8 secret Mediterranean coastal escapes to visit before everyone else does
These are the Mediterranean secret spots for unspoilt beaches, clear blue seas and the perfect long-lunch restaurants
Hotspots such as Nice and Capri are popular for a reason – but there are plenty of other beachy Mediterranean getaways that can take you off the beaten track and away from the crowds. From Morocco to Albania, these are eight summer holiday-worthy places on our must-book list. For more travel inspiration, check out our picks of the 10 best Mediterranean islands for foodies and the best European city breaks. For a taste of the Mediterranean closer to home, book a table at one of London's best Mediterranean restaurants. 8 Mediterranean coastal escapes Cadaqués, Spain On the rugged Costa Brava in northeastern Catalonia, Cadaqués is a sun-drenched fishing town with an artistic edge, thanks to the great surrealist Salvador Dalí, who lived in the adjoining village of Port Lligat. His house is now a museum and one of the cultural highlights of a stay here. It’s easy to see where he got his inspiration from: whitewashed houses tumble down winding streets to a small harbour lined with grand cafés, seafood restaurants and views out to the Mediterranean. Our top food picks include Olibar, Talla and Batalla, which are all part of the same cool group of modern tapas restaurants. Compartir serves inventive plates inspired by the founders’ time at El Bulli, while Narita is a Japanese spot that makes the most of the daily catch. Away from the table, there are plenty of sheltered coves to explore and lots of great galleries and shops (we rate Pepa). To get to Cadaqués, you’ll need to traverse Cap de Creus natural park and wind down the twisty switchbacks that are the only way down to the bay. While you’re here, it’s well worth jumping on one of the 15-minute buses into the park itself. The views stretch to France, there are two beautiful, secluded beaches to swim at (Jugadora and Cala Culip), and you can spot some of the rock formations that inspired some of Dali’s most famous works. Read our guide to the best Spanish food trips for more ideas. Where to stay: Can Set overlooks the main bay. From the front bedrooms, you can look down at the beach below and across to the church that defines the Cadaqués skyline. The branded beach towels, provided in every room, are just what you’ll need for a day out here. Camogli, Italy On the Ligurian coast near Genoa, Camogli is a postcard-perfect alternative to Portofino. Known for its tall, pastel trompe l’oeil houses (where laundry often hangs from the windowsills), crescent-shaped pebble beach and easy-going harbour, it has all the charm of the Italian Riviera without the high-gloss finish. You’ll find lovely markets for fresh fruit and veg, old workshops dotted around, and a few small shops selling local linens and handmade ceramics. There’s plenty to do too: make sure you book onto a boat trip to nearby San Fruttuoso, a medieval abbey in a secluded cove. The nearby towns of Santa Margarita and Portofino make for lovely day trips. On the food front, La Camogliese is a little wooden beach hut offering fritto misto and trofie al pesto, a regional speciality. Above Camogli, in the hills of San Rocco, La Cucina Di Nonna Nina is a family run restaurant that serves very traditional Ligurian recipes. Historic Focacceria Revello is the spot to stop and buy focaccia di recco (with stracchino cheese), alongside pastries and other local delicacies for the ultimate beachside lunch. Where to stay: Cenobio Dei Dogi is the right side of retro. Built into the cliff edge overlooking the rocky sea beneath, it has amazing views of Camogli, its own small pebble beach and a great pool. Datça Peninsula, Turkey On Turkey’s southwest coast, the Datça Peninsula is a quieter and wilder alternative to Bodrum. 90 minutes from Dalaman airport, the peninsular is a meeting point for the Aegean and the Mediterranean. It’s home to almond groves, olive trees and a string of hidden coves with sapphire-like waters. Naturally, lots of the food and activities revolve around those groves. The Datça Vineyard & Winery olive farm makes for a fun day trip (and is a lovely place to stay), while almonds are scattered atop many of the region’s dishes. Many of these are best tried at Eski Meyhane in Datça itself – expect to sample the likes of stuffed courgette leaves, grilled octopus and sautéed spiced lamb. There’s a lovely, languorous rhythm to days here, which can be spent swimming, taking boat trips and having long lunches by the sea. Datça is also known for its hiking routes along the striking Carian Trail. There’s history here too: at the peninsula’s tip, the ancient ruins of Knidos add a cultural edge to any trip, while Eski Datça (Old Datça) is a charming village with narrow, bougainvillea-lined streets, stone houses and artisan shops. Where to stay: On its own private peninsula, D Maris Bay is one of Turkey’s most coveted hideaways. It’s surrounded by pine-covered mountains and overlooks five private beaches, which can be accessed by the hotel’s fleet of speedboats. New for 2026 are padel and pickleball courts, plus the hotel pool and its accessories have been branded by Dior for a third year. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2026/04/GettyImages-1291202682-008948d.jpg" width="683" height="512" alt="Knidos or Cnidus was a Greek city of ancient Caria and part of the Dorian Hexapolis, in south-western Asia Minor, modern-day Turkey. It was situated on the Datça peninsula, which forms the southern side of the Sinus Ceramicus, now known as Gulf of Gökova." title="Aerial view of Knidos Bay in Datca" /> Athens Riviera, Greece Stretching from chic coastal suburbs like Glyfada and Vouliagmeni right down to Cape Sounion, the Athens Riviera offers sandy beaches, stylish beach clubs and a smart dining scene. We rate Papaioannou, where the sea laps at the tables and the catch of the day is filleted tableside. We spent a very happy afternoon at Lake Vouliagmeni – a thermal, tidal lake set just back from the sea that’s become something of a low-key spa, thanks to the tiny fish that offer free pedicures if you dip your toes in for long enough. You could easily spend a full day here thanks to its sun loungers and café-restaurant set-up. Evenings call for sunset views at the Temple of Poseidon, which looks out to sea from Cape Sounion and was built around the same time as the Acropolis in Athens. You can also hop into the capital for day trips in just 30 minutes. The riviera is also home to Piraeus, which is where many ferries depart for islands such as Hydra, Milos and Spetses, making this the ideal starting point for any longer Greek escapes (see our picks for the best Greek island escapes). Where to stay: There are lots of lovely, high-end hotels here, but the grande dame is the Four Seasons Astir Palace (in its 1960s heyday, it hosted Brigitte Bardot, Frank Sinatra and Jackie Onassis). Discreetly tucked away at the tip of the pine-clad Vouliagmeni peninsula, this World’s 50 Best Hotel captures all the glamour of Greece. For something cool and contemporary, One&Only opened its striking Aesthesis property on the riviera two years ago, in the protected forest reserve of Glyfada. Ostia, Italy Just half an hour from Rome, Ostia is where Romans come to play against a backdrop of sandy beaches and retro lidos. It’s less polished than Italy’s smarter coastal hotspots, but that’s part of the appeal – and there’s a pleasing mix of eras and architecture. At the mouth of the River Tiber, many visitors come just for the sun and sea. You can choose to split your time between sunbathing at Lido di Ostia and watching for wildlife on the marina. Nearby Kursaal beach club is also well worth a look. It dates to the 1950s and remains locally famous because its pool was the backdrop to lots of acclaimed 1960s Italian films, such as I Vitelloni. Another highlight is exploring the remarkably preserved ruins of Ostia Antica, which is considered by many to be just as impressive as Pompeii (and without the crowds). Through mosaics, homes, baths and a theatre, it offers an immersive look at what life would have been like for Romans. After a morning exploring the archaeological park, head for lunch at Arianna al Borghetto, a trattoria serving Roman classics such as cacio e pepe and carbonara. Where to stay: La Posta Vecchia is part of the same independent group as Il Pelicano in Tuscany and Mezzatorre in Ischia. On the coast of Palo Laziale, under an hour away from Ostia, this is a gorgeous design-led hotel with sweeping views over the Tyrrhenian Sea and easy access to the Etruscan sites of Cerveteri and Tarquinia, as well as Rome airport. We've visited the best Italian hotels for more memorable getaways. Camargue, France In the Rhône delta in southern France, Camargue is an elemental counterpoint to the Côte d’Azur. It’s a Unesco-protected park of salt flats, wetlands and sweeping beaches, where thousands of flamingos gather and semi-wild white horses roam freely. This is the place to bookmark if you like an active trip away – popular activities include cycling through the lagoons, horseback riding along the shores of the Mediterranean, and soaking up the changing landscapes on a Jeep safari. At the centre of Camargue, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer offers a low-key base for long lunches and coastal walks along the 12km sea wall, which stretches out to Gacholle lighthouse. We like the look of Restaurant Chante Clair – a vintage-inspired bistro with a terrace that serves the likes of gougères, fish soup and moules-frites – and A Fleur de Sel, where owner Alexandra serves traditional French cooking with a touch of Provençal flair. Browse more of the best French food trips for more ideas. Where to stay: In a building dating from the 15th century, La Villa Mazarin sits within the fortified city of Aigues-Mortes, on the edge of Camargue. The 25 bedrooms are decorated differently – their charmingly old-school interiors feature oil paintings and antique furniture in keeping with the historic building. For something that’s both more rustic and more modern, Les Arnelles in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer offers a countryside escape – it even has its own stables. Taghazout, Morocco Just north of Agadir, Taghazout is a surf village with a bohemian edge. Once a low-key fishing spot, it’s now a laid-back favourite with creatives and in-the-know travellers who are drawn to its long sandy beaches, reliable waves and growing wellness scene. Killer Point, Banana Point, La Source and Anchor Point are the best surfing spots – and even if you don’t surf yourself, they’re great places to watch, swim and spend a morning with a book. Or there’s Paradise Valley – a series of lakes and waterfalls an hour away by car or bus. Taghazout is less polished than Marrakech, but all the more relaxed for it. As well as surfing, days revolve around yoga and slow lunches in rooftop cafés, while evenings make the most of sunsets overlooking the ocean. Our favourite places to eat include the hotel garden of World of Waves for a chilled breakfast, brunch or late-morning coffee, and Dar Joséphine for a French-leaning take on Moroccan cuisine. Check out our guide to the best Moroccan trips for foodies for more inspiration. Where to stay: There are a handful of big-name hotel groups here now, but we’d opt for Dfrost Almuga, a surfing and yoga-focused villa right on the water. Its optional ‘surf safaris’ run daily from 