Best restaurants in Athens: where a local eats in the Greek capital
Discover the tavernas with sun-dappled courtyards, the top bakeries, coolest wine bars and more with our guide to the best places to eat and drink in Athens
Looking for the best restaurants, bars and café's in Greece's foodie capital? We asked Athens-based Kate Lough for her top recommendations. For more European travel guides, check out our picks of the where to eat in Porto, best restaurants in Tbilisi, Georgia, the best restaurants in Prague or our favourite European city breaks. After falling more and more in love with Athens over the past 18 months, I moved to its Kypseli neighbourhood in January 2025 – the fitting culmination of a childhood spent devouring Greek myths, exploring its sun-drunk islands and studying its ancient language. An undulating city that straddles ancient and modern, Athens fizzes with a creative energy. Its gastronomic scene also ripens from month to month, as homegrown chefs open dynamic restaurants and native wine producers bolster its drinks menus. From old-school classics to contemporary tavernas, here are a handful of my favourites, many of which celebrate homegrown ingredients, methods and vines. Best places to eat and drink in Athens Linou Soumpasis & Sia, Psiri Open since 2022, Linou Soumpasis & Sia is one of the best examples of Athens’ neo-gastronomy. It's a love letter to Greek produce and wines, including some brilliant pet nats, and most of its offerings are made from scratch. An all-white space is perked up with metal tables and chairs and wooden counters (a great option for solo diners), and warmed with skinny beeswax church candles — apt for a former candle shop. Choose from top quality dishes with a pescatarian leaning such as hot wild greens, tuna carpaccio in watermelon oil and grilled John Dory. New for 2025, it now serves breakfast — including a delicious schnitzel bun. Seychelles, Keramikos Located in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Keramikos, Seychelles is an older favourite on the neo-taverna scene. Always packed, this relaxed spot works just as well for a long lunch with friends as it does perching at the small bar for a late dinner à deux. The menu, inspired by small producers around Greece, changes regularly, but make sure to try its stalwart beef pappardelle, topped with soft mizithra cheese. Taverna Ton Filon, Kolonos Drawing a loyal crowd to scruffy Kolonos, Taverna Ton Filon is a co-venture from chef Yiannis Mousios and sommelier Giorgos Kontorizos. Charmingly decorated in homage to its 1950s origins, this modern taverna riffs on traditional Greek dishes, paired with good value Greek wines. The menu changes daily, but you can expect plates such as roasted beetroot with walnut skordalia, grilled sardines and some excellent wedges of potato — plus, for dessert, an addictive chocolate mousse laced with salt. In summer, the softly lit courtyard space is one of the loveliest alfresco spots in Athens. instagram.com/tavernatonfilon Oikonomou, Ano Petralona Opposite the much loved Zefyros outdoor cinema in the leafy neighbourhood of Ano Petralona, Oikonomou has been serving up comforting family recipes since 1930. With its chequered tile floor and joyful primrose yellow walls, it is a simple, homely taverna that nourishes stomach and soul. Alongside pitchers of hyma (house wine), order traditional dishes such as fava, rooster with spaghetti and roast lamb, which falls off the bone. On sunnier days, sit at one of its pavement tables under the shade of olive trees. Manari Taverna, Monastiraki A newcomer to the Athenian scene at the end of 2024, Manari has quickly cemented itself as one of the hottest tables in town. From the founder of Birdman and Nolan, it focuses heavily on meat, with a hefty chunk of its menu cooked over fire. Come with a big group and order a pile of the oregano-marinated chicken or mutton paidakia and the melt-in-the-mouth lamb giouvetsi, alongside its cabbage salad and top-notch patates. Make sure to book ahead. manaritaverna.com Epta Martyres, Neos Kosmos Run by a group of friends, this is a low-intervention wine bar with meze dishes inspired by the tsipouradika bars of Volos – where many of the team come from and sister to Loggia in Sifnos. Sit outside with a pét nat and make your way through the chef ’s surprise plates. @eptamartyres.athens Ta Kanaria, Moschato An idyllic option for Sunday lunch, you will be surrounded by Greek families in the sun-dappled courtyard of Ta Kanaria. Run by the Argyropoulos family since the 1950s, this fish taverna has no menu, which only makes it more delightful. Dark olives, thick slices of olive oil-drenched feta and a perfect tomato salad (with grated onion) are served ahead of platters of plump prawns and excellent whole fish such as bream or red mullet sold by the