From sunset negronis to honey-drenched feta, this Greek island is a hidden foodie hotspot
From coastal tavernas to five-star hotels, these are the Folegandros foodie destinations to know
Near to Milos, the diminutive Greek island of Folegandros is becoming a foodie destination for those in the know. From cocktails at a five-star hotel to regional cuisine you'll only find on the island, these are the must-visit places to eat to add to your list. For more Greek travel inspiration, check out our guides to 5 lesser known destinations to visit in mainland Greece or the best Greek food trips. 5 of the best places to eat in Folegandros Irene’s Folegandros has lots of reasons to visit, including deserted rocky beaches and its own riff on Greek cuisine. One of the dishes you’ll only find on the island is matsata. This thick, homemade pasta is best eaten at Irene’s, a roadside restaurant run by a grandmother and granddaughter. You can’t miss it – there’s only one real road that cuts through this 6-mile by 2-mile island – though it looks unassuming from the outside. You’ll get a warm welcome within, plus heaps of matsata with slow-braised rooster or pork ragu (it’s not a looker, but it is delicious). @irene_restaurant_folegandros Pasithea Another classic local dish is fava, a hummus-like dip made with yellow split peas that makes the perfect accompaniment to hot, fluffy flatbread. The best we’ve tried on the island is served at Pasithea, which overlooks Folegandros’s most popular beach, Agali. It’s just the spot for a languid lunch of fried red mullet and filo feta with honey as you watch swimmers roll out their colourful towels onto the sand below, contemplating your own dip after lunch. @pasithea_folegandros To Goupi In a pretty, tree-covered square in the main town of Chora, To Goupi is as good for people watching as it is for dinner – amble down to it after seeing the sun sink into the sea from beneath the hilltop Panagia church. On its outdoor chalkboard you’re likely to see specials such as meat and cheese balls, grilled octopus and a moussaka-like dish of potato, cheese and aubergine. Gundari The bar is the best thing about rugged-luxury five-star hotel Gundari, which looks down on plunging cliffs on a quieter side of the island. The cocktail menu has been created by acclaimed Athens bar Line (currently number eight on the World’s 50 Best Bars list) and guests can choose between sunset negronis by the pool or soaking up the vinyl being played in its moody Japanese kissa-style drinking den. gundari.com Papalagi A 15-minute stroll along the coast from the sands of Agali, Papalagi is perched on a hill looking down onto Agios Nikolaos beach. This coastal taverna serves all the Greek classics and is well worth the cliff walk to get there (arriving by boat is also an option, though you might prefer to work up an appetite for lunch). On the menu, you’ll find the likes of lobster, whole grilled octopus, anchovy bruschetta and catch-of-the-day linguini – all with a side of sea views. Where to stay in Folegandros Anemi Making the most of its traditional Aegean dome architecture, five-star Anemi offers a modern take on Cycladic style: picture white-washed walls with pops of colour and bedrooms with subtly sculptural furniture and décor. Next to Chochlidia beach, this sister property to design-focused Athens Was offers high-end spa facilities, an outdoor pool with sea views (some suites have private pools) and a yoga deck. anemihotel.gr More travel guides Best restaurants in Athens Best restaurants in Tbilisi Best European mountain escapes Best Morocco food trips Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best foodie city breaks by train Best Spanish hotels Best Italian hotels Best country house hotels in the UK Best Scottish hotels
The magic of the highlands of Peru - seen from a luxury sleeper train
Heather Steele winds through the country's highlands and lakes aboard a luxury sleeper train
For more inspiring travel stories, check out a scenic journey through Cape Cod by bike, or browse our picks of the most breathtaking train journeys across the world. The colourful Peruvian city of Cusco is best known as the gateway to Machu Picchu. It’s also the starting point to a slower adventure, one that ascends over 2,000 metres above even the Lost City of the Incas. Along one of the world’s highest train routes, the Andean Explorer, A Belmond Train takes three days to travel fewer than 200 miles, winding its way through the Peruvian highlands and expanses of the Andes that would otherwise be inaccessible. The ‘explorer’ part of the train’s name is key. This isn’t just a mode of transport, it’s an experience that immerses travellers in the landscapes and Andean way of life, from the moment your eyes first fall on a herd of wild llamas roaming the grasslands to the final pisco sour in the Piano Bar. Think luxury train travel and you probably picture the Agatha Christie era Orient Express snaking its way splendidly through Europe. This is exactly the elegance that Belmond wanted for its Andean Explorer, which arrived in 2017 as the first luxe sleeper train in South America. The lengths to which they were prepared