Best restaurants in Hastings: where to eat and drink
The spacious, modern pier at Hastings is definitely worth a visit but, for us, the main attraction is the town’s thriving food scene – especially if you like fish. Read on for our recommended restaurants, cafes, ice cream parlours and places to stay
Looking for the best restaurants in Hastings? We've found the top places to eat in Hastings, a coastal town in East Sussex, for fish and chips, Italian gelato and plenty of artisan food and drink shops... For more food and drinks guides, check out the best restaurants in Cornwall, and best restaurants in Margate. Best places to eat and drink in Hastings coquina Venture up the stairs of the Hastings Contemporary art gallery and you’ll find coquina, a restaurant, café and wine bar with views out to sea. Sister restaurant to BAYTE in St Leonards, coqunia makes use of seasonality in a menu formulated with produce at the forefront. Use a sunny day to make use of the balcony’s sparkling coastal view, while sipping a glass of crisp Provençal rosé and sharing some of the best small plates we’ve ever had. Highlights included lightly smoked mackerel pâté on buttered sourdough, and perfectly fried ham hock croquettes topped with a slice of pickled walnut. coquinarestaurant.co.uk The Thai Café at Boulevard Books No trip to Hastings is complete without an amble down George Street. It links the Old Town to the seafront and is lined with independent coffee bars, sweet shops, vintage emporiums and quirky little restaurants including the Thai café at Boulevard Books, owned by husband-and-wife team Graham and Natthawan (aka June) Frost. During the day it’s a higgledy-piggledy secondhand bookshop, with creaking floorboards and a maze of narrow corridors. But come 6:30pm and those same corridors are crammed with tiny tables (the cosiest of which is in the ‘political books’ section), laden with Thai food cooked by June. Ingredients are imported from Thailand to create as genuine a menu as possible, and it’s great for vegetarians – you can substitute the meat for tofu in almost every dish. Plus they’ll even provide a cooler for your wine (it’s bring your own). thaicafeandbookshop.com Di Pola's Also on George Street is Hastings’ iconic ice cream parlour – Di Pola's. The Italian owners make all their gelato on site, and regularly changing flavours include passionfruit; honeycomb; apple and ginger; sea salt caramel; and, our favourite, Oreo. It’s particularly milky ice cream, distinctively whippy and smooth in texture. A. G. Hendy & Co. Step back in time with a visit to food journalist and photographer Alastair Hendy’s Georgian shop and kitchen. He spent three years restoring the High Street building to its original state, and the result is so utterly convincing – symmetrical window displays, heavy dark wooden-panelled rooms, enamel factory lights and a front desk mahogany counter that hides the electric till – as to leave visitors spellbound. The dining room and outdoor courtyard is out the back, and to get there you have to walk through an irresistible shop stocked with vintage crockery, Denby teacups, rolling pins, Kilner jars and even enamel buckets. Food is simple sharing plates with a focus on (you guessed it) fresh fish landed by the local fleet – skate wing and capers; fish, crab and shellfish pot; and juicy brown shrimps with kohlrabi and tarragon. A word of warning: you can only eat lunch at the weekend here, with last orders at 4pm. aghendy.com Penbuckles Deli A charming little deli, with smart golden signage and an old-fashioned bay window piled high with artisan cheeses, wine, Trealy farm cured meats and Monmouth coffee. It’s a great place for a picnic lunch – try one of their hickory-smoked sausage rolls, or a Bombay potato bomb. There’s also a tasting room at the back that serves deli platters and craft ales for lunch. penbuckles.co.uk The Crown Another great Hastings Old Town spot, this time set away from the crowds on All Saints Street. It’s an independent pub, contemporary in style with local art on the walls and a dog-friendly attitude. It’s less “cosy fireside pint” and more “lively dining room”, with a sophisticated menu that makes the most of produce from over 20 local suppliers. thecrownhastings.co.uk Rock-a-Nore Fisheries This is a must-visit if you’re in The Stade area. Hungry humans and seagulls alike form a queue at this place, their beady eyes on the mounds of fresh cockles at the front of the shop. It’s a family business over 30 years old that specialises in smoked fish (especially salmon, kippers, conger eels and prawns) – in fact, the family smokes nearly 300kg of fish a week. If you’ve only space for one thing, let it be the hot-smoked salmon – it was invented by accident when, one Christmas, the sawdust that keeps fish cool during smoking caught fire… the punters loved it so much that it’s now made on purpose. rockanore.co.uk Maggie’s – for fish and chips This fish and chips café, set among the net shops, permanently sports a 'fully booked' sign at the bottom of its rickety stairs, and no wonder: the vast, pearly fish in its light batter escapes from