegetarian options has always been very important to us and I think meat-free foods will only become more popular. Our stir-fry aubergine with chilli and holy basil is one of our most popular dishes, for meat eaters and vegetarians alike.” Oldroyd, Tom Oldroyd’s eponymous restaurant in Islington (discover our Islington foodie guide here), introduced a weekly-changing meat-free Monday menu that became so popular he introduced a dedicated vegetarian and vegan Christmas menu. He says: “We used to get one or two requests a week for vegan dishes but it’s now a daily occurrence. That’s why we wanted to dedicate a whole day to being meat-free. It gives us time to experiment, keeps us thinking about new dishes and inevitably spills out into the rest of the week. Since offering meat-free (and 80% vegan) Mondays we’ve seen our customer numbers double on this day.” Iranian restaurants Persian cooking is not new to the UK – Hafez in Notting Hill (check out our guide to the best restaurants in Notting Hill here), for example, is still going strong after 35 years – but there’s a notable trend emerging towards restaurants with a specific Iranian focus. Early 2019 will see the launch of Nutshell in Covent Garden (we've compiled the best restaurants in Covent Garden here), an Iranian restaurant from ex-Noma chef Leonardo Pereira, who will use British produce for dishes such as overnight coal-baked squash, barberries and saffron curds; goat leg, grilled onions, buttermilk and coriander; and pomegranate, goat’s milk and pistachio. Nutshell follows hot on the heels of Berenjak in Soho (read our restaurant review here), which is styled on the hole-in-the-wall kabab houses of Tehran. From the same team behind Gymkhana and Brigadiers (check out our Brigadiers restaurant review and party menu here), the kitchen at Berenjak is run by Kian Samyani, who has drawn on his Persian upbringing to create dishes including blackened aubergine with whey, walnuts and dried mint; poussin marinated in chilli, sumac, garlic and red pepper; and slow-cooked lamb shank with fenugreek, dried lime and kidney beans. Zhoug Move over pesto, make room harissa, there’s a new condiment on the rise. Hailing from Yemen, zhoug is a vibrant, spicy paste made from coriander, cumin, parsley and green chilli. Popular in Israeli street food, it’s a perfect accompaniment to grilled lamb and roasted vegetables, as well as stirred into yogurt as a dip or with wine vinegar for a punchy dressing. Available in supermarkets under the Belazu brand, you can also buy zhoug via the website of Yotam Ottolenghi, who is also one of the condiment’s most high-profile advocates. Check out our roasted cauli and couscous salad with zhoug and crispy shallots in the January issue of the magazine. Brexit fallout At the time of writing, and with a deal still on a knife edge, the long-term effect of Brexit on the food industry is unknown. Could it result in a ‘national food crisis’? Are the government and businesses really stockpiling food in case of shortages – the worst since wartime rationing? It’s too early to say, but we do know that the hospitality sector is already suffering as EU nationals leave the UK for fear of losing their jobs in restaurants and hotels, and very few are arriving to replace them. At a time when demand has never been higher for eating out, there may be fewer staff to serve and cook, leading to some places reducing their opening hours or closing their doors completely. We’re told that post-Brexit food prices are likely to rise significantly and there could be a shortage of certain products – after all, half of the food in Britain is imported and 30% comes from EU countries. On the upside, there is talk of more hospitality apprenticeships to encourage home-grown talent, and any food shortages may encourage us to grow more in the UK. Whatever happens, it’s pretty clear that the world of food and drink in the UK will look very different after 29 March. Watch this space. Retro dishes are back Once the preserve of 70s dinner parties and 80s office buffets, the humble vol au vent has shaken off its dated image and been revived by a number of top chefs. At Christmas in 2017, Hélène Darroze launched a Hélène at Home range of party food at the Harrods Food Hall, which included vol au vents filled with lobster, sweetbreads and salsify. Bristol restaurant Wellbourne has a number of seasonal vol au vents (the trompettes version being our favourite); and crab vol au vents with avocado, green apple and crab bisque have become an Insta-favourite at Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, where other retro dishes such as beef faggots are served with mustard mash, charred onions and trompettes. Who else is hoping for next-gen cheese and pineapple hedgehogs? Greek Wine Greek wine can be traced back to the days when Hippocrates used it for medicinal purposes, but now the Greek mainland and islands like Crete and Santorini are gaining a formidable reputation for award-winning wines. Forget those rough, tongue-stripping bottles of retsina you tried on Greek holidays with your parents (check out our top picks for best places to eat and drink in the Greek islands here) – there is a lot of excellent wine emerging from the country and some of it is already reaching the supermarket shelves. Look out for wines made with the red grape xinomavro – M&S sells a rich and smooth steak-friendly one produced by the dynamic young winemaker Apostolos Thymiopoulos. Whey as an ingredient A byproduct of cheese-making, whey is the liquid left after milk has been curdled and strained. Often turned into soft whey cheeses such as ricotta, it is increasingly being used by enterprising chefs who like to reduce waste. Mark Jarvis, the chef-owner of Anglo, Neo Bistro and Stem restaurants in London, serves a starter of whey with English peas, black garlic emulsion and salted egg yolk; while Douglas McMaster (olive Chef Awards winner) at Brighton’s Silo has served whey with potatoes and blackberries. Food writer and River Cottage chef Gill Meller recently used whey in a soda bread recipe developed for Quicke’s. He says: “[Whey] makes a great alternative to stocks in creamy soups, it’s perfect for gently poaching fish or pork in and it makes an absolutely delicious sorbet”. In Edinburgh, Scott Smith at Fhior uses his to make caramel in a dessert of raw rhubarb, white chocolate and meadowsweet yogurt, and has even tried carbonating it. Look out for this low-waste by-product on a menu near you. Meaty veg Jackfruit, often used as a pulled pork replacement, was huge last year but the next ‘meaty’ vegetable, according to buyers at New Covent Garden Market, will be mushrooms. Varieties like Hen of the Woods, Beefsteak (which even ‘bleeds’ when cut) and the more common portobello all have a firm, fleshy texture that makes them ideal steak replacements in meat-free recipes. Booze-free spirits Since the success of Seedlip, the market for non-alcoholic spirits has grown rapidly. Whether you’re a designated driver or simply want to cut down on the booze, non-alcoholic alternatives are going to continue to be big in 2019 as premium brands such as the vodka-like Stryyk (a distilled herbal and botanical drink) and Monte Rosso Non Alcoholic Apéritif (an Italian orange-red drink that makes a booze-free cocktail) reach the supermarket shelves. Drinking apple cider vinegar Drinking vinegar for medicinal reasons has been around for centuries and many people swear by it to help reduce weight, support gut health and reduce blood sugar. We’re not talking the vinegar you splash on your chips – apple cider vinegar has a rounded flavour and products such as the raw, unfiltered Bragg Organic Apple Cider Vinegar (sold in Holland & Barrett) is made with mother of vinegar. Waitrose saw sales of apple cider vinegar rise 60% this year. It’s best to check with a medical professional before drinking vinegar on a regular basis – highly acidic, vinegar can destroy teeth enamel, cause burns in your throat and upset your stomach, so it must be diluted. Check out your local deli for new drinking vinegars emerging this year. Goat meat British goat meat has been a trend for a couple of years but it’s finally becoming more widely available and less niche, according to James Whetlor, the former chef who now runs Cabrito Goat Meat in Devon and supplies a number of top restaurants across the UK. Goat meat is now appearing on more menus and it’s becoming easier for home cooks to source. James says: “Goat is unquestionably becoming more mainstream as more butchers are stocking it, and I’m getting more mail orders. By the end of 2019 it will be in supermarkets, no question.” Check out our Jamaican goat curry and Trini curry goat. Boiled eggs are back! For years the much-maligned staple of family picnics – when overcooked yolks were more grey than golden – the humble boiled egg is back. Whether it’s in classic egg mayonnaise, a chopped salad (think retro Russian salad or high end chopped egg salad with bottarga at Michelin-starred Brat) or devilled, this cheap, high-protein food deserves to make a comeback. Try these pretty devilled coronation eggs... The end of the avocado? News that the avocado isn’t truly vegan (growers rely on ‘migratory bees’ which are trucked across countries to pollinate crops, disrupting the natural rhythm of the colony) and that they are harmful to the environment (it takes around 272 litres of water to grow a single avocado) could mean people are looking for an alternative to smash or spread onto their toast. Sales of nut-based spreads have soared meanwhile, especially peanut butter. High in protein and easily spreadable on your morning sourdough, spreads such as Whole Earth’s peanut butter with sunflower, pumpkin and flax seeds may well replace smashed avocado in 2019. Dessert-only venues The good news for diners who want to skip dinner and go straight to the sweet stuff is the continuing trend for high quality, dessert-only venues. Cakes & Bubbles at the Hotel Café Royal in London’s Regent Street is the latest example of this. Run by Spanish pastry chef Albert Adrià (brother of Ferran of the legendary Michelin three-star restaurant elBulli) who runs Tickets, Barcelona’s hottest restaurant, Cakes & Bubbles serves a menu of incredible desserts including Albert’s signature (and surprising) Tickets cheesecake, and egg flan with dark caramel. Sweet-toothed diners can also get their fix at Whipped in Covent Garden, run by former Le Gavroche chef and patissier, Alice