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Melt Room, Soho: grilled cheese cafe review

Our review of Melt Room, a cheese-lover's paradise in London's Soho. Try a pulled pork, pommery mustard, real ale and apple chutney and sharp cheddar sandwich - and don't forget to order Melt Room relish, or Friend of Cheese sauce on the side.

It’s time to wake up and smell the cheese, as they might say in the US. Melt Room has brought the ‘grilled’ (read ‘fried in butter’) cheese-stuffed sandwich to London’s Soho. Bustling Noel Street provides the perfect fast-paced setting for this grab-and-go cheese-fiend’s paradise, with a suitably cheesy-dairy feel to the décor – white and yellow tiles, yellow-aproned staff, and 10 chairs with buttery-yellow leather for those with multiple sandwiches to tackle. There are even cheesy portraits – Scotty from Star Trek, Michael Bolton in full mullet and Jane Fonda lolling energetically in gym garb, her lycra-d legs aiming heavenward, and a soundtrack of 80’s cheese.

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There’s a lot to like about their actual cheese, farmhouse and artisan as it is, ensconced in pillowy sourdough, fried to a golden-brown sheen on the outside. The Classic (£4.50) is a secret mixture of cheeses (with good reason – anyone with tastebuds would want the recipe) – try getting one of their sauces (50p) to dip it in – Melt Room relish is a perfect, fruity, vinegary chutney, and Friend of Cheese sauce is a lot like ramped-up HP (warning: getting both may cause a condimental breakdown, leaving you manipulating your sarnie as if it were a canoe paddle).

That sandwich alone would be enough to bring you waddling back for more, but here be cheese for all hours – breakfast, for instance, may involve the full works melt – scrambled eggs, Old Spot patty, Keen’s cheddar, smoked bacon and HP relish on sourdough for £6.50, or a benedict melt – york ham, scrambled egg, vintage cheddar and hollandaise sauce (£6). There are soups and salads for people who’ve become too confused by the variety of sandwiches – vine tomato soup with gruyere croutons, for instance (£3), or chopped salad (£5.50), of Norfolk turkey, avocado, roast carrots, baby Gem, egg and blue cheese.

But for the confident, there are sandwiches aplenty: the slow & low lamb shoulder (£7), is of Romaine lettuce, pommery mustard and melted swiss cheese. Dessert? You heard it here first, the Nutella and mascarpone melt on milk bread, pictured above (£3.50).

BULLSEYE: Pulled pork, pommery mustard, real ale and apple chutney and sharp cheddar (£7).

By Gregor Shepherd


26 Noel Street, Soho, London W1F 8GY

www.meltroom.com

Opening hours: 7am–9:30pm (Monday-Friday), 10am-9:30pm (Weekend)

Twitter / Instagram: @melt_room

All images by Charlie McKay


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