the confines of its plate; the chips – crisp and floury, always double-fried – are some of the best we’ve tried. Cod and haddock comes from the fish market directly underneath it. We exit stuffed, our coats fragranced with frying and vinegar, happy as clams. (Fishmarket, Rock A Nore Rd, 01424 430205) Two Bulls Steakhouse Over at clever Two Bulls Steakhouse gelato from Di Polas' is served as part of the unabashedly calorific dessert offering. This former pub has become very close to locals’ hearts thanks to some very fine Irish steak – mine, a 28-day dry-aged Angus point end (aka ‘butcher’s secret’) is as good a piece of meat as we’ve had outside the spendy London steak temples at a fraction of the price. twobulls.co.uk Best St Leonards-on-Sea restaurants and places to eat BAYTE, St Leonards-on-Sea Housed in an ex-showroom on the bustling King’s Road, an open kitchen welcomes you on arrival at BAYTE. The accomplished menu is highly seasonal thanks to locally sourced produce from along the coast in Lewes, with free range, organic meat from Haye Farm in Devon. Expect Italian references like hand-rolled pastas, which include pesto alla trapanese with the first tomatoes of the summer. BAYTE is the ideal setting for a special occasion meal, catching up with friends over shared plates, or popping in for a cocktail and dessert of a rainy evening – a delicate balance to strike. bayte.co.uk Farmyard, St Leonards-on-Sea There’s sustainability on the menu at this convivial restaurant, wine bar and wine shop set among the cafes, restaurants and boutique shops of Kings Road. Dishes are centred around local and seasonal produce such as Hastings hot smoked salmon with apple,celery and walnut salad with a blue cheese dressing, while the wine list features natural, biodynamic and low-intervention wines. Sister restaurant Boatyard (boatyardstleonards.com) located in the nearby indoor food and drink Heist Market specialises in locally landed seafood including barbecued gurnard served with curry sauce. farmyardwine.com The Royal, St Leonards-on-Sea With some olive-green Farrow and Ball paint, antique wall and pendant light fittings and artwork by locally based artist Deborah Bowness,The Royal has been transformed from a bog-standard boozer opposite St Leonards-on-Sea railway station into a stylish Michelin Bib Gourmand-winning gastropub. This slice of Shoreditch-by-Sea comes courtesy of James Hickson who has previously worked in top London restaurants St John, The Canton Arms and Moro. Expect a concise but eclectic menu of simple and delicious dishes such as a classic Provencal-style pistou soup or skate wing with chard, pine nuts and raisins. theroyalstleonards.co.uk Galleria, St Leonards-on-Sea Puglia-born chef Gianluca Tozzi nurtures a relationship with Hastings' fishing community to ensure he serves the best of the local catch at this simply decorated and intimate seafood bar. The concise, regularly changing menu offers excellent value. Start with a must order selection of Whitstable oysters followed by the likes of grilled Sussex squid with roasted peppers, capers and sour cream and smoked bacon-wrapped monkfish with bisque sauce. Wines, mostly from Italy, change seasonally in line with the menu. galleriabar.co.uk St Clements, St Leonards-on-Sea Tucked away on a side street close to the sea front, this smart yet unpretentious neighbourhood bistro has been serving up the best local seafood for nearly two decades. A meal here starts with complimentary, homemade soda bread, the perfect accompaniment to some grilled fresh fresh sardines simply dressed with fresh bay leaf, lemon, white wine and olive oil followed by line caught wild local sea bass fillet with fregola and shellfish bisque. stclementsrestaurant.co.uk Where to stay in Hastings BAYTE guesthouse, St Leonards-on-Sea Whole apartment from £225 a night (two nights minimum stay), check availability at Airbnb Nestled above BAYTE on King’s Street, this self-contained three-bedroom apartment is ideal for enjoying a weekend by the sea. St Leonards’ Warrior Street station is at the end of the road, and you’re a stone’s throw from coffee shops and bakeries, which make the perfect pitstop between browsing the street’s antiques shops. The serene, elegant space will have you scanning Pinterest and making plans to renovate as soon as you return home. There are 60s influences in the form of red and cream chequerboard bathroom tiles, and hints of classic French style in the antique bed frames. The combined effect is awash with charm and comfort, where you can mix a cocktail in the well-appointed kitchen and enjoy it on the terrace, while being tempted by the aromas from BAYTE restaurant below. Whole apartment from £225 a night (two nights minimum stay). Check availability at Airbnb. The Laindons Doubles from £165 per night, check availability at booking.com Hosts Sara and Jon greet guests with a tray of posh welcome snacks: homemade pitta chips, hummus, olives and a mini bottle of ice cold prosecco. But it’s more than nibbles that makes The Laindons a favourite B&B in Hastings. Location-wise, it’s ideal – right in the heart of