kilo. Pharaoh, Exarchia Don’t let its location on a dodgy street between Exarchia and Omonia put you off. Once inside, Pharoah always delivers on a sexy vibe. The proud owner of a Michelin Bib Gourmand, it combines village-style dishes cooked the old fashioned way (over fire and in wood ovens), an extensive natural wine list from Greece and beyond, and vinyl. Once the kitchen closes, it transforms into a late-night bar, soundtracked by the city’s finest DJs. pharaoh.gr Di Porto, Monastiraki Another Athenian institution, you will find Di Porto down a few stairs in a nondescript basement opposite the Varvakeios fish market. Workers and visitors mingle at this no-menu joint that has been in operation since the late 1800s. Retsina is served in aluminium jugs, bread is plonked straight onto butcher’s paper stretched across its few tables and plates (made with ingredients from the market) include simple things such as chickpeas, meat stews and Greek salad. No-frills authenticity. Black Salami, Exarchia The Black Salami micro-bakery makes the best sandwiches in Athens, with its chewy yet crispy focaccia-style bread. It sells out every day by closing time at 5pm, so get there early to choose the best fillings — including my favourite with mortadella, tomato, feta and pistachios. instagram.com/the_black_salami_microbakery Materia Prima, Pagrati Occupying a gorgeous spot on the edge of Mesolongiou Square in Pagrati, this is the second wine bistro from the Materia Prima team. A changing menu of dishes such as potato cakes, pasta with lemon and wild mushrooms, and short ribs with celeriac are married with an impressive wine list that changes monthly — and runs the gamut from Greek Assyrtikos and Xinomavros to Pinot Noirs from Chile. materiaprima.gr Dexamenes, Kolonaki An all-day spot leading up the pedestrianised street from Dexameni Square, this is a winner for a sunny weekend lunch in elegant Kolonaki. Informal and walk-in only — there is often a queue but it moves quickly — Dexamenes sets up its dark green tables on the pavement and serves up a reasonably priced menu of mezze-style dishes such as dakos salad and fried calamari, with jugs of white or tall glasses of cloudy ouzo. Afterwards, you can climb nearby Lycabettus Hill for a spectacular view of the Acropolis and the wider sprawl of Athens below. Kennedy Vins, Syntagma Self-styled as a ‘sans sulphite listening bar’, Kennedy Vins is one of the best-looking spaces in Athens, and the latest project from photographer and magazine founder Chris Kontos. Small but perfectly formed, the bar has a thoughtful list of wines from small French producers — with a focus on the Alsace region — simple plates of cheese and charcuterie and a high-end sound system for records, which Kontos personally selects each evening. instagram.com/kennedyvins Diporto, Downtown Diporto sits in a nondescript basement opposite the Varvakeios fish market. Workers and visitors mingle at this no-menu joint, in operation since the late 1800s. Retsina is served in aluminium jugs, bread is plonked straight onto butcher’s paper and plates include simple but market-fresh grilled sardines and stews. Kora Bakery, Kolonaki Near the bottom of Lycabettus Hill, Kora is a contemporary Athenian bakery specialising in sourdough and viennoiserie. Stop by for a high quality loaf, a pain au chocolat or one of its famous salted cookies. Look out for its fleeting offerings, including hot cross buns at Easter (a nod to co-founder Ianthi Michalaki’s time in London) or melomakarona (small honey cakes) at Christmas. korabakery.com Tanini Agapi Mou, Exarchia One of the pioneers of Athens’ natural wine scene, Tanini Agapi Mou (which translates as ‘Tanin my love’) has an impressive cellar of 100 all-Greek natural wines — most of which are available by the glass. Its knowledgeable, friendly staff are on hand to guide you through the vast menu (helpful ruler included), which roams from Serifos to Crete to Thessaly. Plus, look out for its regular tasting nights. taniniagapimou.gr Wine is Fine, Monastiraki A hit since it opened in 2023, this Gallo-Greek natural wine bar and restaurant puts a relaxed spin on white-tablecloth drinking and dining. Settle in at one of its pavement tables, and make your way through its low or no-intervention glasses of the day — soaked up with a bowl of its much loved cacio e pepe. Walk-ins only. wineisfine.gr A foodie day trip outside of Athens An hour’s drive from central Athens, just over the Corinth Canal, lies the Peloponnese. Book in for lunch at Kavos 1964, an iconic family-run taverna known for its fish and shellfish dishes. After a quick dip on the tiny beach nearby, order some taramasalata, kalamaraki and horta (wild greens) to start, before sharing a vast platter of spaghetti with clams. After a long lunch, you can visit the ancient theatre in Epidaurus, which is only a short drive away and one of Greece’s most important archaeological sites. More travel guides Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Five Greek island getaways for food lovers
