From matcha lattes to rhubarb and almond croissants – these are the West London hot spots that foodies need to know
Discover where to eat in west London, from elevated pub classics in Shepherd's Bush to a matcha hot spot in Hammersmith
Looking for the best places to eat in Shepherd's Bush and the surrounding area? Local resident and expert Helena Busiakiewicz shared her must-visit recommendations, from a Japanese bakery to an original London gastropub. For more London food recommendations, check out our reviews of the best restaurants in Shoreditch, best restaurants in Notting Hill, best restaurants in Mayfair, best restaurants in Marylebone and best restaurants in Paddington. The Hawthorn, Shepherd’s Bush The Hawthorn is a reasonably new addition to Sheppy B, but already a firm favourite. Its food feels a similar style to Rochelle Canteen or St John, but with pub classics such as fish and chips and a cheeseburger with fries. I maintain that a roast dinner is always better in your own home, but I make two exceptions: one for The Hawthorn, which does a great one (get the beef IMO) and one for the Anglesea Arms (see below). We had a sticky toffee pudding there that my partner has not stopped talking about since. A great spot for taking family for a leisurely meal, or equally, a cheeky pint and delicious snack. thehawthornpub.com The Anglesea Arms, Hammersmith Perhaps the best roast dinner in west London. Have a stroll around Ravenscourt Park, then, when you get chilly, slip into The Anglesea for a delicious meal. This is a tucked-away spot that is always busy, and with good reason. The menu is ever-changing, but I have often had its ham hock croquettes and squealed with glee. It has everything you could want from a pub, in my opinion! angleseaarmspub.co.uk The Hawk’s Nest, Shepherd’s Bush If you're planning a date night or girls' night out, or just fancy a great spicy marg, head to the Hawk’s Nest. It has a fully retractable roof, so is the venue for all seasons – cosy and warm in winter, then bustling and breezy in summer. Sunday to Friday, it has a fantastic £14 ‘marg and a marg’ deal, which is a lovely excuse to sip on a margarita and not have to cook my own dinner. the-hawks-nest.co.uk Mr Dumpling, Goldhawk Road This is our ‘shall we have a quick bite before the cinema’ spot – no frills, but all the flavour. You can see the chefs making dumplings in the window, which is always a good sign. The portions are generous, so share a beef noodle soup, then get wontons in chilli oil and crispy fried dumplings, and thank me later. instagram.com/mr.dumpling888 Frankie’s, Turnham Green Frankie’s is a new addition to Chiswick, and bakes some excellent pastries. It's run by bakers Jamie and Eleni, the shop having originally been a cobbler's in Eleni’s family for over 50 years. I normally eschew a cruffin, often finding them not as satisfying as having either a croissant or a muffin, but its cruffins changed my mind – perfectly balanced, not too sweet and with lovely, flaky pastry. The classic viennoiserie is excellent too, which makes sense, as both Jamie and Eleni note that their favourite thing to bake are croissants. I’ve been delighted by everything I’ve had from Frankie’s. Plus, the coffee is smooth, strong and very reasonably priced. I don’t know the last time I paid £3 for an oat flat white anywhere else. instagram.com/frankiesbakerylondon Konveni Matcha, Hammersmith Konveni will always have a place in my heart. It's a family run spot offering some of the best matcha in London – one for hardcore matcha lovers and newbies alike, as it offers different matcha grades, so you can get authentic, traditional matcha, or flavours such as strawberry, mango, ube and sticky date. I love the iced Spanish matcha latte – a touch of condensed milk is just enough to offset a little of that classic bitterness. It does great ube and matcha soft serve ice cream in the summer, too. instagram.com/konvenimatcha 101 Thai Kitchen, Hammersmith I am always craving 101 Thai Kitchen – I have a personal mission to eat my way through the menu, and I’ve made a strong start. Some of my favourites are the tom kha soup – which is very healing during a hangover – and the mini-menu of som tum salad (I love the addition of soft shell crab in the tum pu nim). Make sure you get a Thai iced tea to cool down, too. In summer, the mango sticky rice is worth the trip alone. 101thaikitchen.uk Burnt, Askew Road This is my go-to brunch spot. It does fantastic coffee and has a seasonally changing menu with exciting additions – though you can always get some impeccably done classics made with quality ingredients. The scrambled St Ewe eggs with a side of Maldon deep smoked salmon is divine. It has a great range of sandwiches and pastries for takeaway, too – the forced rhubarb and almond croissants are something I look forward to every January. In warmer weather, it has a private garden that opens for alfresco lunches. It is always busy though, so make sure you book ahead – it's open on Friday evenings for small plates and wine, too. burntrestaurant.co.uk Happy Sky Bakery, Askew Road This Japanese bakery is full of the most delicious pastries and breads, from melon pan and adzuki bean buns to teriyaki chicken and mochi matcha custard pastries – there's something for everyone. This is a takeaway-only spot and it sells out fast, so go early, load up your tray and take it to nearby Wendell Park for scoffing on a park bench. happyskylondon.com Check out more London restaurant guides here: Best restaurants in London Bridge Best restaurants in Notting Hill Best restaurants in Soho Best restaurants in Marylebone Best restaurants in Mayfair Best restaurants in Brixton Best restaurants in Fitzrovia Best restaurants near Oxford Street Best restaurants in Shoreditch Best restaurants in Covent Garden Best restaurants in Hackney Best restaurants in Paddington Best restaurants in Camden
Try our matcha cheesecake with ube swirl. Ube is a purple yam that features in Filipino desserts and sweets. It has a subtle vanilla-like flavour and pairs well with the earthiness of the matcha.
Try our matcha cheesecake with ube swirl, then discover almond cake, matcha crêpe cake and matcha cupcakes. Check out our trend spotlight on matcha for more matcha recipes and the best matcha spots in London. Ube is a purple yam that features heavily in Filipino desserts and sweets, such as halo-halo – a mixture of sweetened fruits, beans, ice cream, jelly and ube halaya, which is a creamy ube spread. It has a subtle vanilla-like flavour and pairs well with the earthiness of the matcha. This cheesecake is inspired by Konveni Matcha Café in London, which makes a fantastic ube and matcha soft serve ice cream. Matcha is a Japanese green tea powder. It has deep cultural significance in Japan and is traditionally celebrated in tea ceremonies. It’s also now widely enjoyed in many forms around the world – these recipes highlight its earthy, grassy flavour and vivid colour. Matcha cheesecake with ube swirl recipe
This is a speedy dessert to finish off a dinner party. Serve with shortbreads for scooping.