to go to get that elegance were remarkable: all 20 midnight-blue carriages came from Australia via a three-month voyage across the Pacific. In situ, that blue hue pops against the earthy oranges of the Peruvian plains, perfectly mimicking the night sky above. Interior design details were inspired by the texture of Peru’s traditional hand-woven fabrics, the soft tones of alpaca wool and the slate greys of the Andes. Best of all, though, the 35 private cabins – there are double suites, twins or bunk beds – come with large windows to gaze out of. On one joyful morning I saw hares, chinchillas and alpacas in the space of just five minutes. The days begin early in the Andes and on both mornings we were up at 5.15am for sunrise. Clouds over Lake Titicaca conspired against us on day one but the team went out of its way to make the punchy wake-up call worthwhile, building fires, handing out blankets and pouring coffee. At Saracocha on day two, where we’d been able to count constellations with our guide William the night before, we were rewarded with far-reaching views across Lake Lagunillas as the daylight spread around the mountains beyond. These guided activities are highlights of the Peruvian Highlands itinerary. There are archaeological wonders to be seen at the Inca complex of Raqch’i. A full day is dedicated to Lake Titicaca. After a half-hour boat ride from the shore we stepped onto one of its man-made islands. Known for their distinctive cat-shaped boats, the Uros have lived on the lake for centuries, on islands created with layers upon layers of totora reeds. We were shown around by island president Caesar, watching on as girls in colourful dresses cooked up a pot of ducks they’d caught that morning. Another boat ride away was the bay of Collata, the world’s highest beach, on Taquile Island. The water was warm enough to swim in – just the way to work up an appetite for lunch at La Receta, a family-run restaurant that showcases the heritage of the local Huillanopampa people: think choclo corn and cachangas (fried bread) with chilli salsa, followed by grilled trout and rice. Back on board, there’s something fun about rattling along as you eat, martini glass pleasantly vibrating against the table. And, like most things on the Andean Explorer, every ingredient on your plate has a story. There are over 3,000 varieties of potato in Peru. We tried them many ways in the dining carriage, most memorably one lunchtime in a beautiful curried soup with seaweed. Another meal brought a chance to try the Arequipa delicacy of queso helado, a cheese ice cream, here served with cinnamon meringue and lucuma. Breakfasts could kick off with quinoa porridge. And then there was trout. Introduced to Lake Titicaca from Massachusetts in the 1960s, they’ve now overtaken the native catfish, so fishing for trout is the locals’ way of protecting the indigenous fish. As ceviche for lunch, smoked and delicately shaped into a flower as a starter, or simply grilled with yuca purée, I was happy to do my bit. Andean flowers and herbs are important enough to life here that each of the train’s carriages is named after one. As we hiked into the belly of a canyon we were given homemade hibiscus water to refresh ourselves. Back at the top there was a concoction of watermelon juice and lemongrass waiting for us on the train. During an evening stop at La Raya Pass, trays of hot sweetened almond milk circulated as we gazed up at snow-capped Chimboya mountain, which looms large as the trip’s highest peak at 5,489 metres. Herbs are also prized for their medicinal qualities. In the Picaflor spa car an altitude-acclimatising massage featured a bowl of infused, locally gathered herbs to inhale. Muña (an Andean mint) and coca tea are always available to settle any unease from the elevation. Though if you ask the bar staff they might also tell you that cocktails are the best medicine and hand you a Selva Alta of gin, cacao, black tea, highaltitude citrus and pineapple. Any altitude upsets are also likely to diminish in the face of the scale and wonder of these surroundings. I actually squealed with joy when I spotted my first pack of alpacas, and we soon learned the difference between the different camelids (llamas are the biggest, then alpacas, then vicuñas). A hike to the Sumbay Caves in the Salinas y Aguada Blanca National Reserve was awesome in the deepest sense of that word. We saw more than 500 ancient cave paintings, mainly of camelids, made by the region’s first human inhabitants more than 8,000 years ago. Look closely and you can spot one person and one puma among them. As the train rumbled along we relaxed into a rhythm and learnt to sway with the carriages. The place to be was often the outdoor observation deck at the very back of the train. With a coffee, an Inca Kola or a pisco sour, I read a book as we rolled past peaks and canyons. I loved leaning over the railings, watching the train snaking before me through the changing panoramas. It felt as bittersweet as coca tea when William pointed out the three volcanos – the largest of them, magnificent Misti, capped in snow – that signal the end of the journey in Arequipa. I was a