Kate Lough shares her edit of the best Greek islands that foodies should bookmark – where to stay, what to do and where to eat
As well as characterful hotels, sparkling waters for swimming and beautiful Mediterranean light, the Greek islands are a haven for food lovers with everything from traditional tavernas to modern gastronomy, farm-to-table communal feasts and a buzzing viticulture in between. From Tinos to Crete, we round up the best Greek islands to earmark for a summer trip. Best Greek island holidays for food lovers Sifnos Known as the Cycladic island of gastronomy, Sifnos is the birthplace of renowned 20th century Greek chef Nikos Tselementes, whose cookery book is still the home-cooking bible for Greeks. While on the island, you must taste two of its most traditional dishes: revithada, a slow-cooked chickpea soup with onion, garlic and bay leaves; and mastelo, lamb cooked slowly with dill and wine in one of the ceramic pots that Sifnos is synonymous with. In recent years, Sifnos has begun to draw an elegant crowd with its contemporary restaurants, notably Cantina, which perches above the water in the shadow of Kastro, the ancient capital of the island, and its new sister restaurant Pelicanos, a reimagined waterside taverna in Faros. Omega 3 is a trendy but unpretentious seafood bar: order sharing plates of taramasalata and various raw fish dishes and accompany your meal with a bottle of fresh, crisp white (ideally a malagousia). The place to stay is Versina Astra, a sexy boutique hotel just above the idyllic swimming spot of Poulati, which opens a second restaurant in the port of Kamares this June. Where to stay on Sifnos: Doubles at Verina Astra from £349 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Milos On the north-western coast of Milos you will find the charming village of Trypiti where hotelier Nausika Georgiadou has an even more charming house overlooking the curve of Klima. The former economist has spent the last eight years shaping the perfect hideaway, Skinopi Lodge, in the neighbouring village. Set within an olive grove, the fruits of which are bottled for guests, the lodge launches its kitchen table this summer. Guests staying in its seven villas will be able to pick their own herbs and vegetables for cooking classes with local grandmothers, as well as enjoy communal evening feasts cooked in a traditional Cycladic wood oven. When you are not marvelling at the Skinopi sunsets or swimming off its private deck, try and bag a table at O Hamos!, where the Psatha family only include what they grow or rear on their nearby farm— try the pork kleftiko — on the restaurant’s handwritten menu. Sarakiniko cove is known for its white rock formations and crystal blue waters. Have a swim, then head to Ohamos to sit in its shady, flower-filled garden and try local dishes like aubergine with pork or roast kid; the meats and cheeses come from the owners’ farm. For a real treat, charter Nausika’s boat Summer Wine to take you to the neighbouring island of Kimolos, and book in for a feet-in-the-sand lunch at To Kyma. Where to stay on Milos: Villas at Skinopi Lodge from £386 per night, check availability at mrandmrssmith.com Folegandros Near to Milos, the diminutive island of Folegandros was put on the map in 2024 thanks to the opening of Gundari, a five-star eco resort set in 80 acres of nature reserve on its western coast. Food takes centre stage with Michelin-starred Greek chef Lefteris Lazarou behind its dining spaces, which are powered by the hotel’s own organic farm, where guests can also enjoy farm-to-fork dinners. From Gundari, there are many hiking routes to explore, virgin beaches to discover and tavernas with spectacular views to bookmark — such as Papalagi, which is best enjoyed after a boat trip around the island. For something a little special, foodies should request a cooking class with yiayia Irene, whose homespun recipes have sustained her restaurant kitchen for more than 60 years. For dinner outside of the in resort, head to the main square on Folegandros, to Kritikos. Order matsata as an accompaniment to rabbit stew, tomato-stewed rooster or kontosouvli (pork roasted on a large spit). The house wine is good, or order a carafe of tsipouro. Where to stay on Folegandros: Standard suite at Gundari from £385 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Tinos Tinos still flies relatively under the radar but it has much to offer the more intrepid traveller. Strewn with more than 40 traditional villages, nascent vineyards and secluded beaches, the Cycladic island is also a hot tip for the more discerning food lover. Seafood pasta at