Try our matchagato, then discover affogato chocolate mousse and Irish coffee affogato. Check out our trend spotlight on matcha for more matcha recipes and the best matcha spots in London. Matcha is a Japanese green tea powder. It has deep cultural significance in Japan and is traditionally celebrated in tea ceremonies. It’s also now widely enjoyed in many forms around the world – these recipes highlight its earthy, grassy flavour and vivid colour. Matchagato recipe
Matcha, white chocolate and nuts are a classic cookie combo. We’ve used marcona almonds for their buttery flavour and creamy texture.
These matcha white chocolate cookies need to chill for a couple of hours, so do take that into account before you start. Matcha is a Japanese green tea powder. It has deep cultural significance in Japan and is traditionally celebrated in tea ceremonies. It’s also now widely enjoyed in many forms around the world – these recipes highlight its earthy, grassy flavour and vivid colour. Try our matcha, white chocolate and marcona almond cookies, then discover almond cake, matcha crêpe cake and matcha cupcakes. Check out our trend spotlight on matcha for more matcha recipes and the best matcha spots in London. Matcha cookies recipe
This is called a skillet cake as it’s made in a cast-iron skillet pan but it can be easily made in a cake tin if you prefer. The batter can be reused across the seasons with peaches, rhubarb or summer berries
Try our plum, hazelnut and polenta skillet cake, then discover plum cake, blackberry cake, fig cake, pear cake, plum jam, plum crumble and more plum recipes. Plum, hazelnut and polenta skillet cake recipe
Braised Italian sausages with peppers, fennel and creamy parmesan polenta
It’s worth seeking out big, high-quality sausages as they are the star of the show here. You could switch out the basil for parsley or tarragon, if you prefer
Try our braised Italian sausages with peppers, fennel and creamy parmesan polenta, then discover sausage, spinach and chilli pasta, stuffed sausage pasta bake, crispy sausage orecchiette, or sausage pasta with broccoli. Braised Italian sausages with peppers, fennel and creamy parmesan polenta recipe
Polenta bites with caramelised onion and gruyère
These make a great snack to serve with drinks. You could top the polenta bites with anything you like – parma ham and dolcelatte would work nicely, or brie and chilli jam
Try our polenta bites with caramelised onion and gruyère, then discover crispy polenta halloumi with tomatillo salsa, balsamic braised beef with cheesy polenta and more polenta recipes. Polenta bites with caramelised onion and gruyère recipe
Walnut, anchovy, chard and goat’s cheese pasta
Using goat’s cheese to create the creamy sauce brings a lovely tang to this pasta dish
Try our walnut, anchovy, chard and goat’s cheese pasta, then discover spinach pasta, vegetable pasta bake, broccoli pasta bake and baked feta pasta. If you’re not a fan of goat's cheese, you could substitute in finely grated parmesan instead. Walnut, anchovy, chard and goat’s cheese pasta recipe
Brown butter, walnut and caramelised white chocolate cookies
This technique of toasting the nuts in butter creates a fantastic toasted nut flavour that you can taste through the whole cookie
Try our brown butter, walnut and caramelised white chocolate cookies, then discover more cookie recipes, such as our classic chocolate chip cookies, triple chocolate chip cookies, healthy cookies and our edible cookie dough. The dough needs to rest overnight before baking, so plan accordingly. These cookies freeze well – once formed into balls, put in a freezer bag or airtight container and freeze for up to three months. Brown butter, walnut and caramelised white chocolate cookies recipe
Cumin-roasted carrots and bulgur salad with sticky spiced walnuts and feta
This is a lovely salad to serve alongside some grilled lamb or fish but is also excellent for meal prep if you want to get ahead
Try our cumin-roasted carrots and bulgur salad with sticky spiced walnuts and feta, then discover our best quinoa recipes, couscous recipes, recipes with semolina, fried rice recipes and easy lentil recipes for more inspiration. Cook’s tip: Boost your plant points "Use a mixture of grains to increase the plant points of this dish. For a fully plant-based version, I used vegan feta - but you could equally use marinated tofu for an additional plant point." View Green Video on the source website Note these changes to the recipe will alter the nutritional information displayed. Here are more ways to boost your plant points and plant-packed recipes. Cumin-roasted carrots and bulgur salad with sticky spiced walnuts and feta recipe
This is a delicious, speedy dessert that is zesty and zingy. Serve with extra ginger biscuits for scooping, if you like
Try our marmalade and ginger fool, then check out our grapefruit marmalade, marmalade cake, marmalade chicken and more marmalade recipes. Then check out our christmas desserts recipes Marmalade and ginger fool recipe
The marmalade in this glaze makes them sticky and bittersweet – have plenty of napkins at the ready!
Try our sticky chilli marmalade ribs, barbecue-style pork ribs, sticky Chinese ribs and lamb ribs, or our grapefruit marmalade, marmalade cake, marmalade chicken and more marmalade recipes. Sticky chilli marmalade ribs recipe
Jazz up your next upside-down cake with bittersweet marmalade, yogurt and plenty of fresh orange zest
Try our marmalade upside-down cake, then check out our grapefruit marmalade, marmalade cake, marmalade chicken and more marmalade recipes. Marmalade upside-down cake recipe
Cauliflower, cheddar and Marmite soup with cheesy Marmite croutons
This is a comforting soup packed with umami flavour. Homemade Marmite croutons make all the difference, so don't miss them out!