solo traveller but by the end of the three days I’d befriended two sets of honeymooning newlyweds from the USA. As is often the case we came together over the dinner table, breaking into each meal’s sculptural bread, trading tasting notes on watermelon ceviche, sharing bottles of Peruvian sauvignon blanc and drinking martinis in anoraks. As we disembarked, the entire train crew lined up and applauded as we walked past. But, of course, it’s they who really deserve the plaudits, for showing off the very best of their magical country. More travel guides The best health and wellness retreats for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known cities 5 destinations at the cutting edge of sleep tourism Best romantic hotels Best French food trips Best Spanish food trips Best Portuguese food trips Best European vineyards to visit and stay Best European city breaks 10 unique walking holidays for foodies Swap popular tourist spots for these lesser known destinations
9 cities that should be on every foodie’s bucket list
Expand your holiday horizons and tick new countries off your travel list with these bucket list destinations
Food can define a holiday. If it’s bad, it casts a shadow. But, eat well and you will deepen your connection with a place. Here, we’ve chosen nine world cities where the food isn’t just good – it’s one of the big reasons to go. Cape Town, South Africa South Africa’s wines are famous for a reason. In Cape Town, you’re within easy reach of the best growing regions – including Stellenbosch and the Cape Winelands – and there are plenty of companies offering day trips to the most storied vineyards (try the Franschhoek wine tram). We suggest an overnighter at Babylonstoren, the original sister property to The Newt in Somerset. A modern wine producer, the garden hotel has a gorgeous selection of accommodations, a spa and lots of overnight guest-only experiences, including one of the most varied and delicious breakfast buffets we’re ever had (we still think about the five varieties of butter). Back in Cape Town itself, the restaurant scene is popping. Down at the V&A Waterfront, Pier offers a high-end heritage experience; Salon serves a highly rated 13-course tasting menu; over in Paternoster, Wolfgat brings together foraging, fermenting and storytelling to create a 20-seat culinary retreat; and Ryan Cole’s Salsify at the Roundhouse rightfully won ‘Restaurant of the Year' at South Africa's latest Eat Out Restaurant Awards. Locals will tell you that Arthur’s Super Mini is the place for breakfast, while the terrace at Belmond’s striking pretty-in-pink hotel Mount Nelson is the spot to book for sundowners. Hong Kong, Hong Kong Hong Kong has so many incredible places to eat, it’s hard to know where to start. So we’ll begin with the first meal of the day. For something sweet and savoury, make a beeline to Cheung Hing Coffee Shop for freshly baked pineapple buns filled with ham and a fried egg. Lin Heung is the oldest dim sum restaurant in Hong Kong and draws a queue from 7am. Its traditional breakfast is served from a vintage trolley, piled high with bamboo steamers filled with siu mai dumplings. While you’re in Hong Kong, you’ll also need to try milk tea and a bright-yellow custard tart. The best we’ve found are at Lan Fong Yuen and Bakehouse, respectively. One of our favourite spots for lunch is Yat Lok, which opened in 1957 and is still loved today for its crispy goose legs, which are served with noodles and a clear broth. Eating here is a no-frills affair, but it deserves its place in the Michelin Guide. Round the corner, Mak’s Noodle is famous for its prawn wonton soup and is a great spot for a filling lunch. Three-floor Luk Yu Tea House is a historic must-visit – we respect its no-phones policy as well as its crispy chicken. And, you can’t visit Hong Kong without a meal at Duddell’s, a Michelin-starred dim sum restaurant that serves dumplings in distinctive goldfish shapes alongside sautéed lobster with sugar peas in black bean sauce. The Chairman is another much-awarded restaurant that should be high on any foodie’s must-book list. For something more high energy, Ho Lee Fook is a fantastic, neon-filled spot in Central, where head chef Archan Chan serves fun, modern takes on Cantonese classics such as sweet-and-sour Kurobuta pork with perfume lemon tea, Tetris-cut pineapple, onion and crispy tea leaves; while Yardbird Yakitori puts a flavour-filled twist on a Japanese izakaya in Sheung Wan. For one of the best views in the city (The Peak on one side, the cityscape and water on the other), book a hotel room at The Upper House. Its 49th-floor bar serves excellent cocktails and it’s almost worth staying here for the incredible dim sum breakfast alone. Los Angeles, US There are many cities in America we could have chosen for your bucket list: Chicago has always been famed for its unique pizza (and The Bear has added the city's beef subs and high-end restaurants to the global map), while New York will always be high on our list for memorable meals. But, nowhere does variety and glamour quite like LA. From XL martinis at the Maybourne Beverly Hills’ beautiful rooftop bar Dante, to more