Churchill. This new dessert spot serves delicious ‘whipped’ frozen cheesecakes, including an entirely vegan option, and signature whips such as The Kensington Princess (scone crumb, classic vanilla cheesecake, raspberry gel and champagne meringues topped with gold leaf). Is French food fashionable again? Rewind 30 years and there were French restaurants all over the UK but they slowly disappeared as diners travelled further and fell for the charms of other world cuisines. Of course, there are still beacons of classic French cooking at long-established places like Le Gavroche and Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, but now there’s a new wave of modern French restaurants. Tom Oldroyd’s The Duke of Richmond may be a Hackney pub but the cooking is inspired more by France with dishes like ratatouille Provençal, goat’s curd and baked garlic bread or onglet steak a la bordelaise. The latest example of this Gallic-influenced trend is Caractère in Notting Hill where Emily Roux and ex-Gavroche head chef Diego Ferrari are combining French and Italian dishes, including roast rack of Herdwick lamb, grilled aubergine, ras el hanout and lamb jus. Colourful fruit and veg Those in the know at New Covent Garden Market, which supplies fruit and vegetables to many of London’s top restaurants and countless greengrocers say colourful fruit and vegetables will be big over the next 12 months. After last year’s purple cauliflowers and brussels sprouts, things will take an even darker turn in 2019 as black potatoes, radishes and corn make an appearance on the shelves of your local fruit and veg stall, alongside candy-striped beetroots and yellow heritage carrots. Instagrammers need not fear as colourful berries – think UK-grown golden raspberries, white strawberries and pink blueberries – will be around in summer to brighten things up, too. Craft ciders After beer, it was, perhaps, inevitable that cider would be the next drink to get a ‘craft’ makeover. Often using the same production techniques as champagne, there is a move towards ciders made from long-lost and revived single variety apples, with no nasty additives and minimal intervention between orchard and bottle. Look out for exciting new producers such as Find & Foster in Devon, and Little Pomona Cider from Herefordshire as leading examples of this burgeoning market. Bitter drinks You only have to look at how popular gin and negronis have become to see that our palates are changing and that we’re craving more bitter flavours in our drinks. Aperol and Campari are still very much go-to drinks in restaurants and cocktail bars, but others are now gaining ground. We’ve seen French-made Suze served as part of a white negroni, and the Italian drink Cynar used in a gin fizz. Wine bars After the success of new-wave London establishments such as Noble Rot and Terroirs, a number of small, interesting, neighbourhood wine bars are opening up across the UK, many of them serving several wines by the glass, plates of well chosen charcuterie, artisan cheeses and small plates. From the Twisted Cellar in Bishop’s Stortford and Wright’s in Cardiff to Docket No 64 in Chester (run by ex-Gordon Ramsay chef Stuart Collins) and Carruthers & Kent in Newcastle upon Tyne, these relaxed venues also often host tasting events and have shops where you can buy wine to take home. We’ll raise a glass to the prospect of many more such wine bars opening in 2019. Burmese food Not tried the unique Southeast Asian food of Myanmar (formerly Burma) before? Now’s your chance. Fragrant and lightly spiced, many Burmese dishes contain fish sauce, tamarind, cardamom and fresh herbs such as coriander and lemongrass. Such was the success of Burmese Lahpet’s Hackney warehouse pop-up that it opened a permanent restaurant in Shoreditch in 2018, as well as a street-food kitchen at Old Spitalfields Market. Signature dishes at Lahpet include hake masala with lemongrass rosti, and stuffed aubergine with dried shrimp and oyster mushroom. In Huddersfield, Cafe Mandalay serves dishes such as sautéed wild mushrooms on a bed of chilli-dressed udon noodles, pickled mushrooms, mustard greens, crispy rice noodles and shallots. And, Nila’s Burmese Café in Manchester’s Trafford Park is proving a hit thanks to main courses including local pork shoulder slow-cooked with tamarind, spices, garlic and ginger. And it’s not just restaurants where people are discovering Burmese food. The success of east London supper club Rangoon Sisters – aka NHS doctors Emily and Amy Chung, who were listed in the OFM Top 50 this year – has seen more Burmese supper clubs start up, and this June sees the launch of Mandalay: Burmese Food & Beyond, a new book by MiMi Aye featuring nearly 100 simple Burmese recipes – from the national dish of mohinga (a fish chowder with rice noodles and lemongrass, traditionally served at breakfast) to lahpet thoke, a classic Burmese salad of pickled green tea leaves. Zero waste We all know that single-use plastic is a bad thing for the environment, and many of us have made great efforts to reduce our consumption this year. In 2019 let’s up the ante and do a complete sustainability overhaul of our kitchens. We’re doing it in the olive test kitchen – where possible, swapping clingfilm for beeswax wraps and containers; recycling carrier bags; working with more eco-conscious suppliers; making the most of our leftovers; reducing our food waste overall, and plenty more besides. Check out the growing number of package-free, zero-waste shops, such as the newly opened Sea No Waste in Arbroath, a shop that sells only loose fruit and vegetables, has local apple juice on tap and makes its own nut butter. Sea No Waste even sells paper ‘soup bags’ containing the exact ingredients for a seasonal soup with a recipe attached – an ingenious way of reducing packaging and food waste at the same time. Ripple, by former food writer Sophie Rae (pictured), opened in Cardiff in November, and stocks some 160 bulk whole foods, grains, legumes, nuts, seeds, cereals and dried fruits, as well as Welsh yogurt, eggs and milk, local kombucha with a glass bottle return scheme, plus pump-dispensed detergents, cleaning supplies and dishwasher powder, and much more. British rum Interest in rum is growing as quickly as it was for gin five years ago, and although there are still plenty of interesting new Caribbean rums on the market, the smart money is on the homegrown distilleries. With its tasting notes of toffee and treacle, Cambridge-made Old Salt Rum is one of the few rums to be produced in the UK, and Dark Matter is from a distillery in Aberdeenshire run by the Ewen brothers, Jim and John, who have made a molasses-based spiced rum with hints of long pepper, fresh ginger, green peppercorns and allspice. The newest addition to this British rum revolution is Glasgow’s Wester Spirit Co run by Zander Macgregor and Allan Nairn. Using the latest tech and copper stills, they produce small-batch spiced rum with hints of vanilla and citrus zest. Mylks You can seemingly ‘milk’ anything these days but there’s a huge variety of non-dairy, plant-based milks in the mainstream now, and lots of cafés are starting to make their own. Just Mylk is a small batch organic nut ‘milk’ producer based in Leeds. On average, a conventional one-litre bottle of nut milk contains less than 3% nuts but Just Mylk uses 25% nuts, including almonds, cashews and walnuts (along with filtered alkaline water, medjool dates, vanilla, lavender, raw cacao, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove and sea salt). Just Mylk currently sells its ‘mylk’ online and at markets around Leeds but 2019 is sure to see it reach a wider audience. Quiche Still a regular sight in town delicatessens and village fetes around the country, quiche is long overdue a comeback, and we think this classic should be revived this year. Whether it’s a traditional bacon-studded quiche lorraine or a cheese version, who doesn’t like a wobbly, pastry-encased flan with a savoury custard filling and a green salad on the side? Check out our quiche Lorraine with green veggies here. Secret restaurants Since chef James Knappett won two Michelin stars for Kitchen Table, his small counter-dining venue accessed via hidden entrance at the back of casual eatery Bubbledogs in Bloomsbury, the secret may be well and truly out there. But, restaurants within restaurants are a trend we expect to see more of in 2019. The latest example is Kebab Queen, a modern 10-seater kebab restaurant and bar hidden downstairs at Maison Bab in Covent Garden. Run by Stephen Tozer and Ed Brunet (founders of Soho’s Le Bab) and Manu Canales (previously sous chef at the two-Michelin-starred Le Gavroche; pictured), Kebab Queen serves a six-course kebab-centric tasting menu in a room clad with velvet and stainless steel, pink concrete floor tiles and cobalt-blue leather stools. CBD Cannabidiol oil (CBD), a legal extract from cannabis, is popping up on cocktail lists around the UK and causing quite a buzz. Plant-based restaurant, by CHLOE., has just run a series of pop-ups in London with a range of CBD cocktails and dishes including a chocolate brownie decorated with a marijuana-shaped fondant leaf. Co-founder Samantha Wasser says: “I am a big believer in the benefits of CBD and the potential of this ever-expanding industry. After seeing the overwhelmingly positive response we received from our Daily Hit Brownie in New York earlier this year, I was inspired to create a full line of CBD-infused items for customers in both the US and UK. We hope to help bring CBD to the mainstream just like we did with plant-based food when we first opened by CHLOE. more than three years ago.” We also spotted (and enjoyed) a CBD-oil-laced Gin & Chronic gin sour at the recently opened Maison Bab in Covent Garden, and a relaxing CBD-infused hot chocolate at London’s Farm Girl chain. And, late last year, Green Times Brewing launched its first craft beer infused with cannabis oil extract, called High Flyer. Brit domination With more than 137 million global subscribers, online streaming platform Netflix is one of the biggest platforms in the world for any chef. The Great British Bake Off is already part of Netflix’s expanding food programme coverage and London-based food writer (and olive Chef Awards nominee) Asma Khan has appeared on its Chef’s Table show. With Clare Smyth representing the UK on new cookery competition The Final Table, perhaps the door is now open for a British chef invasion on the global channel in 2019.