Try our Marmite soup with cheesy Marmite croutons, then discover Marmite-glazed sandwich, Marmite pasta carbonara, rich beef pie with cheesy Marmite cobbler crust or cheese and Marmite flapjacks. Cauliflower, cheffar and Marmite soup with cheesy Marmite croutons
These are great for levelling up lunchboxes, packed full of your favourite sandwich fillings
Try our cheese and Marmite rolls, then discover our Marmite-glazed sandwich, Marmite pasta carbonara, rich beef pie with cheesy Marmite cobbler crust or cheese and Marmite flapjacks. Cheese and Marmite rolls recipe
Using the grill means you can make a few croques at a time – ideal for feeding a crowd
Try our croque madame with Marmite, then discover our Marmite-glazed sandwich, Marmite pasta carbonara, rich beef pie with cheesy Marmite cobbler crust or cheese and Marmite flapjacks. Croque Marmite recipe
Austria’s capital caters to both traditionalists and modernists with bistros, wine bars, cafés and schnitzel restaurants
Looking for where to eat in Vienna? We share insider tips for the best restaurants in the Austrian capital, along with where to find old-world cafés, hot dogs and secret bars in the cobbled backstreets and grand avenues. Best places to eat and drink in Vienna Café Ährlich – for farm to table brunch Café Ährlich is the ultimate farm to table brunch spot. Interiors feel Scandi in design but warm in mood with friendly staff, plus the scent of freshly baked bread in the air. Dishes are made with produce that is grown on the restaurant's farm in Innviertel, a region in Northwestern Austria. The flavours are clean and simple, allowing the freshness of the produce to shine. Try the Innviertel breakfast, a breakfast plate with house-made rolls, a soft-boiled egg, salami from their pigs and home-made blackcurrant jam. Plus, there are fantastic sourdough and pastries too. aehrlich.at Café Vollpension – for heartwarming, home-made food Vollpension is a spot to warm your heart and your belly. It describes itself as ‘Granny’s public living room’ and that is exactly how it feels. The café is run not only to provide delicious meals, but to promote connection between the generations, help end old-age poverty and reduce loneliness. The café is staffed by the young and old, with the older staff all working after their retirement age. They also cook their own recipes for all the delicious treats on the counter, which you can watch as you order. Take your token to the cake counter and exchange it for a slice of sachertorte, strudel or apple tiramisu, to name a few, all served with a generous dollop of whipped cream. We loved the buchteln, a fluffy yeasted roll stuffed with plum jam, sat in a bowl of warm crème anglaise. Kitschy interiors with lots of cute frames of furry friends make the cosy vibe even nicer. vollpension.wien Wiener Würstelstand – for the best street food Sausages are a big deal in Vienna, so much so that sausage stands in Vienna have UNESCO cultural heritage status. There are many independent sausage stands across the city, but our favourite was at Wiener Würstelstand. You can spot the bright orange font on stands across the city. A must order is a Käserkreiner, a lightly smoked sausage with chunks of cheese inside. Make sure you know your answer to the question ‘sweet or spicy?’ as they’re referring to the mustard you want with your dog. We think the answer is both! wien.info Café Sperl – for coffee in historic surroundings This spot is a Viennese institution, open since 1880, so is soaked in history. Waiters bustle about in traditional black and white uniform, serving classics such as Einspänner, a strong espresso topped with whipped cream, and fiaker, a strong coffee spiked with rum. Have a slice of cake with your coffee from the cake trolley, with all the Viennese offerings, such as strudel, sachertorte or marillenfleck (apricot cake). There's a strong savoury menu too, including rindsuppe mit frittaten, a style of beef soup with thinly sliced pancakes. There is a huge billiards table and live piano on Sundays from 3.30pm. You’ll come away feeling like you’ve sipped coffee in a historical landmark! cafesperl.at/en &Flora – for veggie-forward cooking &Flora offers veggie-forward plates in relaxing interiors. Located in the very chic Hotel Gilbert, the staff are attentive and friendly, making you feel like a guest even if you’re just stopping by. Start with the house-made focaccia and a pickle plate. Soft, salty and dripping with good-quality olive oil, this is the perfect start to the meal. The pickles are crunchy and fresh, the perfect acidic bite to get your mouth watering. The plates lean mainly veggie, with a few meatier options scattered throughout. Standouts include charred pointed cabbage with tahini and chilli crunch, XO beef tartare with furikake and pickled cabbage and trout crudo with snow peas and pickled elderflower. undflora.at Hans & Fritz – for picturesque Austrian vineyards A short 30-minute car ride from central Vienna takes you to some of the most picturesque vineyards you could possibly see. With stunning views over Vienna, Hans & Fritz offers Austrian wine and seasonal plates with atmosphere to match. Sit in the vineyards overlooking the grapes growing while sampling the finished product. There's a whole host of wines to choose from, both by the bottle and the glass. Pair with great breads, charcuterie, pâté and cheeses to nibble alongside. This is the perfect spot to take a date, though do be warned – the hill to get there is very steep! hansundfritz.at Mochi – for Austro-Japanese fusion Start your meal at this Austro-Japanese izakaya, with a refreshing spritz (yuzu sake, frizzante and mint) or a hot sake. Then, perch at the wooden bar to watch bandana-clad chefs preparing sushi and small plates – “special rolls” include My Best Friend, a parcel of tempura leek, salmon sashimi and miso teriyaki sauce. Skewers from the grill include pork belly and chicken skin while Mochi’s small plates line-up features crispy karaage chicken and minced pork tan tan salad in chilli teriyaki. And don’t miss the tempura prawns on crunchy lettuce with chilli mayo and yuzu truffle dressing. mochi.at Café Ansari – for Georgian cuisine A duck egg-blue counter, jade green walls and lace lampshades create a warm and welcoming vibe at Café Ansari. The owners’ Georgian/Lebanese heritage is reflected in brunch options such as khachapuri bread oozing with cheese and platters of hummus, labneh, cheese and sumac-sprinkled cherry tomatoes. Traditionalists are catered for, too, with homemade apricot jam to spread over fresh rolls and croissants. To go with your choice, order homemade lemon balm and lavender