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Best restaurants for sustainability: The Trustcott Arms, London

This is a pub doing everything right. They pay attention to where they're sourcing ingredients from, seasonality and treating their staff well and it pays off. It's a must-visit.

Amid the cut ‘n’ thrust of London’s restaurant scene, sustainability is often low on the agenda. At the Truscott Arms, however, a smartly renovated Victorian corner pub, owners Andrew and Mary-Jane Fishwick are determined to take a stand. It is a matter of principle and enlightened self-interest. ‘It’s our own business and we want to do things properly, because we can,’ says Andrew. ‘But we also want to create something excellent, and sourcing ingredients properly, seasonality, knowing your supply chain, is how you achieve that.’

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In one significant break with the norm – ‘The hospitality industry is notorious for low-pay’ – all staff are paid at least the London Living Wage. Andrews reasoning is simple: ‘The guy behind the bar or your waiter are the people you associate with the Truscott Arms, so it’s vital that they feel valued.’

Whether in its 16 draught London beers (pint from £4.80) or its meats from ace butcher Aubrey Allen, the Trustcott is blending an emphasis on food miles with a focus on quality and provenance. Meanwhile, head chef, Aiden McGee (ex-Dinner, ex-Launceston Place), is using his Michelin know-how to minimise waste by cleverly deploying ingredients across the bar menu and his ambitious restaurant dishes. For instance, the restaurant might serve pan-fried turbot with smoked clams, salsify, pink onions, sea beets and a cider sauce, but trim from the turbot is used in the fishcakes, which are wolfed down in the bar (£7). ‘It’s perfectly good fish,’ says Andrew, ‘which would otherwise go in the bin.’ Restaurant dinner menu from £32; thetruscottarms.com

The Trustcott Arms scores top marks from Food Made Good (foodmadegood.org). 


How to be green in the kitchen 

‘Plan your dishes for each week and try to use the off-cuts and leftovers that are otherwise thrown away.’


By Tony Naylor

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