Thalassaki by the water’s edge is a must, as is the lobster baked with orzo at Marathia near Agios Fostis. Stay at Xinara House, a beautifully converted old bishop’s house set beneath Exombourga Mountain, where its house manager Jenny can organise all manner of like-a-local experiences, from private tastings of O-Tionos’ Assyrtiko wines, to visits to Aggelas Rouggeri, where local kariki cheese is matured in the traditional Tinos style. Where to stay on Tinos: Xinara House, check rates and availability at xinarahouse.com or booking.com Crete Greece’s largest island, food is the language of love for Crete. Set across mountain and sea, while drenched in year-round sun and carpeted in olive groves, it is an abundant natural larder of fish, meat, vegetables — Cretan horta (wild greens) are the best — fruit, honey and, of course, the finest extra virgin olive oil. Bed down near the pretty Venetian town of Chania at the family-run Methoi Kindeli Estate, a working organic farm dating back to the 17th century which has three guesthouses to choose from. Family recipes are shared to provide inspiration for evenings spent playing chef in your kitchen, and its myriad fruits are served at breakfast and stocked in guest fridges. For something a little swankier, the iconic Blue Palace reopens this May under the Phāea brand as a boutique hotel. With food at its core, guests will be invited to harvest and cook their own ingredients in the traditional way, under the soil, before enjoying a communal feast under the night sky — alongside Cretan wines. Where to stay on Crete: Metohi Kindelis Estate guesthouses from £240 per night, check availability at metohi-kindelis.gr. Phāea Blue Palace suites from £575 per night, check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Kate Lough is a freelance writer and editor. You can follow her on Instagram @‌kateloughstudio More hotel inspiration for Greek island getaways from our team Eliamos, Kefalonia Eliamos is an all-villa hotel that blends privacy with five-star hotel luxury and uninterrupted views of the Ionian Sea. Designed to feel like a home away from home, 12 secluded villas are set on the hillside, divided by lavender-lined paths to create a village atmosphere. Expect high ceilings and open beams, generous bathrooms with olive oil toiletries to use in waterfall showers and floor-to-ceiling bi-fold doors opening onto private terraces with saltwater pools that boast uninterrupted sea views. The on-site open-air restaurant Olais (named after the birds that visit the surrounding olive trees) forms the heart of Eliamos, with all meals enjoyed outdoors with views of the sea, Wake up early to watch the sunrise for breakfast here, where the à la carte menu includes a range of egg dishes and avocado on toast variations, along with Greek specialities such as bougatsa thessalonikis (vanilla cream and cinnamon filled pastries), fresh pita and pancakes with local honey and apricot jam. Enjoy impressive salads at lunch and Kefalonian specialities for dinner, from tomato fritters to Kreatopita (meat pie) with layers of crunchy pastry and tender ragu. Unwind with in-room spa treatments, walk down a secret path to the secluded beach cove or hop on an e-bike to explore the island. The open-air gym is great for an outdoor workout or guided Pilates class. For a hands-on experience, join a Mediterranean cookery class on the Olais restaurant patio. From £650, check rates and availability at eliamos.com, booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com Casa Cook, Rhodes Tucked into the mountain-fringed landscape near Kolymbia, Casa Cook Rhodes is an adults-only retreat that blends soulful design with a connection to nature and community. The hotel's architecture leans into simplicity – whitewashed structures, organic textures and calming pools merge beautifully with olive trees and rugged hillsides. Every room has a unique offering but the shared pool suites are particularly clever – semi-private thanks to verandas and greenery. Casa Cook takes the Greek concept of parea – a gathering of friends sharing ideas and moments – and infuses it into every aspect, from the communal tables at its Kitchen Club restaurant to the layout of its pools. Food is fresh and thoughtful, with a focus on seasonal ingredients. Breakfast is a standout: local honey, thick yogurt and freshly baked breads sit alongside international options. The Freddo, a blended iced coffee, is also not one to miss. For lunch, Olive restaurant offers a relaxed, poolside setting serving meze plates. Come evening the beach bar pulses with laid-back DJ sets, the ideal backdrop to sip on sweet local Rhodian melitio wine. Wellness is central here: morning yoga sessions, a tranquil spa and the ever-present backdrop of the mountains create an atmosphere of serene escape. For those seeking a