martinis, plus spaghetti and meatballs, at Musso & Frank Grill – a gorgeously evocative grand dining room that’s graced Hollywood since 1919 – a night out in Los Angeles is always a good time. Mexican food is a must. Some of the best places to sample the most authentic tacos and tostadas are the city’s roaming taco trucks. Locations change day to day, so check socials, but the best we tried were from Leo’s, a colourful truck on Sunset Boulevard where we sat at a picnic bench and dived into al pastor and asada fries. For special-occasion dining, look to The Ivy on the Shore over in Santa Monica, Nancy Silverton’s excellent Osteria Mozza and Avra for cracking seafood. For unique LA-exclusive experiences, lunch-only Destroyer in Culver City is a no-reservations ‘café atelier’ that serves the likes of organic duck confit ciabatta with crispy duck skin, wild rocket, preserved shishito peppers and roasted kale emulsion. Or, book a table at Poltergeist, which serves a signature Thai caesar salad and octopus burrata. Finally, you can’t go to LA without trying the Hailey Bieber strawberry glaze skin smoothie from Erewhon – we don’t make the rules. Tokyo, Japan The most populous city on the planet has a unique way of upholding tradition while exploring the cutting edge of everything, including food. Naturally, sushi comes very high on most people’s list of things to try when they visit, and Sushi-Ya in Ginza is one of the very best places to try it in all of Japan. A small sushi shop down a side street, Sushi-Ya has an eight-person counter where lucky diners are presented with the likes of octopus sashimi and traditional handrolls. Other top affordable sushi restaurants include Kagurazaka Yokota in Shinjuku (a meal of 15 handrolls and miso soup will cost around £30) and Sushi Mikata in Minato, which only has stand-up tables to encourage guests to stop in for just a few plates and a beer. Sushi and sashimi are available by the piece and served swiftly – ideal for a pitstop lunch as you spend the day exploring Minato’s shrines, parks and museums. You’ll struggle to find bad ramen in Tokyo, but it doesn’t get better – or more traditional – than Japanese Ramen Gokan, a small shop in Toshima. As at most ramen joints, you place your order on the ticket machine before being shown to a seat at the bar. Soy sauce or traditional ‘salted’ bowls of ramen feature nori dried seaweed and soft noodles made by a local, topped with pork chashu, wontons, egg or steamed chicken. Meanwhile, Butagumi in Minato is a tonkotsu shop in a beautiful old house, where the team serve up noodles in bowls you’ll want to take home as a souvenir. Tokyo has the highest concentration of Michelin stars in the world. One of our favourites is Sézanne, where French chef Daniel Calvert fuses the food of his homeland with the ingredients of Japan. On the seventh floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi, it has three Michelin stars and last month won Best Restaurant in Japan on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List. For something similar, Narisawa in Minato is a two-Michelin-starred restaurant with a simple, inventive focus on sustainability, drawing on chef-owner Yoshihiro Narisawa’s French-led training. Sydney, Australia Melbourne might get more cool points, but we think Sydney just edges its local rival for restaurants. Between days spent swimming (we love Clovelly and Wylie’s Baths) and shopping (don’t sleep on Lee Mathews and Poepke), the food scene here has plenty to keep visitors sated. One such top spot is relaxed and unpretentious Sean’s on Bondi Beach. The menu is local and seasonal, with most ingredients sourced from chef Sean Moran’s Blue Mountains farm. There are also tons of top Italian spots: Ragazzi is the place to for a late-night pasta fix (order the anchovy with whipped chive butter on sourdough), while Pellegrino 2000 is a warmly lit, neighbourhood trattoria and bar in Surry Hills serving homemade pasta that transports you straight to the narrow streets of Italy. Leave room for the crème caramel, which comes with a dramatic silver platter of banana-infused whipped cream. Australia, at large, is rightly famous for its coffee scene. A local favourite spot in Sydney is Tamarama’s MyFlowerMan – grab a coffee, soak up the sun and pick up a bunch of flowers. Ever-so-slightly off the beaten track, it’s a calm spot where you can forgo the queue for your morning coffee. Flour and Stone in Woolloomooloo is another standout option, which is also much loved for its cinnamon buns and Valrhona manjari chocolate cake (we hear Nigella Lawson is a fan). Finally, Sydney’s coastal location gives its chefs plenty of incredible seafood to cook with. Clam Bar, Ester and Saint Peter are some of the best places to try fish in unexpected ways – head to Saint Peter for salt-and-vinegar line-caught blue mackerel with olive brine, sourdough and cultured butter, or 12-day dry-aged yellowfin tuna sirloin with hand-cut chips, leaves and condiments. Bangkok, Thailand Bangkok is loved by foodies for two quite different reasons: the diversity of its street food and sheer number of its awarded restaurants. For the former, 