The best farm shops offer prime, locally sourced, seasonal and homemade produce. Here’s our pick of the UK’s finest – well worth making a day trip for
Looking for the best farm shops in the UK? Read our guide to the best local organic farm shops including farm shops Yorkshire and the best farm shops in Sussex. Plus, discover our top five picks for the best farm-to-table restaurants here... Tori and Ben’s, Kings Newton, Derbyshire Due to unprecedented demand for their products, award-winning longhorn beef farmers Tori and Ben Stanley opened a new farm shop with its own state-of-the-art butchery at the end of 2017. In an exciting development, they’ve partnered up with MasterChef: The Professionals finalist Sven-Hanson Britt to create an exciting food experience at the new butchery on Chantry Farm in rural Derbyshire. Set within 10 acres of beautiful grassland, the new site allows Tori and Ben to offer a diverse range of cuts and meats, including homemade charcuterie. In true farm-to-fork style, head butcher Vince talks to customers about the full range of butchered cuts of beef and lamb produced on their farm. Tori says: “We’ve been blown away by the demand for the rare breeds we rear, butcher and sell. We’ve seen how important it is for people to see where their meat comes from, to learn about how it was reared, and how best to cook it.” toriandbensfarm.co.uk Fordhall Farm Shop, Market Drayton, Shropshire Fordhall Farm Shop is based on England’s first community-owned farm in north Shropshire. The land has been farmed organically for more than 65 years and the livestock remain outdoors on organic pasture all year. The shop also prides itself on selling a wide range of organic, local, seasonal and natural foods. There is Fordhall lamb and grass-fed beef, free-range Gloucester Old Spot sausages, carefully sourced local free-range poultry, home-cured bacon and handmade sausages. Farm manager Charlotte Hollins says: “We have a large selection of ales and beers, and homemade pies from our on site bakery, plus a café. Visitors can also take a walk around our farm trails to see the livestock in their natural habitat, so Fordhall offers an opportunity to see organic farming in practice.” fordhallfarm.com Algy’s Farm Shop, Dereham, Norfolk Algy Garrod’s grandfather took on the tenancy of Manor Farm in 1931 and he cultivated blackcurrants, peas and brassicas as well as sugar beet, barley and wheat. The farm was taken on by Algy’s father in 1954, when the family started to sell fruit and vegetables from a small roadside stall. When Algy returned home to Manor Farm in the mid-1980s after completing his agriculture studies, the farm had stopped dairy and beef production and was concentrating on arable crops, including pumpkins and sweetcorn. The family opened a farm shop in 2005, initially to sell bird seeds and Christmas trees but now it sells a huge choice of homegrown vegetables, local products like Bray’s Cottage pork pies and Letheringsett flour from Norfolk’s last remaining watermill. It also sells its own range of Algy’s popcorn made using cold-pressed oil produced from rapeseed grown on the farm. algys.co.uk Discover our guide to Norfolk here... Middle Farm, Lewes, Sussex Despite renting 625 acres of land in the South Downs, it soon became clear to fifth-generation farmer John Pile that the agriculture at Middle Farm would have to be supplemented by another income stream. In 1960, and much to the consternation of fellow farmers, he opened a farm shop, believed to be the first of its type in the UK. Milk from the cows, eggs from the chickens, cakes, chutneys, jams and marmalades from Viv Pile’s farmhouse kitchen were soon joined by meat cut into joints with ad hoc butchery skills gleaned from Reader’s Digest: The Cookery Year. To satisfy increasing demand, John took to his Transit and travelled the country to find the very best British farm produce, including ciders from Somerset and Devon. Half a century on and Middle Farm is now home to the National Collection of Cider and Perry, with more than 100 apple and pear tipples available in the converted barn, alongside wines and beers from local vineyards and breweries. As well as raw milk from the Jersey herd and seasonal fruit and vegetables, the farm shop sells 80 different cheeses, many from Sussex. Now run by John’s daughter Helen and her husband Rod, Middle Farm has stayed true to its roots and welcomes 260,000 visitors every year to tour the farm and watch the cows being milked. Rod says: “With the rise of the supermarkets, plus the environmental issue of food miles and energy conservation, the emphasis is increasingly on producing whatever we can on the farm, whether it’s raw milk and Jersey beef from our prize-winning pedigree herd or unpasteurised apple juice or our own cider.” middlefarm.com Town End Farm Shop, Airton, North Yorkshire “We are very proud of our local sourcing policy,” says Chris Wildman of Town End, a remote rural farm shop set against the stunning backdrop of the Yorkshire Dales. “The majority of our produce and ingredients comes from Yorkshire and with the best provenance we can find.” In recent months, business has been brisk at Town End, thanks in part to the development of the shop’s Widman range of charcuterie and salumi, as well as the selection of Yorkshire gins it stocks. The shop’s success is down the fact it keeps moving with the times. No surprise then that it also runs its own butchery courses. townendfarmshop.co.uk Moody Sow Farm Shop, Cardiff When it launched in 2013 as part of Cefn Mably Farm Park, the Moody Sow only opened at weekends and the scanner at the till didn’t work properly. Five years on and it’s now open seven days a week with eight family members and a team of 30 looking after the shop and farm park. “In the early days, the product range was mostly bought in,” says shop manager Anthony Tilbury. “We had to learn how to make the sausages and cure our own bacon, we now make all our own pies, burgers, sausage rolls, pasties and our award-winning scotch eggs.” Moody Sow uses pork raised on site, and has taken on another 100 acres to allow it to start its own herd of beef sucklers. moodysow.com Darts Farm, Topsham, Devon What started 40 years ago as a modest little farm shop is still run by the same family but these days Darts Farm is part of a thriving mini food village with a butcher, fishmonger, bakery, deli, cider maker and restaurant. Tucked away in the picturesque estuary town of Topsham, close to Exeter, the food hall is filled with hundreds of local and artisan suppliers, and it’s one of the best places in the region to buy West Country cheeses. Owned and run by three brothers, Darts Farm is proudly still a working farm, headed up by eldest brother Paul. With Red Ruby Devon cattle grazing in the fields, Paul and his team harvest a wonderful selection of fresh fruit and vegetables daily, which are sold in the food hall and used by the restaurant. dartsfarm.co.uk Read our foodie guide to Devon here... Gloucester Services M5, Gloucestershire Sibling to Tebay Services in Cumbria, which opened in 1972, Gloucester Services was launched by the same family in 2014 and it couldn’t be further from the image of motorway services being tired places serving dreary food. Instead of fast-food outlets on the forecourt, there’s a well-stocked farm shop selling locally produced food, a butchery featuring meat reared from regional farms and a kitchen serving homemade dishes produced daily using local ingredients, plus a fish counter stocking sustainably sourced fish caught in UK waters. Gloucester Services works with 130 local suppliers within 30 miles of the shop and a further 70 from the region. And for the onward journey, who could resist one of the exemplary sausage rolls, local lardy cakes or a slice of Jonathan Crump’s double Gloucester cheese. gloucesterservices.com Trevaskis Farm, Hayle, Cornwall “Our aim is to create a farm-fresh experience for our customers,” says Paul Rose, retail manager at Trevaskis Farm shop. “With fruit and vegetables arriving straight from our fields, we try to honour our ‘food yards’ motto, and support local growers and businesses where possible.” Surrounded by 28 acres of Cornish countryside, this 30-year-old business incorporates a farm park, restaurant and shop. As well as meat reared on site – the farm is well known for its home-reared British Lop pork and south Devon breed beef – it also has a fishmonger selling fish landed just nine miles away in Newlyn. Paul says: “We sell whole fish and fillets but the range varies depending on what’s been caught that morning.” trevaskisfarm.co.uk Check out more of the best places to eat and drink in Cornwall here... Jolly Nice, Frampton Mansell, Gloucestershire As third-generation dairy farmers, the Wilson family wanted to find a more sustainable way to work with the land, livestock and local community. More than a decade ago, Rebecca Wilson’s vision was to run a farm shop that exceeded people’s expectations, while supporting sustainable farming and “bringing local food to local people at affordable prices”. Occupying a former petrol station and a collection of yurts, the Jolly Nice Farm Shop and Café opened in 2013 and has gone on to win numerous awards. The family’s Shorthorn cows graze the herb-rich pasture on the farm and supply the Jolly Nice butchery and kitchens with grass-fed beef. Rare-breed pigs such as Tamworth, Gloucester Old Spot and Berkshire are reared by Rebecca’s husband, Simon. Rebecca says: “Almost everything in our butchery is traditional or rare-breed meat straight from our own farm in Westonbirt or from our local farming friends. We can tell you which farm each cut of meat has come from, what breed it is, how it was reared and who the farmer is.” The family also sells organic vegetables grown and harvested daily at Prince Charles’s Duchy Home Farm in nearby Tetbury. And that’s not all – the Wilsons’ eldest daughter, Harriet, also has her own brand of (incredibly delicious) Jolly Nice ice cream, which is sold in the shop. jollynicefarmshop.com Welbeck Farm Shop worksop, Nottinghamshire The award-winning Welbeck Farm Shop is found at the heart of a vibrant food community that includes the School of Artisan Food. Much of the shop’s impressive range is sourced from or prepared at the Welbeck estate, including rare-breed livestock which graze the estate’s historic pastures (pictured below). The estate’s own raw milk is also on offer, delivered fresh every morning. It’s the same milk used in the acclaimed Stichelton blue cheese, which is made by Joe Schneider just down the road. There’s a cheese counter at the shop, as well as a brewery, bakehouse and even a resident chocolatier. welbeck.co.uk Click here and find more of the best restaurants in Nottingham... Blair Drummond Smiddy Farm Shop, Blair Drummond Stirlingshire “Keep it fresh, local and simple” – that’s the ethos of Blair Drummond Smiddy Farm Shop, a 10-minute drive from Stirling. Close to a safari park, this compact farm shop opened at the end of 2016 and has quickly become a hub for the local community. Championing Scottish produce (it makes its own haggis), it has a butchery specialising in locally sourced meats, a delicatessen and café serving food made on site. “Where we can, we get local produce,” says manager Linda. “Our award-winning butchery shop gets all its meat from within a five-mile radius, and the chickens come from 15 miles away. The eggs come from a farm only three miles away and we get our potatoes throughout the autumn and winter months from a farm that is just a mile away.” blairdrummondsmiddy.co.uk Daylesford Kingham, Oxfordshire Still Britain’s best known, and most upmarket, farm shop thanks to its celebrity clientele, Daylesford is a destination in its own right. The prices may be a touch higher than your average muddy farm shop but it’s all about the provenance and attention to detail here. Daylesford is one of the most sustainable farms in the UK and has its own abattoir, so there’s complete traceability. And then there’s the award-winning cheese (head cheesemaker Peter Kindel, pictured below), which you can discover in the dedicated cheese room, including a delicate, buttery single gloucester cheese that has PDO (Protected Designated Origin) status and is made from the milk of native Gloucester cattle. What started as an organic farm shop has grown into a place people spend the day – or even the weekend – thanks to the launch of a cookery school, floristry workshop and spa, not to mention The Wild Rabbit gastropub-with-rooms up the road and the converted farm buildings that now offer luxury accommodation. daylesford.com Here are our favourite places to eat and drink nearby in the Cotswolds