bit more adventure, climb up to the Tsambika Monastery. Along the way you’ll brush shoulders with mountain goats pecking at olive trees until reaching a hilltop with panoramic views across the island’s landscape, where mountains roll into turquoise bays. It’s a hotel that doesn't just offer a place to stay but curates a rhythm of life – slow, social and deeply restorative. Starting room rates, including breakfast, at Casa Cook Rhodes are EUR 209 per night, depending on the booking period. Check availability at casacook.com or booking.com Amathus Residences, Cyprus Amathus Beach Hotel is a truly luxurious place to rest your head right on the Limassol waterfront. In addition to the beachfront hotel, one-, two- and three-bedroom serviced residences are available to book for longer stays, with access to the hotel’s vast facilities such as top-tier restaurants (The Grill Room and Limanaki Restaurant, plus Italian, Cantonese and Japanese-Peruvian fusion spots), a spa, tennis court, fitness centre, indoor-outdoor pool and more. Some apartments have private pools on balconies overlooking the beach, and all have impeccably stylish décor with floor-to-ceiling windows, muted tones and a marble bathroom kitted out with Molton Brown products. The breakfast buffet, served from the Kalypso Restaurant, includes live cooking stations and Cypriot specialties such as tahinopittes (sweet tahini pastries), grilled halloumi and local honey, best enjoyed on the terrace overlooking the crystalline waters on a warm day. From £1,742 based on a two-night stay for two adults. Check rates and availability at amathusresidences.com or booking.com Nido, part of the Mar-Bella Collection, Corfu If you're looking for a luxurious slice of heaven just a short drive from Corfu old town, five-star adults only hotel Nido is for you. Part of the Mar-Bella collection, Nido consists of 70 rooms, all are suites and come with their own mini pool or jacuzzi. It has two restaurants offering Greek and Mediterranean gastronomy and two bars – one of which is in the infinity pool. So you can sip a cocktail while staring out at the breath-taking panoramic views of the Ionian sea. Relaxation and indulgence are the name of the game at Nido and it's been carefully designed to be a treat for the senses. Colourful bougainvillea line the paths and the decor is exquisite – our favourite room is the Heritage bar. With huge windows, plush furnishings and a stunning marble-topped bar, it's the perfect place for pre dinner drinks. You're in good hands with their mixologists, who were thrilled to bring us everything from fresh juice to negroni spagliatio (with prosecco in it). Compared to the all inclusive sister hotel MarBella next door, which has 359 rooms and is a very family-friendly affair, Nido is peaceful and intimate. It would be a great spot for a romantic getaway. However, there are some fantastic meals to be eaten at MarBella – we enjoyed plate after plate of fantastic fresh fish and seafood at the Deck beach bar and grill while sipping local Greek wines. The good news is they offer a dine around experience, to experience the restaurants at MarBella all you need to do is hitch a ride in one of the private golf carts. A highlight of our stay was lunch in the rustic, family-owned Akrogiali taverna, located next to the hotel beach. It was here we had the best taramasalata we've ever had the pleasure of eating with warm, fluffy pitta, scattered with oregano and salt – a thoughtful touch which really set this taverna lunch apart. As well as Greek salad drenched in extra virgin olive oil, made with salty Corfu olives and tomatoes which tasted of sunshine. Sat in a shady spot, next to the lapping waves, it really is paradise. There are lots more classic dishes to try too, like calamari, baked butter beans and stuffed tomatoes. Another one for your itinerary is the walking food tour of Corfu town, organised by the hotel. Starting in Durrell park, under the low branches of olive and magnolia trees, you'll learn about architecture, history, Corfu traditions and, of course, food! Stopping at the best local spots, we tried delicious cured meats, cheeses and – our favourite – sweet and savoury pastries from a tiny bakery. We couldn't stop smiling as we wolfed down feta and spinach pie, nutty halwa bites and slices of custard tart. All washed down with the ginger beer that's a Corfu must-try. Anyone who appreciates good ingredients will love stopping at the spice shop, an Aladdin's cave that hits you with an unbelievable fragrance before you're even through the door. For those with a sweet tooth, there's the artisan kumquat shop. From the traditional candied fruits which have a deep floral honey-like flavour, to the selection of boozy beverages, there's something for everyone. Make sure you get a freshly made canned cocktail to sip