120-year-old market Nang Loeng and night market Jodd Fairs are some of the best places to sample affordable dishes that run the spectrum from pad thai and moo ping grilled pork to jellyfish noodles and pineapple fried rice. There are many companies that run street food tours through the city. On A Chef’s Tour, just eight guests are shown around 15 restaurants and backstreet food stalls over four hours, taking in traditional dishes such as cured sausage curry, satay skewers and hand-rolled noodles. Then, there are the high-end names to know: Nahm, Gaggan, Sorn and Nusara are some of the most respected restaurants in the world, so it pays to book a table as soon as (or even before) you’ve booked your flights. In 2002, Nahm became the first restaurant in Thailand to win a Michelin star. It still impresses today, with Bangkok-born chef Pim Techamuanvivit offering a surprising take on the flavours of her country. Indian chef Gaggan Anand turned the Thai dining scene on its head when he launched his eponymous restaurant Gaggan, which is kitted out in neon and has a menu that blends colour, Indian, French and Thai flavours, and his own musical background – it's something truly individual. But for something more distinctively Thai, Sorn’s menu focuses on ingredients and modern interpretations of dishes from southern Thailand. Think: Phuket lobster or Tapi river prawns. Then, there’s Nusara: chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn calls his food ‘colourful Thai cuisine’ that honours his grandmother. Tasting menu highlights include blue swimming crab curry and crispy rice noodles, Thai wagyu with holy basil and a Thai tea ice-cream sandwich. Lima, Peru In 2023, Virgilio Martínez’s Central came top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, becoming the first South American restaurant to do so. Lima has other contenders regularly on the list, including Central’s sister site Kjolle and Mayta, which both lean into contemporary Peruvian cuisine. This year, Lima’s Maido topped the list. The epitome of nikkei (Peruvian-Japanese fusion), the Miraflores restaurant is led by chef Mitsuharu ‘Micha’ Tsumura, who turns out signature dishes such as squid ramen with Amazonian chorizo. Nikkei food is symbolic of Peruvian cooking, which generally combines indigenous, Spanish, African, Chinese and Japanese traditions, all backed up by the country's incredible biodiversity, which provides a wonderful bounty from across the Andes, Amazon and Pacific coast. One of the best places to experience the full diversity of these ingredients is at the 10-day Mistura food festival, which lands in Lima every September, showcasing food from over 300 farms, restaurants and big-name chefs. Lima is the only capital city in South America by the ocean, which partly explains how ceviche became one of the country’s national dishes. Down by the harbour, there are plenty of food stalls that serve fresh-off-the-boat seafood ceviche-style, but one of the very best places to try it is at Miraflores restaurant La Mar – a pioneering cevicheria that’s only open from noon to 5.30pm to guarantee the freshness of that morning’s catch. Another delicacy is guinea pig (cuy), and it’s served most inventively as a Peking-style meat with hoisin sauce at hotspot Astrid y Gastón, which you’ll find in a striking 300-year mansion in San Isidro. The pisco sour is another Peruvian icon – we drink ours at Hotel Bolivar and Museo del Pisco. Mexico City, Mexico Mexico City is roughly the same size as London, so you’ll want to set aside five or so days if you want to really get around its world-class restaurants. We suggest starting at Central de Abasto food market. It’s where 80 per cent of CDMX’s ingredients come from, so is a great spot to immerse yourself in the colours, flavours and scents of the scene, trying fresh guava and cactus as you go. For a definitive high-end Mexican restaurant experience, book a table at Contramar in Roma Norte, which opened in 1998. Famous for its showstopping dessert trays, chef Gabriela Cámara’s buzzy kitchen turns out the likes of whole fish – butterflied, grilled and painted with parsley sauce on one side and smoky red adobo on the other – in a beautiful blue dining room. Another hero dish is its tuna tostada, which comes topped with chipotle aïoli and sushi-grade tuna. Our favourite breakfast comes from Fonda Margarita, a no-frills café under a corrugated iron roof where diners can start their day with frijoles refritos con huevos (fried corn tortillas, cheese, beans, salsa and eggs), churros and hot sweet coffee. Get there at 7am to avoid the rush (most dishes are gone by 10am). For another traditional CDMX experience, visit Restaurante El Cardenal, a 1969 spot with dark-wood furniture, white tablecloths and a vivid mural painted on one wall, which all adds to the atmosphere. On the menu, you’ll find a wide selection of tacos, pilbil, quesadilla and four mole with braised meat. For a more contemporary approach, Meroma in Roma served the likes of tagliolini in a beef ragout with smoked tomato and hoja santa, and adobo-marinated fish collar with coriander, bonito and avocado in beautiful surroundings. Rosetta, also