lemonade (served in vintage carafes) or pick from the café’s list of unusual Georgian wines. cafeansari.at Kleines Café – for traditional Viennese vibes Leave your smartphone at the pale green door here and chat with the artsy regulars inside. Living up to its name this tiny mirror-lined space, with its worn leather banquettes and wooden chairs, has long been a bohemian haunt. A charming waiter weaves his way around, taking orders for traditional Viennese coffees (try an Einspänner – espresso with cream top, a mélange – espresso with hot water and frothy milk, or a Kleiner Brauner – espresso with milk on the side) and Austrian house wine. Franziskanerplatz 3 Karmelitermarkt – for farmers market shopping Seek out up-and-coming Karmelitermarkt, where Monday through Saturday, the cobbled square transforms into a farmer’s market and colourful kiosks contrast with the ancient buildings that surround them. Grab breakfast at one of the neighbouring cafés then shop for flowers, organic veg and Burgenland honey. Leopoldgasse Felzl – for Austrian bakes Whether you’re after a rustic loaf, a sandwich or a pastry, Felzl puts an Austrian stamp on its menu of Mediterranean bakes – crustily precise French baguettes, apple tarts made with North Austrian apples, and richly chocolated bundt cakes. There are even two bread-vending machines so, if you get a carb craving late at night, you can pick up a loaf after-hours. felzl.at Bitzinger – for hot dogs The city’s Bitzinger sausage stand is equally popular among selfie-snapping tourists and tux-clad opera-goers. It’s a slick but friendly operation. Order snacks such as käsekreiner (sliced cheese-studded sausage) and you’ll be served speedily, and with a smile. bitzinger-wien.at Krypt – for cocktails In-the-know locals cram into this subterranean speakeasy for killer cocktails. Prop up the walnut-topped, black marble bar and choose between a Mexican Massage (with plenty of tequila, lime and jalapeño) or rum-based Pineapple Express. Then, take your drink into a brick-lined alcove and challenge your companion to a game of shuffleboard, or peruse the surrounding art Krypt also sells itself as Vienna’s smallest gallery. krypt.bar Weinschenke – for burgers This burger joint has several locations across the city. Once you’ve finished shopping at the farmer’s market (see above) head to the Karmelitermarkt outpost and sip a glass of Austrian wine or a citrussy Austrian Amber Ale while you plough through a Wild Guy (beef patty, cheddar, bacon, egg, japapenos, red onions and smoky BBQ sauce) or a Vito (wild boar burger with sherry pepper sauce, herbs and red cabbage). The beef comes from a local butcher while the wild boar is hunted from the Waldviertel woods in northern Austria. weinschenke-wien.com Phil – for lazy afternoons This cool and quirky cafe, with its funky retro furniture, is the place to head to if you want to combine coffee culture and book culture. There’s no time pressure at this café-cum-bookstore, so order a mélange (espresso, hot water, frothy milk) and a slice of vegan carrot cake and take your time browsing the well-stocked bookshelves. phil.info Jonas Reindl – for a hip coffee hangout This speciality brewspot is one of the city’s most popular third-wave coffee shops. Coffee aficionados come to the pared-back space to gather over flat whites and cortados; the drinks are made using espresso from Barn in Berlin and a chocolate-y Nicaraguan house blend with nougat and almond notes. Apple cake, streusel and decadent chocolate cake sit temptingly under glass domes for those who fancy a sweet treat to accompany their coffee. jonasreindl.at Naschmarkt Doing a brisk trade in fruit and veg since 1793, the Naschmarkt’s stalls brim with everything from glossy olives and Asian spices to Alpine cheeses and Austrian wines. Go for a morning stroll before a bumper breakfast of omelette-topped bagels and fresh-pressed juice at Naschmarkt Deli. Pick up a bag of freshly roasted Alt Wiener Gold coffee, at Alt Wien. An unassuming-looking coffee shop nearbt, it does an expert line in fair-trade and organic blends. altwien.at Henzls Ernte Stop by Henzls Ernte for deli goods made with fruit, herbs and spices grown or foraged by the owners. Their pepped-up sugars and salts and nettle and wild garlic pesto are especially worth seeking out. henzls.at Café Central Freud and Trotsky famously enjoyed the marble splendour of Café Central. Black-vested waiters have been serving a slice of old-world Viennese decadence to visitors in this palatial coffee house since 1876. Try the linger over apple strudel, which flakes just so, and speciality coffees such as Maria Theresia, an orange liqueur-laced double espresso topped with whipped cream. Trzesniewski This small chain has the open sandwich down to a fine art. Try toppings such as crab and egg, pickled herring and onions and wild paprika. A couple of bites and they're gone, so order a few. trzesniewski.at Best hotels for foodies in Vienna Hotel Gilbert A stone’s throw from the trendy MuseumsQuartier, Hotel Gilbert is a fantastic base for a city break. The hotel is chicly decorated with comfortable rooms and cosy beds. There is sustainability at the forefront of thinking, with refillable toiletry bottles in the rooms and air-con that only runs from 27c. If you’re a food lover, this is the hotel for you. &Flora is the restaurant within the hotel, offering veggie-centric small plates with middle Eastern influences. The breakfast buffet is a huge spread of pickles, hot items, cereals, breads, dips, fruits and vegetables. There's a gym and sauna plus bike rentals for exploring the city. And when you’re done, you can head to the bar for ‘wine time’ with a complimentary glass of wine each evening. Rooms start at £126 a night, check availability at hotel-gilbert.at/en or booking.com Grand Ferdinand Hotel Enter this plush hotel via its statement lobby (go easy past the life-size horse statue) and check into one of its moodily minimal bedrooms. Then, follow your stomach and either swing up to the Grand Etage restaurant, with its panoramic views over the city, or swerve into the hotel’s dedicated schnitzel joint, Meissl & Schadn. The top-floor Grand Etage sits beside a large terrace and lap pool but we recommend heading up at breakfast and loading your plate with Austrian sausages, pickled fish and typical bakes and eating them from the comfort of a floral-patterned armchair looking out across gilded rooftops, intricate domes and palaces. At Meissl & Schadn, on the other hand, peer past the ‘Schnitzel Love’ sign in the window and watch, mesmerized, white apron-clad chefs prepare traditional Viennese schnitzel beneath an