9am to 4pm, giving surfers of all levels a chance to get to know these wonderful waters. Vlorë, Albanian Riviera Unfurling along the Ionian Sea, the Albanian Riviera might be Europe’s most up-and-coming destination. With its turquoise waters, rugged mountains and clusters of mellow beach towns, it’s a fresh and beguiling alternative to the Mediterranean’s better-known hotspots. Days are best spent hopping between bays, from the lively shores of Dhërmi to the beaches around Ksamil, with scenic drives along Llogara Pass. For a base, Vlorë offers a compelling mix of beach and culture. Its coastline ranges from central stretches like Plazhi i Vjetër to quieter southern spots, where hotels often have their own private areas. Beyond the beach, the city’s layered history – shaped by Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman influences – is reflected in its architecture and landmarks. Food is another highlight. Drawing on Turkish, Greek and Italian traditions, the local cuisine is fresh, flavourful and distinctly Mediterranean, often featuring Vlonjak olives, which are among the oldest in Europe. Paradise Beach has been a Vlorë go-to for almost three decades, thanks to its seafood prepped Mediterranean and Italian style right by the sea. Taverna Ti Lilo is another must-book for its grilled fish and calamari in rustic surroundings. Where to stay: Hotel Vlora Priam has the Meliá seal of approval. On Vlorë Bay, it’s surrounded by the azure waters of the Adriatic, which are best admired from the rooftop pool and bar. <img src="https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/2/2026/04/GettyImages-912923408-5be57ad.jpg" width="788" height="443" alt="Ksamil is one of the most popular beaches in Albania and much visited by both domestic and foreign tourists. It is located in the south of Albania, on the Albanian rivièra. It is located just next to the famous archaeological city of Butrint." title="Crystal clear waters of Ksamil, Albanian rivièra, Albania" /> More travel guides 8 lesser-known Italian islands worth visiting Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
10 of the best Mediterranean islands for foodies
For an island escape with a focus on food, look no further than these ten Mediterranean hotspots
For an island escape with a focus on food, look no further than these ten Mediterranean hotspots. Spend your days beach hopping, then graze your way around seaside tavernas, beach bars and farm-to-fork fincas to feast on grilled seafood, regional pasta and minerally volcanic wines. Take your pick of islands off Croatia, Greece, Italy, Spain or France for the ultimate summer foodie getaway. For more travel inspiration, check out our guide to the best Greek islands or our favourite Italian hotels to live the dolce vita. For a taste of the Mediterranean closer to home, book a table at one of London's best Mediterranean restaurants. Best Mediterranean islands for foodies Formentera, Spain Loved for its powdery white beaches, crystal-clear waters and largely untouched landscapes, Formentera is the smallest of the Balearic Islands – and arguably the most serene. Long favoured by those in search of a slower pace of life, the island draws travellers from across the world with its laid-back atmosphere and quietly bohemian spirit. Despite its growing reputation, much of the island remains undeveloped and there are strict limits on car use. Instead, visitors are encouraged to explore by bike or on foot, following sandy paths that wind through pine forests, salt flats and coastal dunes. Nature is central to the island’s appeal. Just offshore lies the vast seagrass meadow of Posidonia oceanica, a Unesco World Heritage-listed ecosystem that plays a vital role in keeping the surrounding waters so clear. Perhaps that’s why there’s so much great seafood to be found on the island. Chilled yet chic could be a motto for the whole of Formentera, but it especially applies to its restaurants. Beso Beach is a laidback yet lively restaurant that serves some of the best paella on the island. Juan y Andrea on Platja Illetes has been open since the 70s and is another place for piled-high seafood platters. For a fun sunset dinner, head to Restaurante Dunas de Formentera for croaker ceviche, local squid with garlic and parsley and Iberian pork ravioli. Where to stay: Only accessible by boat, boutique hotel Teranka is right on the beach, flanked by pines. Its 35 rooms, from self-catering suites to doubles with private terraces, are bright spaces accented with local art and furniture. Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Then there’s Dunas de Formentera, an eco-luxury hotel among the dunes of Migjorn beach. Each of its 45 rooms has sea views and direct access to the beach. Check rates and availability at booking.com or hilton.com. Porquerolles, France Just off the Côte d’Azur, Porquerolles is the largest of the Îles d’Hyères – and one of the French Riviera’s prettiest escapes. There’s another good reason to visit: the island has roughly 320 sunny days a year. Largely protected as part of Port-Cros National Park, Porquerolles feels at one with nature: cars are scarce, pine forests line the sandy beaches and vineyards stretch inland. Visitors typically explore by bike, cycling between coves like Plage de Notre‑Dame and Plage d’Argent, before lingering over lunch in one of the harbour villages. If you’re after true French finery, book a table at Michelin-starred L’Olivier, which is open from April to October. For more casual dining, lunchtime-only sister restaurant La Pinède serves French classics on a terrace that overlooks pine forests. There are lots of lovely bistros too. Le Pélagos can be found on a pretty square in Armes, serving plancha-cooked squid with parsley and aioli verde beneath banana trees. Right on the water, L'Escale is another casual restaurant that’s popular for its seafood, tapas and cocktails. There’s one other important spot to know: Coco Frio, the place to head to for a scoop of cooling ice-cream. Where to stay: Le Mas du Langoustier has been a hotspot on this island since 1934. Only open in the summer months, the hotel’s easy to spot thanks to its earthy pink walls and pastel blue shutters. There’s a swimming pool, two tennis courts and access to the Black Beach. The hotel also has its own marine base for watersports. Check rates and availability at langoustier.com. Sifnos, Greece It felt like everyone on Instagram was in Sifnos last summer. And with good reason – it’s probably the most food-focused island in Greece. Part of the Cyclades, Sifnos is low-key yet atmospheric: it’s dotted with whitewashed villages and more than 300 blue-domed churches, and there’s a network of walking paths that link some of its best beaches with these hillside towns (our pick is clifftop Kastro). Locals are proud of the island’s link to celebrated 20th-century chef Nikolaos Tselementes, who was born here. Tavernas still serve his traditional dishes like slow-cooked chickpea stew and mastelo lamb. For modern twists on those dishes, try Cantina and Pelicanos, where chef-owner Giorgos Samoilis celebrates hyper-seasonal, local, produce-led cooking. Cantina works with whatever the sea yields that day, including often-overlooked species like lionfish. Pelicanos is a Cycladic brasserie on the sandy shores of Faros beach. Expect dishes such as the Greek double cheese melt, sandwiched between 48-hour fermented sourdough from nearby Betty’s Bakery or red shrimp oshizushi – sushi rice topped with torched Kilados red shrimp, spices and wild fennel. Where to stay: Nós is a collection of rooms and villas in Sifnos’s rugged hills, next to Faros beach and close to the popular Chrisopigi Monastery. Designed in a chic yet restrained style, each of the spacious interiors open up into secluded courtyards, terraces and balconies. There’s also an open-air gym and spa. Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Spetses, Greece Just two hours from Athens by boat, Spetses is one of the most elegant islands in the Saronic Gulf. Long a favourite weekend escape for Athenians, it’s known for its grand sea captains’ mansions, tree-fringed coves and excellent seafood. Cars are largely prohibited, so visitors explore by bicycle, scooter or horse-drawn carriage. It’s a place to truly relax: days revolve around swimming in clear bays like Zogeria and Agia Paraskevi before heading for a long lunch and ice-cream while wandering along the waterfront. Once on a major spice route, it’s no surprise that food is a focus here. Patralis is one of the slickest spots on Spetses. On the marina, it’s a true waterside restaurant that serves lobster orzo, mussel spaghetti and pasta with tuna. We also rate Liotrivi by the harbour, an atmospheric restaurant in a building that housed an olive press for 200 years (make sure to order its eye-catchingly presented prawn and scallop risotto), and Tarsanas, a taverna right on the water that serves one of the best lobster pastas on the island. Where to stay: In the Old Harbour, the historic Port Authority building has been transformed into the Orloff Resort, which also has an excellent restaurant. Check rates and availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk. We’d also book into polished Poseidonion Grand Hotel, a Belle Epoque mansion that’s been hosting guests amid white-washed walls and sea views for over 100 years. Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Menorca, Spain The little sister to chic party island Mallorca, Menorca has plenty going for it – not least an impressive art scene. Back in 2021, modern art gallery Hauser + Wirth opened up in a former Navy HQ on Illa del Rei, a beautiful island off Mahón harbour. Today, it’s one of the biggest draws to Menorca – and its outdoor restaurant Cantina is one of the prettiest places for lunch. You might have tried Menorcan cooking at Soho’s Mountain, chef-owner Tomos Parry’s love letter to the island’s food. One of his hero dishes is kaldereta, a lobster stew that’s cooked and typically served in a clay pot. On Menorca itself, the best places to try it include Smoix, part of the lovely Hotel Rural Sant Ignasi, and Binifadet in Es Castell. For something completely different, book into Godai for a Japanese-Menorcan experience. Another of our favourites is Nonna Bazaar, a true farm-to-table restaurant in Ciutadella that has a sister site, Nonna Beach, on Son Saura. Menorca is also famous for its wines. Torralbenc is a beautifully restored collection of traditional whitewashed farm buildings that became the island’s first boutique hotel. With just 27 rooms, the property offers a peaceful, design-led escape, alongside some of the best food on the island courtesy of Michelin-starred chef Gorka Txapartegi. The estate is also home to a burgeoning vineyard and winery. After more than a decade of cultivation, Torralbenc produced its first vintage in 2016, and guests can now enjoy a portfolio of nine estate wines. Where to stay: As well as Torralbenc, we love Menorca Experimental. Part of the same group as the Henrietta in Covent Garden, the Menorca outpost offers the same laidback charm, this time in a 19th-century finca with a sea-view infinity pool. Check rates and availability at booking.com or mrandmrssmith.com. Ischia, Italy Part of the region of Campania, Ischia is a short ferry ride away from Naples. Known as the ‘green island’ it’s a place of natural beauty and hot springs. If you like hiking this is the one for you: Mount Epomeo is the island’s highest point and offers incredible views, and