the Old Town, with both the First In Last Out pub (which brews its own ales) and the Electric Palace arthouse cinema a stone’s throw away. The rest of the High Street is a jumble of vintage shops, delis and Georgian Grade II listed buildings, including The Laindons itself, which sits above a coffee bar, No. 23, also owned by Sara and Jon. That means good aromas filling the building every morning. Rooms are Scandi coastal in design – greys, white and blues, influenced by the time Sara and Jon spent living in Sweden – and the beds are made from recycled wood, crafted by local carpenters. We loved the original fireplace in our room and giant crossword poster in the bathroom, designed around Hastings and its attractions. Extra personal touches include earplugs for those guests bothered by seagulls; a wicker basket full of treats on the landing (just pay for what you eat); and a converted loft that acts as a bar – help yourself to a chilled glass of local sparkling wine. Breakfast is taken at the back of the house in a sort of suspended conservatory that overlooks the tufty East Hill nature park. The room is cheerily bright, being so flooded with sunlight, and perfectly matched to bedrooms: there are chunky wooden tables and squashy couches for post-breakfast lounging. Food is elegant and delicious – toasted fruit bread is topped with ricotta, nectarine slithers and almonds; muesli is homemade and packed with coconut, caramelised bananas and lime zest; vibrant jams are made locally by Martha & Ed’s Kitchen; and pear and apple juice comes from Ringden Farm, less than 20 miles away. Don’t miss the coffee – Jon roasts it downstairs and, if you’re interested, he can tell you about the origin of that day’s bean. Doubles from £165 per night, check availability at booking.com Written by Andy Lynes, Charlotte Morgan, Marina O'Loughlin and Imogen Hope A. G. Hendy & Co. images courtesy of Alastair Hendy More UK restaurant guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Manchester Best restaurants in Glasgow Best restaurants in the Lake District Best restaurants in Brighton
Best restaurants in Brighton: where locals eat and drink in this vibrant city
Discover where to eat in Brighton, from buzzy food halls to unique cocktail bars and special occasion fine dining restaurants, as chosen by a local expert
Looking for restaurants in Brighton? Want to know where to eat in the popular south coast town? Local expert Andy Lynes, a Brighton resident, shares his insider tips for the best restaurants, from the best seafood restaurants to fresh pasta, Japanese small plates, fine dining and much more. Plus, where to find the best brunches, bakeries and foodie markets. For more exciting restaurants and weekend ideas for food lovers, check out our best UK city breaks, best pubs with rooms and foodie day trips from London by train. Also discover more of the best restaurants in Cornwall, best restaurants in Bristol, best restaurants in Cambridge and best restaurants in Bournemouth. Jump to: Foodie neighbourhood spotlight: Kemptown Where to stay in Brighton Foodie day trips from Brighton Best restaurants in Brighton Maré – for modern fine dining Brazilian-Italian chef Rafael Cagali (owner of London’s two Michelin starred Da Terra) and his partner Charlie Lee have opened this ambitious high-end restaurant in Hove led by Rafael’s protégé, head chef Ewan Waller. With such credentials, expectations are high, and Ewan and his young team rise to meet them with an à la carte menu of masterfully balanced dishes, highlights of which include sharing mains of umami-rich, meltingly soft Freedown Hills wagyu picanha with chimichurri, and smoky lobster rice infused with ox tongue. Beautifully presented small plates and one-bites are exceptional, miniature crumpets with Dorset crab, lovage, radish and dill, and delicate yellowtail crudo with tomato, ajo blanco and cobnuts the standouts. Desserts are luxurious – we enjoyed the baba soaked with a hefty kick of cachaça and topped with silky chantilly cream – and the well-considered wine list is strong on small producers and English sparkling wines. Maré’s décor is warm yet refined, with an emphasis on natural shades and textures, and there’s attention to detail from the covetable tableware to the subtly sound-dampened walls taking the edge off the retro 80s soundtrack. Front of house staff are charming and happy to share their knowledge if you want any guidance. marehove.com Furna – for a special occasion Celebrate in style at this modern fine diner. The high-tech open kitchen is the focal point of the elegant dining room but for the best views of top local chef Dave Mothersill and his team in action, book one of the comfortable upholstered stools at the counter. The tasting menu of creative, detailed and delicious dishes might include veal sweetbread with native lobster, hot sauce and sauerkraut. For a more casual experience, take a seat on the terrace to enjoy à la carte small plates such as pork jowl with squid, za’atar and labneh. furnarestaurant.co.uk Bincho Yakitori – for Japanese small plates Chef Dave Miney spent three years working in Tokyo