Rising stars: the UK's best bakeries and bakers
Across the UK, talented bakers are combining traditional methods with innovative techniques to create next-level breads and pastries. Read our guide to some of the best bakers and bakeries in the UK
Looking for the best bakeries in the UK? Check out our expert guide to the best local bakeries and bread bakers in the country. From the best bakeries in London to some of the best in Bristol, Manchester and Nottingham. Farro Bakery, Bristol A long-time regular at local food markets, Farro opened its first retail location just over a year ago. “Market trading is no joke,” says owner and baker Bradley Tapp. “Early starts and essentially setting up a whole shop for a few hours? I’ve got big respect for all the market traders out there.” One of the most welcome differences since moving the operation to a retail bakery, says Bradley, is that you’re not subject to the weather. “Nothing worse for croissants than a warm, drizzly day. They lose all their flakiness.” During lockdown, Farro rethought its approach and changed the kind of baked goods it produced. Croissants, for example, sold unbaked and frozen. That way, customers could bake them at home themselves, filling their kitchens with the smells of an artisan bakery. farro.co.uk Loaf, Birmingham South Birmingham’s Loaf bakery is a social enterprise – a bakery that aims to build community through food. Loaf launched in 2009 and, at first, everything was baked in founder Tom Baker’s kitchen. The bakery adopted a subscription model (for a monthly fee, subscribers could regularly collect Tom’s loaves from his doorstep) to fund a move to a production site, and now Loaf is a cooperative of nine people, all of whom are directors of the company. The bakery also focusses on teaching forgotten food skills through cooking classes, with any profit the business makes funnelled back into Loaf’s social objectives. loafonline.co.uk Baltic Bakehouse, Liverpool Siblings Sam and Grace Henley founded Baltic Bakehouse to provide the city with “real bread”, handmade and slowly risen, as other bakeries in the city steadily succumbed to the dominance of supermarkets. “The bread is central to everything we do, so we use it to make sandwiches, serve with soup or turn into french toast,” says Sam. You can also buy sweet bakes (“all yeast-risen goods, to complement our bread”) including danish pastries, cruffins and doughnuts. The bakery now has two sites, the original named after its location in Liverpool’s Baltic Triangle area, and the second in Allerton. balticbakehouse.co.uk Margot Bakery, London, N2 Michelle Eshkeri set up her bakery with no formal bread experience – just a passion for baking. “I’ve made many mistakes along the way but the satisfaction that comes from working on the products every day and baking for people never fades.” Housed in a former post office, the bakery makes breads, cakes and pastries, many of them traditionally Jewish (think sesame-encrusted simit). Unusually, it also sells sweet breads made using sourdough, including babka. Michelle says: “The past few months have been a reminder of the fundamental role a bakery can play in a community... to be genuinely useful and to feed people has been a gift for us, as much as for our customers.” margotbakery.co.uk Nova Bakehouse, Leeds Sarah Lemanski, best baker winner at the 2018 olive Chef Awards and 2014 Young British Foodie Awards, is the founder of Noisette Bakehouse, which has now morphed into the Nova Bakehouse. Sarah is one of the most innovative bakers in the UK – expect delights such as twice-baked rhubarb and custard croissants, and chocolate cake made with einkorn flour (an ancient variety of wheat). “Flour has been reduced to a commodity ingredient with very little traceability, yet we use it in such volume,” says Sarah. “The different flavours, textures and applications that grains offer are a total joy – it’s like the baking equivalent of surround sound and high definition.” novabakehouse.com Grain & Hearth, Whitstable Adam Pagor, the self-taught head baker at Grain & Hearth, used to run a wholesale bakery business from his kitchen in London. But after having children, Adam and his wife Carmen relocated to Whitstable to open their bakery. “We fell in love with the area and saw a clear gap in the market,” says Adam. The bakery specialises in handmade, slowly fermented sourdough breads and viennoiserie, with a particular focus on zero waste. Grain & Hearth has also become a hub for classes, where eager home bakers can learn how to perfect anything from sourdough to pizza and croissants. grainandhearth.co.uk Miel Bakery, London W1 When we think of bakeries, we often imagine big spaces filled with industrial ovens that pump out hundreds of loaves a day. But in the case of Fitzrovia’s Miel bakery, smaller is definitely better. Set up by Shaheen Peerbhai, a classically trained chef who honed her skills in Mumbai, Paris and London before setting up the bakery in 2019, Miel is definitely petite. A French-inspired boulangerie and pâtisserie, it serves takes on classic French pastries, including an amazing hazelnut gianduja croissant. “Miel is my dream bakery, inspired from my time living, studying and working in Paris,” says Shaheen. “The focus is on small-batch baking, so it’s baked fresh right in front of you... when something’s gone for the day, it’s gone.” Unusually, Miel doesn’t have a night baker, so when you visit you’ll see treats coming out of the oven all day. mielbakery.co.uk Aries Bakehouse, London SW2 In the heart of Brixton sits the delightful Aries Bakehouse. Run by Jackie Mckinson, it’s the very definition of a community-based business. During lockdown, Aries Bakehouse switched to a pre-order bakery but its customers still rocked up and offered to help. Some delivered bread and coffee to those in isolation, while others assisted in the kitchen when the workload became immense. “Honestly, this doesn’t even feel like my bakery any more,” says Jackie. “It feels like a collective, with everyone taking part.” aries-bakehouse.square.site ARAN Bakery, Dunkeld, Perthshire Flora Shedden, a baker who originally shot to fame as a semi-finalist on The Great British Bake Off, opened her first bakery, ARAN, in 2017. Housed in a 200-year-old building – which in past lives has been a lemonade factory and a dentist – the site was derelict when Flora took the space on. It’s since been transformed into a bustling bakery. “I wanted to create a wee hub that could feed and fuel friends, old and new,” says Flora. “Bread seemed to be the most natural choice for me.” Flour comes from Aberfeldy Mill nearby and the eggs from a farm just down the road. During lockdown, ARAN left jars of sourdough starter on the doorstep for customers to help themselves to. aran-bakery.com Bafarat, London W1 This pâtisserie in the heart of Soho has its origins in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia – the company was originally created by a local coffee, herb and spice company of the same name. Set up in 1952, it more recently moved into the café business, and Bafarat London marks its first international outpost. For the bakery side of the business, Bafarat partnered with French pastry chef Thomas Alphonsine to create a range of pâtisserie. Thomas highlights simplicity and high-quality ingredients – a tart that uses coffee in multiple elements, a picture-perfect vanilla mille-feuille, or the most elegant of lemon tarts. “My desire is to create a feeling, an experience, leaving you with a wonderful memory,” says Thomas. @bafarat.london Bostcok Bakery, North Berwick Bostock bakery is the brainchild of husband-and-wife team, Ross and Lindsay Baxter (Ross is a trained baker and Lindsay’s background is in textile design and fashion). The bakery initially started as a bread stall but quickly moved indoors to a high street location in North Berwick – Ross and Lindsay have since opened a second location in East Linton. The bakery specialises in bread and pastries but also has a regular pop-up sourdough pizza night. “At Bostock we’re all about providing the best products we can,” says Lindsay. “Craftsmanship is at the core of what we do and we strive for consistency every day.” bostockbakery.co.uk The Dusty Knuckle, London E8 The Dusty Knuckle is a social enterprise café and bakery with a conscience, according to co-founder Max Tobias. “The idea was that we would start a bakery that could provide employment experiences to young people at the margins of society.” Max and chef Rebecca Oliver quit their jobs and launched The Dusty Knuckle from a shipping container in 2014. After three successful years it moved a few metres to a new permanent home opposite. It also runs regular bread-making classes and has ambitious plans to run a youth training academy in the future. thedustyknuckle.com Hart’s Bakery, Bristol “I’m not sure how customers perceive us but I hope it is that we are doing simple things well, with an emphasis on the people and baking rather than a fancy set-up,” says Laura Hart (pictured), owner of Hart’s Bakery. Tucked away beneath Bristol Temple Meads station in what had previously been a bondage dungeon, Hart’s recently celebrated its fifth birthday, during which time it has become one of Bristol’s foodie hot spots (see our foodie guide to Bristol here), with regulars queuing out of the door for sourdough loaves, seasonal fruit Danish pastries, cinnamon buns