extravagant chandelier. Veal is bashed, dipped in breadcrumbs and fried in your choice of lard, pork dripping or vegetable oil to create a frilly, golden crumb. For the full experience, book-end your main course with a shrimp cocktail to start and an apple strudel to finish. Check availability at grandferdinand.com or booking.com The Guesthouse With the help of Terence Conran this former youth hostel, on the same square as the Vienna Opera House, is now a sleek, design hotel. One of its best features is an award-winning wood-stove bakery so expect the very best Viennese pastries for breakfast. Glittering palaces, classical music and exceptional art make Vienna ideal for a grown-up weekend away. Foodies can sign up to a cooking class with Bianca, a locally-run workshop that takes you straight into the world of Austrian cuisine; shop at the market before returning to the kitchen to learn how to prepare paprika chicken stew, spaetzli (dumplings) with salad and proper apple strudel before sitting down to enjoy the feast. Check availability at theguesthouse.at or booking.com First written by Kerry Christiani in 2013, updated by Alex Crossley in 2019 and by Helena Busiakiewicz in 2025 Photographs: Meierei, Sandra Raccanello /SIME/4Corners, Reinhard Schmid/4Corners, Helen Cathcart/Lonely Planet Traveller Magazine
Why I love Puerto Rico, the island with over 1,000 tropical fruits to try
Martin Louzao, head chef of Cocina Abierta, shares the highlights of Puerto Rican cuisine and culture from his island homeland
Learn all about what makes the cuisine of Puerto Rico so special, from an abundance of tropical fruits to Caribbean lobster and fresh fish. Plus, we share where to eat and where to stay whilst you're in Puerto Rico. For more deep-dives into global cuisines, check out our guides to the South Tyrol, Grenada, South Africa and Mumbai. Jump to: 10 things we love about Puerto Rico Where to eat and drink in Puerto Rico Where to stay in Puerto Rico 10 things we love about Puerto Rico Tropical fruits Over 1,000 exotic fruits grow here, guava is the most popular currently. Everything is guava flavoured, from cocktails to energy drinks. You can find it in a paste, for eating with cheese and crackers or even adding to toasted sandwiches. It is also reported to be a fantastic hangover cure! Jueyes (crab) alcapurria Alcapurria are a filled fritter with a dough made from plantain and taro. They’re usually filled with ground pork, but the crab ones are delicious, filled with a rich sauce and chunky pieces of crab. I love alcapurria de jueyes because it connects me to the past, to a pre-industrial time when people cooked with honest, local ingredients. Traditional Christmas food Christmas is a hugely important time in Puerto Rico. We make pasteles, which are similar to a tamale, but made with green plantain and cassava. We fill them with roasted pork with sofrito, which is a flavour base for our cooking. It is made of onions, sweet peppers, garlic, tomatoes and coriander, though every family has its own version. Christmas is special to me because It’s a bit of flavour mixed with nostalgia—food evokes memories, and those from the holiday season here are the most beautiful. Fresh fish In Puerto Rico, commercial fishing is artisanal, regulated, and there are around 170 species in our underwater ecosystems. From mahi-mahi, snook, yellow-fin tuna to dorado. They can be prepared in all manner of ways, from bacalao (salted fish) to ceviche or carpaccio. At Cocina Abierta, we roast snook in our wood-oven and serve with a coconut ‘beurre blanc’; it is one of our favourites. Caribbean lobster Caribbean lobster, sometimes called spiny lobsters, are a species of lobster that have a firmer textured meat than Atlantic lobsters. We serve them with a chilli crisp which is a winning combination. The waterfalls in El Yunque Puerto Rico has diverse landscapes – of course we are famous for our beautiful beaches, but we also have mountains, and a rainforest, El Yunque. It has 29,000 acres of lush greenery and three large waterfalls. There is nothing better than standing underneath a waterfall on some of our hottest days. Sunset in Rincón Rincón is a fantastic town on the west coast of the island that has amazing beaches and a thriving surfing scene. The sunsets are some of the best in the world. If you’re into surfing, make sure you check out María’s beach. In the winter it hosts pro-surfing events and in the summer, it has a more relaxed vibe. Bar hopping in Old San Juan Puerto Ricans know how to party! There is a bustling nightlife scene in Old San Juan, with plenty of drinks and dancing. There’s something for everyone; I like heading to La Factoría for cocktails, grabbing a quick bite at Caleta, and jazz and mezcal cocktails at La Grieta. Mangrove forests in Piñones The mangrove forests in Piñones are the biggest network of natural mangroves in Puerto Rico – it really is an ecological paradise. Follow a trail through the mangroves near the reefs where you can spot wildlife such as sea turtles, crabs and all varieties of birds. Pack a cooler full of alcapurrias and oysters to enjoy at the end. Attending a Bomba event Bomba is the traditional dance of Puerto Rico, blending the three cultural heritages of PR; African, Spanish & Taino. Taino are the indigenous people of Puerto Rico. The dance is a lively call and response style between a drummer and a dancer. The events are full of joy and celebration. It is definitely worth seeing a performance. Where to eat and drink in Puerto Rico Café Cuatro Sombras This micro-roastery is an interactive coffee where you can see the machines going as you sip. As well as spectacular coffee there’s a small menu, including a must-try grilled ham and cheese croissant with guava jam. cuatrosombras.com Choco Bar Cortés This café is devoted to all things chocolate and has an impactful social history. In 1902, the US banned the teaching of Spanish in schools, so comic strips in the wrappers of the chocolate bars helped teach young Puerto Rican’s how to read their language. It still offers traditional hot chocolate served with a piece of cheddar cheese. Don’t knock it until you try it! chocobarcortes.com Cocina Abierta Chef Martin’s restaurant is an absolute masterclass in Puerto Rican flavour and the duck mofongo is a must-try. This was one of the first restaurants to re-open after hurricane Maria, where they rallied together and fed their local community. cocinaabierta.net La Faena Head chef Kevin Garcia centres on local and seasonal ingredients. The restaurant collaborates with farmers all over the island, favouring the locally grown over imported ingredients. The result is