We review Trawler Trash London, check out our expert review below…
In a nutshell
The concept behind this new North London opening is blindingly simple; champion the lesser known and rarely used species of fish and seafood – think kippers, coley, crayfish and sprats – alongside a daily changing menu of sustainable seasonal fish.
Trawler Trash London review
Don’t be put off by the thought of ‘trash’. Clever cooking elevates humble ingredients here to something really special. A starter of tender grilled asparagus was served with a generous dollop of piquant but creamy tartare sauce and a sprinkle of crispy fish skin salt. The other starter of the most tender air-dried charred octopus with green tomatoes, chilli and olive oil packed in so much flavour we kept going back to try and work out the magic ingredient (we decided it was just really top-notch produce).
We were a bit cynical that coley would work as well as cod or haddock in the fish and chips but it arrived as 2 large chunks in a proper golden chip shop batter, which gave way into lovely pearly white flakes of fish. Pan fried hake was served with a silky cauli puree and a punchy puy lentil vinaigrette.
Despite the exposed brick walls the space is warm and cosy with cute nautical touches like porthole lights and the sound of piped waves and seagulls in the loos.
Trawler Trash price range
Service is friendly and informative. With house wine starting at a bargain £22 this feels like it could become a neighbourhood favourite.