and custard tarts (check out our step-by-step guide to Portuguese custard tarts here). At lunchtime, the emphasis is on good-value dishes to take away or eat at one of the communal tables – perhaps a bowl of butternut squash, burnt miso and coconut soup with jasmine rice, coriander and sourdough. “We try to keep up with ideas in the industry without jumping on every bandwagon,” says Laura. “We prioritise our service as highly as our products and work hard to foster relationships with our customers, suppliers and the wider community.” Thinking of visiting Bristol? Check out our guide to the best places to eat, drink and stay in Bristol. hartsbakery.co.uk Forge Bakehouse, Sheffield Martha Brown started The Forge Bakehouse in 2012 following a year studying at Nottinghamshire’s School of Artisan Food. The Forge Bakehouse micro-bakery has become a community hub – in the past five years, her tiny shop has grown into larger premises where she now serves food alongside a large range of sourdough, long-fermented bread and pastries. “Nearly all our bread is sourdough, we use a mixture of local flour as well as Shipton Mill, and on a Saturday have a range of over 20 flavours. I love the fact we’ve become an important part of our community, as well as the wider Sheffield food scene. Our customers support us so much, they try everything new and are always enthusiastic about our progress.” forgebakehouse.co.uk The Almond Thief, Devon Dan Mifsud made his first slow-fermented sourdough at home when he was looking after his newborn son – he found baking so satisfying that he decided to switch careers. An evolutionary biologist, who also tried his hand as an ice-cream maker in Bristol before moving to Devon, Dan started as a pop-up baker, working at Riverford before opening his own sourdough bakery and café, The Almond Thief, at Dartington near Totnes three years ago. (Here's where to eat and drink in Totnes and, if you're visiting Devon, check out our foodie guide to the best restaurants and bars.) “People get very emotional about good bread and we have become a hub for people in the village, which is a lovely relationship to have.” thealmondthief.com Doughies, Scottish Highlands What started out for Adam Veitch and his wife, Abigail, as a baking experiment in their Bournemouth flat has, after a move to the Scottish Highlands, become Doughies, a micro-bakery in Fort William. By day a part-time hydropower engineer, Adam spends the rest of the week baking slowly fermented sourdoughs on a co-owned working croft in Muirshearlich. He sells his bread via a local deli, food network and veg box scheme. His latest creation is the Lochaber Rye Loaf – a black, tinned loaf made with Lochaber-grown rye flour, salt harvested from seawater at Skye and water gathered from the River Spean. Such is his commitment to keeping ingredients local that he even plans to grow his own rye grain soon. doughies.wordpress.com Bread Source, Norfolk Bread Source is a contemporary bakery specialising in artisan, additive-free bread and pastries using locally grown, heritage-variety flour ground in its own Austrian stone mill. “We mill locally grown wheat and barley to make our breads as flavoursome, fresh and nutritious as possible,” says baker Isabel Brentnall, who can even name the farmers who grow the wheat and barley. Using traditional methods, natural yeast and long fermentations, each loaf is made daily by hand. The range of loaves include a proper old-fashioned British tin through to Danish rye and spelt – although Bread Source’s Swedish cinnamon buns (here's where to get the best in Britain) are the bestsellers in the bakery’s shop in Aylsham and some of Norwich’s best cafés and delis. (Check out our weekend guide to North Norfolk.) bread-source.com Baker & Graze, Cheltenham “At the heart of our bakery is our sourdough bread and sourdough croissants,” says Ryan Bennett, who runs this bakery café with Adam Hall. “We have adopted an innovative approach to using classic French techniques and modern Middle Eastern flavours but using small local producers, right down to 100% stoneground flour from a 13th century Cotswold water mill six miles away.” As well as fantastic bread (including gluten-free), Baker & Graze makes exceptional doughnuts and Portuguese custard tarts. “We hand-laminate the pastry daily for the cinnamon rolls and pain au chocolat,” says Adam, “as well as the puff pastry for sausage rolls.” If you're visiting Cheltenham or the Cotswolds, read our guide to some of the best places to eat, drink and sleep. bakerandgraze.com Flint Owl Bakery, East Sussex An organic bakery with its own café in Lewes, Flint Owl’s leavened breads are made using a starter that is 45 years old and originates from the French Alps. Owner David Bland says: “We are one of the very few bakeries that only use organic flours in all breads and pastries. The majority of these flours are stoneground and we blend various wheat, rye and spelt flours to create our own unique loaves. We don’t want pesticide residue in our bread as is the case with most bread – even craft bread.” The only other ingredients used at Flint Owl are water from the Glynde spring (the well is in the bakery building) and sea salt. “No improvers or anything else get near our doughs. Virtually all our breads are sourdoughs, mixed off a live culture fed daily. The breads get at least 22 hours of fermentation before being baked on the sole of the oven.” David was recently joined by the acclaimed baker Aidan Chapman, who is now head baker after a spell teaching at River Cottage in Dorset and Bread Ahead in Borough Market. Thinking of visiting East Sussex? Here's our guide to the best places to eat and drink in Hastings, East Sussex. flintowlbakery.com Brød, Cardiff Known locally as “the Danish bakery”, Brød is run by Betina Skovbro, whose grandfather was a baker in Copenhagen (Read where the best restaurants and bars in Copenhagen are here). Producing a range of freshly baked Danish breads, rye and spelt loaves, pastries and cakes, Brød has certainly brought a taste of Scandinavia (Check out the best Scandinavian food trips here) to Cardiff. “We use traditional Danish methods of hand-crafting all our own breads, pastries and cakes each morning in our own bake house,” says Betina. “We seek to combine two simple ingredients – baking and hygge.” (Check out our guide to some of the best Welsh foodie weekend trips.) thedanishbakery.co.uk The Bakehouse, Nottingham Launched at the end of 2016 by chef Craig Poynter and his wife Rosea, The Bakehouse in Sherwood has already scooped a series of accolades, including a gold at the World Bread Awards for its garlic and herb sourdough. “We have great partnerships with local artisans,” says Craig, “including award-winning butcher JT Beedham & Sons, who have created a recipe for our sausage rolls.” The Bakehouse now offers supper clubs, all-day weekend brunches and Sunday roasts. It also supports local charities through donations of any unsold bread at the end of the day. Read our guide to the best places to eat and drink in Nottingham. facebook.com/thebakehousenotts Pollen, Manchester Before they opened Pollen, Chris Kelly (pictured) and Hannah Calvert worked in banking. Hannah started making bread at home and soon caught the bug. “Chris and I wanted to do something that we could put all our energy and passion into, so we decided to open the bakery,” she says. A self-styled sourdough and Viennoiserie bakery based in an arch under Piccadilly Station, Pollen opened in September 2016, selling specialities like oat porridge bread and cruffins (croissant dough rolled up and baked in muffin tins, then filled with a flavoured pastry cream or curd). “We use solely organic flours and we work with local millers using their Yorkshire stoneground flour in all our breads,” says Hannah. “These beautiful flours are not only better for you but give the bread a distinctive sweet, earthy flavour.” Check out our weekend break guide for the best restaurants and bars in Manchester. pollenbakery.com Photographs by: Edd Cope, Ed Reeve, David Bullivant, Emilie Whelan, Rachel Hoile, Adam Veitch, Tom Russell, India Hobson
Stepping up to the plate: chefs to watch in 2018
Want to know which chefs will be making headlines in 2018? Read our exert guide to the the UK's most influential chefs who will shaping the UK's buzzing restaurant scene this year
Read our guide to the UK's best chefs to look out for in 2018... Damien Wager Essex-born Damien Wager has spent much of the past decade working in the kitchens of Cornish restaurants and hotels, but it is since joining the 2 AA Rosette Beechfield House Hotel in Wiltshire as executive pastry chef that his stunning desserts, such as his take on a Black Forest gateau, featuring a cherry mousse with kirsch liquid centre, chocolate sable, compressed cherries and chocolate ganache, have gained wider attention. Still only 27, Damien says his long-term ambition is to launch his own patisserie business back in his adopted home of Cornwall. beechfieldhouse.co.uk Joe Simmonds Roasted turbot on the bone with poached potatoes, smoked mussel fritters, samphire, charred cucumber, crispy capers, warm cucumber and herb emulsion is one reason why Bath Priory-trained chef Joe Simmonds is drawing a crowd at The Beach at Bude. Another is that he was recently awarded two AA Rosettes – the first time the boutique hotel has won anything – putting Bude officially on the map. thebeachatbude.co.uk Tomos Parry Since he left Kitty Fisher’s in Mayfair, former YBF Young Chef of the Year Tomos Parry has spent his time doing residencies, most of them based around cooking over fire. The big news is that he is opening his own east London restaurant in 2018. He says: “It will be counter dining with grills in the middle, very much inspired by Japanese yakitori restaurants. As a Welshman, I am passionate about using Welsh produce and I’m working with farmers and fishermen to improve the supply chain to London.” @tomos_pp Tom Brown After stints at Raymond Blanc’s Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and Tom Kerridge’s Hand & Flowers, Tom Brown spent five years working for Nathan Outlaw, first in Cornwall and then as head chef of Outlaw’s at The Capital in London. And now he has flown the nest to open his own restaurant, Cornerstone in Hackney Wick, which is due to open in spring 2018. Serving the “clean and simple” dishes he has become known for, it’s sure to be one of London’s hottest new openings. Check out his Instagram feed if you need any more persuading. @cheftombrown Leandro Carreira Located just off Bermondsey Street in Southwark, Londrino is one of the launches of the year. The Portuguese chef behind it, Leandro Carreira, cut his culinary teeth at Mugaritz in Spain, then moved to London to work with Nuno Mendes. Leandro says the menu will make use of Portuguese ingredients as seen through the eyes of a chef who calls London home. “There is a nod to Portugal, but I don’t want the creative process to end there.” londrino.co.uk Jerry Adam Jerry Adam took over the kitchen of