there’s another beautiful walk up to Madonna di Zaro, a site of pilgrimage. For something gentler, Sant’Angelo is an utterly charming pedestrian-only village. A former fishing port, its distinctive colourful houses line the seafront and make for postcard-perfect photos. For the best experience of those famous hot springs, head to Le Fumarole beach, which has volcanic steam vents. Elsewhere, Maronti beach is one of the largest stretches of sand on the island. Given its proximity to Naples, Ischia’s food takes on a Neapolitan flair. For an authentic trattoria experience, book into Peppina di Renato – which dates to 1979 – for potato and gorgonzola pizza, panzanella salad and pomodoro piccante rigatoni. And you can’t come here without trying the local dish, a rabbit stew called coniglio all’Ischitana. Some of the best is served at Trattoria Il Focolare. Where to stay: Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa is part of the same group as Il Pellicano in Tuscany and La Posta Vecchia near Rome. As at Il Pellicano, the famed hotel that’s ruled Italian hospitality since the 1970s, you can expect relaxed yet impeccable service, bold design and a gorgeous spa. Corsica, France Corsica is known as the ‘island of beauty’ for its beaches, crystal-clear waters, dramatic mountain scenery and pretty villages. On the Med’s fourth largest island life moves at a slower pace, especially outside of the main holiday months of July and August. There are plenty of hiking, biking and canyoning routes along the island’s famed GR 20 trail – make sure to stop off at Santa Giulia beach, which is lovely and less busy than some of the better-known swimming spots. Porto-Vecchio is loved for its walled citadel, pretty narrow lanes, smart shops and unmissable restaurants. Many of these have made it into the Michelin guide: U Santa Marina overlooks the gulf of Santa Giulia and is a romantic spot that serves barbecued langoustines and local green asparagus; Casadelmar is the place to book for high-end seafood (the chef’s signature dish is confit john dory with olive oil, red lentils, burrata and tomato water emulsion); while La Table de Mina is the place to be on a Tuesday when the team serves a tasting menu of island specials. Elsewhere, Le Tire Bouchon in Calvi is a lovely bistro and wine bar, while I Scalini on the hillside village of Sant’Antonino is just the place for a sunset drink and relaxed bowl of traditional veal stew. Where to stay: A Mandria di Murtoli offers a selection of villas in converted stables that now make the most of Corsican design, each with private gardens, pools and panoramic views of the Ortolo Valley. Crete, Greece Crete is the largest island in Greece. You can explore the best beaches and tavernas around the island or commit to pure relaxation in one destination. Whichever you choose most flights land in Heraklion and it’s worth spending a handful of days here to see archaeological sites such as the Palace of Knossos and the ancient Phaistos. You won’t find any Michelin-starred restaurants on Crete but the island is famous for its traditional tavernas that celebrate local produce – many will shout about their organic gardens and family recipes. Chania has a buzzing food scene: just a short walk from the city centre, Periplous is a lovely seafood restaurant on the Halepa waterfront – try to get a table outside to enjoy a sunset dinner. Maiami, just a short walk away, is a top choice for brunch and Mediterranean staples throughout the day. The owner is a ceramicist who sells her pieces in the shop next door. Also in Chiana is Ginger, one of the most modern places to eat on the island. Formerly a traditional spot, last summer the team upped sticks to an industrial building three minutes down the road where it’s embraced late-night dining and cocktails. Finally, make the most of Crete’s legendary ingredients by booking a wine and olive oil tour at one of the many vineyards to the north-west of the island. Fabulous Crete offers a day tour at an olive oil factory and two family-run wineries. Where to stay: Luxury hotel Acro Suites is carved into the rocky cliffside of Mononaftis Bay to the north of the island. Couples can stay in villas with private infinity pools or two-storey suites with beautiful sea views. Elsewhere, Domes of Elounda to the east of the island has its own private beach and overlooks the beautiful Mirabello Bay. Malta The Maltese capital of Valletta is steeped in history – its famed cathedral is home to two Caravaggio paintings. Food is also a large part of its appeal. To get to know the scene speedily, head to Merchant Street Market, an open market will stalls serving traditional Maltese cuisine such as pastizzi, curried pea or cheese filled pastries. For fun first night dinners, Legligin is a cellar bar serving local wine and tapas, or Tal-Kaptan is a nautically decorated spot along Valletta’s wharf that focuses on pizza and pasta. You could also make a beeline for bar-lined Strait Street, where locals spill out onto the streets in the evenings. For fine dining, Michelin-starred Noni serves modern Maltese and Mediterranean dishes alongside an excellent wine list, while Xara Palace’s Michelin-starred De Mondion restaurant is all about elegant French and Maltese food. On its pretty piazza, the hotel’s more casual restaurant, Trattoria AD 1530, serves pizza, mussels and calamari. For the ultimate special occasion spot, Simon Rogan’s Ion Harbour is Malta’s only two Michelin starred restaurant. From the fourth floor of the Iniala Harbour House hotel, guests can take in spectacular views of Valletta’s grand harbour while enjoying an unforgettable dining experience courtesy of the man behind L’Enclume. Malta is made up of three islands (Malta, Gozo and Comino). A day trip via boat to Gozo is a must. Lined with beautiful beaches it’s quieter than the main island and is home to the two temples of Ġgantija, which feature huge bronze age structures. Our favourite restaurant here? Scottadito, an osteria that makes exemplary rabbit ragu, a Maltese speciality. Where to stay: In atmospheric Mdina, the Relais & Châteaux Xara Palace is one of the most historic hotels in Malta. The 17th-century palazzo forms part of the bastion walls that surround the city. The hotel makes the most of its history via bedrooms decorated with original paintings and tapestries. Ponza, Italy Ponza is the ultimate Roman getaway. A couple of hours from the capital by train and ferry, it’s the perfect island to tack onto a long weekend in the Eternal City. There are three ways to get around small but mighty Ponza: scooter, e-bike and boat. Water taxis will get you to all the major beaches, but we loved hiring a bike and zipping up and down the hills to get to the best, smaller beaches such as Cala Gaetano and La Caletta. It’s also the ultimate way to work up an appetite – La Marina at Cala Feola beach is one of the best on the island. Book in advance and you might snag one of the tables on the rocks. It’s just the place to enjoy bottarga pasta while the waves lap at the restaurant. In the main town, some of the best dining spots are Restaurant EEA, Oresteria and Lanterna da Silverio. That said, one of our favourite meals was on board a five-hour boat tour, which took us around the island and over to neighbouring Palmarola. There are no hotels here, but O’Francese is the island’s one (cash-only) restaurant, right on the sand. We saved our stomachs for the captain-made tuna and tomato pasta back on the boat, which we ate while bobbing about in the sea. Where to stay: Villa Laetitia is a gorgeous boutique hotel owned by one of the Fendi sisters. Overlooking the main port (every bedroom has a sea view), this is a sumptuous boutique option, complete with tiled floors, striking beds and lovely design details, such as branded crockery and pretty linen curtains. More travel guides Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best hotels in Paris Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
Best restaurants in Rome: where an insider eats and drinks in the Italian capital
Feast at the best spots for authentic carbonara, cacio e pepe and more Roman classics
I’m not a Rome local (yet!) but it’s a city I visit at least twice a year. Whenever I interview Italian chefs I’ll always trade recommendations for the Eternal City. From morning coffee spots to late-night drinking dens, the 10 places here are all on my list of favourite tried-and-tested Roman restaurants that I send to anyone who asks. For more local city guides, check out our guide to the best restaurants in Prague or the best restaurants in Athens. Best places to eat and drink in Rome Grab morning coffee at Sant’Eustachio I have the chef Skye McAlpine to thank for suggesting Sant’Eustachio to me five years ago. Just behind the Pantheon it’s been serving countertop espresso since 1938. It can be chaotic in here: you have to queue to pay for your €1.70 espresso, before you politely elbow your way to the counter, hand over your receipt, shoot your coffee and leave. They’ll automatically add sugar unless you ask otherwise. However you take yours, pair it with a pistachio or white chocolate cannoli. caffesanteustachio.com Have a stylish lunch at Salumeria Roscioli Bright, modern deli Roscioli has taken off so much that there’s now an outpost in New York. You shouldn’t let its expansion deter you – it remains an excellent place for a quick, relaxed lunch that spans the whole Italian larder (think Cantabrian anchovies or Pugliese mozzarella). Plates include everything from gnocchi cacio e pepe to raw Sicilian prawns with puntarelle. It’s also a lovely spot to pop in for a glass of wine – its cellar stocks more than 2,800 labels. salumeriaroscioli.com Experience a true trattoria at Da Danilo A tiny trattoria near Termini station, Da Danilo offers a perfect high-low experience: exceptional food in a traditional Roman restaurant, with walls covered in football shirts and signed photos of sports stars. It’s one of my favourite spots for a long lunch over cacio e pepe (here twirled in a whole wheel of parmesan at the tableside) and plates of various slow-cooked meats. I like to end the meal with a glass of passito (sweet wine from the Italian island of Pantelleria), which is served with a side of biscotti for dunking. trattoriadadanilo.com Have a traditional meal at La Matriciana Dal 1870 Opposite the opera house, La Matriciana’s retro lit-up sign draws you in. It’s worth nipping in to book a table in person when you first arrive in Rome, as it’s a little old-school in the best possible way. Inside it’s all terrazzo floors, dark wood tables and silver serving trolleys groaning with ready to slice meats and cheese. Its signature spaghetti amatriciana is piled messily onto branded plates but it’s one of the best in the city – as are the whole fried artichokes and chocolate pears when they’re in season. lamatriciana.it Tick off a memorable carbonara at Da Enzo There are often queues at this simply decorated Trastevere restaurant, especially in the summer, but the team is always happy to bring you a Campari and soda while you wait – and the food at Da Enzo is always worth it. Last time I was there it was a 40C day but we still loved piling into plates of meatballs, carbonara and fried artichokes. Make sure to leave room for the tiramisu, which is premade in branded glasses and proudly displayed inside. You can also buy them to take away if you’re too stuffed. daenzoal29.com Have a fun night out at Da Bucatino This Testaccio restaurant is always