a fresh, exciting menu in a relaxed atmosphere. instagram.com/lafaena.pr Frutos del Guacabo This is a small but mighty farm focussing on hydroponics and sustainable farming. In guided tours you can sample all the things the farm has to offer, including milking a goat. They grow everything from mangoes, chillies, pomegranates, lime leaves, microherbs, all supplying local restaurants and communities. frutosdelguacabo.com Flavors Food Tours Flavors Food Tours offers an in-depth and delicious food tour away from the classic tourist spots of San Juan, peppered with samples such as ceviche, Puerto Rican coffee and pure fruit ice lollies, as well as snippets of social and cultural history. sanjuanfoodtours.com Sofrito Tours If you’re exploring the island, Sofrito tours, named after the staple Puerto Rican ingredient, will show you some of the best food off the beaten track. I loved the circular alcapurrias at Sazón de Sylvia. You can pick a side of the island to explore in depth and Laura will tailor the tour to you. If you choose the northeast of the island, you might get lucky and see the manatees at Loiza. sofritotourspr.wordpress.com Hacienda tres angeles Up in the mountains of Puerto Rico resides the most idyllic coffee hacienda. This family-run coffee farm is surrounded by incredible views and run by lovely, knowledgeable people. Seeing the ‘bean to cup’ experience really makes you appreciate the coffee we rely on every day! haciendatresangeles.com Casa Bacardí The piña colada was originated in Puerto Rico, although there is still debate as to where; (either the Caribe Hilton or Barrachina). Visiting the Bacardi distilleries is a lot of fun. You can have a tour, take part in a mixology class or just sip on their wide cocktail selection. bacardi.com/casa-bacardi Where to stay in Puerto Rico Aire de Olive A stone’s throw from some of the most stunning beaches, Aire de Olive offers a luxury, laid-back, bohemian vibe. The 80-room hotel gives a more personal feel and you're very much encouraged to view it as a home away from home. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, furnished with sustainable materials such as wood, rattan and cotton, and use low-energy lightbulbs, many with a sea-view. There are two great spots to eat, head to the rooftop bar for KUMO, offering relaxed fare such as burrata and wagyu sliders, or to AWWA, the raw bar, for dishes such as sashimi with passionfruit – an omakase with Puerto Rican touches throughout. There is a rooftop pool for relaxing with one of the many cocktails from the menu, or walk the 30 seconds to the beach for a dip in the sea, where they provide you sun loungers and towels. It's very close to the airport, too, which is very handy. Rooms start from £300 a night, check availability at booking.com or airedeolive.com More cuisine guides Fez cuisine: 10 things we love Puglian cuisine: 10 things we love Andalusian cuisine: 10 things we love Jamaican cuisine: 10 things we love Georgian cuisine: 10 things we love Colombian cuisine: 10 things we love The Algarve's cuisine: 10 things we love Thai cuisine: 10 things we love South Korean cuisine: 10 things we love Nashville cuisine: 10 things we love Norwegian cuisine: 10 things we love Tuscan cuisine: 10 things we love Cork cuisine: 10 things we love Northern Ireland cuisine: 10 things we love Finland cuisine: 10 things we love
This is a great fakeaway-style dish – use half a chilli if you prefer it less spicy
Try our honey-glazed chicken, then discover crispy chicken with harissa honey butter, honey-masala spatchcock chicken, lettuce wraps with sticky chicken or ras el hanout and honey BBQ chicken thighs. Honey-glazed chicken recipe
This is a take on the viral honey butter toast from Arôme bakery – it’s great as a speedy snack or part of a breakfast spread
Try our honey butter toast, then discover halloumi toastie with harissa and honey, brie, ham and honey-pickled pear toastie or sticky honey cakes. Honey butter toast recipe
Put that jar of set honey to good use in this aromatic ice cream recipe, made with just four ingredients (and no need for an ice cream machine)
Try our honey and lime ice cream, then discover double honey ice cream, maple honeycomb ice cream, nutmeg ice cream or vanilla ice cream with warm chocolate sauce. Honey and lime ice cream recipe
Best restaurants in Chinatown: where to eat and drink
Check out our list of the best places to eat and drink in Chinatown London, from dumplings to duck, cocktails to chicken
Looking for Chinatown restaurants? Here are our favourite places to eat and drink in Chinatown in London. We've found the best dumplings restaurants in Chinatown, along with hidden cocktail bars and Asian street food. We've also visited some of Chinatown's best restaurants for Malaysian, Chinese, Taiwanese and Szechuan cuisine. For more London restaurant guides, check out our picks of the best Italian restaurants in London and best London pubs with great food. Best restaurants in Chinatown Chinatown Bakery – best bakery in Chinatown Situated right next to the Chinatown gate, this is the perfect spot for a baked treat. Grab a plastic tray and load it up with one of everything, from the soft and delicate pandan cake with its pastel green hue, to Hello Kitty mooncakes filled with salted egg yolk (the salty and sweet combo is wonderful). If you’re more of a savoury person, the chicken and pork floss buns are excellent. Of course, you can get the famous taiyaki fish-shaped treats, filled with everything from red bean paste to ice cream or Nutella. There’s also a branch round the corner on Newport Place, so you’re never too far from these delicious baked goods. Good Friend – for fried chicken Chinatown’s fried chicken joint has a Taiwanese twist. Queue up at this small takeaway for fried-to-order pieces of chicken in a variety of shapes and sizes. The owners brought their oven over from Taiwan to ensure authenticity, and the chicken is cooked in the oven then fried at two different temperatures to make extra juicy and tender. The ultimate crumb is achieved by tossing the chicken in three different flours before frying, making this the one of the crunchiest fried chickens we’ve tasted. Pimp your snack with a sprinkling of one or a mixture of seven seasonings – Thai spice, salt and pepper, chilli, or the more unusual but popular plum. 14 Little Newport Street, Chinatown London Pochawa Grill – for Korean food This Korean BBQ spot is a great place to take groups of friends for an interactive eating experience, but it is still excellent if you don’t fancy firing up the grill. If you do then you can choose from delicious bulgogi (thin beef slices marinated