on while you walk. Heads up for booking: Greek Orthodox Easter is in April and Corfu town gets exceptionally busy, as the church plays a central role in the procession and ceremonies. Rates at Nido start at €196 for bed and breakfast, they also offer half board. At MarBella, rooms start at €272 with premium all inclusive. Hotel Archontiko Angelou, Leros Though Marianna doesn’t offer dinner at this sympathetically renovated old mansion, her al fresco breakfasts are worth a visit alone. She uses a glut of local ingredients (many grown in the hotel’s garden, where breakfast is taken), including freshly squeezed juices, yogurt, honey, home-baked bread, fresh cheeses, jams and a legendary lemon curd. There are also vegan, dairy- and gluten-free options, such as chia puddings and cashew cheese. If you want to explore Leros, Marianna will pack a picnic for you. If not, press her for recommendations, from the island’s best beaches and tavernas to boat trips for lazy days spent snoozing and swimming to remote white pebble beaches. Doubles from £121 per night, check availability at hotel-angelou-leros.com or booking.com Kivotos and Mavro, Santorini Perched high on Santorini's cliffs, Kivotos Hotel's unique architecture mirrors the island's volcanic aesthetic, creating a dramatic and sleek effect for a luxury break. Located in the tranquil area of Imerovigli on the island’s coastal west side, the hotel’s unobstructed views of the crescent-shaped caldera are among the best on the island. The perfect spot to soak in these scenes is at Kivotos’ upscale dining establishment, Mavro. Now under the expert guidance of Chef Dimitris Katrivesis, Mavro blends local ingredients and traditional recipes with modern flavour combinations. Drawing from Katrivesis’ global travels, the signature cooking technique is Japanese robata (open fire cooking) while the Greek shared dining style, ‘moirasma’, is heartily embraced. These sharable tasting menus, themed around the phases of the moon, feature locally sourced ingredients and superbly fresh seafood that is delivered daily by local fishermen. The whole effect is bold, decadent, and unforgettable with a bucket list Santorini-sunset as your backdrop. Doubles from £448 per night, check availability at booking.com and expedia.co.uk Rosy’s Little Village, Agistri A cluster of whitewashed buildings splashed with bright bursts of bougainvillea, hibiscus and geraniums, Rosy’s perches above a small rocky cove (grab a kayak to explore sea caves nearby). A family-run hotel serving simple but excellent food, the extensive menu at its terrace restaurant includes marinated anchovies, zucchini pie, rosemary lamb and glasses of local retsina, a salty-sweet wine made using pine tree sap. Best of all, freshly caught fish (sold by weight) includes sardines, red mullet and swordfish, all of which is simply grilled and served with organic vegetables grown on-site. Eat looking out across the Saronic Gulf towards the neighbouring island of Aegina. Doubles from £82 per night, check availability at rosyslittlevillage.com The Good Life, Syros The villas and studios at this aptly named organic retreat each come with kitchens (help yourself to plums, peaches, figs and lemons from the farm to pep up your holiday breakfasts). Guests at The Good Life congregate around a large outdoor kitchen in the evenings to cook and share stories, and once a week they’re invited to join a (complimentary) communal dinner – think barbecued beef fillet with a range of pitta breads and salads – accompanied by generous amounts of Greek wine. Grapes in the vineyards are also used to distill juice for tsipouro (similar to Italian grappa), and guests are given a small bottle to take home with them. Double villa from £182, check availability at booking.com Kamarotí, Sifnos Sensitively built within an ancient olive grove (not a single tree was cut down during construction), with views over the pretty village of Kastro and the Aegean Sea beyond, Kamarotí puts a surprisingly Spanish twist on its food (the hotel is owned by three Spanish brothers). Breakfast varies greatly: you might have Spanish omelette one day, and diced home-grown tomatoes with fresh local mizithra cheese and crushed melon seed juice the next. Dinner, served only in July and August, starts with a selection of tapas, and paella is on the menu once a week. Doubles from £110, check availability at kamaroti.com Villa de Loulia, Corfu Named after owner Loukia’s grandmother, Loulia, who built this historic Italianate villa in 1808, Villa de Loulia houses nine elegant, colourful bedrooms and suites, plus a restaurant that serves old family recipes made from local, organic produce. Start the day by the pool with Loukia’s homemade zucchini pie or ravani orange and almond semolina cake, then explore the ancient village of Peroulades and its