Penally Abbey Hotel near Tenby during the summer of 2017 after working at Michelin-starred Welsh foodie destinations Llangoed Hall and Ynyshir. Using produce from the stunning Pembrokeshire coast, Jerry ferments, pickles and preserves a lot of his ingredients. “I’ve done a lot of research about food and I try to make sure every dish I send out is made up of 50% raw ingredients,” he says. “I haven’t put a name to my style of food as such but I use a lot of natural ingredients like soy, tofu and miso. I try to forage as much as I can, such as seaweed, sea vegetables, and berries, herbs and vegetables from the gardens here at Penally.” penally-abbey.com Roy Brett As you might expect from a chef who worked closely with Rick Stein back in the day, Roy Brett knows his seafood, as his acclaimed Edinburgh restaurant Ondine has proved. In spring 2018, Roy will be teaming up with a local fishmongers to open a smart new fish and chip restaurant at Newhaven fish market near Leith, complete with an extensive shellfish menu and oyster bar. ondinerestaurant.co.uk Dan Cox After cooking at the highest level for Simon Rogan at L’Enclume in Cumbria and Fera at Claridge’s, Dan Cox decamped to a 120-acre organic farm in Cornwall, where he now plans to launch a restaurant within the courtyard buildings. Crocadon Farm at St Mellion will supply the produce and livestock for the restaurant, which is due to open in 2018 and will also have its own microbrewery and pottery for local ceramicists. Dan says: “We want the food and the farm to grow together as one, becoming something unique and harmonious – an interaction and food experience that can only be possible when the restaurant is at the heart of the farm.” crocadon.co.uk Nick Grieves Durham-born Nick Grieves worked in the construction business before teaching himself to cook. After working at The River Café in London he returned to the north-east to open The Patricia in Jesmond in December 2016. Nick says: “I believe restaurants should be about fun, so we don’t get too technical – we cook good ingredients and let the seasons tell us what goes together.” the-patricia.com Ellen Parr After years of running successful pop-ups, co-founder of The Art of Dining Ellen Parr could be set to do something a little more stationary. “I’m yearning for a permanent space as I feel it will give me so much more time to develop even more exciting dishes,” reveals Ellen. She started her career at Moro, but doesn’t rule out a return to Bristol, where she grew up. “Bristol is a great city for food and really exciting at the moment, but I’m also trying to take Moro to New York to do a pop-up there.” theartofdining.co.uk Sara Lewis Sara Lewis made her name at the Grain Store in King’s Cross, where legendary chef Bruno Loubet identified her as a rising star. She is now head chef at The Pilgrm, where she will oversee the food at the Paddington hotel’s Lounge restaurant. Sara says she is inspired by Loubet’s attitude to sustainability and his willingness to embrace wild, inventive ideas in the kitchen. thepilgrm.com Michael Carr Restaurant 92 in Harrogate is fast becoming one of the go-to restaurants in Yorkshire thanks to the innovative seasonal dishes of 25-year-old head chef and co-owner Michael Carr. Whether it’s roasted spiced quail, watermelon, foie gras, balsamic and dukkah, or beef wellington, pomme purée and garlic kale, Michael’s return to his Yorkshire roots after a spell in London (working for Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s and Alyn Williams at The Westbury, no less) has been embraced by Harrogate foodies. restaurant92.co.uk Jake and Cassie White After collectively working in London for Marcus Wareing, Tom Aikens and Hélène Darroze, husband and wife team Jake and Cassie White are shaking up Cumbria’s dining scene at Pentonbridge Inn, a restaurant-with-rooms in the tiny hamlet of Penton, near Carlisle. Local produce drives the menu, including fruit, vegetables and herbs from the walled garden and greenhouses at nearby Netherby Hall, which Jake and Cassie have been cultivating, alongside the head gardener. pentonbridgeinn.co.uk Luke French Housed inside four upcycled shipping containers, Sheffield restaurant Jöro specialises in what head chef and co-owner Luke French calls “new Nordic” cuisine inspired by the Scandi approach to locality, care of ingredients and a simplicity of cooking, but with a nod to Japanese cooking techniques. “In a nutshell, we call it a ‘Scandi-Jap mash-up’,” says Luke, whose signature dishes include asparagus, pickled spruce and blackcurrant leaves, and brown butter ice cream, aerated white chocolate and miso. And it’s not just lucky Sheffield locals who appreciate Luke’s food – Jöro entered the Good Food Guide after only a few months of business late last year, its inspectors praising the “no-holds-barred seasonal cooking”. jororestaurant.co.uk Bonny Porter At the age of 23, Bonny Porter was the youngest ever finalist on MasterChef: The Professionals back in 2012, and since then she has gone on to launch Soho’s meatball restaurant Balls & Company. The Australian chef has plans aplenty for 2018, with a new restaurant planned for the first half of the year and the return of her International Women’s Day celebration, which last year saw London’s best female chefs come together to mark their female culinary inspirations. She says: “I’m looking forward to bringing something different to the capital with my second restaurant – it will still be Balls & Company, but there will be a bigger focus on our bar concept.” ballsandcompany.london
Our predictions of the food trends for 2018, including restaurant trends and drinks trends
Looking for food trends 2018? When a new food trend gains traction, it can influence our eating habits for months or even years to come. Here are the ones we reckon are destined to take off in 2018. You heard it here first... MODERN AFRICAN The flavours of Africa have increasingly become part of the British food dialogue this past year, thanks in no small part to books from food blogger Lopè Ariyo and restaurateur Zoe Adjonyoh, who brought the foods of Nigeria and Ghana to the masses. Now there are plenty of restaurants to try it at in London, too. Grab oga burritos – served at Nigerian takeaway I Go Chop in Camberwell – filled with jollof rice, beans and meat. Ikoyi in London’s St James’s Market serves upmarket jollof rice with smoked bone marrow, and buttermilk plantain with smoked scotch bonnet chillies. New York export Red Rooster, in London’s Shoreditch, uses fiery Ethiopian spice blend berbere in its fried chicken recipe. Or, if you’re after some of the best-tasting wings in the capital, head to Eritrean specialist Lemlem Kitchen in Netil Market, east London – the guys here smother their wings in a berbere, ginger and garlic rub. FOOD-WASTE MENUS After Anthony Bourdain’s documentary Wasted! The Story of Food Waste and Dan Barber’s WastED pop-up in New York and London, will we see even more environmentally aware chefs reducing food waste and using surplus ingredients? It’s already happening in hip eco-restaurants like Poco in Bristol and Silo in Brighton (broccoli with seaweed dashi pictured), both of which are striving for zero waste, and let’s hope more follow. YORKSHIRE BURRITO Yorkshireman Henry Preen has sparked a wave of Yorkshire pudding wraps across the country. Since 2016, Yorkshire Burrito has been dishing out comforting Yorkies with slow-cooked meats, veggies and plenty of gravy from a stand at Street Food Union in Soho. The rest of the country is cottoning on, and this latest street-food phenomenon has popped up at Bournemouth’s Syron Café and The York Roast Co in Yorkshire. Here's our expert Yorkshire pudding recipe to get the best results every time. VEGAN: THE NEXT GENERATION Vegan food has finally gone mainstream, and this new wave is ushering in no-compromise, great-tasting, meat-free junk food. What the Pitta (Croydon, Shoreditch and Camden) is serving vegan doner kebabs with soya alternatives; Hackney’s Temple of Seitan has queues out the door for its hot ‘wings’ and spicy burgers; and Brighton’s Terre a Terre has its own KFC – Korean fried cauliflower. And, if you’re after the ultimate vegan burger, look out for the newly crowdfunded Vurger Co on the street-food/festival scene. The vegan movement also has a hip new ambassador in Cardiff blogger and YouTube star Gaz Oakley (@avantgardevegan) whose Vegan 100 book is published early this year. It can only be a matter of time before the supermarket ready-meal departments latch on to this trend of vegan fast food, but meat-substitute, plant proteins like seitan and tempeh are widely available from health stores and online, so you can recreate them at home, too. Try our best vegan recipes ready in under 30 minutes here or all of our vegan recipes here. FIG LEAVES As well as being used to wrap and steam seafood, fig leaves are increasingly being used as an ingredient in their own right. We spotted them in late summer (when the trees begin producing fruit) in the likes of fig-leaf ice cream at Salon in Brixton and Michelin-starred Lyle’s in Shoreditch, and fig-leaf panna cotta with fig, honeycomb and honey and orange gel at The Castle Inn in Castle Combe, Wiltshire. ARTISAN ENGLISH PUDDINGS Trad puds are back! Norfolk-based pudd’Eng has launched a range of steamed puds – syrup, spotted dick, sticky toffee, chocolate and ale, treacle and walnut or marmalade – using organic Norfolk flour and dried fruit. Get your chops around Georgie Porgie’s Puddings in Devon, or The Old Fashioned Pudding Company in Peterborough for more rib-sticking English classics. We're also big fans of The Pudding Stop in St Albans, read our review here. JELLYFISH Sustainable and known for its delicate, slightly salty flavour, jellyfish has long been a favourite of the Chinese and Japanese, who often eat it raw or sliced up as a salad ingredient – but is it about to catch on in the UK? At a recent Slow Food conference in Genoa, chefs were serving fried jellyfish, and now Michelin-starred chef and restaurateur Josh Eggleton (of The Pony & Trap, Salt & Malt, Eat Drink Bristol Fashion and Root) says he is planning to cook them in 2018, as soon as he can find a decent supply from British waters. GOURMET BREAD AND BUTTER Long gone are the days when you were presented with a white roll and a knob of mass-produced, fridge-cold butter to kick off your meal. Chefs have been getting more and more creative with their bread and butter, making it a course of its own on many tasting menus. You’ll want two portions of the seaweed bread at Perilla in Stoke Newington, London, brushed with lamb fat and served with butter whipped with more lamb fat. At Scandi-influenced Norse in Harrogate, whipped butter is topped with crispy toasted grains, while the homemade bread at Bastible in Dublin mops up super smooth and tangy cultured butter. JACKFRUIT A basis of Southeast Asian curries for centuries, jackfruit has already been hailed as pulled pork for vegetarians thanks to its meaty texture. The UK has gone jackfruit crazy, from