in Roma, is a Michelin-starred spot that serves an a la carte menu that could feature quail with plum mole, pickled paloma mushrooms and mustard leaf or beetroot tartare al pastor. And, finally, Quintonil in Polanco is a special spot for experimental Mexican cooking. Book a seat at the counter and try the likes of grasshopper tacos, mussel tostada and coconut sorbet with plankton and caviar. Marrakech, Morocco Bustling souks and busy night markets remain the life force of Marrakech. Within the old city walls that define its historic Medina, there are food stalls where you’ll find steaming tagines, couscous loaded with slow-cooked meats and bowls of harira chickpea soup being ladled out to locals. Everything is best eaten elbow to elbow at communal tables, accompanied by mint tea or strong Moroccan coffee. You can find some of the best coffee at showstopping Bacha – decorated with countless colourful tiles, the café’s single-origin drinks are served alongside delicate pastries, making it the ideal spot to recharge after a morning of exploring the souks. Staying within the Medina, you’ll find Le Tobsil, a romantic dining spot in a candlelit courtyard where multi-course Moroccan feasts are served with spiced teas and traditional hospitality. There’s also Le Jardin, where mezze platters, bright salads and grilled meats, such as lamb chops with aubergine and pistachio, are eaten in a tiled courtyard shaded with palms. Elsewhere, Sahbi Sahbi is a female-led restaurant that uses recipes passed down through generations. Interiors conjure the Arabian desert with terracotta walls and woven accents, while the menu shows off classic Moroccan cuisine. Think: lamb and aubergine tagines, slow-cooked meats and stone-baked breads. Another excellent female-run restaurant is Al Fassia (order the lamb tagine with prunes). You can’t visit Marrakech without popping into the Royal Mansour for a drink. One of the world’s most beautiful hotels, this former Moroccan palace is home to Le Jardin, a lovely courtyard with parasols and palms. La Mamounia is another hotel with heritage. We love the terrace of its Bar Majorelle bar for a saffron white negroni with garden views. 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8 lesser-known Italian islands for a foodie trip
Swap Sicily and Sardinia for some lesser-known gems and a truly memorable Italian island holiday away from the crowds
Whether you’re searching for some late-summer sunshine or are one of those enviably organised people who’s already looking ahead to next year, a week on an Italian island is hard to beat. And while Sicily, Capri and Sardinia are popular for good reason, sometimes the best trips are the less obvious ones. Boats, beaches and bowls of pasta… Here are some of our favourite isles for a foodie escape. 8 lesser-known Italian islands to visit Ponza Ponza is the ultimate Roman getaway. A couple of hours from the capital by train and ferry, it’s the perfect island to tack onto a long weekend in the Eternal City. There are three ways to get around small but mighty Ponza: scooter, e-bike and boat. Water taxis will get you to all the major beaches, but we loved hiring a bike and zipping up and down the hills to get to the best, smaller beaches such as Cala Gaetano and La Caletta. It’s also the ultimate way to work up an appetite – La Marina at Cala Feola beach is one of the best on the island. Book in advance and you might snag one of the tables on the rocks. It’s just the place to enjoy bottarga pasta while the waves lap at the restaurant. In the main town, some of the best dining spots are Restaurant EEA, Oresteria and Lanterna da Silverio. That said, one of our favourite meals was on board a five-hour boat tour, which took us around the island and over to neighbouring Palmarola. There are no hotels here, but O’Francese is the island’s one (cash-only) restaurant, right on the sand. We saved our stomachs for the captain-made tuna and tomato pasta back on the boat, which we ate while bobbing about in the sea. Where to stay: Villa Laetitia is a gorgeous boutique hotel owned by one of the Fendi sisters. Overlooking the main port (every bedroom has a sea view), this is a sumptuous boutique option, complete with tiled floors, striking beds and lovely design details, such as branded crockery and pretty linen curtains. Pantelleria One thing to know about Pantelleria: there will be capers. A small volcanic island that’s closer to Tunisia than it is to Sicily, its closest neighbour, water here is precious. The upside of this are some perfect growing conditions for capers. There’s a whole museum dedicated to them, they’re served in everything from seafood pasta to chocolate and caper gelato (yes, really) and they’re also the butt of a joke in Luca Guadagnino’s excellent film A Bigger Splash, which is set on Pantelleria. There’s much more to the island than that, of course. There’s the pancake-flat Lake of Venus, where you can bathe and cover yourself in the shore’s mineral-rich mud. There’s a great ceramics scene (look for De Simone) and plenty of amazing walks (the trek up to Montagna Grande is worth it for the views, and you break it up with a