in sweet soy sauce), pork belly, tongue and short ribs with spicy gochujang, chilli and garlic to serve once it’s been grilled to perfection. In traditional Korean style, anything you order will come with a selection of banchan, which are a variety of small side dishes which are full of flavour and texture. The cheese kimchi jeon is funky, salty and oozing with cheese. Not to miss are the bowls of bibimbap, which are fresh and full of texture. There is also a great selection of cocktails made with the rice liquor soju. They don’t take reservations for eating, so get there early to avoid the queues. Pochawa Grill does take bookings for karaoke downstairs, if you’re looking for both dinner and entertainment. pochawagrill.com Dumplings Legend – for dumplings This large Cantonese restaurant lives up to its name, making approximately 8,000 dumplings a day. With 27 dim sum varieties to choose from, the menu can be overwhelming, but peer into the glass-fronted dedicated dumpling station to watch chefs roll out, fill and weave together intricate little parcels. Take your pick from comet-shaped prawn wontons, tightly-packed juicy sui mai garnished with cod’s roe, and plump steamed prawn dumplings. There are eight varieties of xiu loung bao soup dumplings (spicy pork, pork and crab, veggie to name a few), and there’s even a guide to eating these slippery little mouthfuls alongside the menu. The fragrant meaty stock liquefies in the steamer and then bursts out of its case, so be careful not to burn your mouth. 15-16 Gerrard Street, Chinatown London Golden Phoenix – for Chinese classics Every establishment in Chinatown has a remarkable diasporic story to tell and Golden Phoenix – right in the heart of Gerrard Street – has one that spans generations. Today it’s Maria Lai Lentz who oversees things – the daughter of the original owner, who established the restaurant over 30 years ago after arriving in London from Hong Kong. He was one of the original Chinatown pioneers but sadly passed away during Covid. Today, their handmade dim sum, Cantonese style roast duck, and congees are amongst some of the best around. Try the crab, scallop and pumpkin dumplings, the BBQ pork puff pastries, or the deep-fried prawn dumplings served with salad cream! goldenphoenixchinatown.co.uk KOVA – for Japanese patisserie Kova is the master of delicate Japanese patisserie and especially famous for its mille crêpe cakes. These are elegant cakes made from layers of thin crêpes with cream fillings, in flavours such as earl grey, matcha, taro and Oreo. The matcha flavour is delicately balanced with a good level of sweetness. It also offers shokupan bread – a fluffy type of Japanese milk bread – and bubble tea to wash it all down. kovapatisserie.com Bun House – for a sweet treat The salted egg yolk custard buns at Bun House are famous for a reason. They are filled to the brim with a salted egg yolk custard, which oozes out when you bite it, so handle with caution! The kaya toast is an absolute highlight – kaya is a coconut spread, which is sweet and caramelly. The flavour is balanced with the floral lightness of the jasmine clotted cream. The savoury options are extensive, too, if you wanted to make a meal out of it. bun.house Tsujiri – for matcha These guys really know their matcha. Serving ceremonial-grade matcha with a variety of flavour add-ons and milk choices, you can tailor your drink to suit you. Tsujiri also does a variety of desserts, such as soft serve, sundaes and shaved ice, all with matcha at the forefront. If you’re getting into matcha, why not try it with strawberry or red bean, for a sweeter intro to the drink. tsujiri.co.uk Viet Lounge – for cocktails Fans of speakeasy-style bars should check out Viet Lounge, a slinky drinks den tucked away on the third floor of Viet Food. Here, mixologist Alex Loois (The Dorchester, Park Chinois and Hakkasan) uses ingredient such as yuzu and szechuan pepper to create syrups and cordials for his drinks. Enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail or two (try the Hakuna Matata, made with homemade yuzu syrup, limoncello, lemon curd and champagne) before heading downstairs to the restaurant to feast on head chef Jeff Tan's Vietnamese dishes, from slow-cooked phos to octopus salsa and seafood pancakes. 34-36 Wardour Street, Chinatown YiQi – for pan-Asian dishes YiQi, which translates to ‘together’ in Mandarin, is the latest addition to an ever-evolving London Chinatown with a focus on dishes hand-picked from across Southeast Asia. At the helm is executive chef Stanley Lum Wah Cheok, who was formerly chef de cuisine at Hakkasan Group, the first Chinese restaurant to be given a Michelin star. Set over two floors with sleek, contemporary décor – including a wall made entirely of abacuses – the 80-cover restaurant adds a modern spark to an area that is famed for upholding traditions and, in the process, might create new ones of its own. yiqipanasia.co.uk 14 Lisle Street, Chinatown C&R Café – for laksa Hidden away down a narrow side street, this no-frills Malaysian restaurant has somewhat of a cult following for its laksa, a spicy, sumptuous noodle soup (C&R offers two regional variations, sour assam laksa and sweeter, coconut-milk-based Singapore laksa). You can also find other Malaysian classics on the menu, including Hainanese poached chicken with rice, nasi lemak (rice cooked in coconut milk with dried anchovies, peanuts, boiled eggs, sambal and chicken curry) and roti canai (flaky, buttery flatbreads). cnrcaferestaurant.com 4-5 Rupert Court, Chinatown Shu Xiangge – for hot pot Hugely popular in China, hot pot is as it sounds: a pot of broth bubbles away on a burner in the middle of a table, and diners (carefully) toss in raw ingredients to cook and eat. Shu Xiangge specialises in the fiery Szechuan style – chilli-laced broths (with numbing szechuanese peppercorns, to balance the heat), although gentler options are also available for the heat-averse. Perfect for groups, order a selection of finely sliced raw meat and fish, tofu and vegetables (offal fans should try the more traditional offerings, which include the likes of tripe, brains and aorta) and get cooking. shuxiangge.uk 43 New Oxford Street, Chinatown Jinli – for Szechuanese food Spice lovers should make a beeline to this much-garlanded restaurant for its hyper-local take on Szechuanese cuisine. Focussing on the dishes of Chengdu (the capital of Sichuan province), Jinli is named after a thoroughfare in the city famous for its street-food dishes. Discover a wealth of well-executed regional classics (and some interesting twists), from grilled cumin-spiked lamb to blistered, stir-fried green