Glasgow street-food operation Chompsky’s Korean BBQ jackfruit, and the pulled jackfruit burgers of Holy Cow in Edinburgh, to Biff’s Jack Shack in London, which slow cooks it in sweet BBQ sauce, puts it in burger buns (pictured) or shapes into chicken wings and fries them. Trading at markets across the capital, including a weekly slot at Broadway Vegan Market, Biff’s is run by Christa Bloom and Biff Burrows. “I was sick of only having boring vegan bean burgers when I ate out. I felt jackfruit’s fibrous, tender texture made it an incredible meat alternative,” says Biff. “When we had the idea to create a crispy fried jackfruit wing on a sugarcane bone, we knew we were on to a winner.” If you fancy using them at home, you can buy fresh jackfruit in Asian supermarkets, or tinned in brine or water. COCO BEANS Not to be confused with cocoa beans, these little legumes are set to become big on menus in 2018. Best eaten fresh during their season between July and October, these creamy white beans are a variety of the humble haricot and work brilliantly with meat or fish. Newcastle restaurant The Patricia serves a notable dish of coco de paimpol beans with roasted mutton loin, peppers and salsa verde, while Bristol’s Wellbourne teams them with turbot and girolles. MEALS ON WHEELS Once a staple of 1960s restaurants, and then the preserve of posh hotels, the restaurant trolley is officially back. Our advice? Avoid the gimmicky new kids on the block and stick to the old school. Marvel at the tried-and-tested practitioners of the art at refurbished Simpson’s in the Strand, which still serves its daily beef and lamb dishes from carving trollies. Head to the two-Michelin-star Bibendum in Kensington for ice cream on wheels; try HIX Soho’s spectacular seafood trolley, where the team will fillet the catch of the day right alongside your table, or get stuck into Fitzrovia’s famous Berners Tavern pork pie trolley. PINK CHOCOLATE Swiss chocolatier Barry Callebaut has created what is being hailed as the fourth natural type of chocolate after dark, milk and white. Made from the ruby cocoa bean, complete with a natural pink hue, these chocolates are only available to chefs and patissiers at the moment, so keep an eye out for it on dessert menus this year. BACK TO BEIGE Now we’ve finally seen the back of all that clean eating nonsense, it seems we’re craving carbs. Waitrose revealed its shoppers ate more mac’n’cheese, bulgar wheat and quinoa during 2017. And we can’t get enough of Stevie Parle’s potato and gravy ravioli at new pasta bar Pastaio, too. COFFEE FLOUR Formerly a waste product from the roasting process, coffee flour is made from dried and ground coffee cherries. Gluten-free, it can be used in all sorts of baking, from breads and muffins to sauces and savoury dishes. Look out for the CRU Kafe brand of this trending new product. BOOZY BAKES After Heston Blumenthal resurrected the Victorian-era tipsy cake at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, and Primrose Bakery started to sell its cocktail cakes (anyone for a moscow mule cupcake?), the trend for ‘boozy baking’ went to another level when Cheshire’s Roberts Bakery launched its gin and tonic cocktail teacakes. Boozy bakes have certainly become a thing and we expect to see more in 2018. Check out our boozy cakes and bakes recipe collection, including our epic mojito cake. CACTUS Mexican food has been having its ‘moment’ for a few years now, but in 2017 we saw the rise of regional Mexican cuisine and, as a consequence, we also saw more of cactus. When cooked, prickly pear cactus pads have the texture and taste of peppers, with a hint of green bean. In London we’ve tried them in a salad at Ella Canta, and in tacos at Santo Remedio. At Bristol’s Cargo Cantina, chef Imogen Waite serves avocado and cactus tacos. “We saw beautiful, fresh cactus being prepared in the markets in Mexico. It has a unique texture, which is both crunchy and very moist.” Imogen sources her cactus strips from coolchile.co.uk and, if you fancy giving it a go, jars of whole leaves can be bought from mexgrocer.co.uk. RETIRED DAIRY BEEF Award-winning ‘old cow’ meat from ex-dairy cattle, produced by farmers in Spain and Italy, has resulted in increased demand for something a little more homegrown. Organic Coombe Farm in Somerset now sells online a range of cuts with extraordinary marbling and depth of flavour from retired dairy cows, as does butcher Gerard King of Salter & King in Aldeburgh, Suffolk, who is now taking orders for his next Suffolk old cow, which will be ready in May. PASTIES The humble Cornish pasty is enjoying a renaissance right now, with new flavours that go far beyond the traditional meat and veg once enjoyed by tin miners. Early 2018 sees the launch of Paul Whyte’s Manchester-based Str-eats with street-food-inspired pasties such as Brazilian BBQ beef with chilli lime salsa, and Vietnamese chicken. More traditional are the pasties made by Cornwall’s Warrens Bakery – it has launched roast beef and horseradish pasties as well as roast chicken with sage stuffing pasties. Master baker Jason Jobling says: “The pasty is timeless and can be tailored to meet the tastes of everyone. We strive to keep it innovative, having pioneered vegan pasties, as well as the mince pie and custard pasty.” SPEAK EASY If 2017 was cited as “the year of voice recognition” by techies, then 2018 is when us mere mortals (especially us foodies) will really get to recognise its true potential. New devices – including the Google Pixel 2 phone and smart speaker Google Home, which both contain a Google Assistant – have been designed to make looking for recipes, shopping for ingredients and even cooking, that much easier. From setting timers and quick conversions, to having ingredients or recipe steps read out loud – hands free – the Google Assistant is there to help. Be sure to take a picture of your creation once it’s cooked, too – the Google Pixel 2 is the best smart phone camera we’ve ever used (and the world agrees – it’s officially the highest rated smartphone camera ever). store.google.com BRITISH GRAINS AND PULSES If you thought dried pulses and beans were a Mediterranean thing, think again. Lentils were grown in the UK in prehistoric times, and Suffolk-based company Hodmedod’s has kickstarted a revival of British-grown crops. Hodmedod’s won Best Food Producer in the BBC Food & Farming Awards 2017, so expect to see a lot more of its dried and canned pulses, flours and grains in 2018. Drinks trends 2018 ARRACK Distilled from the sap of coconut flowers, sugar cane and red rice matured in vats made from teak, Sri Lankan arrack is going to be one of the go-to spirits of 2018. It’s already making waves on the cocktail menu at Shoreditch speakeasy The Nightjar, and Sri Lankan restaurant Hoppers, off Oxford Street, where you can enjoy a Pina Pol-ada, featuring genever, arrack, fresh lime, pineapple, coconut milk and pandan leaf. RUM If gin was the spirit of 2017 (and 2016, and 2015...), then luxury rum is set to become the toast of 2018 according to the drinks soothsayers. Drinks company Diageo says its Guatemalan-made Zacapa rum is selling twice the amount it was last year, and more bars are filling their shelves with premium rums. In Newcastle, one of the biggest openings of recent months has been Colonel Porter’s Emporium, which serves more than 120 types of rum. Here are the best rum bars in the UK from global rum ambassador Ian Burrell. We chatted to Ian about rum on our podcast here: View oEmbed on the source website NON-ALCOHOLIC BEER A dramatic fall in the number of young adults drinking alcohol is reflected by the rise of non-alcohol bars like Café Sobar in Nottingham and The Brink in Liverpool, but also premium-quality de-alcoholised beers like Brewdog’s Nanny State. Tapping into this growing market is east London’s Nirvana Brewery, a low-alcohol and alcohol-free craft beer brewery. The 0% ABV beers include Kosmic stout and Tantra pale ale – and very good they are too. SAKE The Japanese have been making and drinking this potent rice wine for centuries, but now the UK is beginning to take this historic drink seriously. The Dojima Sake Brewery at Fordham Abbey near Cambridge opens a visitor centre and restaurant this coming June. Sake is also appearing on more top-end restaurant drinks lists. Check out our podcast on sake with expert brewers Kanpai here: View oEmbed on the source website MADEIRA Our love for madeira has never been stronger. Like sherry, this fortified wine has shaken off its dusty image and, whether it’s mixed with tonic or served straight, it’s a grown-up drink to be treated with respect. Look out for brands such as Blandy’s and Barbeito, or rarer D’Oliveiras. Fashionable bars are also stocking more madeiras, including The Remedy in Fitzrovia, which serves 17 types including an 1890 D’Oliveiras Verdelho at an eye-twitching £75 a shot. BOTTLED COCKTAILS Tony Conigliaro has been serving punchy pre-bottled negronis at his dinky Bar Termini in Soho since 2014. His classico negroni (gin, sweet vermouth and Italian bitters) joins the line-up of beautiful bottles above the bar at newly opened The Pilgrm in Paddington. Mixologists from some of the world’s best bars have contributed pre-mixed cocktails – try a rose vermouth, gin and maraschino liqueur mix from The Clumsies in Athens, or a Japanese whisky and Cocchi Americano concoction from Bar Trench in Tokyo. Elsewhere in the country, Ginger Pig in Brighton has put together 11 boutique hotel rooms complete with mini bars stocked with bottles of homemade cocktails including ice-cold Old Fashioneds made with Evan Williams extra aged bourbon. You can also buy bottled aged negronis and espresso martinis from Tesco. MUSHROOM DRINKS We’ve had turmeric and charcoal lattes, and matcha cappuccinos – is it time for supposedly super-healthy mushroom drinks to take off? The movement is big in Australia, and the yogis of NYC can’t get enough of chaga mushroom tea, so will these funky fungi beverages become the new kombucha? If you fancy giving it a go, Finnish brand Four Sigmatic is selling an ‘anti-stress’ mushroom hot cacao mix in the UK via bodykind.com. CHEESE TEA & FIZZY MILK Originating from the street stalls of Taiwan, cheese tea is made up of unsweetened iced tea, topped with whipped cream cheese. The Happy Lemon Taiwanese bubble tea chain (branches in London, Coventry, Manchester and Birmingham) serves Rock Salted Cheese – bubble tea with creamy cheese mixed with rock salt. And if that’s not enough, there are reports of fizzy milk on the way, with Arla developing it at its state-of-the-art innovation centre in Denmark. ICE WINES Made from grapes frozen on the vine during frosty winters, the sweet intensity of ice wines makes them an ideal dessert wine to accompany fruity puddings, or salty blue cheeses. But that’s not all – ice wines have started to interest mixologists, and Doctor Ink’s Curiosities in Exeter and The Bon Vivant in Edinburgh have introduced them to their cocktail lists. Lidl has also just introduced a Canadian ice wine collection in store.