spell in the Grotta di Benikula – a natural cave sauna). Pantelleria’s beaches span from natural thermal pools to rocky bays with umbrellas and sunbeds. And the food is fantastic – some of our favourite restaurants included Il Principe e Il Pirata (The Princess & The Pirate), La Nicchia and I Giardini dei Rodo, with its pretty, lantern-filled courtyard. You can get a ferry here from Sicily or for a standalone holiday there are direct flights from Milan and Rome. Where to stay: Tenuta Borgia is the striking, design-focused villa where A Bigger Splash is set. If you want to access the famous swimming pool, you’ll need to book exclusive use, but we loved our stay in the smaller two-bedroom dammuso, which had a huge terrace overlooking the sea and a smaller pool. Best of all, it’s completely private (you’ll be given the exact address moments before arriving), so it feels like a true escape. Ischia Part of the region of Campania, Ischia is a short ferry ride away from Naples. Known as the ‘green island’, it’s a place of natural beauty and hot springs. If you like hiking, this is the one for you: Mount Epomeo is the island’s highest point and offers incredible views, and there’s another beautiful walk up to Madonna di Zaro, a site of pilgrimage. For something gentler, Sant’Angelo is an utterly charming pedestrian-only village. A former fishing port, its distinctive colourful houses line the seafront and make for postcard-perfect photos. For the best experience of those famous hot springs, head to Le Fumarole beach, which has volcanic steam vents. Elsewhere, Maronti beach is one of the largest stretches of sand on the island. Given its proximity to Naples, Ischia’s food takes on a Neapolitan flair. For an authentic trattoria experience, book into Peppina di Renato – which dates to 1979 – for potato and gorgonzola pizza, panzanella salad and ‘pomodoro piccante’ rigatoni. And you can’t come here without trying the local dish, a rabbit stew called coniglio all’Ischitana. Some of the best is served at Trattoria Il Focolare. Where to stay: Mezzatorre Hotel & Thermal Spa is part of the same group as Il Pellicano in Tuscany and La Posta Vecchia near Rome. As at Il Pellicano, the famed hotel that’s ruled Italian hospitality since the 1970s, you can expect relaxed yet impeccable service, bold design and a gorgeous spa. Procida Like Ischia, Procida is a Phlegraean island – and we suggest a double header. You might recognise Procida as the backdrop to the Matt Damon and Jude Law adaptation of The Talented Mr Ripley. Either way, if you thought Ischia’s Sant’Angelo was pretty, you’ll be struck by the cobbled village of Coricella, whose port is dominated by eye-catching houses and churches (some of these look a little lived-in, but that all adds to the charm). One of the harbourside restaurants, La Locanda del Postino, was also in the film and still makes an impact today, serving the likes of local prawns, tuna tartare and marinated anchovies. Girone in Marina Chiaolella is another top spot, and is the best place to try the local delicacy of ricci di mare (sea urchin). As the entire island is just four square kilometres, you won’t need a car. Instead, visitors tend to walk from village to village and beach to beach, working up an appetite for their afternoon gelato. One of the best beaches is Chiaia, which has a beach club as well as public areas for swimming and sunbathing. Where to stay: Given its size, there isn’t a huge amount of choice on Procida. La Suite Hotel is one of the best on the island. Guests can dine among olive trees, there’s a pool to dip into and Il Pozzo Vecchio black-sand beach is a 10-minute walk away. Elba Picturesque Elba is in the Tyrrhenian Sea and the largest of the Tuscan archipelago. Once famous for harbouring Napolean during his exile in the 1800s, it’s known today for its beautiful sandy beaches, clear waters and mountainous terrain. These clear waters have made it a hotbed for snorkelling and diving, but anyone wanting to enjoy the waters even just for swimming will love the cape of Sant’Andrea, a bay with crystal-blue waters, golden sand, small shells and a series of inlets that have created natural swimming pools. The bay’s other feature are its dramatic granite rock formations rising from the sea. On the food front, expect classic Tuscan dishes with an island twist. Publius in Poggio offers the likes of braised tuna in chianti wine with polenta or cocoa ravioli filled with cinghiale (wild boar ragu) and a parmesan sauce, while Osteria del Noce in the old hilltop village of Marciana serves grilled octopus by candlelight. Elba’s not the easiest place to get to – from the UK you’ll need to fly to Pisa, get a bus to Piombino, then a ferry over to the island – but the final destination is worth the journey. Where to stay: For one of the best views on Elba, book one of the balcony suites at Hotel Ilio. These rooms are just a few metres away from the dramatic Sant’Andrea coastline. The suite’s private terrace is a lovely spot to watch sunrise and sunset on the island. Salina Part of the Sicilian archipelago, Salina is the second-largest Aeolian island and an ideal add-on if you’re headed