Cadogan’s by Adam Handling, London SW1: Afternoon Tea Review

Cadogan’s by Adam Handling, London SW1, Lobby

What are the afternoon tea options?

Traditional champagne afternoon tea (£70 pp) comes with a choice of Newby teas served in elegant bone china tea cups and teapots with tea cosies hand-knitted by Adam’s mum. Choose from a selection of white teas, green teas, oolong and black teas. We opt for an aromatic green tea, ‘Gunpowder’, which is smoky yet fragrant, and ‘lapsang souchong’ – dark and smoky with a light, sweet aftertaste. Add a glass of Adam Handling’s own label sparkling wine from West Sussex; crisp and refreshing, for an extra £14. Or go all out with a glass of Krug Grande Cuvee, Edition 164, Champagne NV at £45, served in bespoke delicate glasses.

What’s the savoury round like?

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The savoury round is served on a bespoke handmade gold tree stand with slate style black plates either side. We start with rich, salty sausage rolls wrapped in glossy golden pastry with brown sauce; salt cod croquettes were potatoey with a subtle taste of dill which resembling a posh fish finger; and a light, dainty choux bun filled with silky smooth cheese and hints of truffle. Next up is go onto the sandwich round: roasted chicken on nutty soft bread was fresh with hints of lemongrass, and had a lovely crunchy texture; cucumber on walnut bread with plenty of smooth cream cheese; thick slices of salmon with light hints of lemon; classic ham and sweet chutney on onion bread; and subtly curried egg mayo.

Cadogan’s by Adam Handling, London SW1, Savoury Selection

What are the scones like?

9/10. Scones came in both plain and raisin varieties and were light and fluffy with golden crunchy tops. Homemade raspberry jam was a simple but well-executed accompaniment to pair with Cornish clotted cream.

And the sweet pastries and desserts?

An impressive Granny Smith apple-shaped white chocolate sphere was filled with smooth lemongrass crémeux and chunks of apple was the highlight. Others that impressed were a rich and inventive chocolate salted caramel sacher torte surrounded by a biscuit crumb; an delicate passion fruit tart sat on a thin crisp biscuit finished with zingy passion fruit and vanilla bean curd piped on top. We finished with a few miniatures of classic British cakes: almondy battenberg, lemon drizzle loaf, and dundee cake packed with plenty of fruit and cherries.