packed with locals and it’s a lively place. You can’t come here and not order the signature bucatini amatriciana. Before it arrives at the table one of the waiters will appear to tie a huge branded bib around your neck to protect your clothes. Away from pasta, Da Bucatino does local classics extremely well: I tried Roman-style tripe and baby pork with potatoes as well as the bowl of bucatini. dabucatino.it Try a late dinner at Al Moro Near the Trevi Fountain, Al Moro doesn’t take online bookings so it’s a good place to ask your hotel to book for you – or pop into during the day to check availability. Even if you can’t get a table until after 9pm it’s worth staying up late for as it’s full of atmosphere and the carbonara is one of the most authentic in Rome. It’s tossed at the table and is a perfect yolk colour with fat pieces of guanciale running through it. Service can be a little brisk if you’re not a local but they’ll soon warm up if you order like an Italian (in other words, don’t just share the carbonara and an Aperol spritz). ristorantealmororoma.it An all-Italian experience at Sora Margherita One of the original Carbone’s first head waiters, Ricky, suggested this one – and it didn’t disappoint. It’s the kind of relaxed place where you can sit outside watching the old Jewish quarter come to life, pouring over the Italian-only handwritten menu. The rigatoni alla gricia (guanciale, coarse black pepper, pecorino romano) is rustic in the best way. I also enjoy the baked aubergines followed by a wedge of cherry and ricotta pie, served with a glass of amaro. soramargherita.com Go for date night at Santo Palato If you’re after a dark-lit dinner spot with a new take on the traditional trattoria vibe book a table here (and do it well in advance, it’s not unusual for sittings to sell out months ahead). There’s a reason for Santo Palato’s popularity: it still has classic good looks – tiled floors, vintage posters on the walls, a chalkboard menu – but the dishes coming from Sarah Cicolini’s kitchen are bold. Think a twist on the classic carbonara, giant meatballs and a riff on maritozzo. santopalatoroma.it Order a cocktail at Drink Kong Drink Kong was founded by Patrick Pistolesi, whose excellent NIO letterbox cocktails you might know from home. A futuristic space in Monti, Drink Kong has made it on to the World’s 50 Best Bars list many times thanks to its dedication to invention. Guests can order by mood or spirit: highlights on my most recent visit in December included the Vortex – a mix of rye whiskey, fig and bitter cacao – and the Shōgun, a martini with apricot and black sesame. Nite Kong, a hidden bar within the same building, is smaller, chicer and just as fun. drinkkong.com More must-visits for foodies in Rome Castroni For coffee Stop for coffee at the Castroni emporium on Via Cola di Rienzo. Its house bar is wedged beside shelves of the best Italian specialty produce; find a spot at the bar and sip a cappuccino al vetro (cappuccino served in a glass) surrounded by the smell of just-ground coffee and the buzz of the Prati neighbourhood. castroni.it/en Mercato rionale Niccolini For fresh produce If you’re self-catering, the outdoor market on Via Niccolini (open every day but Sunday in Monteverde Vecchio) is the place to head for the pick of the season’s crops. Seek out buffalo milk ricotta and chargrilled mozzarella at Alimentari Carlo in the middle of the strip, as well as one of Rome's best fish stalls. Via Giovanni Battista Niccolini Ristorante Piperno For cosy, old-school atmosphere Double fried carciofi alla giudia are one of the undisputed pillars of the Roman table. For some of the best, make your way to Ristorante Piperno, tucked down a small street in the city’s Jewish ghetto. It serves meltingly soft artichoke hearts encased by crisp leaves in Rome’s most charming dining room. ristorantepiperno.it The Pasta Factory For pasta lessons As the name suggests, Veronica Paolillo’s unique studio kitchen lies in an old pasta factory. Which is appropriate since her focus in the small group workshops she leads is firmly on pasta. Learn how to make three different types of pasta before enjoying them first-hand at a shared meal with your fellow students. airbnb.co.uk/experiences Supplizio For street food The original Roman street food, supplì is a mozzarella-filled fried rice snack. At Supplizio, in the middle of the meandering streets around Via dei Banchi Vecchi, you can try a perfect rendition of the original tomato supplì, as well as cacio and pepe and carbonara varieties. supplizioroma.it Circus Maximus Farmers Market For porchetta sandwiches The long tradition of bringing herb-stuffed and crackling-coated roast pork from the hinterland towns into the city continues with the selling of porchetta sandwiches. One of the best porchetta paninos is to be found at the Campagna Amica Farmer's Market in Via San Teodoro every Saturday and Sunday. circusmaximumfarmersmarket.wordpress.com Il Goccetto For wine Enoteca are the best kind of wine shops: those you can have a drink in. Even better if they serve small plates of appetisers alongside the wine, as Il Goccetto does. If you’re visiting in the summer ask for a glass of chilled Grechetto from northern Lazio. @ilgoccetto Panificio Bonci For pizza It’s hard to walk past this spot, on Via Trionfale, without stopping for a slice of pizza al taglio, maybe potato and mozzarella or a classic pizza rossa. If you’re self-catering you’ll also want to pick up a loaf made using the best organic stoneground flours, or a bag of artisan pastries. bonci.it Piatto Romano – for comfort food Aged sheep's milk pecorino cheese is a cornerstone ingredient in the big four Roman pastas: cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana and la gricia. Pull up a chair at Testaccio trattoria Piatto Romano and dive into a bowl of pasta cooked the way it should be – simple, unsophisticated and blanketed with pecorino. piattoromano.com Words by Alice Adams Carosi, June 2019 Trust olive: Alice Adams Carosi is a cook, food stylist and the creator of Latteria studio in Rome (latteriastudio.com). Spending time at the city’s markets is happily part of her job description. Follow her on Instagram @aliceadamscarosi Rachel Roddy's best places to eat and drink in Rome Armando For traditional Roman food Metres away from the Pantheon, Armando is a quietly elegant, but not at all precious, trattoria serving excellent, traditional Roman food. Try the fettuccine con le rigaglie (fresh egg pasta with chicken livers) and the torta antica. armandoalpantheon.it Mordi & Vai For sandwiches At Mordi & Vai ex-butcher Sergio Esposito’s sandwiches are some of Rome’s greatest (and best value). The classic, panino con l’ allesso, is a soft roll dipped in rich meat broth, filled with meltingly tender boiled beef. mordievai.it Forno Campo de' Fiori For pizza Get to Forno Campo de’ Fiori by 11 to grab a late-morning snack. Order a slice of both pizza bianca (olive oil and salt) and pizza rossa (with tomato). Don’t stand by the door or the bins – take your hot pizza into the relative calm of Piazza Farnese and eat it beside one of the fountains. fornocampodefiori.com Testaccio market For market shopping Modern and bright Testaccio market is as tremendous and genuine as its grubbier previous incarnation. Wander between stalls selling fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and cheese, then buy mozzarella from Lina (box 89), bread and pizza from Artenio (box 90), and tomatoes and strawberries from Gianluca (box 32). Between Via Aldo Manuzio and Via Beniamino Franklin Flavio al Velavevodetto For pasta At trattoria Flavio al Velavevodetto, partly burrowed into Monte Testaccio, the quartet of classic roman pastas – carbonara, gricia, amatriciana and cacio e pepe – are all superb. In season, order artichokes either Roman-style (braised whole with mint and garlic) or Jewish-style (deep-fried until they look like an exquisite bronze flower). ristorantevelavevodetto.it More travel guides Best restaurants in Folegandros Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best restaurants in the Black Forest Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
My unexpected journey through Norway's fjords – saunas, seafood and striking views
Immerse yourself in nature and dive into the pristine, rugged beauty of Norway's western fjords
For more inspiring travel stories, check out a scenic journey through Cape Cod by bike, or the highlands of Peru by luxury sleeper train. Juggling a black coffee in one hand and a cinnamon bun in the other, I look out across the ripples our boat is creating as it moves through the reflective waters of Hjørundfjord, and realise why Norwegians head to the fjords for restoration. The quiet in this particular valley is paired with a soaring, rugged beauty. Around its edges it’s not unusual to see people diving into the water or climbing up its peaks. These wellness rituals – which encompass saunas too, of course – are themselves a wonderful match for a local food philosophy that brings people together over flatbreads, rich stews and bowls of cloudberries and lingonberries foraged on mountain hikes. For a true taste of Norway – and to get up close with the country’s enviable bounty of seafood – the striking western fjords are the place to explore. Whether you’re arriving via Oslo or from the UK (flights are around five hours via Amsterdam), the views heading into the colourful, art nouveau port town of Ålesund will awe you. It’s from the sky that you’ll get the truest sense of the place, gazing down at countless islands and islets in the Norwegian Sea below. It’s the ideal springboard for a five- to seven-day trip, hopping from place to place, immersing yourself in the sublime landscapes and raw beauty of this extraordinary part of the world. For a first meal that sets you up for a fjordic escape, book a table at Sjøbua. Taking over a handful of former fishing warehouses on the edge of the harbour, the restaurant leans into its history, serving some of the finest seafood on the west coast. One of the local catches is clipfish and you’ll find it here in its traditional form: salted and served as a croquette. The kitchen also crisps up its skin as an accompaniment to goat’s cheese and grayling roe. Order the prawns from nearby Midsund too. Naturally sweet and complex thanks to the ice-cold waters they’re caught in, they’re served simply with duxelles and burnt cream. The kitchen’s hero dish of halibut terrine with green peppers, white wine sauce and potato cakes is a polished take on a homely classic. The next morning is an opportunity for your first cinnamon bun fix. The best I tried were at Butikken, an eye-catching, sage-green coffee shop and deli. Part of the lovely harbour side Brosundet hotel, it’s the place to grab a box of buns to go as an afternoon indulgence, as breakfast at the hotel is enormous and varied. Among prettily presented cereals, meat, fish and bread, you’ll find the Norwegian delicacy of brunost, a brown cheese. Made from caramelised whey, brown cheese is more sweet than savoury, with a pleasant malty, fudgy taste that pairs well with waffles and raspberry jam. Another morning regular you’re likely to spy is kaviar, a salty roe paste that comes in a toothpaste-like tube. I squeezed some on half a hard-boiled egg but even the Norwegians around us admitted it’s an acquired taste. From then on I stuck to the waffles. From Ålesund, the closest fjord is Hjørundfjord, an uncrowded yet dramatic valley in the shadow of the towering