beans with minced pork and sour and spicy braised aubergines. jinli.co.uk/en 4 Leicester Street, Chinatown Mamasons Dirty Ice Cream – for Filipino desserts People may head to Chinatown in search of bronzed roast duck or sumptuous dim sum, but the area is also a hot spot for quirky, interesting desserts, from Tsujiri's black sesame soft serve and Bake's fish-shaped Japanese taiyaki cakes filled with custard (see below), to Yolkin's ice cream macaron sandwiches. One of the newer arrivals is ice cream parlour Mamasons, where Filipino ingredients such as ube (purple yam) and calamansi (a cross between a lime and a kumquat) are used to make colourful ice creams. It also offers other treats such as bilogs (ice cream in a toasted milk bun), halo halo shakes (coconut strands, sweet red bean, shaved ice, egg flan and ube ice cream) and freshly baked Filipino bread. dirtyicecream.co.uk 32 Newport Court, Chinatown Opium – for a unique cocktail bar It’s easy to miss the subtly-marked entrance to the best cocktail bar in Chinatown, as it’s just a black door between two restaurants on busy Gerrard Street. Venture up the narrow stairway, however, and the space opens out into a warren of cocktail dens spread over two floors. The first floor is the apothecary, where Chinese medicine bottles sit behind the red and green wooden bar, each filled with a decanted spirit for signature cocktails. Try the bitter sweet boulevardier; a concoction of Michter’s bourbon, bitter Cocchi Americano and vanilla Campari that gives the drink its name. The separate zodiac cocktail menu showcases cocktails in elaborate vessels. The rat is a ceramic vase-like pot that overflows with smoke on arrival, filled with a punchy combination of vodka and smoky mezcal with spiced apple, ginger and lemon tea. Upstairs in the attic, portraits of the owner’s ancestors watch over as you snuggle into comfy mismatched chairs. There’s a little area (and yet another bar) tucked away around the corner decked out like an old Chinese train carriage, complete with suitcases and wooden-clad ceilings. The menu up here reflects the surroundings – salted caramel sazeracs twisted with coffee liqueur, and apricot and cardamom old fashioneds with chocolate bitters. Wherever you choose to park, order a round of dim sum to accompany your cocktails. Go for seabass and fennel dim sum for something a bit different, or taste all the classics (siu mai, har gau, fluffy char siu bau) on a platter. opiumchinatown.com 15-16 Gerrard Street, Chinatown London Rasa Sayang – for Malaysian food Rasa Sayang means “loving feeling” in Malaysian, and this simple café provides just that to their customers. Pretty tiffin boxes and kitsch ornaments (tiny red and white plastic chairs) lining the shelves, and an extensive menu of authentic, halal Malaysian dishes are true to Malaysian cafés. Get stuck into the comfort food and dip super light and chewy pull-apart roti into curry sauce to scoop up tender pieces of chicken, or indulge in melting pieces of beef coated in fragrant rendang curry. We’ve heard the Singapore chilli crab is pretty epic, too. rasasayangfood.com 5 Macclesfield Street, Chinatown London Plum Valley – for Chinese fusion If you’re looking for a contemporary fusion meal in Chinatown, Plum Valley is the place. Owners Iris and Stanley turned quite a few heads in the Chinese community when they threw tradition out the window and revamped Stanley’s dad’s bookshop to create this modern restaurant. The multi-storey building is separated by candlelit staircases and dark corridors that open out into small dining rooms with slick interiors brightened up by Gaudi-esque touches reminiscent of Chinese gardens (tile effects at the windows, lattice floor dividers, mosaics). Start with a refreshing lychee martini and order a selection of dim sum. The head dim sum chef has a team of seven, and they play around with traditional recipes to create modern twists such as wasabi prawn dumplings, vibrant green spinach cases, and cod rolls wrapped in wispy strands of kataifi pastry. plumvalley.co.uk 20 Gerrard Street, Chinatown London Orient London – for Cantonese Orient London serves three menus – dim sum, Chinese, and a set menu. If you want to try something adventurous (including braised sea cucumber with fish lips, marinated spicy duck tongues, and fresh lobster with turnip paste and pepper sauce), make sure you ask your waiter for the ‘Chinese’ menu. The set menu sticks to the classics – hot & sour soup, crispy duck, sizzling king prawn – and delivers them well, at good prices. Cantonese style sweet & sour pork is coated in a thick, glossy sauce with just the right level of sweetness, and sticky pan fried fillet of sea bass with teriyaki marinade comes in bite-size pieces. orientlondon.com Read our full review of Orient London here. Hovarda – for Turkish food A sophisticated Aegean-inspired restaurant in Chinatown serving refined Turkish food in a relaxed setting. Leave room for a plate of lokma – Turkish doughnuts that came light and crunchy, with a sticky honey syrup, topped with crunchy walnuts and a gently spiced cinnamon ice cream. hovarda.london We chat about the best dumplings in Chinatown on our podcast here: View oEmbed on the source website For more information, visit Chinatown.co.uk Check out more London restaurant guides here: Best restaurants in Marylebone Best restaurants in Mayfair Best restaurants in Fitzrovia Best restaurants near Oxford Street Best restaurants in Brixton Best restaurants in Notting Hill Best restaurants in Battersea Best restaurants in Shoreditch Best restaurants in Camden Best restaurants in Covent Garden Best restaurants in Kings Cross Best restaurants in London Bridge Best restaurants in Hackney Best restaurants in Paddington
This is a Middle Eastern-inspired one-pot that is packed full of flavour. Some yogurt with preserved lemon chopped and stirred through it would go with it nicely
Try our harissa chicken and rice one-pot recipe, then try harissa chicken and white bean bake, sticky marmalade and harissa chicken, lettuce wraps with sticky chicken or crispy chicken with harissa honey butter. Harissa chicken and rice one-pot recipe
This is fresh and speedy. If you can’t find wild rice, plain basmati will do fine
Try our Japanese-style rice salad, then try our onigiri, wakame seaweed salad, mochi or one of our other Japanese recipes. Japanese-style rice salad
This fried rice uses paneer but you could swap it for some chopped chicken thighs if you prefer – just increase the cooking time slightly
Try our paneer fried rice, then try chilli paneer fry, vegetable and paneer dum biryani, or paneer masala. Paneer fried rice recipe