before opening Bincho Yakitori, an authentic izakaya (Japanese gastropub). You’ll find him behind the counter of this small, atmospheric and always busy restaurant tending the charcoal grill. Among the many must-order small plates are sweet and crunchy karaage (fried chicken), tender and delicious pork belly skewers and grilled aubergine with miso. The blackboard daily specials are always worth ordering. Reservations can be difficult to come by but call first thing to snap up any cancellations for the same evening. binchoyakitori.com The Set – for a memorable tasting menu Off-duty chefs and Brighton foodies know the short trip to the edge of the city centre to this bohemian cafe that at night hosts The Set restaurant will be rewarded with some truly exciting and creative cooking. Run like a very superior supper club, chefs Dan Kenny and Marcin deliver some of the 16 courses to the atmospheric bare plaster walled dining room themselves. Over the course of around three hours, expect an explosion of big, bold flavours that might see refined versions of chicken tikka masala and Thai sausage with a re-invented version of som tam salad served one after the other. thesetrestaurant.com Burnt Orange – for Mediterranean-inspired small plates Take a stool at the bar of this glamorous Lanes restaurant to watch the chefs in the open kitchen work the wood-fired oven, preparing addictively delicious Med-inspired small plates such as chilli-glazed monkfish with mint labneh and nettle chatta. Do not leave Brighton without trying the skillet-baked potatoes. Join in on Brighton’s vibrant nightlife scene with a drinks-only table available from 10pm for a signature Burnt Orange martini made with orange liqueur, while a seat on the covered terrace is much coveted when the sun shines. burnt-orange.co.uk The Flint House – for a date night dinner A table on the covered and heated roof terrace of this smart small plates restaurant in the Lanes is the ideal date night spot. Part of Ben and Pam McKellar’s lauded Gingerman Restaurants Group, this purpose-built two-storey building in Brighton’s smart Hanningtons pedestrianised food and retail neighbourhood also features a chic first floor bar and ground floor dining counter. Graze on the must-order sweetcorn fritters with chipotle aïoli while you browse the regularly changing menu that covers all the bases from clam spaghetti to Hispi cabbage with green goddess dressing. flinthousebrighton.com Alberta’s at the Windmill – for a unique Sunday roast Walk one street up from Brighton’s busy Western Road to find this cosy yet cool back street boozer where there’s local craft ale on tap, tunes on vinyl and a sun-trap pavement-side terrace. On a Sunday, acclaimed local chef Ali Munro puts a southern American spin on a British roast by deep frying whole chickens and serving them with all the Sunday roast trimmings. During the week, order the chicken schnitt sando served in a homemade Japanese sub roll and the huge, hot and crispy buttermilk fried chicken wings. thewindmillbrighton.com Terre à Terre – for world-inspired vegetarian and vegan dining Brighton stalwart Terre à Terre brings a vibrancy of colours, flavours and textures to meat-free dining. Operating for over 30 years, the newly refreshed dining space with green shades and gold accents creates a relaxed yet refined space – or enjoy the coastal air from the renovated terrace. Absolve yourself of choice with the sharing Terre à Tapas for a diverse selection of beautifully presented bites. Crunchy wasabi-crusted cashews, smoked tofu with pickled cucumber, a butter bean dip with delicate lavash crackers, and onigiri on shiitake shiso were highlights. Round off proceedings with the sharing sweet plate which includes the likes of squidgy orange polenta cake, blood orange sorbet and indulgent crème de cacao brandy alexander milkshakes. Handmade fresh raspberry truffles are not to be missed. Drinks celebrate the local offering. The Brit Pop range of organic and biodynamic wines from Sussex estates features the crisp and dry Bolney pinot gris, which makes a great counterpart to the main course. Botanical-inspired cocktails include a zesty blood orange, lime and hibiscus cosmopolitan or skip the booze entirely and be ‘Spirited Away’ with no- and low-alcohol options – we found the Pentire coastal spritz with yuzu, orange bitters and Fever Tree grapefruit soda to be beautifully refreshing. terreaterre.co.uk No No Please – for cocktails This stylish yet friendly lounge, bar and restaurant, decked out in a carefully curated mid-century style, is the debut venture of brother and sister team Euan MacDonald and Mel Culross. The bang-up-to-date cocktail list features original creations such as the refreshing Supagrass made with tequila, vermouth, lemongrass and salted coconut, all served from the tap or barrel so there’s no waiting around for your drink. Highlights of the eclectic food menu include sesame prawn toast finger with salted egg yolk and a classic Ivy-style bang bang chicken. no-no-please.co.uk Lost in the Lanes – for brunch This contemporary, spacious and elegant café restaurant in the