Sunnmøre Alps. From a boat, the views impress whatever the weather: in winter the mountainsides transform into ski slopes, while spring and summer draw your eyes to the magnificent waterfalls and across to charming yellow and red wooden houses dotted along the water. The walking and biking routes along this valley are also much loved by locals – just remember to pack a bar of Kvikk Lunsj (which translates as ‘quick lunch’) in your coat pocket. Like a KitKat but better, it’s excellent hiking fuel. Spend time with some Norwegians and you’ll quickly see how much food – and the rituals around serving and entertaining – matters. Sometimes this is by necessity: the harsh winters mean there’s a reverence around hot drinks. These rituals are honoured at Union Øye, a wonderfully atmospheric 19th-century hotel at the end of one of Hjørundfjord’s passageways. As well as its gloriously grandiose interiors (think four-poster beds, roll-top baths and constant candlelight), a huge reason to stay here is its wooden sauna which floats on the fjord. Even in summer, diving into the water can be bracing – which makes the hotel’s signature hot chocolates, made with cognac, hand-whipped cream and squares of Freia Melkesjokolade chocolate, a welcome treat any day of the year. Come evening, its Palm Room bar serves a wonderfully sharp and bitter negroni, made using the local aquavit – a twist on tradition that’s well worth staying up late for. Another important stop-off around this part of Norway is Skarbø, a cider and cheese farm run by husband and wife team Kristine and Carlos. As the oldest daughter, Kristine inherited her family’s eighth-generation farm beneath Smørhylla mountain and she’s quietly set about turning its produce into an award-winning brand that’s now served in many of the fjords’ best restaurants and hotels. The farm shop is open year-round but in summer the pair hosts tours, cider tastings and tapas evenings at the farm. These are held in an atmospheric centuries old outbuilding with a grass roof. Before ducking through the door for lunch I spotted an unusual sculpture hanging on the side of the building. It turned out to be a curved rib of pork, air drying and aging ahead of a family celebration in a couple of months’ time. Inside, among antique crockery and farm tools, we ate steaming bowls of Kristine’s homemade cheese and cider soup. It was one of the most comforting things I’ve had in years and I regret not asking her for the recipe. If Sjøbua is the perfect start to a coastal escape, then The Boathouse is a fitting finale. Run by the team behind the fabulously cosy Storfjord hotel, this restaurant occupies a former hanger down by the fjord’s edge (you can work up an appetite by kayaking from the same dock earlier in the day). Open only on Friday evenings, its long-table group dinners are hosted by the hotel’s head chef Florian Harnisch, who cooks everything solo over an open hearth in front of you. And, wow, he can cook. On the night I dined he pulled together caviar and soured cream blinis; cooked oysters in cream and dill oil; langoustines in a deeply rich bisque topped with pickled pine shoots; bright scallops with cucumber and bergamot; and a fillet of reindeer served with jerusalem artichokes. Back up at the hotel’s main restaurant the fish soup and open prawn sandwiches served are just as refined in their simplicity – and its famed Sunday brunch tables are piled high with everything from gravlax to Norwegian-style fish tacos, all made with local catches. Trust me, after a meal here you’ll be grateful for the hotel’s variety of deep sofas and quiet corners. Your foodie adventure doesn’t have to end here. For a final bite you can order a traditional hot dog, complete with crispy onions and mayo, at Ålesund airport – and then buy all the Moomins biscuits, Minde banana chocolates and blocks of brown cheese you can stuff into your hand luggage. If this trip teaches you anything it’s that you should make snacking a sacred ritual back at home. More travel guides The best health and wellness retreats for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known cities 5 destinations at the cutting edge of sleep tourism Best romantic hotels Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best European city breaks 10 unique walking holidays for foodies 8 US cities to visit that offer spectacular value for money Best ski destinations in Europe
Best restaurants in Folegandros: where to eat on this chic Greek island
From coastal tavernas to five-star hotels, these are the Folegandros foodie destinations to know
Near to Milos, the diminutive Greek island of Folegandros is becoming a foodie destination for those in the know. From cocktails at a five-star hotel to regional cuisine you'll only find on the island, these are the must-visit places to eat to add to your list. For more Greek travel inspiration, check out our guides to 5 lesser known destinations to visit in mainland Greece or the best Greek food trips. 5 of the best places to eat in Folegandros Irene’s Folegandros has lots of reasons to visit, including deserted rocky beaches and its own riff on Greek cuisine. One of the dishes you’ll only find on the island is matsata. This thick, homemade pasta is best eaten at Irene’s, a roadside restaurant run by a grandmother and granddaughter. You can’t miss it – there’s only one real road that cuts through this 6-mile by 2-mile island – though it looks unassuming from the outside. You’ll get a warm welcome within, plus heaps of matsata with slow-braised rooster or pork ragu (it’s not a looker, but it is delicious). @irene_restaurant_folegandros Pasithea Another classic local dish is fava, a hummus-like dip made with yellow split peas that makes the perfect accompaniment to hot, fluffy flatbread. The best we’ve tried on the island is served at Pasithea, which overlooks Folegandros’s most popular beach, Agali. It’s just the spot for a languid lunch of fried red mullet and filo feta with honey as you watch swimmers roll out their colourful towels onto the sand below, contemplating your own dip after lunch. @pasithea_folegandros To Goupi In a pretty, tree-covered square in the main town of Chora, To Goupi is as good for people watching as it is for dinner – amble down to it after seeing the sun sink into the sea from beneath the hilltop Panagia church. On its outdoor chalkboard you’re likely to see specials such as meat and cheese balls, grilled octopus and a moussaka-like dish of potato, cheese and aubergine. Gundari The bar is the best thing about rugged-luxury five-star hotel Gundari, which looks down on plunging cliffs on a quieter side of the island. The cocktail menu has been created by acclaimed Athens bar Line (currently number eight on the World’s 50 Best Bars list) and guests can choose between sunset negronis by the pool or soaking up the vinyl being played in its moody Japanese kissa-style drinking den. gundari.com Papalagi A 15-minute stroll along the coast from the sands of Agali, Papalagi is perched on a hill looking down onto Agios Nikolaos beach. This coastal taverna serves all the Greek classics and is well worth the cliff walk to get there (arriving by boat is also an option, though you might prefer to work up an appetite for lunch). On the menu, you’ll find the likes of lobster, whole grilled octopus, anchovy bruschetta and catch-of-the-day linguini – all with a side of sea views. Where to stay in Folegandros Anemi Making the most of its traditional Aegean dome architecture, five-star Anemi offers a modern take on Cycladic style: picture white-washed walls with pops of colour and bedrooms with subtly sculptural furniture and décor. Next to Chochlidia beach, this sister property to design-focused Athens Was offers high-end spa facilities, an outdoor pool with sea views (some suites have private pools) and a yoga deck. anemihotel.gr More travel guides Best restaurants in Prague Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
The magic of the highlands of Peru - seen from a luxury sleeper train
Heather Steele winds through the country's highlands and lakes aboard a luxury sleeper train
For more inspiring travel stories, check out a scenic journey through Cape Cod by bike, or browse our picks of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world. The colourful Peruvian city of Cusco is best known as the gateway to Machu Picchu. It’s also the starting point to a slower adventure, one that ascends over 2,000 metres above even the Lost City of the Incas. Along one of the world’s highest train routes, the Andean Explorer, A Belmond Train takes three days to travel fewer than 200 miles, winding its way through the Peruvian highlands and expanses of the Andes that would otherwise be inaccessible. The ‘explorer’ part of the train’s name is key. This isn’t just a mode of transport, it’s an experience that immerses travellers in the landscapes and Andean way of life, from the moment your eyes first fall on a herd of wild llamas roaming the grasslands to the final pisco sour in the Piano Bar. Think luxury train travel and you probably picture the Agatha Christie era Orient Express snaking its way splendidly through Europe. This is exactly the elegance that Belmond wanted for its Andean Explorer, which arrived in 2017 as the first luxe sleeper train in South America. The lengths to which they were prepared to go to get that elegance were remarkable: all 20 midnight-blue carriages came from Australia via a three-month voyage across the Pacific. In situ, that blue hue pops against the earthy oranges of the Peruvian plains, perfectly mimicking the night sky above. Interior design details were inspired by the texture of Peru’s traditional hand-woven fabrics, the soft tones of alpaca wool and the slate greys of the Andes. Best of all, though, the 35 private cabins – there are double suites, twins or bunk beds – come with large windows to gaze out of. On one joyful morning I saw hares, chinchillas and alpacas in the space of just five minutes. The days begin early in the Andes and on both mornings we were up at 5.15am for sunrise. Clouds over Lake Titicaca conspired against us on day one but the team went out of its way to make the punchy wake-up call worthwhile, building fires, handing out blankets and pouring coffee. At Saracocha on day two, where we’d been able to count constellations with our guide William the night before, we were rewarded with far-reaching views across Lake Lagunillas as the daylight spread around the mountains beyond. These guided activities are highlights of the Peruvian Highlands itinerary. There are archaeological wonders to be seen at the Inca complex of Raqch’i. A full day is dedicated to Lake Titicaca. After a half-hour boat ride from the shore we stepped onto one of its man-made islands. Known for their distinctive cat-shaped boats, the Uros have lived on the lake for centuries, on islands created with layers upon layers of totora reeds. We were shown around by island president Caesar, watching on as girls in colourful dresses cooked up a pot of ducks they’d caught that morning. Another boat ride away was the bay of Collata, the world’s highest beach, on Taquile Island. The water was warm enough to swim in – just the way to work up an appetite for lunch at La Receta, a family-run restaurant that showcases the heritage of the local Huillanopampa people: think choclo corn and cachangas (fried bread) with chilli salsa, followed by grilled trout and rice. Back on board, there’s something fun about rattling along as you eat, martini glass pleasantly