It's getting hot in here: best BBQ restaurants in the UK
Missing those summer barbecues? Meet the chefs who are getting all fired up, as we explore the restaurants that are going back to basics and cooking over coals, come rain or shine
Looking for the best BBQ restaurants in London that isn’t your average steak or burger joint? Check out our expert guide to the top BBQ restaurants in the UK. These grill restaurants include Hawksmoor's BBQ menu, BBQ ribs at Smokestak, and much more at Berber & Q, Temper and Blacklock. Here are the best BBQ restaurants in London... Berber & Q The one for the veg A converted railway arch in east London, Berber & Q takes its culinary inspiration from the Middle East, North Africa and the Ottoman empire, with food cooked on a wood-fuelled mangal grill with shelves. (There’s another Berber & Q Shawarma Bar in Exmouth Market, too). Run by former Ottolenghi chefs Josh Katz and Mattia Bianchi, Berber & Q serves its meats on a tray with cumin salt, harissa and grilled pitta bread. A typical menu might include green chermoula chicken thighs or hand-pulled lamb shawarma, although meze dishes get equal billing. “Our cauliflower shawarma is probably our signature dish and one that definitely benefits from spending time on the fire,” says Josh. “Cauliflowers absorb smoke very well and are a great example of an ingredient that is hugely enhanced by time on the fire.” berberandq.com Pitt Cue The one where all the chefs eat Founders Tom Adams and Jamie Berger started Pitt Cue as a street-food truck on London’s Southbank, but it’s now a 100-cover restaurant tucked between the City and Shoreditch. “We see ourselves not as a barbecue restaurant, but as a restaurant that barbecues,” says restaurant manager Crispin Sugden. Housed in a 19th-century warehouse, the Devonshire Square Pitt Cue has an open kitchen with a US-built, wood-burning grill. Often using meat from their own farm in Cornwall, cooked over sustainable oak and lumpwood charcoal, chefs keep things simple. The ‘farm to fork’ philosophy extends to Tom’s beloved Mangalitsa pigs, loin chops of which end up on the daily changing blackboard menu, alongside the likes of smoked shoulder of lamb or aged rare-breed Dexter beef fillet. pittcue.co.uk Smokestak The cave man Born and raised in Barbados, David Carter’s early life was centred on outdoor living, and this inspired his Shoreditch restaurant Smokestak. “Growing up in Barbados, open-fire cooking was a way of life,” says David, who bought a 4.5-tonne smoker in Houston, Texas, and had it shipped back to east London to start Smokestak. What started out as a street-food operation in Dalston four years ago has turned into a fully fledged bricks-and-mortar business just off Brick Lane, serving dishes such as thick-cut pork rib with pickled cucumber; coal-roasted aubergine with red miso and toasted cashews; and grilled baby gem with walnut gremolata and crispy bacon. “Cooking over ‘real’ fire is primitive in every sense,” says David. “The draw of man, meat and fire has brought out the blokey bloke in all of us.” smokestak.co.uk Smokehouse The one obsessed with smoke “Fire means flavour,” according to John Kent, the head chef at Smokehouse in Islington, where the kitchen butchers whole animals from some of the UK’s best farms. Whole-animal butchery and cooking over fire are just two things they are passionate about at Smokehouse, and it demonstrates skills that are missing in many kitchens. “We had been looking for a way to take whole-animal butchery and cooking over fire to the next level, and opening Smokehouse was our answer to that,” says John, who cooks meat over English oak and lumpwood charcoal on a robata grill. “From a chef’s perspective, fire introduces a level of flavour. You don’t often find a fire pit in the standard home kitchen, and this has created a great opportunity for chefs to create flavours you can’t replicate at home.” smokehouseislington.co.uk Murray May’s The one in a Mercedes A familiar sight at Bristol street-food markets and festivals, Murray May’s is run by Ewan ‘Murray’ Lindsay and Thecla ‘May’ Horton, who set up their mobile catering business after working in the hospitality industry for many years. Working out of a converted 1987 Mercedes truck, they cook kebabs on a charcoal-fuelled Turkish mangal grill. Thecla admits that cooking over real fire in a truck can have its challenges. “On a hot day, it gets a bit toasty at times, and then there’s the logistics of making sure the fire is ready on time for an event, and also extinguished and cool before driving off!” @murraymaysfood Ember Yard The one with basic instincts Part of the Salt Yard Group, Ember Yard in Soho serves Italian- and Spanish-inspired tapas and small plates using a bespoke, Basque-style grill and sustainable charcoal and wood from Kent, which gives a distinctive taste to dishes such as chargrilled Iberico presa with whipped jamon butter, and grilled octopus with broad beans, preserved lemon, pea and mint purée. Head chef Brett Barnes says: “The char and the smoke working in unison are a magical combination that appeals to our most basic instincts.” saltyardgroup.co.uk Asador 44 The one that dry-ages In the shadow of Cardiff’s Millennium Stadium, Asador 44 works wonders with the barbecue grill and spit in its open kitchen. To complement the Spanish theme, owners Owen and Tom Morgan have installed dry-ageing cabinets in the restaurant so that diners can see the Galician, Asturian and Welsh meat maturing while they dine. Owen says: “Birch is becoming our firm favourite to cook our 10-year-old dry-aged Galician blonde ribs. The flavour from the ageing is incredible in itself, but when you add the flavour of the charcoal cooking, as well as a crust of fleur de sal, to the meat, and serve it rare and sliced, it’s an experience that should be tried at least once in life by everyone!” Read our full review of Asador 44 here Hawksmoor The fire-starter Although he worked at Michelin-star level with the likes of Marco Pierre White and Pierre Koffmann, former British soldier Richard Turner’s name is now synonymous with barbecuing. “I first started cooking over live fire 10 years ago in the gardenof my pub, The Albion in Islington,” says the executive chef of the Hawksmoor restaurant group, which has sites in London and Manchester. “I bought a huge barbecue to cope with the seasonal fluctuations of the pub and acquired a reputation as a live-fire cook.” He prefers to use fruit woods, particularly apple and cherry, although the restaurant group’s decision to cook this way was “a happy accident” as their original Spitalfields site inherited a charcoal grill from the previous Turkish restaurateurs. “To be honest, as a business, it is rather expensive. A live-fire restaurant needs state-of-the-art extraction and filtration, which can add hundreds of thousands of pounds to the cost of your kitchen build.” thehawksmoor.com Kitty Fisher’s The fashionable one Fashionable restaurant Kitty Fisher’s may be situated in upmarket Mayfair but its culinary heart is very much in the Basque country. “The original influence was the asador style of cooking from northern Spain,” says head chef George Barson. “With big cuts of meat and fish cooked over birch- or apple wood-fired grills, we felt that this style, and a relaxed, sociable way of eating, was perfect for the intimate setting.” This means dishes such as leeks, smoked hollandaise, crispy chicken skin and hazelnuts or Iberico pork, Hispi cabbage, apple and wild garlic. “As it is a very small kitchen, almost every dish is cooked over the fire in some way –whether this be a piece of rib-eye steak directly onto the grill, or making a smoked caramel in a pan over the flames.” kittyfishers.com The Gunton Arms The one with all the wood Chef Stuart Tattersall doesn’t have to look too far for his supply of meat, game or even fuel – most of it comes from the Norfolk estate that surrounds The Gunton Arms, where he cooks meat over wood in the bar’s fireplace. “We cook on a very simple set-up comprising an 8mm steel plate that sits directly on the open fire,” he says. The rib of beef is the star dish, the wood giving the meat a nutty flavour on the fat which works especially well with a silky béarnaise sauce and goose-fat potatoes, also finished on the fire. “A lot of guests have a desire to be part of the action, and sharing the room with the chef gives a theatrical vibe to their evening.” theguntonarms.co.uk Roth Bar & Grill The one with a fire pit At the Roth Bar & Grill in Somerset, chef Steve Horrell uses an outdoor fire pit all year round. “We have designed our own outdoor cooking equipment and fire pits, and had them made by a local fabricator in Bruton,” says Steve, who cites Argentine chef Francis Mallmann among his influences. The set-up at Roth Bar & Grill is an impressive one. As well as a rack for cooking whole animals, there is ‘The Bird Cage’ comprising 50 chains hanging over the fire for chickens, game birds or legs of lamb, and ‘The Inferno Table’, a three-layered cooking table, the middle shelf used for cooking salt-baked fish or roasting vegetables. rothbarandgrill.co.uk Som Saa The one with the spice Housed in a former fabric warehouse in Spitalfields, Som Saa is proof that cooking over real fire doesn’t always have to be about American-style barbecue cooking. Head chefs Mark Dobbie and Andy Oliver specialise in regional Thai street-food dishes such as grilled quail with crispy garlic, lime, pepper and salt, and whole grilled mackerel with a peanut dipping sauce. The kitchen has a large open pit grill with racks at different heights so the chefs can cook food over a blend of beech wood and charcoal at different speeds and intensities. Mark says: “Thai cuisine doesn’t have the same emphasis on heavy smoke flavours that other cuisines might. Street-food vendors in Thailand all have their DIY homemade grills and you’ll never be able to get close to that flavour unless you’re cooking over wood.” Read our full review of Som Saa here Temper The one with stovies (and Neil Rankin) One of the UK’s leading barbecue chefs, Neil Rankin opened the Soho branch of Temper at the end of 2016 and it has been such a success that a second site, Temper City, opened over the summer. At both, meat (butchered in-house) is cooked in open fire pits, over wood and charcoal. The eclectic menu at Temper City includes a range of dishes with no geographical boundaries so mutton rolls and Korean haggis sit alongside meatball marrow masala. “We wanted to create a spectacle for the guests,” says Neil. “We have a five-metre-long open pit with a clay wood-fired oven at one end and also have two flat, cast-iron areas, one for cooking burgers and getting colour on steaks and one for the tortillas. The wood oven is just used to finish the meat, giving it a big kiss of high heat.” Read our full review of Temper here The Cauldron The one which shunned The Big Six For Bristol chef Henry Eldon, cooking over solid fuels is driven by a desire to connect to the origins of cookery. Dishes like roasted monkfish tail and home-cured pancetta and charcoal-grilled jerk aubergine are created in a kitchen powered entirely by solid fuels. There is a wood-fired oven, a coal-powered vintage iron Swedish stove, a 60-litre cast-iron cauldron and a Japanese-style yakitori grill. Henry’s decision not to have gas was a result of “a primitive connection to the smell of a bonfire” as much as it was not having to rely on the ‘Big Six’ energy suppliers. thecauldron.restaurant Blacklock The one with the flatbreads The original Blacklock opened in 2015 in a former illegal strip club in the heart of Soho, and a second launched earlier this year in the City. Named after a foundry in Tennessee that made clothes irons, Blacklock specialises in lamb, beef and pork chops cooked over English oak and piled on chargrilled flatbreads. Among the most popular dishes on the menu are the maple-cured bacon chop, the 55-day-aged rump cap steak and the Barnsley lamb chops. “The only gas we use in our kitchen is to fuel the fryers for our beef dripping chips,” says founder Gordon Ker. “We cook everything over or in our charcoal grill, including things that would typically be roasted in an oven, as we prefer the natural and intense flavour you get from cooking over live fire.” theblacklock.com Other BBQ restaurants to try Chimis, Southwark In a nutshell: Pared-back Argentinian restaurant serving luscious grilled meats in a tucked-away part of Southwark. What’s the vibe? An Argentinian parilla joint with a look that’s modern and cheerfully unadorned – think exposed air-conditioning ducts on the ceilings and plain, sturdy tables and chairs made of warm-coloured slabs of wood and iron. The main focal point is the huge charcoal grill (embers glowing underneath) which dominates the open kitchen. What’s the food like? Any menu that lists fried eggs as a side can justifiably be described as hearty, and Chimis’ offering abounds in winter-bulking fare. The highlights of the mains section are the grilled meat and fish dishes, which include Argentinian beef, secreto iberico (a succulent grilled Spanish pork cut), lamb cutlets, chicken legs, cod, octopus and more. Try the indulgent picada de parilla (listed under starters in the menu, but easily big enough for a main): this was a hearty plateful of tender, juicy sweetbreads, a black pudding (lighter and more fragrant than the English version) and a delicious smoked pork sausage. With all of this came a mound of some of the best homemade chips we’ve tasted, fried in beef fat and drizzled in a garlic sauce. And the drinks? The focus of Chimis’ wine menu is, as one would expect, almost all Argentinian with a few Uruguayan vintages sprinkled in. Options are available for white and rosé wine but the focus is very much on red. El Guardado Chic was a lovely smooth syrah and Lazos Terra (our favourite) was a smoky, tannic cabernet sauvignon with dark fruits. olive says… Avoid the table next to the coat rack, to avoid being disturbed by guests reaching over to grab their garments throughout the meal. Words | Mark Taylor