Lanes serves a concise seasonal menu highlighting local producers. The daily bottomless brunch includes unlimited mimosas, bellinis or sparkling wine and a wide range of dishes that might include smoked salmon on courgette rösti with soured cream. Ex-Lyles chef Sofie Tavener shows off her culinary talent in the recently launched evening menu that might include ’nduja clams with chickpeas and tomato, and whole roast plaice with lime and chilli butter. lostinthelanes.com Loam – for coffee lovers Keep your eyes open for a peach painted frontage on a side street as you wander Brighton’s characterful North Laine neighbourhood or you might miss the best coffee and home-baked cinnamon buns in the city. Run by partners Francesco and Dela, this intimate Scandi-chic café offers an ever changing line-up of coffees from top national and international roasters served in beautiful artisan-made ceramic cups (coffee beans and ceramics are also available to buy). In the summer, don’t miss the signature cold brew coffee sangria and cereal-infused iced latte. @loam.brighton Unbarred – for craft beer Drink among the tuns at this hip brewery taproom where it brews and serves up to 18 different keg and cask beers. Hidden away behind the bars, restaurants and shops of London Road, Unbarred is a destination for in-the-know beer lovers who come for wildly inventive creations such as Granola pale ale made with peach, apricots and honey. The large enclosed outdoor terrace is the ideal spot to enjoy authentic Neapolitan-style pizza from the hugely popular Fatto a Mano restaurant group. unbarredbrewery.com Artist Residence – for a buzzy hotel restaurant One of Brighton’s favourite quirky hotels now boasts its own exceptional small plates restaurant with a cool, relaxed vibe. With its beach shack interior of corrugated iron walls, distressed wooden floorboards and exposed brickwork, Artist Residence hotel’s restaurant has a mellow vibe, the atmosphere livened by the buzzy sea-view bar in the adjacent room. Service is warm and enthusiastic, the staff clearly invested in the quality of the food they’re serving from the open kitchen, and rightly so. The seasonal menu is mostly small plates – divided into ‘crispy’, ‘raw’ and ‘grilled’ plus a couple of bigger sharing plates. Dishes were consistently excellent, but standouts included the butter-soft scallop ceviche with a perfectly judged chilli kick; a summery salad of broad beans, asparagus and peas drenched in a beautifully uplifting yuzu, honey and mustard dressing; and whole grilled meaty sea bream, the perfectly charred, crispy skin contrasting with an accompanying tart green mango and papaya salad. Save room for the elongated fluffy sugar doughnut, loaded to bursting with crème diplomat and salted miso caramel, and sprinkled with crumbs of dried raspberries. Cocktails from the adjacent bar are excellent – we enjoyed the floral, fragrant limoncello and basil spritz, and the tart, frothy cherry bakewell sour. artistresidence.co.uk Permit Room – for laid-back Indian food Nestled in Brighton’s Lanes, Dishoom’s bar concept is an ode to Bombay’s permit rooms, where drinkers could legally buy liquor during the 1970s. The large space is kitted out in the style of this era, with wood-panelled walls and cabinets, pops of orange and blue, incense infusing the air and vinyl stacked behind the bar ready for the DJ to spin. Highlights on the food menu include crispy spinach chaat topped with yogurt, chutney and pomegranate, vibrant turmeric-laced coconut prawn curry and tandoori-grilled chicken slathered in creamy spiced yoghurt sauce served with fresh, zingy kachumber salad, tangy green chutney and charred lime. To drink, the fragrant and citrussy Mangosteen Daiquiri is sprayed with lime essence, while a smooth, punchy Thums Up Sazerac is sweetened with a splash of the popular Indian cola. The Blushing Dawn Paloma – chilli-infused tequila, kumquat juice and a hint of mezcal – is clarified and carbonated to create a refreshing, smoky concoction. And you can always pop in for Dishoom’s signature bacon naan and bottomless chai breakfast. permitroom.co.uk Embers – for wood-fired cooking Tucked away deep within the Lanes, this joint venture from two well established Brighton chefs, Isaac Bartlett-Copeland (Isaac At) and Dave Marrow (Terre à Terre), sees the pair cook dishes on a Medieval-style fire cage over kiln-dried ash and birch wood in a buzzy and informal space. A gentle smokiness fills the air, and diners have the option to eat at the kitchen counter overlooking all the open-fire theatrics. The seasonal menu is primarily made up of smaller sharing plates plus larger centrepiece dishes (with the likes of aged pork tomahawk). Standouts include mackerel with cubes of sharp Bramley apple, earthy beetroot sauerkraut and thick dollops of labneh; beautifully charred, tender chicken leg with smoky ’nduja-infused aioli; and flaky, scorched sea bream matched with sweet smacked cucumber and nutty, chewy grains. The cocktails are good, too – try the smooth, refreshing lychee martini – and save space for a creamy retro banana split with toffee sauce and fragrant rosemary and parsnip ice cream. embersbrighton.co.uk Wild Flor – for a neighbourhood bistro Wild Flor is an intimate, smart, welcoming neighbourhood bistro in Hove that matches affordable, high-quality wines with classic British and French food. The à la carte menu offers a choice of snacks, and a concise selection of starters, mains and desserts (plus cheeses), focussing on comfort classics and seasonal ingredients. The service is jovial, relaxed and familiar, and you’re given a sense that those front of house have a passion for what their restaurant is trying to do – especially when it comes wine-pairing suggestions to match your personal tastes. wildflor.com Shelter Hall – for a buzzy food hall Situated on the Brighton seafront, Shelter Hall is a food hall set within a 15,000 sq ft Victorian building that has been lovingly restored to its former glory. The concept is led by Sessions Market – a hospitality incubator and accelerator programme founded by Dan Warne, ex-managing director of Deliveroo, that aims to find, curate and scale up new, local food concepts. Shelter Hall is currently home to seven local independent traders spaced over its two floors, all of which offer different cuisines and exciting food ideas. In addition, five of the vendors have short brunch menus at the weekend. Dishes start at around £6, and drinks can be ordered from the Shelter Hall bar, with wine and beer starting at £5.50 for a glass/pint and a full cocktail menu starting at £7.50 per drink. shelterhall.co.uk Fatto a Mano – for pizza Fatto a Mano brings an authentic taste of Naples to its restaurants (two in Brighton, one in Hove, plus branches in London now too) with its soft, pillowy wood-fired pizzas. The chefs collaborate with producers in Sussex, and there are regular staff tours of Italy, which inspire ideas such as the pizza topped with tomato, spicy minced pork, spianata, roasted peppers, mozzarella, basil and parmesan; and the tomato-less ‘white’ pizza with fennel sausage, Neapolitan broccoli, chilli, provola, mozzarella and parmesan. fattomanopizza.com Kindling – for sustainable modern British This modern British outfit (run by the canny former owners of popular Brighton vegetarian restaurant Food for Friends) has an ethos of ‘being kind’ to the planet, and there’s a strong emphasis on high-welfare meats, sustainable fish, local fruit and veg, and preserving and pickling to extend the seasons. The interiors are warm – rattan chairs, cascading plants and a pretty-in-pink marble bar – and the chefs make the most of an open fire while creating zero-waste, maximum-flavour dishes. The restaurant has bigger environmental ambitions, too, with plans to use 100% green energy in the future. kindlingrestaurant.com Etch – for seasonal tasting menus Cool and unpretentious, Etch is a casual and intimate space offering fine dining, with two weekly changing tasting menus. The interior features dark blue walls, bold orange leather seats, trendy neon lighting and clothless tables, while staff look the part, dressed in tweed waistcoats, ankle swingers and pin rolls, and brogues. Chef Steven Edwards works with local producers from the surrounding Sussex countryside to pick the freshest seasonal ingredients for their intricate dishes – expect the likes of Sussex Trenchmore beef with charred Hispi cabbage, locally caught scallops with squid crackers, and cherries filled with crème fraîche. etchfood.co.uk The Salt Room – for best seafood restaurant in Brighton A modern British restaurant on Brighton’s seafront focussed on Josper-grilled fish and meat, and local, sustainable produce. The restaurant has a contemporary, refined look, with a mixture of whitewashed, bare-brick and wood-slatted walls, bistro-style tables, curvy dark-wood Scandi-esque seats and banquettes – in summer, the terrace looking out across the sea is the place to be. The fish main courses are the outstanding reason to come to The Salt Room, including the likes of lemon sole on the bone, with purple-sprouting broccoli, wild garlic, miniature capers and red grapes; and tandoori monkfish with roasted cauliflower. saltroom-restaurant.co.uk Cin Cin – for Italian small plates Sit at the counter to watch staff carve smoked speck, Tuscan finocchiona speckled with fragrant fennel seeds, and slice prosecco-smoked pecorino cheese. Seasonal small plates rotate, or choose from the bar’s pasta dishes, including black squid-ink pappardelle with little pops of capers, and sturdy gnocchi with Tuscan sausage, crunchy courgette cubes and a light tomato sauce. Italian cocktails are top notch – start with a sbagliato aperitivo, a sparkling prosecco-based negroni drink, and finish with a refreshing sgroppino (lemon sorbet, vodka and prosecco for the perfect cocktail/dessert combo) to set you up for a night on the town. cincin.co.uk Semola – for fresh pasta At Semola – a small, colourful 22-seat restaurant with a big reputation – freshness is a guiding principle. Every day co-owner Roberto Lonati makes various pastas, including specials such as orecchiette or Ligurian trofie. For Semola’s pastasciutta dishes (pastas with sauce), chef Luca Cuminetti dresses those pastas with sauces that are almost all cooked to order. Only two sauces, including Luca’s bolognese, demand a different approach of patient slow-cooking over several hours. As well as asciutta and baked pasta dishes, such as a regularly changing vegetarian lasagne (say, chestnut, mushroom and mozzarella), Semola also serves pizza, risottos and Italian mains, similarly full of vivid flavours. semola.co.uk Tutto – for standout Italian Tutto is an Italian restaurant set in a former banking hall on the outskirts of the North Laine. The high-ceilinged interior, with its grand arched windows overlooking a small alfresco seating area out front, has stylish art deco touches and colourful, graphic art adorning the walls. The menu follows the classic Italian format of cicchetti, antipasti, primi and secondi, and there’s also a set menu if you’d prefer to delegate your choices. Opening options include buttery bone marrow with parmesan and gremolata on crisp toasts, and long-stemmed broccoli fritto with ‘nduja aïoli. The standout dish is the tagliatelle cacio e pepe with black truffle, the pasta cooked perilously close but just the right side of al dente, and the irresistibly silky sauce suffused with a perfectly judged hit of pepper. The roasted sea bass in an autumnal wild mushroom, shallot and confit garlic sauce was also excellent, the fish beautifully succulent, complemented nicely with a side of chilli-spiked brassicas. The drinks menu is almost exclusively Italian, featuring red and white wines grouped by region, the common characteristics of each area helpfully explained. The cocktails remain faithful to the country, too, with four varieties of negroni on offer, and a stunning slushie-like sgroppino our favourite on the night. tutto-restaurant.co.uk Moksha – for modern brunch It’s a little off the beaten track but Moksha is a big favourite with local Brightonians and well worth a diversion if your looking for brilliantly cooked, well-priced food in a smart, spacious, buzzy café. The coffee’s top-notch, and with award-winning brunches including huevos rancheros, shakshuka and the Moksha Breakfast (free-range Sussex cumberland sausage, bacon, eggs, grilled flat mushroom and beef tomato, homemade baked beans, toasted sourdough and optional black pudding), a diversionary stop-off at Moksha is a guaranteed win. mokshacaffe.co.uk Open Market – for an independent food market A five-minute walk via the back of Brighton train station is The Open Market, home to some great little independents. Sit in snug Greek café Kouzina for hearty home-cooked classics such as moussaka and spanakopita; grab a falafel and some hummus from Smorl’s to take to the beach; order a delicious steaming bowl of bibimbap from Korean-Japanese eatery Kor-pan; bag some absolutely top-notch mini sausage rolls from McStrongs; or indulge in authentic Mexican tacos at welcoming family-run Casa Azul. brightonopenmarket.co.uk The Chilli Pickle – for Indian This Brighton institution is a spacious, modern, knowingly kitsch Indian restaurant offering imaginative spins on classic regional dishes. Choose from the likes of keemar methi (Sussex lamb mince cooked Punjabi style with mint, coriander, chilli, garam masala and roasted cumin served with masala chapatis, hung yogurt and green chilli mint pickle); and mussel rasam and toasted poa (Cornish mussels in a Tamil pepper, beets and tomato broth, curry leaf, ginger and toasted cumin brioche). thechillipickle.com Flour Pot Bakery – for inventive bakes Brighton and Hove’s mini baking empire Flour Pot Bakery (there are seven outposts dotted around the city) specialises in artisan breads, inventive bakes and fresh pastries. Try a slice of Brighton Blackout Cake (a full-on three-layered chocolate sponge cake) at the original Sydney Street branch, or head to the Hove outpost to stock up on breads - the likes of challah, sunflower rye and seeded sourdough - to take to the beach for a picnic. theflourpot.co.uk Foodie day trips from Brighton Ridgeview, Ditchling Common – for a vineyard visit Brighton is a great base from which to explore the growing number of vineyards in Sussex wine country. Ridgeview is the perfect place to start, easily accessible by car or a short train and cab ride away. Take a guided tour of the winery that’s set in stunning South Downs countryside followed by a tutored tasting of the award-winning and sustainably produced sparkling wines. Lunch in one of the al fresco covered pavilions of The Rows & Vine restaurant that overlooks the chardonnay vines and Sussex countryside beyond is a real treat. Jerk lamb kebabs and oozy mac ‘n’ cheese bites with chilli jam are a surprisingly great match to a glass of Ridgeview’s Fitzrovia rosé. ridgeview.co.uk The Star, Alfriston Hotelier Alex Polizzi leads regular ‘ramblers retreats’ from The Star, the beautifully appointed hotel she owns with her mother Olga in the postcard perfect Sussex village of Alfriston. A typical three-day itinerary includes walks to Birling Gap and Beachy Head, a tour of nearby Rathfinny Vineyard and lunch at rural foodie pub The Ram Inn in Firle. The