vibrating against the table. And, like most things on the Andean Explorer, every ingredient on your plate has a story. There are over 3,000 varieties of potato in Peru. We tried them many ways in the dining carriage, most memorably one lunchtime in a beautiful curried soup with seaweed. Another meal brought a chance to try the Arequipa delicacy of queso helado, a cheese ice cream, here served with cinnamon meringue and lucuma. Breakfasts could kick off with quinoa porridge. And then there was trout. Introduced to Lake Titicaca from Massachusetts in the 1960s, they’ve now overtaken the native catfish, so fishing for trout is the locals’ way of protecting the indigenous fish. As ceviche for lunch, smoked and delicately shaped into a flower as a starter, or simply grilled with yuca purée, I was happy to do my bit. Andean flowers and herbs are important enough to life here that each of the train’s carriages is named after one. As we hiked into the belly of a canyon we were given homemade hibiscus water to refresh ourselves. Back at the top there was a concoction of watermelon juice and lemongrass waiting for us on the train. During an evening stop at La Raya Pass, trays of hot sweetened almond milk circulated as we gazed up at snow-capped Chimboya mountain, which looms large as the trip’s highest peak at 5,489 metres. Herbs are also prized for their medicinal qualities. In the Picaflor spa car an altitude-acclimatising massage featured a bowl of infused, locally gathered herbs to inhale. Muña (an Andean mint) and coca tea are always available to settle any unease from the elevation. Though if you ask the bar staff they might also tell you that cocktails are the best medicine and hand you a Selva Alta of gin, cacao, black tea, highaltitude citrus and pineapple. Any altitude upsets are also likely to diminish in the face of the scale and wonder of these surroundings. I actually squealed with joy when I spotted my first pack of alpacas, and we soon learned the difference between the different camelids (llamas are the biggest, then alpacas, then vicuñas). A hike to the Sumbay Caves in the Salinas y Aguada Blanca National Reserve was awesome in the deepest sense of that word. We saw more than 500 ancient cave paintings, mainly of camelids, made by the region’s first human inhabitants more than 8,000 years ago. Look closely and you can spot one person and one puma among them. As the train rumbled along we relaxed into a rhythm and learnt to sway with the carriages. The place to be was often the outdoor observation deck at the very back of the train. With a coffee, an Inca Kola or a pisco sour, I read a book as we rolled past peaks and canyons. I loved leaning over the railings, watching the train snaking before me through the changing panoramas. It felt as bittersweet as coca tea when William pointed out the three volcanos – the largest of them, magnificent Misti, capped in snow – that signal the end of the journey in Arequipa. I was a solo traveller but by the end of the three days I’d befriended two sets of honeymooning newlyweds from the USA. As is often the case we came together over the dinner table, breaking into each meal’s sculptural bread, trading tasting notes on watermelon ceviche, sharing bottles of Peruvian sauvignon blanc and drinking martinis in anoraks. As we disembarked, the entire train crew lined up and applauded as we walked past. But, of course, it’s they who really deserve the plaudits, for showing off the very best of their magical country. More travel guides The best health and wellness retreats for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known cities 5 destinations at the cutting edge of sleep tourism Best romantic hotels Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best European city breaks 10 unique walking holidays for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations
9 cities that should be on every foodie’s bucket list
Expand your holiday horizons and tick new countries off your travel list with these bucket list destinations
Food can define a holiday. If it’s bad, it casts a shadow. But, eat well and you will deepen your connection with a place. Here, we’ve chosen nine world cities where the food isn’t just good – it’s one of the big reasons to go. Cape Town, South Africa South Africa’s wines are famous for a reason. In Cape Town, you’re within easy reach of the best growing regions – including Stellenbosch and the Cape Winelands – and there are plenty of companies offering day trips to the most storied vineyards (try the Franschhoek wine tram). We suggest an overnighter at Babylonstoren, the original sister property to The Newt in Somerset. A modern wine producer, the garden hotel has a gorgeous selection of accommodations, a spa and lots of overnight guest-only experiences, including one of the most varied and delicious breakfast buffets we’re ever had (we still think about the five varieties of butter). Back in Cape Town itself, the restaurant scene is popping. Down at the V&A Waterfront, Pier offers a high-end heritage experience; Salon serves a highly rated 13-course tasting menu; over in Paternoster, Wolfgat brings together foraging, fermenting and storytelling to create a 20-seat culinary retreat; and Ryan Cole’s Salsify at the Roundhouse rightfully won ‘Restaurant of the Year' at South Africa's latest Eat Out Restaurant Awards. Locals will tell you that Arthur’s Super Mini is the place for breakfast, while the terrace at Belmond’s striking pretty-in-pink hotel Mount Nelson is the spot to book for sundowners. Hong Kong, Hong Kong Hong Kong has so many incredible places to eat, it’s hard to know where to start. So we’ll begin with the first meal of the day. For something sweet and savoury, make a beeline to Cheung Hing Coffee Shop for freshly baked pineapple buns filled with ham and a fried egg. Lin Heung is the oldest dim sum restaurant in Hong Kong and draws a queue from 7am. Its traditional breakfast is served from a vintage trolley, piled high with bamboo steamers filled with siu mai dumplings. While you’re in Hong Kong, you’ll also need to try milk tea and a bright-yellow custard tart. The best we’ve found are at Lan Fong Yuen and Bakehouse, respectively. One of our favourite spots for lunch is Yat Lok, which opened in 1957 and is still loved today for its crispy goose legs, which are served with noodles and a clear broth. Eating here is a no-frills affair, but it deserves its place in the Michelin Guide. Round the corner, Mak’s Noodle is famous for its prawn wonton soup and is a great spot for a filling lunch. Three-floor Luk Yu Tea House is a historic must-visit – we respect its no-phones policy as well as its crispy chicken. And, you can’t visit Hong Kong without a meal at Duddell’s, a Michelin-starred dim sum restaurant that serves dumplings in distinctive goldfish shapes alongside sautéed lobster with sugar peas in black bean sauce. The Chairman is another much-awarded restaurant that should be high on any foodie’s must-book list. For something more high energy, Ho Lee Fook is a fantastic, neon-filled spot in Central, where head chef Archan Chan serves fun, modern takes on Cantonese classics such as sweet-and-sour Kurobuta pork with perfume lemon tea, Tetris-cut pineapple, onion and crispy tea leaves; while Yardbird Yakitori puts a flavour-filled twist on a Japanese izakaya in Sheung Wan. For one of the best views in the city (The Peak on one side, the cityscape and water on the other), book a hotel room at The Upper House. Its 49th-floor bar serves excellent cocktails and it’s almost worth staying here for the incredible dim sum breakfast alone. Los Angeles, US There are many cities in America we could have chosen for your bucket list: Chicago has always been famed for its unique pizza (and The Bear has added the city's beef subs and high-end restaurants to the global map), while New York will always be high on our list for memorable meals. But, nowhere does variety and glamour quite like LA. From XL martinis at the Maybourne Beverly Hills’ beautiful rooftop bar Dante, to more martinis, plus spaghetti and meatballs, at Musso & Frank Grill – a gorgeously evocative grand dining room that’s graced Hollywood since 1919 – a night out in Los Angeles is always a good time. Mexican food is a must. Some of the best places to sample the most authentic tacos and tostadas are the city’s roaming taco trucks. Locations change day to day, so check socials, but the best we tried were from Leo’s, a colourful truck on Sunset Boulevard where we sat at a picnic bench and dived into al pastor and asada fries. For special-occasion dining, look to The Ivy on the Shore over in Santa Monica, Nancy Silverton’s excellent Osteria Mozza and Avra for cracking seafood. For unique LA-exclusive experiences, lunch-only Destroyer in Culver City is a no-reservations ‘café atelier’ that serves the likes of organic duck confit ciabatta with crispy duck skin, wild rocket, preserved shishito peppers and roasted kale emulsion. Or, book a table at Poltergeist, which serves a signature Thai caesar salad and octopus burrata. Finally, you can’t go to LA without trying the Hailey Bieber strawberry glaze skin smoothie from Erewhon – we don’t make the rules. Tokyo, Japan The most populous city on the planet has a unique way of upholding tradition while exploring the cutting edge of everything, including food. Naturally, sushi comes very high on most people’s list of things to try when they visit, and Sushi-Ya in Ginza is one of the very best places to try it in all of Japan. A small sushi shop down a side street, Sushi-Ya has an eight-person counter where lucky diners are presented with the likes of octopus sashimi and traditional handrolls. Other top affordable sushi restaurants include Kagurazaka Yokota in Shinjuku (a meal of 15 handrolls and miso soup will cost around £30) and Sushi Mikata in Minato, which only has stand-up tables to encourage guests to stop in for just a few plates and a beer. Sushi and sashimi are available by the piece and served swiftly – ideal for a pitstop lunch as you spend the day exploring Minato’s shrines, parks and museums. You’ll struggle to find bad ramen in Tokyo, but it doesn’t get better – or more traditional – than Japanese Ramen Gokan, a small shop in Toshima. As at most ramen joints, you place your order on the ticket machine before being shown to a seat at the bar. Soy sauce or traditional ‘salted’ bowls of ramen feature nori dried seaweed and soft noodles made by a local, topped with pork chashu, wontons, egg or steamed chicken. Meanwhile, Butagumi in Minato is a tonkotsu shop in a beautiful old house, where the team serve up noodles in bowls you’ll want to take home as a souvenir. Tokyo has the highest concentration of Michelin stars in the world. One of our favourites is Sézanne, where French chef Daniel Calvert fuses the food of his homeland with the ingredients of Japan. On the seventh floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi, it has three Michelin stars and last month won Best Restaurant in Japan on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List. For something similar, Narisawa in Minato is a two-Michelin-starred restaurant with a simple, inventive focus on sustainability, drawing on chef-owner Yoshihiro Narisawa’s French-led training. Sydney, Australia Melbourne might get more cool points, but we think Sydney just edges its local rival for restaurants. Between days spent swimming (we love Clovelly and Wylie’s Baths) and shopping (don’t sleep on Lee Mathews and Poepke), the food