Stevie Parle’s latest venture (he already has Dock Kitchen and Rotorino under his belt) is Craft London next door to the O2 on the Greenwich Peninsula. Set over three floors in a building that is part of the Greenwich Peninsula development, there’s a restaurant, café and shop plus a bar on the top floor that opens out onto a balcony that runs round the top of the building, and it all looks gorgeous and colourful, this is no temple to beige and the influence of business partner Tom Dixon is evident everywhere.
The menu sources as much as possible from the UK, and quite a bit from few hundred yards away where a veg garden, orchard and smoke house are part of a park designed by Tom Dixon’s Design Research Studio, Thomas Hoblyn and Alys Fowler. Coffee is roasted on site, bees are nurtured near by, meat is cured and vegetable fermented in the kitchen, it’s all a far cry from the rest of the offerings at the O2, though hopefully a portent of what is to come for this area.
This isn’t fussy food, clever yes, and every dish has the heightened flavour of well-sourced ingredients; beef with marrowbone bread sauce and lovage liquor is beefy in the extreme; einkorn (a type of wheat) scones comes with a creamy, rich duck liver pate and sweet preserved damsons from last summer, and a spelt rice pudding sounds worthy but was really isn’t, we could have eaten it forever. To drink there is London mead by Gosnells (it’s a thing apparently), a cocktail list from Adam Wyatt-Jones (ex Milk and Honey) and wine chosen by Ruth Spivey (Arbutus/Wild Honey and more recently Street Vin and Wine Car Boot). Craft is a reason to take the Jubilee line to North Greenwich, or better still arrive by Thames Clipper or by air on the cable car!
Misfire: The stairs are a little too well hidden if you don’t want to wait for a lift when it’s busy – go through the door to the loos.
Bullseye: Hurrah, lovely food in North Greenwich.
Interior images Peer Lindgreen
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