hotel, parts of which date back to the 15th century, is worth visiting just for its blend of carefully observed luxurious metropolitan style and cosseting homely comfort. Book the Olga suite, then enjoy a drink in the Italianate courtyard garden before a rustic, comforting dinner in the sleek, oak-beamed dining room that might include homemade spinach and ricotta tortellini with sage and butter sauce. thepolizzicollection.com The Pass at South Lodge Hotel – for Michelin-starred dining The stage is set for Michelin-starred dining as theatre at this grand and elegant country house hotel. Enjoy a drink on the terrace overlooking the grounds and beautiful Sussex countryside beyond before taking your seat in the intimate restaurant. The kitchen is on view to every seat in the house through floor-to-ceiling glass screens where you can watch chef Ben Wilkinson and his team meticulously craft a seven-course tasting menu based on local produce. Ben serves and explains some of the courses himself, which might include an intense, rich celeriac ‘royale’ custard studded with braised beef cheek and served with a tartlet of beef fillet tartare. Stay over in one of the grand and spacious suites with views over the grounds. exclusive.co.uk Foodie neighbourhood spotlight: Kemptown Brighton’s vibrant Kemptown neighbourhood runs east from the Palace Pier to the Marina. There you’ll find a potent mix of bohemia, sleaze and comfortable refinement, and some of the best food and drink in the city. A few steps from Old Steine Gardens, Redroaster/Lucky Khao serves excellent coffee from its own roastery by day and a menu of northern Thai small plates including pork larb to a banging soundtrack at night. A few minutes’ walk away, chef Tom Stephens (ex Simon Rogan and Tom Kerridge) serves exquisite hyper-local and seasonal tasting menus at Dilsk, an intimate and stylish dining room in Drakes Hotel. Beautifully presented dishes might include Orkney scallop with Cornish Mids potatoes and dilsk butter sauce. The set lunch and dinner menus offer exceptional value. Head further into Kemptown, past characterful local boozers like the Hand in Hand and boutique shops including Butlers Wine Cellar for a glass of natural wine in the secluded garden of the smart Daddy Longlegs gastro pub. Inside there’s floral banquette seating, white painted wall panelling and an enticing menu of small plates such as tempura cauliflower with gochujang – the Sunday roasts are legendary. Finish your night back near to where you started at The Plotting Parlour cocktail bar with its baroque red velvet, candle-lit interior and copper-clad bar. The inventive cocktails include Tumi made with mezcal, pisco, orgeat and chocolate ganache. Stay in the neighbourhood Take in the views of Brighton’s historic Palace Pier from the comfort of your freestanding bath at Drakes, a converted townhouse seafront boutique hotel. The best rooms offer sea views through bay windows, high ceilings and bags of space. Doubles from £155, room only. Check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk Where to stay in Brighton The Ginger Pig Not just an award-winning gastropub, The Ginger Pig also offers some of the most stylish accommodation in the city just yards from Hove’s seafront. Choose from 11 modern boutique hotel style rooms, some with freestanding baths, or book one of three spacious self-catering mews houses in the pub’s converted stable block. Doubles from £155, room only; mews cottage from £300, accommodation only. Check availability at booking.com or expedia.co.uk No 124 by GuestHouse Opening in October 2024, this characterful and luxurious boutique hotel occupies four Regency-style townhouses overlooking Brighton’s seafront. The interior design echoes the Indian, Moorish and Chinese influences seen in Brighton’s world-famous Royal Pavilion and is decorated with the work of Brighton artists and artisans. The hotel features Pearly Cow restaurant, terrace bar and Field Trip spa. For an indulgent stay, book the signature ground floor suite with its own private entrance, lounge, kitchenette and copper bath. Doubles from £295, including breakfast. Check availability at booking.com Artist Residence Stay at this quirky boutique hotel overlooking the iconic West Pier: each room has its own unique style, plus there's a cocktail bar serving up bespoke drinks. Rooms at Artist Residence (where you can tuck into a locally sourced full English at the funky breakfast bar, or enjoy a brew in bed, with sea views) feature bespoke artwork and are decked out with Robert’s radios, mini Smeg fridges and Tunnock’s caramel bars for nostalgic snacking. Doubles from £161, check availability at booking.com, mrandmrssmith.co.uk or expedia.co.uk More UK restaurant guides Best restaurants in Deal Best restaurants in Birmingham Best restaurants in St Albans Best restaurants in Bristol Best restaurants in Edinburgh Best restaurants in York Best restaurants in Whitstable Best restaurants in Oxford Best restaurants in Cambridge Best restaurants in Margate Best restaurants in Manchester Best restaurants in Glasgow Best restaurants in the Lake District