scene here has plenty to keep visitors sated. One such top spot is relaxed and unpretentious Sean’s on Bondi Beach. The menu is local and seasonal, with most ingredients sourced from chef Sean Moran’s Blue Mountains farm. There are also tons of top Italian spots: Ragazzi is the place to for a late-night pasta fix (order the anchovy with whipped chive butter on sourdough), while Pellegrino 2000 is a warmly lit, neighbourhood trattoria and bar in Surry Hills serving homemade pasta that transports you straight to the narrow streets of Italy. Leave room for the crème caramel, which comes with a dramatic silver platter of banana-infused whipped cream. Australia, at large, is rightly famous for its coffee scene. A local favourite spot in Sydney is Tamarama’s MyFlowerMan – grab a coffee, soak up the sun and pick up a bunch of flowers. Ever-so-slightly off the beaten track, it’s a calm spot where you can forgo the queue for your morning coffee. Flour and Stone in Woolloomooloo is another standout option, which is also much loved for its cinnamon buns and Valrhona manjari chocolate cake (we hear Nigella Lawson is a fan). Finally, Sydney’s coastal location gives its chefs plenty of incredible seafood to cook with. Clam Bar, Ester and Saint Peter are some of the best places to try fish in unexpected ways – head to Saint Peter for salt-and-vinegar line-caught blue mackerel with olive brine, sourdough and cultured butter, or 12-day dry-aged yellowfin tuna sirloin with hand-cut chips, leaves and condiments. Bangkok, Thailand Bangkok is loved by foodies for two quite different reasons: the diversity of its street food and sheer number of its awarded restaurants. For the former, 120-year-old market Nang Loeng and night market Jodd Fairs are some of the best places to sample affordable dishes that run the spectrum from pad thai and moo ping grilled pork to jellyfish noodles and pineapple fried rice. There are many companies that run street food tours through the city. On A Chef’s Tour, just eight guests are shown around 15 restaurants and backstreet food stalls over four hours, taking in traditional dishes such as cured sausage curry, satay skewers and hand-rolled noodles. Then, there are the high-end names to know: Nahm, Gaggan, Sorn and Nusara are some of the most respected restaurants in the world, so it pays to book a table as soon as (or even before) you’ve booked your flights. In 2002, Nahm became the first restaurant in Thailand to win a Michelin star. It still impresses today, with Bangkok-born chef Pim Techamuanvivit offering a surprising take on the flavours of her country. Indian chef Gaggan Anand turned the Thai dining scene on its head when he launched his eponymous restaurant Gaggan, which is kitted out in neon and has a menu that blends colour, Indian, French and Thai flavours, and his own musical background – it's something truly individual. But for something more distinctively Thai, Sorn’s menu focuses on ingredients and modern interpretations of dishes from southern Thailand. Think: Phuket lobster or Tapi river prawns. Then, there’s Nusara: chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn calls his food ‘colourful Thai cuisine’ that honours his grandmother. Tasting menu highlights include blue swimming crab curry and crispy rice noodles, Thai wagyu with holy basil and a Thai tea ice-cream sandwich. Lima, Peru In 2023, Virgilio Martínez’s Central came top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, becoming the first South American restaurant to do so. Lima has other contenders regularly on the list, including Central’s sister site Kjolle and Mayta, which both lean into contemporary Peruvian cuisine. This year, Lima’s Maido topped the list. The epitome of nikkei (Peruvian-Japanese fusion), the Miraflores restaurant is led by chef Mitsuharu ‘Micha’ Tsumura, who turns out signature dishes such as squid ramen with Amazonian chorizo. Nikkei food is symbolic of Peruvian cooking, which generally combines indigenous, Spanish, African, Chinese and Japanese traditions, all backed up by the country's incredible biodiversity, which provides a wonderful bounty from across the Andes, Amazon and Pacific coast. One of the best places to experience the full diversity of these ingredients is at the 10-day Mistura food festival, which lands in Lima every September, showcasing food from over 300 farms, restaurants and big-name chefs. Lima is the only capital city in South America by the ocean, which partly explains how ceviche became one of the country’s national dishes. Down by the harbour, there are plenty of food stalls that serve fresh-off-the-boat seafood ceviche-style, but one of the very best places to try it is at Miraflores restaurant La Mar – a pioneering cevicheria that’s only open from noon to 5.30pm to guarantee the freshness of that morning’s catch. Another delicacy is guinea pig (cuy), and it’s served most inventively as a Peking-style meat with hoisin sauce at hotspot Astrid y Gastón, which you’ll find in a striking 300-year mansion in San Isidro. The pisco sour is another Peruvian icon – we drink ours at Hotel Bolivar and Museo del Pisco. Mexico City, Mexico Mexico City is roughly the same size as London, so you’ll want to set aside five or so days if you want to really get around its world-class restaurants. We suggest starting at Central de Abasto food market. It’s where 80 per cent of CDMX’s ingredients come from, so is a great spot to immerse yourself in the colours, flavours and scents of the scene, trying fresh guava and cactus as you go. For a definitive high-end Mexican restaurant experience, book a table at Contramar in Roma Norte, which opened in 1998. Famous for its showstopping dessert trays, chef Gabriela Cámara’s buzzy kitchen turns out the likes of whole fish – butterflied, grilled and painted with parsley sauce on one side and smoky red adobo on the other – in a beautiful blue dining room. Another hero dish is its tuna tostada, which comes topped with chipotle aïoli and sushi-grade tuna. Our favourite breakfast comes from Fonda Margarita, a no-frills café under a corrugated iron roof where diners can start their day with frijoles refritos con huevos (fried corn tortillas, cheese, beans, salsa and eggs), churros and hot sweet coffee. Get there at 7am to avoid the rush (most dishes are gone by 10am). For another traditional CDMX experience, visit Restaurante El Cardenal, a 1969 spot with dark-wood furniture, white tablecloths and a vivid mural painted on one wall, which all adds to the atmosphere. On the menu, you’ll find a wide selection of tacos, pilbil, quesadilla and four mole with braised meat. For a more contemporary approach, Meroma in Roma served the likes of tagliolini in a beef ragout with smoked tomato and hoja santa, and adobo-marinated fish collar with coriander, bonito and avocado in beautiful surroundings. Rosetta, also in Roma, is a Michelin-starred spot that serves an a la carte menu that could feature quail with plum mole, pickled paloma mushrooms and mustard leaf or beetroot tartare al pastor. And, finally, Quintonil in Polanco is a special spot for experimental Mexican cooking. Book a seat at the counter and try the likes of grasshopper tacos, mussel tostada and coconut sorbet with plankton and caviar. Marrakech, Morocco Bustling souks and busy night markets remain the life force of Marrakech. Within the old city walls that define its historic Medina, there are food stalls where you’ll find steaming tagines, couscous loaded with slow-cooked meats and bowls of harira chickpea soup being ladled out to locals. Everything is best eaten elbow to elbow at communal tables, accompanied by mint tea or strong Moroccan coffee. You can find some of the best coffee at showstopping Bacha – decorated with countless colourful tiles, the café’s single-origin drinks are served alongside delicate pastries, making it the ideal spot to recharge after a morning of exploring the souks. Staying within the Medina, you’ll find Le Tobsil, a romantic dining spot in a candlelit courtyard where multi-course Moroccan feasts are served with spiced teas and traditional hospitality. There’s also Le Jardin, where mezze platters, bright salads and grilled meats, such as lamb chops with aubergine and pistachio, are eaten in a tiled courtyard shaded with palms. Elsewhere, Sahbi Sahbi is a female-led restaurant that uses recipes passed down through generations. Interiors conjure the Arabian desert with terracotta walls and woven accents, while the menu shows off classic Moroccan cuisine. Think: lamb and aubergine tagines, slow-cooked meats and stone-baked breads. Another excellent female-run restaurant is Al Fassia (order the lamb tagine with prunes). You can’t visit Marrakech without popping into the Royal Mansour for a drink. One of the world’s most beautiful hotels, this former Moroccan palace is home to Le Jardin, a lovely courtyard with parasols and palms. La Mamounia is another hotel with heritage. We love the terrace of its Bar Majorelle bar for a saffron white negroni with garden views. More travel guides Best Italian hotels for food lovers to visit Best European mountain escapes Best Mediterranean islands for foodies 5 coolcations ideas for food lovers 10 UK and European hotels with Michelin-starred restaurants 10 unique walking holidays for food lovers 11 UNESCO cities of gastronomy to visit 12 foodies share the European holiday destinations you need to know
8 lesser-known Italian islands for a foodie trip
Swap Sicily and Sardinia for some lesser-known gems and a truly memorable Italian island holiday away from the crowds
Whether you’re searching for some late-summer sunshine or are one of those enviably organised people who’s already looking ahead to next year, a week on an Italian island is hard to beat. And while Sicily, Capri and Sardinia are popular for good reason, sometimes the best trips are the less obvious ones. Boats, beaches and bowls of pasta… Here are some of our favourite isles for a foodie escape. 