uncrowded beaches before heading back to Villa de Loulia for classic Corfiot dishes (including bourdeto: fish cooked in spicy tomato sauce). Doubles from £108 a night, check availability at villadeloulia.gr Milia Mountain Retreat, Crete Set amid chestnut trees with the rugged mountainous beauty of the Kissamos region as a backdrop, Milia is a beautifully renovated collection of 15th-century stone buildings. All rooms have thick stone walls and their own fireplaces, making it perfect for cosy off-season stays, and the retreat is surrounded by an extensive network of hiking trails. The restaurant serves traditional Cretan “humble gastronomy”, such as wild greens soup and grilled aubergine spread, as well as roast baby goat, lamb with herbs, and bureki courgette pot pie cooked in a wood stove. Every Wednesday, guests can join a four-hour traditional Cretan cooking session in the kitchen. Doubles from £75, check availability at milia.gr Levendis Estate, Ithaca Aussie-Greek couple Marilyn and Spero Raftopulos – plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko – run this collection of four cottages plus swimming pool on Spero’s family homestead. It overlooks a bay in the north of the island and has been going for more than 30 years. Bathrooms come generously stocked with Levendis’ own natural skincare products, while cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner. Plus peach juice, bread, homemade jams, local thyme honey, freshly laid eggs and own-recipe muesli for the first morning’s breakfast. Click here for more places to eat and drink in Ithaca. Check rates and availability at levendisestate.com Mèlisses, Andros A stylish, four-suite guesthouse, Mèlisses is a favourite with foodies thanks to its culinary host, Allegra Pomilio, an Italian with a passion for all things Greek. Every season she hosts a selection of retreats and workshops together with guest chefs and other creatives. Sign up and, in between learning how to cook tahini chocolate cookies, you might join an excursion to nearby waterfalls or to Palaiopoli, the ancient, partly-submerged former capital of the island. Suites have kitchens and sea views and are so dreamily decorated in shades of greys and blues that you’ll want to move right in. Guests gather in the open-plan kitchen for breakfast before heading down to the private bay, glass of homemade sour cherry lemonade in hand, for a morning dip. Check rates and availability at melisses-andros.com Ktima Lemonies, Andros As the name suggests, the Ktima Lemonies estate on lush Andros is surrounded by lemon (and olive) groves. Start the day with syrup made from lemon tree flower petals (which owner Nelly carefully collects at dawn to avoid bees and to keep them fresh), served on bread or simply from the jar. Only breakfast is available, but making your own picnic lunch from the breakfast buffet is encouraged rather than frowned upon here, and you can enjoy a glass of the estate’s own wines or limoncello in the evening before heading out to one of the island’s many restaurants. Check rates and availability at ktimalemonies.gr More travel guides 10 unique walking holidays for foodies 8 of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations Best Morocco food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
5 lesser known destinations in mainland Greece
We share a handful of our favourite haunts on the Greek mainland, away from the island crowds – from mountainous vineyard villages to the sparkling Athens Riviera
One of the joys of moving to Athens has been exploring the boundless beauty of mainland Greece. While its beautiful islands – from Corfu to Kastellorizo – steal most of the tourist attention, its magnificent mainland flies somewhat under the radar. Mountainous stone villages, family-run vineyards, ancient coastline and Greece’s second city – laid-back and foodie Thessaloniki – await the traveller who dares to discover. What is more, each one has something to offer in all seasons, whether it is hiking in the Peloponnese in spring, swimming on the Riviera in summer or skiing on Mount Parnassus in winter. Here are just five places to bookmark for your next visit. For more travel inspiration, check out our guide to the best restaurants in Athens and our favourite Greek island getaways for food lovers. 5 lesser known destinations in mainland Greece 1. Athens Riviera, Attica After a city break in Athens, its Riviera is ideal for soaking up some sun and sea without hopping on a ferry to an island. Stretching from Piraeus to Cape Sounio, the Athens Riviera is dotted with low-key swimming spots and laid-back tavernas, as well as some ritzier options — such as the iconic Four Seasons Astir Palace and its much loved Taverna 37. Dive off the rocks into turquoise waters at locals’ spot Limanaki or swim in the shallows at Vouliagmeni beach. Head to Sounio to the simple fish taverna Akrogiali for calamari, octopus and grilled sardines right by the water. You will be sitting in the shadow of the ancient Temple of Poseidon, which you can easily visit afterwards. In the evenings, head to the Ace Hotel for cocktails and dinner at its restaurant, Sebastian. Where to stay: doubles at Ace Hotel from £233 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. 