to Sicily (it’s a two-and-a-half-hour ferry away). Recognisable for its twin volcanic peaks, Salina, like Pantelleria, is famed for its capers, but also for its olives, figs, citrus and Sorsi di Malvasia sweet wine. These ingredients define many of the local delicacies: ‘u pani cunzatu is a slice of bread topped with caper pesto, almonds, grilled aubergines, caperberries, tomato, mint and ricotta, which is baked in the oven. Fig and almond granitas are a daily must during the hot summers. Nni Lausta is one of our favourite spots to soak up the flavours of Salina – if it’s not too hot, grab a table on the buzzy terrace. A famously verdant isle, Salina’s highlights are best taken in from a boat. As you make your way around, you’ll get to admire Fossa delle Felci, a towering old volcano, the pretty bay of Semaforo di Pollara, and Punta Lingua, a lighthouse on the southernmost tip of the island. Where to stay: Owned by the Caruso family, Hotel Signum is resplendent in limestone walls and warm Aeolian colours. With terraces looking over to neighbouring Panarea and Stromboli, the hotel is also home to a lovely spa and Signum, which holds a Michelin Green star for sustainability. Lipari Another Aeolian island that’s worth a stay in its own right is Lipari (to get there, hop on a ferry from Sicily or Naples). The largest of this cluster of islands, Lipari is a UNESCO World Heritage site and there is real history here. Chiostro de Normanni is part of the first Benedictine monastery built in Sicily, while the imposing castle of Lipari is a neolithic wonder with a great museum. For the best views – and sunsets – head to Quattrocchi (‘four eyes’), where huge cliffs plunge into the water, sea stacks rise from beneath the waves and visitors can gaze across to the other islands. Two of our favourite restaurants are Trattoria del Vicolo and Filippino. The former serves traditional Aeolian dishes such as busiate pasta with swordfish, aubergine and mint or risotto with pumpkin flowers and clams. Filippino has an atmospheric location on the main town square. Over 100 years old, it’s a heritage spot serving modern interpretations of classic rustic dishes – think cuttlefish black risotto with Volcano ricotta foam, followed by a pink white chocolate foam. Where to stay: <a href="https://www.anrdoezrs.net/click-100565798-11795693?sid=olivemagazine-272170&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.booking.com%2Fhotel%2Fit%2Fla-settima-luna.en-gb.html%3Faid%3D356980%26label%3Dgog235jc-10CAsocUIPbGEtc2V0dGltYS1sdW5hSAlYA2hQiAEBmAEzuAEHyAEP2AED6AEB-AEBiAIBqAIBuAKA4LXGBsACAdICJDM3YzFjYzAxLTdmNTktNGM2ZC05MWY1LWU5YWVlMDNkNmU5YdgCAeACAQ%26sid%3D591c30c5005e4473cb6db7551ba9daea%26all_sr_blocks%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0%26checkin%3D2025-09-28%26checkout%3D2025-09-29%26dest_id%3D-113006%26dest_type%3Dcity%26dist%3D0%26group_adults%3D2%26group_children%3D0%26hapos%3D1%26highlighted_blocks%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0%26hpos%3D1%26matching_block_id%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0%26no_rooms%3D1%26req_adults%3D2%26req_children%3D0%26room1%3DA%252CA%26sb_price_type%3Dtotal%26sr_order%3Dpopularity%26sr_pri_blocks%3D40148901_88173162_2_1_0__15400%26srepoch%3D1758294021%26srpvid%3Dfaf36980d7b20259%26type%3Dtotal%26ucfs%3D1%26" rel="sponsored" target="_blank">La Settima Luna is 50m from the beach, and makes the most of its location with a terrace and pool that offers panoramic views of the water below. Modern and minimalist, the hotel has white-washed walls inside and out, adding to the Mediterranean feel. Vulcano As its name suggests, Vulcano is one of the most volcanic islands in Italy. It’s a raw and rugged place where black-sand beaches meet deep-blue seas. Many of the attractions around Vulcano centre around this volcanic activity: some of the best ways to immerse yourself in island life are hiking to its ancient ‘Grand’ crater (worth it for the view alone) and soaking in the thermal mud baths of Laghetto dei Fanghi (you’ll soon get used to the island’s sulphurous smell). There are also lots of fun ways to get around: bikes, kayaks, quads and Mini-Mokes are all available for hire. One of the best restaurants on the island is Il Cappero (which, you guessed it, means ‘the caper’). Earlier this year, it earned Michelin and Green stars for its simple but expertly executed dishes, which tend to only feature two ingredients. More Michelin-worthy food can be found at I Tenerumi, which is similar in style to Il Cappero, but fully vegetarian. The easiest way to get to Vulcano is to take a flight to Catania or Palermo on Sicily, then transfer to Milazzo for a one-hour ferry to the island. Where to stay: Therasia Resort is perched above the sea. It’s a great example of Aeolian architecture, with columns, reed roofing and arches facing the water. All the bedrooms use natural materials – such as lava stone, terracotta, cedar and olive wood – that add a sense of earthy richness to a stay. The resort is also home to an incredible spa, with natural pools and treatments that maximise the island’s minerality. 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