8 lesser-known Italian islands to visit Ponza Ponza is the ultimate Roman getaway. A couple of hours from the capital by train and ferry, it’s the perfect island to tack onto a long weekend in the Eternal City. There are three ways to get around small but mighty Ponza: scooter, e-bike and boat. Water taxis will get you to all the major beaches, but we loved hiring a bike and zipping up and down the hills to get to the best, smaller beaches such as Cala Gaetano and La Caletta. It’s also the ultimate way to work up an appetite – La Marina at Cala Feola beach is one of the best on the island. Book in advance and you might snag one of the tables on the rocks. It’s just the place to enjoy bottarga pasta while the waves lap at the restaurant. In the main town, some of the best dining spots are Restaurant EEA, Oresteria and Lanterna da Silverio. That said, one of our favourite meals was on board a five-hour boat tour, which took us around the island and over to neighbouring Palmarola. There are no hotels here, but O’Francese is the island’s one (cash-only) restaurant, right on the sand. We saved our stomachs for the captain-made tuna and tomato pasta back on the boat, which we ate while bobbing about in the sea. Where to stay: Villa Laetitia is a gorgeous boutique hotel owned by one of the Fendi sisters. Overlooking the main port (every bedroom has a sea view), this is a sumptuous boutique option, complete with tiled floors, striking beds and lovely design details, such as branded crockery and pretty linen curtains. Pantelleria One thing to know about Pantelleria: there will be capers. A small volcanic island that’s closer to Tunisia than it is to Sicily, its closest neighbour, water here is precious. The upside of this are some perfect growing conditions for capers. There’s a whole museum dedicated to them, they’re served in everything from seafood pasta to chocolate and caper gelato (yes, really) and they’re also the butt of a joke in Luca Guadagnino’s excellent film A Bigger Splash, which is set on Pantelleria. There’s much more to the island than that, of course. There’s the pancake-flat Lake of Venus, where you can bathe and cover yourself in the shore’s mineral-rich mud. There’s a great ceramics scene (look for De Simone) and plenty of amazing walks (the trek up to Montagna Grande is worth it for the views, and you break it up with a spell in the Grotta di Benikula – a natural cave sauna). Pantelleria’s beaches span from natural thermal pools to rocky bays with umbrellas and sunbeds. And the food is fantastic – some of our favourite restaurants included Il Principe e Il Pirata (The Princess & The Pirate), La Nicchia and I Giardini dei Rodo, with its pretty, lantern-filled courtyard. You can get a ferry here from Sicily or for a standalone holiday there are direct flights from Milan and Rome. Where to stay: Tenuta Borgia is the striking, design-focused villa where A Bigger Splash is set. If you want to access the famous swimming pool, you’ll need to book exclusive use, but we loved our stay in the smaller two-bedroom dammuso, which had a huge terrace overlooking the sea and a smaller pool. Best of all, it’s completely private (you’ll be given the exact address moments before arriving), so it feels like a true escape. Ischia Part of the region of Campania, Ischia is a short ferry ride away from Naples. Known as the ‘green island’, it’s a place of natural beauty and hot springs. If you like hiking, this is the one for you: Mount Epomeo is the island’s highest point and offers incredible views, and there’s another beautiful walk up to Madonna di Zaro, a site of pilgrimage. For something gentler, Sant’Angelo is an utterly charming pedestrian-only village. A former fishing port, its distinctive colourful houses line the seafront and make for postcard-perfect photos. For the best experience of those famous hot springs, head to Le Fumarole beach, which has volcanic steam vents. Elsewhere, Maronti beach is one of the largest stretches of sand on the island. Given its proximity to Naples, Ischia’s food takes on a Neapolitan flair. For an authentic trattoria experience, book into Peppina di Renato – which dates to 1979 – for potato and gorgonzola pizza, panzanella salad and ‘pomodoro piccante’ rigatoni. And you can’t come here without trying the local dish, a rabbit stew called coniglio all’Ischitana. Some of the best is served at Trattoria Il Focolare. Where to stay: Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa is part of the same group as Il Pellicano in Tuscany and La Posta Vecchia near Rome. As at Il Pellicano, the famed hotel that’s ruled Italian hospitality since the 1970s, you can expect relaxed yet impeccable service, bold design and a gorgeous spa. Procida Like Ischia, Procida is a Phlegraean island – and we suggest a double header. You might recognise Procida as the backdrop to the Matt Damon and Jude Law adaptation of The Talented Mr Ripley. Either way, if you thought Ischia’s Sant’Angelo was pretty, you’ll be struck by the cobbled village of Coricella, whose port is dominated by eye-catching houses and churches (some of these look a little lived-in, but that all adds to the charm). One of the harbourside restaurants, La Locanda del Postino, was also in the film and still makes an impact today, serving the likes of local prawns, tuna tartare and marinated anchovies. Girone in Marina Chiaolella is another top spot, and is the best place to try the local delicacy of ricci di mare (sea urchin). As the entire island is just four square kilometres, you won’t need a car. Instead, visitors tend to walk from village to village and beach to beach, working up an appetite for their afternoon gelato. One of the best beaches is Chiaia, which has a beach club as well as public areas for swimming and sunbathing. Where to stay: Given its size, there isn’t a huge amount of choice on Procida. La Suite Hotel is one of the best on the island. Guests can dine among olive trees, there’s a pool to dip into and Il Pozzo Vecchio black-sand beach is a 10-minute walk away. Elba Picturesque Elba is in the Tyrrhenian Sea and the largest of the Tuscan archipelago. Once famous for harbouring Napolean during his exile in the 1800s, it’s known today for its beautiful sandy beaches, clear waters and mountainous terrain. These clear waters have made it a hotbed for snorkelling and diving, but anyone wanting to enjoy the waters even just for swimming will love the cape of Sant’Andrea, a bay with crystal-blue waters, golden sand, small shells and a series of inlets that have created natural swimming pools. The bay’s other feature are its dramatic granite rock formations rising from the sea. On the food front, expect classic Tuscan dishes with an island twist. Publius in Poggio offers the likes of braised tuna in chianti wine with polenta or cocoa ravioli filled with cinghiale (wild boar ragu) and a parmesan sauce, while Osteria del Noce in the old hilltop village of Marciana serves grilled octopus by candlelight. Elba’s not the easiest place to get to – from the UK you’ll need to fly to Pisa, get a bus to Piombino, then a ferry over to the island – but the final destination is worth the journey. Where to stay: For one of the best views on Elba, book one of the balcony suites at Hotel Ilio. These rooms are just a few metres away from the dramatic Sant’Andrea coastline. The suite’s private terrace is a lovely spot to watch sunrise and sunset on the island. Salina Part of the Sicilian archipelago, Salina is the second-largest Aeolian island and an ideal add-on if you’re headed to Sicily (it’s a two-and-a-half-hour ferry away). Recognisable for its twin volcanic peaks, Salina, like Pantelleria, is famed for its capers, but also for its olives, figs, citrus and Sorsi di Malvasia sweet wine. These ingredients define many of the local delicacies: ‘u pani cunzatu is a slice of bread topped with caper pesto, almonds, grilled aubergines, caperberries, tomato, mint and ricotta, which is baked in the oven. Fig and almond granitas are a daily must during the hot summers. Nni Lausta is one of our favourite spots to soak up the flavours of Salina – if it’s not too hot, grab a table on the buzzy terrace. A famously verdant isle, Salina’s highlights are best taken in from a boat. As you make your way around, you’ll get to admire Fossa delle Felci, a towering old volcano, the pretty bay of Semaforo di Pollara, and Punta Lingua, a lighthouse on the southernmost tip of the island. Where to stay: Owned by the Caruso family, Hotel Signum is resplendent in limestone walls and warm Aeolian colours. With terraces looking over to neighbouring Panarea and Stromboli, the hotel is also home to a lovely spa and Signum, which holds a Michelin Green star for sustainability. Lipari Another Aeolian island that’s worth a stay in its own right is Lipari (to get there, hop on a ferry from Sicily or Naples). The largest of this cluster of islands, Lipari is a UNESCO World Heritage site and there is real history here. Chiostro de Normanni is part of the first Benedictine monastery built in Sicily, while the imposing castle of Lipari is a neolithic wonder with a great museum. For the best views – and sunsets – head to Quattrocchi (‘four eyes’), where huge cliffs plunge into the water, sea stacks rise from beneath the waves and visitors can gaze across to the other islands. Two of our favourite restaurants are Trattoria del Vicolo and Filippino. The former serves traditional Aeolian dishes such as busiate pasta with swordfish, aubergine and mint or risotto with pumpkin flowers and clams. Filippino has an atmospheric location on the main town square. Over 100 years old, it’s a heritage spot serving modern interpretations of classic rustic dishes – think cuttlefish black risotto with Volcano ricotta foam, followed by a pink white chocolate foam. Where to stay: <a href="https://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-100565798-11795693?sid=olivemagazine-272170&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.booking.com%2Fhotel%2Fit%2Fla-settima-luna.en-gb.html%3Faid%3D356980%26label%3Dgog235jc-10CAsocUIPbGEtc2V0dGltYS1sdW5hSAlYA2hQiAEBmAEzuAEHyAEP2AED6AEB-AEBiAIBqAIBuAKA4LXGBsACAdICJDM3YzFjYzAxLTdmNTktNGM2ZC05MWY1LWU5YWVlMDNkNmU5YdgCAeACAQ%26sid%3D591c30c5005e4473cb6db7551ba9daea%26all_sr_blocks%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0%26checkin%3D2025-09-28%26checkout%3D2025-09-29%26dest_id%3D-113006%26dest_type%3Dcity%26dist%3D0%26group_adults%3D2%26group_children%3D0%26hapos%3D1%26highlighted_blocks%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0%26hpos%3D1%26matching_block_id%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0%26no_rooms%3D1%26req_adults%3D2%26req_children%3D0%26room1%3DA%252CA%26sb_price_type%3Dtotal%26sr_order%3Dpopularity%26sr_pri_blocks%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0__15400%26srepoch%3D1758294021%26srpvid%3Dfaf36980d7b20259%26type%3Dtotal%26ucfs%3D1%26" rel="sponsored" target="_blank">La Settima Luna is 50m from the beach, and makes the most of its location with a terrace and pool that offers panoramic views of the water below. Modern and minimalist, the hotel has white-washed walls inside and out, adding to the Mediterranean feel. Vulcano As its name suggests, Vulcano is one of the most volcanic islands in Italy. It’s a raw and rugged place where black-sand beaches meet deep-blue seas. Many of the attractions around Vulcano centre around this volcanic activity: some of the best ways to immerse yourself in island life are hiking to its ancient ‘Grand’ crater (worth it for the view alone) and soaking in the thermal mud baths of Laghetto dei Fanghi (you’ll soon get used to the island’s sulphurous smell). There are also lots of fun ways to get around: bikes, kayaks, quads and Mini-Mokes are all available for hire. One of the best restaurants on the island is Il Cappero (which, you guessed it, means ‘the caper’). In 2025, it earned Michelin and Green stars for its simple but expertly executed dishes, which tend to only feature two ingredients. More Michelin-worthy food can be found at I Tenerumi, which is similar in style to Il Cappero, but fully vegetarian. The easiest way to get to Vulcano is to take a flight to Catania or Palermo on Sicily, then transfer to Milazzo for a one-hour ferry to the island. Where to stay: Therasia Resort is perched above the sea. It’s a great example of Aeolian architecture, with columns, reed roofing and arches facing the water. All the bedrooms use natural materials – such as lava stone, terracotta, cedar and olive wood – that add a sense of earthy richness to a stay. The resort is also home to an incredible spa, with natural pools and treatments that maximise the island’s minerality. More travel inspiration Best Italian hotels for food lovers to visit Best European mountain escapes Best Mediterranean islands for foodies 5 coolcations ideas for food lovers 10 UK and European hotels with Michelin-starred restaurants 10 unique walking holidays for food lovers 11 UNESCO cities of gastronomy to visit 12 foodies share the European holiday destinations you need to know