2. Arcadia, Peloponnese Only two and a half hours from Athens, Arcadia in the central Peloponnese is a paradise landscape for those looking to switch off – or get active. The mythical stomping ground of the mischievous god Pan, it is criss-crossed with refreshing streams, dotted with honey stone hilltop villages and covered in elato (fir trees). The place to stay is Manna, an exceptional and design-forward hotel which opened in an abandoned old sanatorium in 2023. It is the kind of place you will not want to leave, in any season, but there are plenty of good reasons to do so: hiking to the nearby village of Magouliana for a lunch of lamb cutlets cooked over fire at Taverna O Iosif; truffle and mushroom hunting in spring and autumn along the Menalon Trail; and buying moreish vanilla fir tree honey from Vytina’s many bakalekos (grocery stores). Where to stay: doubles at Manna from £202 per night, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. 3. Thessaloniki, Thessaly Greece’s second city, Thessaloniki is known for its relaxed living, youthful energy and gastronomic scene. An outpost of the Ottoman Empire until 1912, it is a meeting point of civilisations with its architecture, culture and cuisine bearing testament to this. Unlike Athens, it is set right on the water and its two-mile-long waterfront – Nea Paralia – hums with activity from walkers, cyclists and fishermen. There are far too many places to tick off in just one weekend, but Estet Cafe by Greek Palestinian chef Vasilis Chaman (also behind the wine bar Poster), Iliopetra, Ypsilon and Tiffany’s x 1905 should all be top of your list. As should a mooch around the city’s buzzing central market, Kapani, which is also home to the old-school café, Stou Mitsou. Stay at On Residence, in a grand 1930s building from Thessaloniki’s heyday, or The Modernist, a design-conscious beauty very close to the waterfront. Where to stay: doubles at On Residence from £183 per night, check availability at booking.com, hilton.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Doubles at The Modernist from £170, check availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. 4. Parnassus, central Greece Parnassus is the largest – and chicest – ski centre in Greece, where you can sometimes enjoy the slopes until the beginning of May. Whether you are skiing in winter or hiking in summer, the national park and its surrounding area make for a great excursion in central Greece and is only three hours from Athens. Stay in elegant Arachova at the Amalia Hotel, which teeters dramatically over the mountainside with beautiful valley views, before continuing to the grassy mountain plateau of Livadi, where you’ll find the family-run Agiannorema guesthouse. The latter is a pretty springboard for sporting activities and home to two brilliant tavernas, Steki and Kalyva, where you can refuel after a day on the mountain. Combine this with a visit to Delphi, which sits on the other side of Mount Parnassus. Here you can admire the 4th-century BC Temple of Apollo, once home to the legendary oracle and considered the navel of the earth by ancient Greeks. Where to stay: doubles at Amalia Hotel from £116 per night, check availability at booking.com. 5. Metsovo, Epirus In northernmost Greece, the picturesque mountain village of Metsovo sits at 1,200 metres on the slopes of Epirus’s Mount Pindus. Caught between Ioannina in the west and Meteora, the staggering rock formation, to the east, it is a landscape covered in vineyards as well as fir, oak, chestnut and cypress trees. Oenophiles will be particularly happy here – it is the home of the Averoff winery, which is renowned for bringing the first cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc vines from France to Greece in 1959 — and where you can now stay the night in its hotel as well. As well as wine tastings, there is a cheese factory to visit (where the area’s smoky metsovone is matured), the Museum of Epirus Folk Art and the Averoff Gallery, which punches above its weight with mainly contemporary Greek painters, engravers and sculptors. In winter you can ski nearby, while in summer there are glorious hiking paths, accompanied by extremely pleasant temperatures. Where to stay: doubles at Katogi Averoff Hotel & Winery from £85 per night, check availability at booking.com. More travel guides Best restaurants in Porto Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels